|
I've found courier bags aren't a problem. I commute with one daily and take it on longer solo rides, as well. No shifting or distractions and it provides a great place to stash your camera, clear visor and another layer of clothes.
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2008 18:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 09:59 |
|
|
KidDynamite posted:Anyone have a good site to order Pirelli's from? Since tire express doesn't carry them. Bike Bandit, Ron Ayers, SW Mototire should all carry them.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2008 05:20
|
|
|
greg_graffin posted:My MSF course experience ingrained some bad habits in me. I think I get it but I'm going to have to try it out tomorrow to be sure. The BRC bikes we were riding were: 1) lighter than my bike and, 2) probably had the idle speed set higher to aid in warmup and help beginners from stalling. Whenever I tried to use the throttle in the slow speed cone exercises or quick turns the fucker would take off, so I got used to just using the combination of friction zone/rear brake the control the bike. It looks like second gear, throttle, rear brake, friction zone and practice is the only way I'm going to get comfortable with this on what I'm riding now. Thanks for setting me straight. If you weren't using the clutch in the low speed drills you weren't performing the exercise correctly, which your instructors should have caught. Friction zone with some throttle is the right technique. The rear brake helps, too.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 15:49
|
|
|
Orange Someone posted:The idea I got from his post is that he was using the clutch (that's what the bit about the friction zone was all about), but only the clutch and the brake, with absolutely no throttle at all. The bikes we used on our CBT and DAS would stall if you tried to pull away with no throttle. This quote is the one I was responding to: greg_graffin posted:Whenever I tried to use the throttle in the slow speed cone exercises or quick turns the fucker would take off, so I got used to just using the combination of friction zone/rear brake the control the bike.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 16:51
|
|
|
greg_graffin posted:That's what I meant. Why does it always have to rain when I really, really want to ride? Ah, gotcha. It does sound like the idle was awfully high on those bikes if you could do that. As for the rain, it's simply nature's way of making sure there's not many other motorcyclists in your way.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 17:25
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:I warm my bikes up on the move. That's the best way of doing it anyway. :-) If it's stalling out, slip the clutch a little more. by your second or third stopsign the bike will be warmed up. It's hard to outrun loose dogs when your cold carbed bike sputters instead of taking off.  Thankfully with 139 dB of Stebel airhorn, you don't have to. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 30, 2008 18:30
|
|
|
Phat_Albert posted:Those would be classified as British standards, basically. Holy poo poo why have I never heard of these before? Time to peruse craigslist.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2008 19:00
|
|
|
You can also be really quick about using a turkey baster filled with fuel to keep the fuel line filled. Really quick.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 18, 2008 17:08
|
|
|
Mechanism Eight posted:What's the word on carrying additional fuel for longer trips? MSR or Primus camp stove fuel bottles work fine for this. A couple of the one liter containers will get you to the next gas station or at least a hell of a lot closer.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2008 05:55
|
|
|
MrKatharsis posted:It did a pretty good job of making you aware of his presence, didn't it? This is why I don't run a muffler on any of my bikes.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2009 19:52
|
|
|
Headlight modulators are 50 state legal due to a federal law. They don't flash by definition, they modulate. They also don't improve safety. Highbeam use during the day for motorcycles varies from state to state. Don't give Officer Friendly another reason to have a chat with you. Also keep in mind today's headlights are waaaay better than the ones of the 70s, so a current headlight's dipped/low beam is probably brighter than the highbeam of almost 40 years ago. You want multiple study, international, proven conspicuity enhancers? Wear a high-vis jacket or vest and have running lights. (edit) Also, I read somewhere a possible reason why the Hurt report has highbeam users under-represented in accidents is because the riders who choose to ride with their headlight on, then also choose to ride with the highbeam on, make safer choices in general than the weekend warrior and bar hopping crowd. Hough, as usual, has a bunch written about this subject. quote:Some riders believe in running with the headlight on high beam in the daytime, the concept being that brighter must be more conspicuous. That may not be as effective as some would like to believe. Yes, the visual priorities are larger, brighter, more contrasting, or fast approaching. But let’s note that more than a few drivers have pulled out in front of railroad locomotives equipped with very bright flashing lights. http://www.soundrider.com/current/dec08/getting_noticed_in_traffic_2.htm http://www.soundrider.com/current/nov08/getting_noticed_1.htm Skier fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Jan 8, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2009 21:39
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Re: http://motoblag.com/blag/?p=548 Which was posted earlier. Both SAE papers 856129 and 900749 show brightly colored jackets/vest improve visibility on par with or better than anything else, without regard to price. The Olson report also assumed replacement of the bright jacket/vest annually, so it makes the cost higher than it is with today's technology. Look at page 74 of the Olson report. Orange vest/cap, green vest/cap and orange vest all score better than the control motorcycle. Page 79 shows wearable conspicuity improvers outperforming modulating headlights. Page 83: Summary, Daytime Treatments posted:These data suggest that the daytime conspicuity of motorcycles can be improved in several ways having a meaningful effect on the drivers of automobiles. Riding with the headlamp on seems very effective, although causing the headlamp to modulate from low to high intensity seems to improve response even more. The wearing of fluorescent materials also seems effective. All of these recommendations come before the cost-benefit analysis section and do not take cost effectiveness into account. Later in the study they mention modulator effectiveness may be due to the novelty factor. When drivers see modulators more often they will tune them out. Also, if more than one flashing light is within sight at a time, the benefit vanishes. The downsides of wearing a brightly colored jacket are considerably less than using your highbeams or a headlight modulator. Skier fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jan 8, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2009 23:07
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Yes, that's true. But it's also a useless fact: If .5% of people will always pull out in front of everyone/everything, it doesn't mean that something reduces the chance of the other 99.5% of people pulling out in front of a motorcyclist ineffective. The entire point of a headlight modulating at three to four Hertz is to forcefully acquire the eye's focus. Just because the eye is looking at the headlight doesn't mean the brain recognizes the motorcycle's size, speed or distance from the eye. Z3n posted:If you move in groups, all running modulators...yes, I can see that the advantage of a flashing light being absent because 2 motorcyclists are less likely to be pulled out of in front. He's (cleverly) twisting the data to fit his conclusion. He's also accepting that the study found that the headlight modulators are more effective, and then assuming that if more people run them that it will make them less effective, which is a logical jump that the study, again, doesn't support. Olson report, page 75 posted:However, it is interesting to note the continued effect of the modulated headlamp even at gaps as large as five seconds. This may represent a novelty effect. If so, it would be expected to diminish were the treatment commonly employed. I am missing how interpreting diminishing effects as making them less effective is a wrong conclusion. Z3n posted:So if motorcycles are equal to a car with the lowbeam on, and improved with a modulator on, then modulators still improve safety. Accepting that your bike is "just as visible as a car" and using that as a reason to not improve safety is retarded. "Well, I don't need to practice swerving or emergency braking because I'm just as visible as a car." Sure, if a small number of motorcyclists run modulators they can improve safety. But now you're leaping to conclusions with bringing up not having to practice. Z3n posted:First of all, not everyone is going to buy one for a variety of reasons. Second of all...there's no proof that it would happen. Taking "may happen" to "will happen" is a huge leap. He assumes that because they mention it's possible that it's a novelty effect, it is...which it didn't say it is in the slightest. Furthermore, diminishing doesn't mean "ineffective" like he once more assumes. If the government mandates motorcycle headlight modulators, then yes everyone will buy one, factory provided or not. While there's no proof of the novelty effect, there's not enough evidence supporting the use of modulators over other proven methods, such as running lamps or fluorescent jackets. I accept translating "may happen" to "will happen" is a leap, but why bother tackling it at all if brightly colored jackets work just as well or better?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 8, 2009 23:17
|
|
|
There's two separate diminishing effects for modulators. Multiple flashing lights is proven to make the brain filter them out. There is no question of this. Groups of motorcyclists aren't necessarily the only way of putting multiple flashing lights in a driver's vision. Flashing crosswalk signals, a rider ahead and a rider behind can mask the oncoming rider's modulating headlight. The novelty effect is a possibility, but there hasn't been a study done to prove the novelty effect is a non-issue. I disagree with people finding modulators annoying meaning they work. It doesn't necessarily help with motorcycle speed, distance or size identification. An orange vest or riding jacket with retroreflective material will help with conspicuity, day and night. Easier to use, just as good or better for conspicuity and non-offensive. What's not to like? Skier fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jan 9, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2009 00:30
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Then you look like a lamer and not a powerranger from the future. We motorcyclists make worse anecdotal evidence than usual, since we're always looking for bikes. Yes, modulators are supposed to avoid the "I didn't see you" accidents. However, remember eye contact doesn't mean the driver sees you? Just looking at an item doesn't mean it's properly identified. So while the driver looks right at the motorcycle they can still fail to classify it as something worth looking at longer. My view is modulators offer no gains over other conspicuity enhancers but do offer drawbacks: annoyed motorists and sometimes startled motorists. And yes, modulators are illegal at night.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 9, 2009 00:53
|
|
|
Ola posted:Like powdery sand I suppose. One piece was a thin sliver, I guess 1 mm long. I'm going to think about sending an oil sample for analysis. Partly for fun science, partly to keep an eye on development. I've done this on almost every change on my 599. I like the  .
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2009 20:04
|
|
|
What the hell would cause my brake pad slider pin to get this kind of wear? No wonder my front brakes seemed a bit louder than usual, the pad couldn't back away from the rotor.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 2, 2009 04:49
|
|
|
BlueBayou posted:Im more than likely about to lose my health insurance. I have decent bike coverage, should I up it? get uninsured drive coverage? Or does bike insurance only cover my bike? Make sure you have medical coverage on your motorcycle policy. Explicitly ask your agent this.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 5, 2009 19:56
|
|
|
I'm hopping over to a new insurance company that handled my buddy's motorcycle claim very well. They want an additional $112 a year for $10,000 of medical coverage per person involved in any accident on my motorcycle policy. Try shopping around, I don't think $1,000 would have paid for my ambulance ride from the middle of nowhere, Idaho.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2009 15:53
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Those are going to be absurdly expensive though. Even more so than the penske. Hagons are generally the cheapest aftermarket option.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2009 20:32
|
|
|
Missing a spacer?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2009 05:40
|
|
|
Smirk posted:I've noticed on my Hornet that when I let the clutch out in neutral, I can feel and hear what I presume is stuff spinning in the gearbox. Is this normal? 599s are notorious for a loud clutch in neutral. If it goes away when you pull the clutch lever in, it's perfectly normal.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2010 06:54
|
|
|
There's too many options for rear shocks and I can't find the suspension thread. What are folks' opinions on: Ohlins Works Performance Hagon YSS Penske Racetech Progressive Ikon
|
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2011 17:06
|
|
|
Saga posted:For what? My '08 Triumph Scrambler needs some aftermarket shocks, but I'm looking for comparisons in general. I know Ohlins is usually considered top of the heap, with Penske a close second, but not many folks have experience with Racetech shocks. In the States Hagons are kind of rare, Works are also rare for some reason, YSS is the new kid on the block for good shocks, Progressive and Ikon are the cheap bastards. Porkchop Express posted:Thanks! Ignore the JESUS OUR SAVIOR  stuff and poke around here.
Skier fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Feb 3, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Feb 3, 2011 17:52
|
|
|
This would probably be a good start: Two wheel steering. Also a three wheel drive 'busa hack demonstrating a CV joint for a steering wheel also being driven: here and here. Actually that hack has two wheel steering as well, but it's two out of three so whatever. Thanks for the shocktalk guys. I have an Ohlins on my 599 but it's been too snowy and icy and rainy out to take the solo bike, so I can't see if it was worth the bucks. It's gotta beat my busted stocker after the miles and abuse I put on it. Skier fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Feb 4, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Feb 4, 2011 06:28
|
|
|
Don't we have a suspension thread somewhere?  Question: is Race Tech fork oil worth the  $30 per quart or is anything the right weight good enough for a couple years on the street?Semi-related, I have the Race Tech Motorcycle Suspension Bible and skimming a few sections is super-enlightening. Can't wait to actually understand suspension.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 19, 2011 02:18
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Anything of the appropriate weight is fine for street use. Half of them don't actually have the viscosity they claim anyways. I've seen a comprehensive chart floating around with the measured viscosity of fork oils and you're right: a lot aren't anywhere near what they advertise. Retsalb posted:Anything that has the right viscosity, pressure and temperature requirements and is compatible with your forks materials (metals/seals/gaskets) will do. I'm looking at changing the damping characteristics of the current forks. I've been told they are underdamped and am playing around with dialing them in. Plus I've got a few seasons on the current fluid and it's probably getting close to played out with the poo poo I put my bike through. No leaks here! I believe the OEM Showa SS8 fluid I put back in them is dino based, as is the new stuff I bought over the weekend.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2011 07:04
|
|
|
Is there a rule of thumb for suspension travel that should remain when under maximum braking? Looking at the dust on my front forks, under heavy braking I might have 1/2" of travel left in the front forks on my 599. The surface I was on wasn't grippy enough to pull the back tire up during braking like I can do on other surfaces, but I still laid down some decent stops. I have Race Tech springs in the forks, the 0.85 rated ones. Looking at their calculator online, I may want the 0.90 springs, especially with how much gear I wear. Or is 1/2" of travel left acceptable during maximum braking?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2011 19:34
|
|
|
Pagan posted:I've never heard of those, but they look quite useful. If their arms are too short to take n8r's suggestion, Givi luggage racks make great hand holds for passengers.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2011 17:06
|
|
|
How is the rim prevented from spinning?
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2011 21:48
|
|
|
Z3n posted:I'll throw out the dissenting opinion...it seems as good as the HF stuff I use. I don't use the center post thing, just tire irons, so that'd work out nicely and looks like it wouldn't require any drilling into the ground. $100 is a bit expensive, but only $20 more than the HF setup. If it breaks the bead and can hold the tire, that's all you really need. If you're gonna use tire irons, no need to buy much more than the irons and a big c-clamp for breaking the bead. Last tubed tire I changed I slapped the wheel on the new tire, pushed the bead in with my hand and the tire irons were used from there. The entire Harbor Freight jobber, which they don't sell any more, was a steal for $100. Chincy but if you're only changing a couple tires a year, good enough.
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2011 16:44
|
|
|
Some two-by-fours and bolts make a nice bead breaker, as I understand. Reusing tires is a weird concept to me since mine usually get changed when they are paper thin or have a nail hanging out of them. 
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2011 17:47
|
|
|
NoDoorway posted:Honda Hornet 900 (Honda 919 in the states I think) vs Monster m1000s as a daily ride, commuter, tourer and weekend carver. For practicality, the Hornet. If you can be comfortable enough on the Duc to put in the long days for touring, go for that and everything else be damned.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 23, 2011 15:52
|
|
|
Armyman25 posted:My Bonneville has developed a starting problem. In neutral, with the run switch on, battery charged, the starter just makes this clicking noise when I press the starter button. Your battery is dead. Also how are you bump starting without putting it in gear?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2011 18:35
|
|
|
Armyman25 posted:Shoot. I charged my battery up and took it to Advance Auto parts store to get it tested, they said it was a bad battery, and I've got the replacement ready for installation tomorrow. What's the word on the Triumph?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2011 18:53
|
|
|
Everyone is a grandma in the cornering eval.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 11, 2011 23:14
|
|
|
My Triumph Scrambler sidecar rig's rear suspension is having issues. There's a lot of stiction/static friction on the rear, especially if it's been sitting for a while. I can almost get my entire weight on the foot peg before it feels like something breaks loose again. Then it's fine, until it sits without moving for a certain amount of time. That amount of time used to be weeks, now it's hours or minutes. I took the swingarm out and inspected the bearings, bushings and swingarm... axle for lack of a better word. Everything looked okay, the needle bearing was a little resistant but not gritty, so I cleaned and regreased it. After reassembly of the swingarm, before installing the shocks, I swept the swingarm through its entire range of travel and it was very, very smooth, no binding. Also checked for play and didn't feel any. Shocks back on, bike back on the ground and it's doing the same thing. The only thing that hasn't been looked at are my shocks - could I have destroyed an inner bushing and it's binding? No oil is leaking out but the stiction is really bad. They are Works Performance shocks with ~15k miles, never been serviced. Anything else I should look at?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2016 21:43
|
|
|
Skier posted:My Triumph Scrambler sidecar rig's rear suspension is having issues. There's a lot of stiction/static friction on the rear, especially if it's been sitting for a while. I can almost get my entire weight on the foot peg before it feels like something breaks loose again. Then it's fine, until it sits without moving for a certain amount of time. That amount of time used to be weeks, now it's hours or minutes. Update on this: goddamnedtwisto was on the money, the shocks are the source of stiction. The left one is the worst but they both have a bit. I'll be sending them off for servicing and inspection in the future.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2016 17:30
|
|
|
clutchpuck posted:Pop quiz hot shots Milepost book but for poo poo's sake don't bring the whole damned thing with you, tear out the pages you need and leave the rest at home.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2016 06:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 09:59 |
|
|
Works Performance is out of business. The Works Performance shocks on my Triumph Scrambler are (past) due for a rebuild/servicing. RaceTech says they have a small collection of rebuild parts but since Works Performance is gone, they can't get any more parts, so they may or may not have the pieces to rebuild my shocks. Traxxion Dynamics recommends Bitubos for shocks, even over more expensive offerings they sell, such as Penske. Options available: * Roll the dice and see if RaceTech can rebuild the existing shocks for $300 and punt on getting new shocks for another few years * Buy Bitubos for something like $500 for a pair * Buy one of the many higher end offerings: Penske, Ohlins, RaceTech G3-S, Nitron, etc... which all look to be around a grand for a pair I'm leaning to the Bitubo option, mostly because I can keep dealing with Traxxion Dynamics because they are so much nicer to deal with than any other suspension company I've talked to. Sadly due to the aftermarket exhaust and sidecar mounts I can't really go with a piggyback style external reservoir so I'm limited in choices. Any other options I'm missing? Anything jumps out as the best option to everyone?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 18, 2017 05:30
|
|