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epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
My fuel line is wrapped in some protective plastic and routed in between my rear head and carb (the inlet is on the left side of the carb). It's squeezed in there pretty good, these two photos are of the carb pulled slightly out, you can see some pinch marks on the black plastic.



Here's the carb pulled away from the manifold.



I finally had enough of my knee banging against the huge stock air cleaner, bought a new air cleaner which required a bracket to hold the carb in. Now the fuel line is really squashed in there.



The line itself isn't pinched enough to stop the fuel flowing. But I don't like that the fuel line (even with the protective sheath) is touching the head, let alone mashed against it. Maybe there's room to route the line under rather than up and over? But it looks like that would require twisting the inlet down maybe 15-20 degrees.



Can I twist that sucker down without any problems? Or should I just take the loss and find a less dumb bracket?

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epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

That fitting is pressed in so I don't think you can rotate it without consequences. I think if you get rid of the dumb plastic conduit and replace it with a thin metal braided sleeve or similar it would do the trick. That bracket is kind of yuck because the crank case vent just going into the breeze will eventually cover that side of the motor in oil vapor. This doesn't matter if you have a dumb chopper you never ride or a race bike you clean constantly but it's pretty stupid for a street bike you actually use, it's one of those cargo cult things

Yeah, I'll check how thick the plastic conduit is, makes sense to find something thinner.

It's true, the breather bolts (with filters) definitely do a poo poo job, oil vapor's covering everything. I lowered the level in the oil tank towards the bottom of the dipstick (I usually keep it at the halfway mark) and it's better but still poo poo. I'm going to install banjos and route the oil vapors to some catch can. I don't really like the look of some dangling hemorrhoid but maybe I can mount the catch can somewhere sensible.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
What’s your take on the claim that routing oil vapors back into the intake/engine (as opposed to a catch can or just venting to atmosphere) is generally bad and leads to excessive carbon buildup on your pistons? Fake news?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

epswing posted:

Yeah, I'll check how thick the plastic conduit is, makes sense to find something thinner.

The plastic conduit is pretty thin, replacing it didn't look like it'd give me any meaningful additional clearance. After considering my options, I chanced rotating the brass fitting, seems to be ok, now nothing's touching any hot parts. We'll see if the fitting fails and dumps a tank full of gas on the garage floor :v: truthfully though I always shut my petcock off when I park because either the the float needle or the fuel inlet or the petcock vacuum diaphragm is going to fail sooner or later and I don't particularly want the whole tank drained out.




Here's the damage to the rocker cover, courtesy of the stock fuel line routing.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Beve Stuscemi posted:

Is that a……..load bearing banjo bolt?

:catstare:

Mmm, so the carb is a spigot mount and needs a bracket to hold it in place, and the air cleaner/filter hangs off the other side of the bracket. My AC is small and light, I wouldn’t say there’s much of a load (but what do I know). The bracket is fastened to the crankcase breathers, and the (hollow) fasteners (breather bolts) go through banjos which route the oil vapor elsewhere.

Finished product:



The stock setup is the same except the AC is bigger, and the breather bolts just expel oil vapor directly into the air filter (no banjos needed).

My main motivation through all this is just to have a smaller AC that my knee doesn’t touch, which means I have to route that oil vapor somewhere. I tried venting to atmosphere first via little filter screens but they don’t work worth a drat.

epswing fucked around with this message at 15:34 on Jul 3, 2023

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Nidhg00670000 posted:

How do we workshop this into the thread title?

Yeah I didn’t know what to do with it but someone’s gotta do something right?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

RadioPassive posted:

Had a fuel leak on my Hornet so I've got the carburetors off it and I'm replacing all the seals. Not my first rodeo at all, but I've found that these carbs apparently use a single-d screwhead/driver for the pilot mix screw, which is fine, I'll go source the correct driver for it, but also how on earth do you adjust this screw with the carbs on the bike?

I'm sure I saw in a Honda carb-related video a guy using a D bit on the end of a flexible/spring head.

Edit: found it, this video at 8:45 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKjZ_jCw3cM&t=525s

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
While still running, if I turn the key off and the engine briefly dies, then fires 1-2 times before fully stopping, what's that telling me? It's rare, but it happens from time to time, usually after a long ride. If the key is off, wouldn't that mean my plugs can't be firing? If so, I'm still getting combustion off compression alone (like a diesel)? Is the engine running way too hot/lean?

Edit: Some more info: stock carb, stock exhaust, stock jets, a/f screw is 2.5 turns out, idle screw set to 950 rpm. No problems at idle or WOT. Plugs are maybe 3 months old. Gas is 91 octane.

epswing fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Sep 6, 2023

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

It's kicking over because it's particularly hot and the last cycle would've dragged a little bit of fuel in, the mixture when this happens is particularly lean and will auto ignite. I wouldn't worry about it unless the bike is actually running really lean or something.

LimaBiker posted:

In especially bad cases with especially hot engines it can keep running for as long as the engine's properly hot

Slavvy posted:

Harleys are inefficient and they do run hot , they're definitely the bike with the most old-car-like engine.

Nerobro posted:

TL;DR: Something in your top end is staying hot and it should be checked out.
Something is still hot enough to burn some fuel.

I'm sensing a trend here. After a 30 minute "spirited" ride an infrared heat gun reads 350F (177C) on the metal right next to the spark plug of the rear cylinder. Oil temp dipstick reads 220F (104C). How hot is "hot"?

Sometimes my intake burps if I throttle on too hard before the bike is warm enough, I suspect I might have a small intake leak and/or might otherwise be running lean.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

builds character posted:

I suspect dealing with vibration will be your most difficult problem.

Speaking of which, has anyone had their phone vibrate to death on their bike? I've heard/read that's a thing. Does the Quadlock or other product that claims "vibration dampening" actually work?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

To put that in perspective, a spoked dirt bike wheel is much, much stronger than the average cast alloy street bike wheel

Why? What will the cast alloy street bike wheel do, is it more brittle and it'll just break/shatter instead of bend/dent?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Remy Marathe posted:

Tried a couple abortive bump starts before remembering that may not be smart with EFI.

Been years since I owned an EFI bike, but I feel like I must have bumped one before. What’s the issue with bump/push starting a bike with EFI?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
There are a few bolts with allen heads on my bike that are hard to reach (foot controls behind the exhaust, rocker covers under the frame backbone). Anyone know if there exists a torque adapter but instead of a set of 12pt sae sockets it's just a single tool with female 3/8" drive on one side, male 3/8" drive on the other, so I can use it with basically any socket/bit? I'm not sure what to search for, or if it even exists.

Edit: Hm looks like it does exist: https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24208-Torque-Adaptor-Engines/dp/B01MQYL3N0/ except that's 3/4" female to 1/2" male (too big for my application).

epswing fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Oct 31, 2023

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

I would simply not bother torquing foot rest bolts

I don't actually care that I can't precisely torque foot rest bolts to 50 ft/lb :v: but in the case of the rocker box cover bolts, I actually kinda do want to torque those, and there's one in particular that's literally under the frame.

It's more about gaining access to things I can't normally reach, and I'm just using the word "torque" because it's in the product name.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Why aren’t gas tanks a decorative metal shell over a plastic container?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Scam Likely posted:

Is there a word for that sensation of the handlebars no longer being straight even when you're riding in a straight line? Every once in a while my brain just decides the bars are turned when they definitely aren't. Usually takes a few glances down at my hands to reset the feeling.

Yes, all the time. So much so that I even feel it on exercise bikes. When I realized this, I stopped thinking everything I rode was out of alignment and started thinking that maybe one of my arms is longer than the other.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
I've got a bin in my garage containing various liquids like wd-40, fuel stabilizer, carb cleaner, brake clean, 3-in-1, pb blaster, assembly lube, cable lube, etc. My garage isn't heated, so it regularly reaches freezing temps during the winter. Should I be bringing this bin into the house during the winter?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

opengl posted:

I've got a bunch of batter tender juniors and they've never given me any trouble

Same, a Battery Tender Jr has carried my bikes through many Canadian winters.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
I have some super basic questions about electrical systems.



On the right, the charging circuit says after the reg/rec it goes from the A terminal of the 30A fuse to the +ve battery terminal.

On the left, the starting circuit says the A terminal of the 30A fuse goes first to the post on the starter, then to the +ve battery terminal.

I don’t have access to the bike right now, but when I see differences like this, is it usually just shorthand for diagram (in)convenience? Or are there really two wires on the A terminal of the 30A fuse (one to the starter, one to the battery). If not, isn’t the starter part of the charging circuit, and if so, why wouldn’t they show that in the charging circuit diagram?

epswing fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Mar 14, 2024

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

Is this a Haynes manual or something? The Harley online manual diagrams don't look like that.

It's a photo from my actual '05 Sportster FSM.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
In Canada, or at least Ontario, both Kijiji and Marketplace are active. Marketplace has more squids and boomers who know what they got.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
I'm getting around to replacing my starter, now that it's less frigid in my garage, and I have a question the little clip that holds 3 hoses coming out of my oil tank. On the stock starter, on the top there's a long bolt, and on the bottom there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads, and that's what the clip attaches to. On the aftermarker starter (it's the Alls Balls 1.4kw), on the bottom there's a long bolt, and on the top there's a slightly longer bolt that protrudes enough to show extra threads.

What do these bolts actually do, and am I meant to swap them around if necessary? Maybe I should just turn the clip upside down?





Here's the clip:



PS getting the a starter out of a Sportster sucks. The rear exhaust had to come off, fine, but the FSM doesn't say that due to the aforementioned clip, the clip needs to be removed, which means so does the plate in front of the front belt pulley, which means the front exhaust had to also come off :argh:

epswing fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Apr 7, 2024

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Bonus question, here are my exhaust ports. One of these things doesn't look like the other one. What's going on with my rear exhaust, it looks... toasty?



epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Bleh, doesn't quite reach. I'll find a small nut+bolt to hold the clip together, I'm not too worried about it.



Here's some bonus footage of the little plastic stairs (meant to keep the chain/sprockets from turning) exploding under pressure while applying a couple hundred ft-lb of torque to the engine sprocket nut. I'm a dummy, I should have just bought the proper tool (metal bar that jams in between the sprockets).

https://i.imgur.com/HACmVHV.mp4

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

I regret selling my DRZ

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epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
I replaced my Sportster’s starter with an All Balls 1.4kW starter, it was tough to get remove/install but my bike has never started more easily. I’ve gone for 3-4 rides, so far so good, but today when starting I heard a crunchy sound before it started. And now, the starter relay just clicks once. Battery reads 12.80

https://i.imgur.com/NLMqgG0.mp4

I’m going to check the starter relay and connections first, but is that a “get back into the primary immediately” sound?

epswing fucked around with this message at 23:42 on May 4, 2024

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