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Anuv posted:How do I check my tire pressure? yeah I'm dumb but should I have the tires at the suggested numbers when they're cold or hot? Most tires say right on them, but the numbers are cold pressure suggestions. edit for Z3n: actually, i meant the tires say that the numbers are cold fill numbers. If in doubt, you should always use the manufacturer's suggested pressures as written in your manual, not on the sidewall. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 15:42 on Oct 7, 2008 |
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Oct 5, 2008 16:39
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I know the feeling. Once, I came very close to buying two container-loads of mid-70s to 82 era Fiat Spiders. Not bikes, but oh the pain of letting that go over storage. 
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Oct 10, 2008 15:21
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OrangeFurious posted:My Thruxton intermittently stalls when I coast with the clutch lever in. I haven't been able to pin-point anything, but have noticed it occurs more often when I'm going downhill and when I've been laying on the throttle. I cannot consistently reproduce it, but the most common scenario is cresting the top of a suspension bridge near my home at 80+ mph, pulling in the clutch for the descent, and the needle on the tach dropping to zero at which point it's off. I have this problem on my KZ1000. She's old and cranky, though. When she's rolling she's fine, then if I'm approaching a light or slow-down, and clutch-in, she dies. 
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Oct 12, 2008 17:21
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shaitan posted:I pay $116/yr for my 250. I use State Farm, I live in Upstate Ny, I am also 29 with a clean driving record (no tickets for 8 years). I also have a loan on the bike so I have full coverage, no clue how much it would be with min coverage. gently caress you guys. I use State Farm, I'm 30 with a clean record. $1000/year. Three zeroes. For a KZ1000, with only liability. I paid $800 for the drat bike.
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Nov 7, 2008 18:21
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Z3n posted:Wow, what the gently caress. You need to change insurance companies... That is the lowest price I could get in the province. Yeah, Canadian province. Most insurance companies wouldn't even insure me, and the few that do bikes were sky-high. This is totally normal here. I pay less for my car.
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Nov 8, 2008 13:35
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Without a fancy rig, I would assume it would be easier to maneuver down the stairs backwards, with the handlebars at the top for support. A friend at the tail, and one in front holding the bike would seem useful as well. Just a thought.
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Nov 20, 2008 19:28
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Phat_Albert posted:I tried Evapo-rust on my moped, it didnt work at all. I've heard mixed reviews about the POR-15 rust removal kit. Can you describe the physical set-up you use to do the tanks? I imagine it's pretty awkward doing the interior surface.
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Dec 22, 2008 06:52
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Phat_Albert posted:I bought some thin metal bar from the hardware store, put the tank in a tupperware filled with water/washing soda. Then I put the bars in the tank so they ran all the way to the back, and bent upwards to come out the filler neck. So, you immersed the entire tank, and the one electrode just juts in through the filler hole?
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Dec 22, 2008 22:00
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1977 KZ1000 I can't get my bike starting reliably. So far I have confirmed spark, checked the carbs (was going to clean them but they are spotless inside), visually synced them as best I could, and I just resealed the valve cover because it was leaking oil, and put on new exhaust gaskets because they were leaking exhaust. After everything it's still hard to start, and when I last took it out, it would want to stall when I pulled away after stopping, and was hard to re-start. What should I be checking next? How do I set the idle mix screws, and then the idle screw for the throttle? Trial and error?
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May 12, 2009 18:43
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Ola posted:Battery/charging. Then compression. Ok, my battery doesn't have a rating, but it's testing at about 70 cold crank amps. I have no idea if that is good or not. quote:On a non running bike, sort of yeah. You should really check a bike specific forum before fiddling with it, but if required to trial/error it I would screw the idle mix screws all the way in and then 3 turns out, less or more depending on how many turns it took to screw them in. Throttle idle ... check as best you can how far the mechanism is off its stops. If you haven't fiddled much with it, just leave it. Same goes for idle mix screws really. Idle mix screws were all exactly one and a half turns out from all the way in. The throttle idle screw I had to remove to take off the diaphragm cap of one of my carbs. So I tried starting the bike through the range, a half turn at a time. I think it's at the setting where the bike wants to start the most, but who knows! 
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May 12, 2009 20:07
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I cannot figure my bike out. I had it out for a nice ride Sunday night, then Monday morning it wouldn't start. Cranks over and over, and won't catch. I got it to start on my first try, the idle fluctuated a lot, then it died and wouldn't start again. Tonight, it cranked over and over and finally caught, ran fast for a while with choke, then started to even out, then died. I can't get it to start again, with any degree of choke or throttle. Carbs are perfectly clean, I just got my fuel mix more or less established. Nothing changed since Sunday when it ran perfectly and felt great on the road at all speeds. No sputtering or stalling when slowing or with throttle. It's a 1977 KZ1000, Mikuni 33 smoothbores, pods and pipe. I've had no end of trouble tuning it, but it seemed fine just two days ago, and now it's done. Where do I go from here?
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Jun 16, 2010 02:49
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Bugdrvr posted:I'd pull your plugs and have a look at them. If they are all fouled out it won't start. I really don't know why it would have run perfectly and then not at all now. Maybe it's running rich and the accumulated soot is keeping it from starting now? I checked my plugs last night, and they are black. A little sooty, and a little oily. I'm thinking new valve guide seals, dial back the fuel a touch more, and hotter plugs should help. Is this the right way to go? My air mixture screws are capped. Is it better to drill them out and increase the airflow, or is dialing back fuel the better way to go? How do you even begin to figure out the best mixture?
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Jun 19, 2010 17:40
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I'm pretty sure it's rich at idle, because I get a fair amount of smoke and popping while I warm it up. I have fuel mix screws on the bottoms next to the bowls, and just the idle adjustment screw at the middle of the rack. Since there's nothing else adjustable, I'm fairly certain one of the little capped passages hold the air mixture screw. Is there a way to confirm, and figure out which one before I put the drill to it?
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Jun 21, 2010 03:47
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Bugdrvr posted:Depending upon the carbs you'll either have an air bleed or a fuel screw. Usually you won't have both. The rule of thumb is if it's before the carb it's an air screw and if it's after it's a fuel screw. This is getting very confusing. My pilots are 17.5, which almost all the folks over at kzrider.com are using for similar setups. Any goons near Kitchener-Waterloo, Ontario that would help a guy tune for beer?
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Jun 22, 2010 00:22
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I can't make any progress with my 1977 KZ1000. It's been hard starting forever, but the carbs are clean and jets seem correct for the current setup, with pods and a pipe. I can't go back to stock because I never had the stock parts. I replaced the battery, as the old one wouldn't charge. After sitting for a few weeks, I put a trickle charge on overnight. Bike won't crank at all. Lights are bright, and when I press the starter, I get one solid click, and the lights go dim. They stay dim for several minutes, but eventually seems to come back. I recently put in new plugs, but the ones I wanted weren't in stock. They sold me the same plug with a resistor (NGK BR7ES instead of B7ES). Would this have anything to do with it? I can't even continue fine-tuning the hard starting from before, which I blame on the carbs, some oil in the cylinders and the old plugs. I need to know my electrics are working 100% first. What do I start with? Also, would love to work with a friendly knowledgeable CA goon in the Central-SW Ontario area (Kitchener-Waterloo-Cambridge) if anyone has a use for free beer.
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Sep 19, 2010 14:10
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Diag steps for those?
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Sep 19, 2010 14:50
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Blaster of Justice posted:Sorry, I'm kind of tired. I can't remember inner and outer wiring resistance for ignition coils on random bikes on top of my head. Your voltage regulator is definitely hosed though. Just replace it and go from there. Thanks, but what leads you to this conclusion? I only ask because I'm not learning much about fixing my bike if I just replace the parts I'm pointed to, and it magically works.
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Sep 19, 2010 22:18
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Do the handlebars turn, or does it drift left with the front wheel pointing forward?
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Oct 26, 2010 02:22
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I have a couple questions about my new bike: 2014 BMW G650GS. I now have 1200km, and it's time for the running-in service. I'm going to change the oil, check & lube the chain and basically inspect the bike overall. The service guide shows the mechanics would check torque on a thousand or so fasteners on the bike. If I do this service instead of taking it in, am I going to miss the one bolt that holds the bike in one piece and come apart on the highway? I also have a scritchy-scratchy noise from the front pads more or less every time I brake. It didn't do it brand new, but now does it in all conditions, warm or cold, wet or dry. Is this normal for a modern pad material or whatever unicorn dust BMW makes them from? Last question. I find it's become easier to miss second when shifting at intersections. I know I need to give it a firm kick up into gear, but I've found myself revving uselessly a couple times. This did not happen in the first 500km, but now happens occasionally even though I feel like I'm shifting firmly. Before I go whine at the dealership about all this, just wanted to get some opinions. All in all, I'm loving riding this thing compared to my 1977 KZ1000. 
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Jul 21, 2014 14:12
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ReelBigLizard posted:How far do you pull in your clutch lever when shifting up? That's pretty hard to quantify, since it's so unconscious. For 1-2, I believe I pull it right to the bar quickly, but I'm going to try to pay attention to that now. Which might disappear the problem
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Jul 21, 2014 15:37
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Is there any online tool or chart that can identify substitute battery size options? My BMW takes a 12AL-A2, which is apparently really uncommon. I'm trying to find a replacement in a lithium battery, but not having any luck. A 14-BS seems similar, and is used in other BMWs, but I'm not sure I can swap it in. I'm in Canada, so some of the bigger online retailers won't ship to me, even though I've found one or two via their fitment tool. Those are sold under a brand name model number, so I can't even figure out what standard battery group size they are, either. Bike is a 2014 BMW G650GS (not Sertao) in case anyone knows what fits it.
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May 16, 2020 17:04
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Gonna Send It posted:For the lithium batteries, you can go physically smaller than the original size because they still have the necessary cold cranking amps (capacity is reduced when going to lithium though). Why do you want lithium instead of a Yuasa? Yeah, I know I can go smaller as long as I match CCA. Hoping to get somewhat similar amp hours, too. I don't ride as often as I'd like, and our winter is the best 10 months of the year, so I'd like something more enduring.
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May 16, 2020 17:32
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I got a nice new Li battery thanks to the thread helping me find the right size. I charged it up, and now my bike cranks and cranks forever with no ignition. I’ve run this thing flat, charged it and run it flat three times but I can’t get it to start. For reference, bike is a 2014 BMW G650GS It is EFI, ECM controlled, push button start. No kick starter. So far I have pulled the many plastics and checked the air box, air filter, control cables and connections. Fuses look good, but manual suggests all EFI is run through one fuse, so fuel pump and injectors should be on that circuit. Unless there is another hidden one. I think I can hear the fuel pump for a half second when turning the key, but hard to really say. Pulled plugs, they look ok, but might not be getting wet? No fuel? Maybe injectors deliver so little I can’t trust that. Not sure what else to check on this thing. I refueled with fresh gas. Still just cranks. Sprayed some starter fluid, but don’t want to mess up the sensors or anything so when it didn’t even sputter I stopped with that.
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May 31, 2020 21:54
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I need CA's help solving a stupid problem. After confirming my no-start problem was a failed fuel pump, I bought this replacement fuel pump kit. The pump works great, but the fitments is.. less than exact. I was able to get everything together, except the fuel hose between the pump and the sending unit. That little corrugated straw they provide in the kit is flexible, but not at all pliable. I can't get it onto the sending unit barb more than a 1/4" or so, and it slips off under pressure. I tried warming the hose with boiling water, then a heat gun, but it just gets hot to the touch and not really any more pliable. This is some kind of stiff nylon, I think. Is there a method here I'm missing? Or what is a good alternative fuel hose I can use? It has to be EFI pressure rated, and submersible rated. All I'm finding is the thick, heavy, braided rubber bulk hose which probably won't flex into the place it needs to go; the route between the barbs isn't straight. I'd like to eventually ride this year. mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Jul 9, 2020 |
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Jul 9, 2020 01:04
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kloa posted:Probably have to safety wire it to keep it on. Yeah, I clamped it on that quarter inch but I’d really rather have it fit on fully.
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Jul 9, 2020 02:05
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