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Yes its probably just acrylic or tempera paint with some kind of carbon based pigment. Either of those will still be a pain in the rear end to get out of your hair. Basically just a piece of preprimed canvas and some black paint with a nice label.
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Jan 23, 2012 08:48
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Dr. David PHD posted:Looking for a glue that will effectively stick 2 pieces of card stock together with a relatively fast (1 minute or less) drying time. I have been using hot glue but I don't like the "strings" it leaves everywhere, I do like the fact that the 2 pieces are practically cemented together. I would use spray adhesive, they make it in different brands and strengths. Once you get the hang of it, its easy. Ventilated area only, though.
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Feb 1, 2012 20:30
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I don't know what the specific materials you're working with will do. Probably wont do anything, but I'd just buy a small can and try it out. I mean, you're asking how much rubber cement costs... http://lmgtfy.com/?q=amazon+rubber+cement&l=1 C'mon man... They both use solvents as their drying agents so whatever happens with one would happen with the other. Spray adhesive is actually very similar to rubber cement, just in a spray can.
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Feb 1, 2012 23:30
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slowdave posted:What is Mod Podge? Some kind of a glue? I'm not familiar with the brand and would like to know what it basically is. Pretty sure Modpodge is just another animal based adhesive, like elmers or gorilla glue, but of higher quality. Depending on the look you're going for, you can use acrylic materials as an alternative - I think they're more durable and predictable, but a bit more expensive. For image transfers, I usually just use hardware store grade acetone and a 'baren' like device... if you're going onto a rough surface, obviously sanding it will help your transfer. Consider sealing it in resin to make it look well crafted.
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Feb 27, 2012 23:35
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Your best bet would probably be a library... but have a look at Simon Leach or Karen Karnes ceramics images online, they make nice casseroles with handles like that. Japanese teapots also have similar handles.
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Feb 28, 2012 01:20
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The Worst Muslim posted:I'm very sorry if this isn't the right place but I have looked everywhere for an appropriate thread and this is the closest I can find. I want to get rid of borders on a world map. It's a picture of a prediction of what the world will look like if the global temperature rises. I need some help in getting rid of the borders and place names. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=remove+borders+on+an+image+with+ms+paint put your big kid shoes on. seriously.
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Mar 20, 2012 18:11
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Toriori posted:Thanks for the opinions folks. I emailed him today and told him we could hang tonight still but if not let me know and I would get the next artist to hang. He emailed back and we ended up hanging the art. He explained that he was filming a music video last night and it went late. That's all well and good but he didn't email me last night or today to let me know why he didn't show so it isn't really a valid excuse to me. This boils down to you setting clear expectations when you initially deal with people. If I were you, I would say there's a standby list, and if you don't show, I go to the next person on my list. One of the ways you can really stand out as a creative person is to not be a flake. And for some people that's tough, and for some it's not, but the more reliable you are, the more successful you will be. There's really no excuse for bullshit - you want professional consideration? act like a professional. And definitely keep track of every show you hang, that kind of experience has real value in the long run.
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Mar 21, 2012 21:09
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Chernabog posted:I need help to identify a painting from a description: http://www.sfmoma.org/explore/collection/painting_sculpture c'mon. really.
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May 14, 2012 03:11
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Actually it's on the first page on that link I just posted; you barely even have to scroll down.
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May 14, 2012 05:53
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Jastiger posted:I'm trying to make an image macro. The type where someone says something really poignant and they look all refined and stuff like that. I have no art skills and have downloaded GIMP. I have no idea what I'm doing. I can't even get the picture a bit bigger or get the text to appear on screen. Any help or direction to a good resource for a newbie like me would be great. Thanks a lot! try google
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May 18, 2012 08:08
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It is nonsense. Reflected light is reflected light - when it hits your retina, it's a translated into a color. The tone as it goes to shadow is a gradient of that color. Our eyes can pick that up fairly easily. This is how I understand it. Granted I use traditional materials so I may be off-base on the computer related poo poo but I'll give it a whack. There are a few things going on here. Just looking at your sketch I can see that you have issues with accuracy, tone, and color, and you need to understand all three. People telling you to mix with colors not black, that's mostly a throwback to people who use traditional materials. If I have a pigment like vermillion or cadmium red, both very different but intense reds, and mix a carbon based black ("ivory black") into them they won't darken, they'll go brown. I can mix other pigments in gradient to change tone and they won't go as brown. The other side of this is people will tell you to use blues for shaded areas. This is for a few reasons - because the complimentary colors will help your highlights pop, and it will also bring down the tonal range that you employ. What you're doing wrong on that count is starting with a ball that's completely red. You want reds for the highlights, blues for the deep shadows, and something in-between for the gradients. And that's something you just have to work with and get used to until it "looks right." Actually doing it is the only way you will learn. What you really need to watch out for with computers is your tone accuracy. You CAN use black/greys to shade a color but black is something we very rarely experience as visual creatures. Beginners tend to overcompensate with black way too much. My serious feedback is that you're putting the cart before the horse. Work on line and tone and forget about color for a year. Be able to knock out a shaded circle/square/triangle volume without even thinking about it. The color work will be a lot easier if your understanding and employment of line and tone are solid.
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Jun 11, 2012 22:30
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nas1234567890 posted:Thanks to everyone that answered my question. I know what you mean. I've been developing my style personally since high school,
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Jun 12, 2012 23:12
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anaaki posted:If I wanted to oil paint in my apartment, how would I handle the disposal of chemicals? (I plan to mainly use odorless mineral spirits for thinning) Talking broad strokes you dont really dispose of paint thinner, turps or any solvents - you store them in appropriate containers for re-use. The paint settles out pretty quickly. I use a large glass container to wash my brushes and a small container just for turps that I paint with. Also speaking generally, using mineral spirits for pain thinning will distort color a lot more than using better mediums like refined turps. You can use almost anything to clean your brushes, but the solvent you use to lay down paint will impact color and cracking. You don't see it immediately, but in 6-12 months you will. Do an example for yourself, take a piece of gessoed board, and with whatever paint you use lay down some paint on its own, using mineral spirits, or refined turps. Stick it in a dark closet for 6 months.
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Jul 24, 2012 19:48
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As far as the mineral spirits thing, it depends on how anal you are about materials. They'll do the same thing while you're painting, it just affects aging, as will buying lovely paint with a lot of fillers that are low quality. You're gonna pollute the earth no matter what. That's just the nature of the business. I usually threw away rags in a metal container stored outside, but I used paper towels. I'd keep pets away from any of it, more for the mess factor than anything. You might also want to invest in a HEPA filter, they are pretty cheap and really nice if you are working indoors. Will also cut down on dust in your paint.
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Jul 24, 2012 21:01
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pipes! posted:Excel or Illustrator if you're feeling fancy. Maybe Chartwell? Once in awhile reading through here I stumble upon something really helpful, I got Chartwell last week and it literally blows my mind how easy it is to use, and how good it makes things look.
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Sep 17, 2012 22:32
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The Worst Muslim posted:We're writing up slips to give out to employees on their misconduct. Say for example they slip up and we need to issue them this slip of paper. However, we are having trouble finding good words. What's a good office-y synonym for; Here, check this out I have the perfect link for you, http://bit.ly/QBhcFo Here's another if that doesnt work... http://bit.ly/QBhnk0
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Sep 25, 2012 08:46
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party hat posted:I really hope I can get an answer here! What I would do is make plaster casts of the clay imprints, because plaster is easier to work with for what you're talking about. Shouldn't affect the clay at all (you could test a small area just to be sure, or use the same kind of clay... if the clay has already been fired, just put a release agent on there and then wipe it off afterwards..actually you may want to put a release agent on it anyway just to ease the process). The problem, which I'm sure you're aware, is that not a lot of stuff sticks well to clay, and I can't think of anything that will stick and then release. So, you'd be stuck making some kind of fastening/support system for them which would be easy enough with L brackets or something, but if you just make a plaster negative and positive of the pieces, you can store the originals somewhere safe and not worry. Plus with plaster you can put drat near any adhesive on it and it will work fine, and it's cheap. If you google making plaster molds from a clay positive, you'll get several instructions on how to do it. Very easy. Have a look if it looks like something you'd be interested in you can post more questions here if you have them.
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Dec 21, 2012 00:19
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you could put them on a wood table top and just pour resin over them, that would be bad rear end
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Jan 18, 2013 22:33
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DownItGoes posted:I've recently had the idea to sculpt a large bust and then to paint it when its complete. I've also never made a bust before so I'm not really sure how to go about doing it. If you dont have access to a kiln, I would use plaster of paris instead, primed after you sculpt. Just google it and see what kind of options are out there, quite a few both reductive and additive... It's easily accessible and much cheaper than things like baking clay. I think its more intuitive for beginners, too, but a little messy.
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Jan 29, 2013 21:13
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I don't think there is really a more relevant thread for this, but if there is I will move it. Working on a research project and I would be interested in hearing anyone's comments about this diagram. There are two "general" axes, on the top and bottom, just to illustrate a few points.
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Apr 22, 2013 01:46
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Yip Yips posted:I'm far from an authority on the subject but I would think that the left side has more flexibility/adaptability. I also wonder exactly what "social relevancy" means when referring to art. The less/more is flipped on the top, so you're right on track there. But I need to change it a bit so that's more clear, I think. Thanks. Perceived social relevancy is simply the idea that certain cultural institutions (for example, NY MOMA) are looked upon by many (not just critics, curators, and artworld movers and shakers, but regular visitors and people who don't really participate actively in the artworld) as a kind of cultural gatekeeper, "if it's in the MOMA, there must be something to it." That kind of idea. It's not defining anything as actually relevant or not; that would just boil down to a nihilistic argument. If anything I would say looking at it in terms of economics, laws, and financial transactions would be a (while simplistic) easier view to take. The one thing I did forget were art fairs, but one can just assume they'd be another circle in the diagram. Yip Yips posted:That's true, that type of graph is normally used to highlight the overlaps between the different sectors. It really doesn't do that at all here and just makes it needlessly complex. I didn't really title it properly. Basically those are every element of artworld infrastructure that I can think of. They operate semi-autonomously but are connected to each other at some level or another. There is a big long paper that goes along with this, I'm just not going to post that here because I don't think it's the right audience... if I need to make this diagram simpler, I'll figure out a way to do it.
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Apr 22, 2013 07:58
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Toadstrieb posted:Does anyone know a good, like top-of-the-line-this-will-last-forever fixative for things besides paper? I'm trying to get a matte white zippo lighter autographed, and then I was hoping to pretty much bring it into daily use, but I don't want the autograph to smudge/blur. Sees to me that this would happen irrigardless of the type of ink used. Could I spray such an object with some kind of coating? If so, what kind? How many coats? I understand that any answer is speculative, but I have no idea about this stuff, so. Epoxy or a simpler resin, that's about it. Or put a piece of clear packaging tape over it. If you haven't done anything with epoxies practicing on something unimportant is probably a good idea.
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May 3, 2013 22:35
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NESguerilla posted:I have really been wanting to do some mixed media stuff incorporating photo transfer (most likely on wood/board, I don't care to work on canvas much) and have had mostly bad results. I've tried gel medium, which makes a nice image, but is pretty hard to work on top of/get's destroyed or poorly transferred really easily, plus getting all of the paper off is insanely tedious. I have also tried blender markers, which are much easier and more workable, but create much crappier images and end up being insanely expensive really quick. Is there a better way to do this or should I just give up on the idea of mixing ink and photo transfers ? I was into this for a hot minute, this is what I learned. You can use acetone or any cheap hardware store solvent, some are more toxic than others... I used to just brush it on with a cheap, natural fiber brush and then apply pressure to the back of the paper. Though if youre trying to do it straght off photos you might get mixed results, you might have better results scanning your original and printing high quality color laser onto regular paper, as it transfers much more easily. We have a really old school workhorse laser printer at my work, as well as a really new fancy ($100k plus) copier/printer that does great color reproduction, I have had interesting results with both. The old one transfers b&w images a lot crisper, the color one seems to bond with the paper better so the transfers arent as clean, which might be fine depending on what you want to do. Gel medium is nice but it gets expensive, I have a hard time justifying the price of good acrylics when I'm just loving around. I have noticed a big difference between the cheap dick-blick type acrylics and golden/speedball/etc. With solvents you want to wear a respirator, gloves, and especially eye protection. People often forget eye protection but a lot gets in through your eyes and it will gently caress with you over time. There are also nontoxic solvents, though they tend to be more expensive than what you can get at the hardware store, you may get interesting results you like better. If you dont care about dying before you're 40 you might also enjoy finishing them off with resin. Resin is loving awesome, but I stopped using it because its so nasty to work with.
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Jun 27, 2013 18:00
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Shnooks posted:Ummm so apparently I applied to a show a couple of months ago, got accepted, and can't afford to pay for the registration fee and to ship my work. NESguerilla posted:If they are charging you a registration fee I wouldn't even bother because that's bullshit. Yes... scam. Stay away. Rule of thumb is you pay shipping to, they pay shipping from. Most decent shows have some kind of negligible ($10-20) app fee to keep every random person from submitting work.
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Aug 13, 2013 00:18
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Actually they make solvent based acrylic markers that work really well. There are a ton, people use them for tagging. Moltow is a good brand but any graff/paint shop will have 4 or 5 brands you can try. I'm definitely going to use the word "parlous" next time I update my online dating profile. Holy poo poo.
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May 2, 2014 23:15
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titanium posted:So this site is using a photo I took without my permission, what do I do to get compensated for it? It's the background one they over sized, I'm guessing they took it off my tumblr page. I'd get a printout of the website notarized and then just find out who you need to send the invoices to - one for prior unauthorized use up to this point (more expensive) and one for use in the future (cheaper).
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May 19, 2014 22:26
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signalnoise posted:Can someone give me a quick breakdown comparing Montana Gold to Montana Black to Montana White spraypaints? I'm painting plastic models with them. I have tried Gold so far and it's been pretty cool, doesn't hide too much detail, but Black is cheaper. I want to make sure I am not obscuring detail, and Black's description says it puts out more paint over the same amount of time. Do I need to just keep using Gold? Can I use white? spray paint is basically just acrylic paint and a cheap synthetic glue like superglue suspended in a petroleum based solvent the only real difference is the amount of pigment you purchase, the rest is basically just marketing - if you want to get really anal about paint you should purchase a cheap airbrush and get some high quality acrylics - less toxic, more bang for your buck, better color control, better quality especially if you're doing something small like models your lack of control of the paint can is much more likely to give you variation in results than the differences in brand label on one of the more premium brands like montana, spanish montana, moltow, etc... the whole branding/graffiti lifestyle thing spray paint companies do is really retarded, serving a retarded demographic with retarded products for retarded purposes - totally not a street art hater here, I love it, just dont buy into any of the hype
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Oct 24, 2014 20:58
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poeticoddity posted:Hopefully I didn't just miss it like a colossal idiot, but is there somewhere in CC or DIY & Hobbies to ask questions about and get feedback regarding jewelry? All I've been able to find is an A/T thread that doesn't look like what I'm looking for. you would probably have better luck getting feedback at a community center or college that offers jewelry classes, if you're looking to grow really this place is mostly creative writing and digital art type stuff, the people that get into the hands on are advanced hobbyists, I rarely/never see posts in the realm of "craft" that look like anyone on the level of the more serious artists I know... once in awhile a more advanced undergrad or something like that - it depends, of course, on what you're looking for
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Oct 27, 2014 21:21
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signalnoise posted:Can you give me some suggestions for high quality airbrush paints that have really vivid colors like some of the "graffiti" spraypaints have? I mean, I have an airbrush, I have the whole Minitaire line, some Vallejo Model Air metallics, and some Reaper stuff (which I don't like airbrushing with because gently caress thinning). None of them come out with the brightness that I see with the spraypaint. Should I just not be looking at miniatures paints, and look more into like... Createx I guess has some flourescents. Golden acrylics make a shitload of paint. I dont know, that and speedball is what most people I know use. I'd try experimenting with a base coat of gesso/primer near your color and some of colors they offer. I havent had bad luck with them. Or just stick with spraypaint if it works for you... all that stuff gets expensive pretty quick.
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Oct 29, 2014 00:29
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signalnoise posted:I think I came up with my solution. I am just going to buy 100% cyan, magenta, yellow, and black paints, and use photoshop to extract the CMYK percentages of whatever color I want to use and mix it myself. It'll probably be a huge pain in the rear end but better than decanting spraypaint. Thank you for your advice though! yes, its a pain in the rear end
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Oct 29, 2014 21:06
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neonnoodle posted:You can get acrylic gel media that are flexible and carveable after they set. They can be colored with acrylic paint and layered infinitely. Seriously don't go messing with wax when space age polymers exist to do just this with less frustration. talking in broad strokes, I personally think encaustic looks a lot better - I can spot acrylic work a mile away even when it uses fancy mediums to mimic other kinds of work I know it's personal preference but I'm definitely not unique, and on the process side I know a few artists who are really attached to the encaustic process for lots of legit reasons that "space age polymers" simply are not - so its completely subjective
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Nov 13, 2014 22:09
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