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alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Speaking of Photoshop and Lightroom, has anyone encountered a weird bug where the lens distortion correction from Lightroom doesn't carry over to Photoshop?

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alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Anti-Derivative posted:

most of the tutorials here are for photoshop.

Where does aperture come into play in respect to workflow?
I'd put Aperture where I'd use Lightroom. Pretty much before Photoshop. I just do some cropping and rotation if needed, adjust white balance, exposure, fill light, blacks, etc until it looks the way I envisioned it. If that's enough then I export it otherwise I transfer it to PS for more editing with layers and masks.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Medpak posted:

For shoots that I know will only ever exist as JPGs I just shoot as JPGs. If I thought there was a reason to shoot in RAW, that's what I keep.

I also organize LR by just laying out the FS in my 'camera' folder by year and then event, sometimes the event has a date, depends on the event. Each event folder is zipped and uploaded to S3 for backup as well. The current years folder of pictures are locally on my macbook, all previous years live on my NAS which is mounted and available to the macbook/LR.

Would be interested to see how others manage their photo collections as well.
I will always shoot RAW but if it was something that might not be so important or that I don't ever plan to print (large) then I would probably shoot it in sRAW1 or even sRAW2 so as to save space.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

tijag posted:

Everything I do in Lightroom looks substantially different when I look at it in Chrome later.

Usually much darker.

I hate it.
Tell me about it. Chrome throws a light magenta tint on all my photos that look correct in Lightroom. :mad:

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

I'm using a Macbook Pro as well

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Martytoof posted:

Is the charcoal user interface colour a few feature or is this something I can do in CS5/5.1?
It's a new feature.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

bassguitarhero posted:

Anyway, I switched from my Samsung Syncmaster 2494 to a 20" Apple Cinema Display and I could see how much darker the photos were.
The problem with glossy displays like the ACD is that they give an overly strong punch to color and brightness, which doesn't always translate to what other people see on their matte screens or even on prints.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Gravitom posted:

Monitor bragging is the new lens bragging. Actually I could totally see Canon coming out with L glass monitors and people buying them in droves. Untapped market here.

Sorry I only buy monitors with the Zeiss T* coating on the screen.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

William T. Hornaday posted:

Through stupidity and lack of foresight, I've once again screwed up and worked myself into a corner. Help me get out of it, Dorkroom.

I did a bunch of editting in Photoshop that I'm [surprisingly] really, really happy with. Unfortunately, I did it on a very cropped down version of the photo and I now want an uncropped version of it with all the fantastic edits. I was working on it as a smart object in Photoshop and so resetting the crop isn't all that difficult, but I did a lot of the editting with masks and now none of which matches up where it's supposed to. Is there a relatively easy way to have the overall image cropping to carry over the the mask layers so that everything still lines up?

Perhaps try resizing a copy of the image with masks to the original size, then copy over the mask layers to the original photo?

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

bung posted:

I have a question about my workflow. I typically only use LR with very infrequent edits in PS. Since I have gotten the MB Air I want to upgrade all of my apps (currently running LR2, CS3). Considering that I use PS so infrequently, could I get get by with the latest version of PS Elements? Or is it too much of a "lite" version to be practical? I just ordered the student edition of LR4 for $33 and can't wait to see how much better it is than LR2.

From this article, it would seem that all you need is Elements: http://www.mattk.com/2012/09/26/why-photoshop-elements-11-is-the-best-version-of-elements-yet/

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

rio posted:

I wonder if great film photographers burn through a ton of film with only a few keepers or if they just shoot more discriminately. It takes me a while to go through a roll of film but I am ridiculously shutter happy with my digital. Yesterday was a good example - I knew the shot I wanted and I'm sure if I had my film camera I would have taken maybe five different shots, but instead I come home with 95 pictures of four or five different ideas shot at slightly different angles, or panned slightly differently etc. I would love to keep that film mindset all the time but it is just too easy to mash that shutter button and say to myself "I know I will get something useable even if it is luck durr".

Don't wonder anymore, just get the Magnum Contact Sheets and you'll see that the editing begins once you lift the viewfinder to your eye. The more you shoot and edit, the less you'll just shoot and the more you'll think before pressing the trigger, whether you're using film or digital.

The discipline doesn't change with the medium. But as you'll see in the Magnum Contact Sheets, once you've identified a great/potential scene or subject, feel free to shoot as many frames or shots as you think it will capture what you want. Elliot Erwitt once shot a whole roll of film just to get the 1 shot he wanted.

But of course, besides that, like aliencowboy said, even if you have like 36 separate decent shots, you will probably only pick the best 1-2 photos to showcase.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

nubdestoryer posted:

I'm going to have to get photoshop. I miss being able to customise my view. Lightroom wouldn't even let me zoom while cropping, or darken the cropped area. I don't get how such useful options can be in photoshop yet left out of lightroom.

Probably so that you'll buy Photoshop, or even both.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Yeah if LR just doesn't work for you, then stick to Bridge. If the stuff in the quote below doesn't matter to you, there might be no reason to switch.

Taking a quote from here:

quote:

The advantages of one over the other do depend on how you want to do your tagging and your personal preferences about how you work the fastest.

Some points in favor of Lightroom are the extensive keywording options that it has over Bridge. In Bridge, tagging is mostly about typing and clicking check boxes. This is fine if your volume is low, but as you need to tag more images the limits of Bridge start to get tedious and slow, especially the lack of keyboard shortcuts for keywording as far as I know.

Lightroom gives you more flexibility, especially if you like to use the keyboard instead of the mouse. Lightroom doesn't just have a keyword list and a place for you to type them in. It also lists Recent Keywords and provides keyboard shortcuts for them, it has the Metadata Painter (so you can tag by clicking images) and its keyboard shortcut, drag-and-drop keywording, Keyword Suggestions, Keyword Sets, and other ways that are totally missing in Bridge. I think you can keyword large numbers of images a lot faster in Lightroom, especially when various images need different combinations of keywords. Also, if location metadata is important, Bridge isn't of much help, while the Map module in Lightroom does help tag and find images by location.

While Bridge uses the Camera Raw database (I think it might be the Camera Raw cache, actually, which is potentially less permanent than the Lightroom database) it isn't at the same level as the Lightroom database. For example, you can't use Bridge to store any information about images on offline volumes, while the Lightroom database can remember metadata, previews and paths to offline images.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Subjunctivitis posted:

What does this mean? Is the poster saying Lightroom automatically picks up the location of images when, say, I plug in an external drive containing the images but in Bridge I'll have to sort through the drive to pick it out?

I've not used Bridge but you can store most of your library on external hard drives with Lightroom and you can even shift the data all around as long as you maintain the file structure.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Ferris Bueller posted:

I always copied the original image into another layer and then applied the unsharp mask, then played around with the opacity until it looked right, and masked out any out of focus areas so they didn't look all weird. This okay or am I doing something drastically wrong?

It's about the same thing, except the high pass method is less work to do since you won't really have to do the masking.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

bolind posted:

I'm looking for some way to mark a photo as "finished" or "final" in LR4. Doesn't have to lock for further editing. I just find myself going back and forth over a full vacation's pictures, and sorta forgetting which ones I'm done with, which ones could use more work, and which ones are unprocessed. Right now I use quick collection, but, yeah... Any ideas?

Additionally, is there an easy way to clone/heal out something linear, like a hair? I find I have to do a million little circles, and there must be a better way.

There are many ways to flag a photo in LR. The easiest is just to press "P" for a pick or in your case, a finished photo. Alternatively there are 5 stars and 5 colours for you to sort/rank your photos as well. Then you can just filter your photos accordingly.

As for the hair problem, I usually just bring it into Photoshop to fix in an instant. Trying to use LR to do it is an exercise in frustration.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Question: When do you guys do your sharpening? After resizing to output size?

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Reichstag posted:

Always sharpen at output resolution.

Hmm ok, that is what I'm doing now so that's good to know.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Wyeth posted:

I find my digital images look less 'digital' if I sharpen using a really high quality method at full resolution BEFORE resizing, it's just a preference thing. There's no fast rule, whatever look you like best.

I guess indeed it's something to try and see which method give the final output I like the most.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Helicity posted:

Most of my work is landscape with clouds and empty fields in sometimes difficult lightning, and I also have a photojournalistic constraint on time allowed due to the subject nature (my avatar). I'm constantly fighting underexposed ground and shadow noise.

I'm getting to the point where Lightroom doesn't seem to cut it for doing post, and I think the direction I want to start going is masks and layers for greater control. LR seems to have some concept of this, but it's really hard to be precise with it - correct me if I'm wrong. Can I stick with CS2 for free, or can I use the latest Elements? I see neither of those have content aware fill, and I was thinking I could just load up Gimp (ugh) if I ever needed that functionality. Are there other pieces of functionality that I'd really be missing from CS5/CS6?

Yeah that's what I thought too until I discovered the Auto Mask function in the Adjustment Brush tool - it really helps to make your masking in LR more precise. Each brush pin can also be considered as a "layer" but the implementation is not as good as Photoshop.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Bob Mundon posted:

A thousand thank yous. Now to only be able to have it do this for everything from the get go.

It can be done, you just have to make the setting as the default profile for your camera in the LR Develop settings. You can google for the steps.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

dukeku posted:

I'd love to see a side-by-side comparison of the actual films vs. VSCO'd shots.

I did just that, to satisfy my curiosity.

Provia 100F vs RX1 with VSCO filter for Provia 100F.


Test Test by alkanphel, on Flickr

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

404notfound posted:

drat, what's with that weird outline on the chairs and the bike frame? Was it like that before applying VSCO? Also, are you using the Sony-specific set of filters?

Ok I investigated and it seems to be the result of some overly aggressive CA removal which was removing the red edges. Here's the version without that CA removal:

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alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

East Lake posted:

Not bad. RX1 looks a bit too saturated and the green foliage looks a bit more blue with Provia? Looking at this through wacky f.lux colors so I might be off a bit.

Sort of, the VSCO one makes the colours darker and more saturated, the foliage and the shadows are more warmer.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

At this point I only really need Photoshop for curves and layers, something that LR still can't really handle. But the need to use such tools has dropped a lot as I learned more about what LR can do. What I do commonly use PS for is resizing and sharpening, but that can actually be done in LR as well.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Chroisman posted:

I just started processing photos for the first time in my life two days ago, and I got Lightroom 5 to do it. My main question right now is that it seems like a lot of you use both Photoshop and Lightroom together to fix up your photos, so is it worth getting Photoshop as well at this point in time, for me?

One big advantage Photoshop has over Lightroom is that ability to use adjustment layers and masks. I do most of the adjustments in LR too but once in a while you need to bring the photo into PS for fine-grain adjustments. Also, the content aware healing tool is way better than LR. But anyway, if you're asking whether you need Photoshop or not, then you probably don't need it...yet.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

The VSCO 04 slide film pack is decently close to real slide film but still the difference is obvious. I'd say the colours are fairly accurate but the luminosity is not the same, probably for the reasons given about the response curve. I actually shot the same scenes on digital and slide film to compare for myself.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Yeah I don't really bother about matching digital to slide but it is an interesting exercise to try out. Here are the 2 photos, one on slide and the other digital. I tweaked the slide one first to my liking then applied the VSCO preset on the digital one then tweaked a bit as well. (Image hosted by SA isn't showing for me so I hosted it on Imgur)



Baron Dirigible posted:

I don't know if this falls under the scope of this thread or if the film / scanner thread would be better, but do you mind sharing your workflow for processing slide film? I get that it has naturally dark shadows and it's very temperamental in terms of exposure, but there's such a massive difference between how the slide looks against the light, and how the scanned version looks on my monitor, that I wonder if I'm not missing something.

I think that's some of the magic of slides, what you see on a lightbox can't really be captured by a scanner, though a good scanner like the Nikon CS9000 or even a drum scanner will really deliver on the dynamic range, the look is still different. And there's not even much workflow to processing slide film, it's just some minor tweaking of shadows and contrast to taste.

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alkanphel fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Feb 26, 2014

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Huxley posted:

I would say only buy Photoshop if you have a very clear idea of what you want to accomplish with it. Photoshop is not really great for little touches. It's very good for cloning out ugly or empty spots or photo merging.

If you have access to it already, then getting acquainted with all the things it can do is absolutely a great idea. What kinds of things do you think are wrong with your pictures that Photoshop would fix?

Actually I find Photoshop better for the little touches and fine-tuning of the image that Lightroom can't do, especially when using curves and layer masks. Or other complex things like color correction or proper content-aware healing. That said, for the digital images I work on, 80% of them can be pretty much finished in LR and only 20% need to be fixed in PS. LR5 is really quite a powerful, compared to like LR2 or 3.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Verman posted:

Honestly I don't even mess with Lightroom. I already have the entire creative cloud as a designer so any photo work is done with Photoshop and everyone understands you can apply a camera raw adjustment layer to non raw images right? That essentially makes quick little adjustments super easy. Unfortunately it just takes a step or two in order to get there.

I learned to do all of my digital editing and retouching in Photoshop first so I know how to make it quick and it's way more powerful than most people need. Also if I need to do something major I don't like having to go to another program.

The other main advantage of Lightroom is that it is a great photo management tool as well, with tagging and smart collections and filtering. I don't really have an issue with using Photoshop from LR since the process is relatively fuss-free both ways. Also, it's easier to manage and edit huge amounts of photos in LR than PS, at least in my experience.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Soulex posted:

What's the overall consensus between lightroom and aperture? I currently use Aperture, and don't do a whole lot of processing to my photos (minor stuff like crop, balance, etc) and I really want to get the best out of my pictures.

I think you'll find that most people use Lightroom over Aperture. Though if you don't do much processing, I'm not sure if there would be a significant difference between them for your needs.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Phanatic posted:

At home I have a computer. It has Lightroom on it. I import stuff to it and edit it.


I'm on extended work travel. I have a laptop. It has Lightroom on it. I've imported stuff to it and edited it.


When I get back home, how can I merge the stuff I'm imported and edited on the laptop into my existing catalog on my desktop? I can obviously just import the raw files off the SD cards again, but if I do that I'm losing the edits I've made in the meantime.

Take a look here: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1356290

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

FistLips posted:

Second I have a workflow question:
I have two computers that I edit on - a brand new Macbook Pro, and an older iMac. Both have SSDs in them, around 250 GB. What I'm looking for is the best way to import pictures into my Lightroom catalog from my camera, choose/rate pictures and edit the ones I want to keep - this is the part I know how to do. But I would then like to transfer the edited pictures to an external HDD with a bit more space so I don't hog the SSDs where space is at a premium.
What is the best way to do this? Make a new catalog for that larger drive? Can lightroom automatically transfer stuff when it is moved to a different library? It would be nice if I could see the files still and edit them if needed without having to transfer them back to the SSD. Any ideas?

You can transfer the photos to the external HDD, then (assuming you are using LR5) generate Smart Previews to work on your SSDs. They will sync the edits when you reconnect the external HDD. If the external HDD is always going to be connected, you can just edit off the external HDD cos most of the edits will be done to the catalog, not to the files.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

This might be useful for some, based on the recent talk here: http://petapixel.com/2015/02/09/affinity-photo-new-pro-photoshop-alternative-mac-users-get-free/

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Yeah if it's just a couple of adjustments then the LR brushes are great for that but curve layers in PS just give so much more control and precision.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Picnic Princess posted:

I'm really confused about something right now. I have Photoshop CS6, and for some reason it's been tinting all of my photos weird. The photos don't have that hue in any other program, and I can process it in such a way that it looks like how it does in other programs, but then if I try to upload it anywhere it looks terrible again.



A screenshot of how the above image looks in the folder:



Here's a comparison. Photoshop looks the worst.



The folder view is closest to real life, and was actually not far off. I don't know why the other programs are showing it so strange.

I've never encountered this before. Previously, photoshop would just be a bit desaturated. That was fine, didn't care. I thought maybe I changed the settings in Photoshop and my laptop to something weird by accident, but I put everything back to default and nothing has changed. Any ideas on what to do?

You might have set something to AdobeRGB or ProPhotoRGB when importing/exporting the photos.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

It's easier to imagine LR 6 and LR CC as 2 separate products, each getting their own line of updates. It's pretty obvious Adobe hopes to wean most people off LR 6 so that they can eventually kill it off and have everyone on LR CC, so it's no surprise that LR 6 only gets the critical updates like camera/lens support and a couple of new features.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

Haggins posted:

What's the best way to soften skin? I know people with higher volume will use things like frequency separation and portraiture, but I would like to do it by hand for now. Mostly to develop the skill before I rely on automation. I know high end retouchers will just use dodge and burn for like 2 days, but that's a little extreme for me.

I've been playing with the soften skin brush in LR, which has been working pretty well, however, I just wanted to know if there is something else I should be doing.

Use Photoshop, clean up skin first to the best of your ability, then create blur layers and brush them in with appropriate levels of opacity. There are probably better ways but this works for me. Dodge & burn is more for contouring the face though.

alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

If you have Lightroom I don't even know why you would even think of using OSX Photos for anything.

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alkanphel
Mar 24, 2004

GobiasIndustries posted:

Well like I mentioned, my primary photo usage has shifted; I've moved closer to home so there are lots of family gatherings, quick social events and whatnot where speed is more important than drilling down to precise development tools. So as far as "anything" goes, there are plenty of uses for having my photos readily available on all of my devices, especially those that a pretty large segment of the public use! But when I do want to do something semi or real professionally, I'd like to be able to do that too which is where Lightroom comes in.

All my friends who do this (for speed) just setup the camera to produce the JPGs they want and share direct from the camera to their phone for Instagram/FB. They don't even bother with LR or Photos even anymore.

You could shoot both JPG and RAW, share the JPGs instantly and use the RAWs with LR for anything else that doesn't require instant sharing.

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