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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!


I did this, again. So sick of it. Tfw you live close to good trails and good dunes.
I got an ok changing stand, but I'm very clumsy and probably dumb about it as I stand a very good chance to wreck a tube 50% of the time putting on a tire.
I've got a very local shop now that does these for only $25/each but I really just need to cough up the money for an extra set of rims for these three bikes.
The old KTM runs an 18" currently but I've seen quite a few 19" for sale. So these... Go faster? Gear down a little?

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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I cleaned air filters on three dirt bikes and adjusted the Monkey chain, again. It's at least every 250-300 miles and after 5k miles you'd think the chain would be done stretching. Rollers wearing out? Idk. I've got a new OEM one ready to go. Probably should get the sprockets ordered.
It's getting high time for new tires, too. Unfortunately the most popular ones are out of stock everywhere.

Waiting on a clutch cover gasket, then it's time to replace the clutch in my kid's KLX140. One year of multiple kids learning to use a clutch on this bike has taken its toll. I drained the oil already and it has some interesting looking particles in it. Clutch I hope.
It just stopped moving on the beach last weekend. The clutch had the engagement of a weed whacker spool

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jun 22, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Invalido posted:

Carbureted engines smell bad unless running on alkylate fuel IMHO

Add some castor-based oil and then the smell is right :colbert:

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Not lowly pump gas. Race gas + castor oil

I smell it any time I'm in the dunes. Old 2T race quads all chromed out and burning money. Great smell

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
100LL is a cheap way to pay for that crazy advance and compression. But it doesn't quite have the same kick as oxygenated race fuel

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Like a moron, I broke one of the clutch pressure plate bolt fingers. :(

Tbf it looks like it was made of swiss cheese.
Ordered some aftermarket replacement off eBay. I hope it works

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I fixed the KLX 140 clutch and confirmed it does wheelies in first again.
Also it was air filter cleaning day

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
New Michelin City Grips on the Monkey. Local guy did mount and balance for $30/wheel.



TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

Is that a see-through timing cover? Lmfao

Yeah I bought it with a bunch of aftermarket stuff already installed and that was one of them.
Dealer mechanic bought the bike new and installed all this. He put all of 251 miles in it before putting it back in the showroom waiting for me to stop by.

Some of what he added was good (Yoshi exhaust, the seat, tail tidy, and the fuel/ignition controller) but a lot of it was utter trash.
I figured if a dealer tech installed it's alright.


Go ahead, get all your laughing out of the way lol


For example......
Bar end mirrors - trash
Headlight grill - trash
White bulbs in 3 turn signals. loving why
Aftermarket cam - so much trash that it ended up lunching the entire engine at 3600 miles. It's a cheap cam with extreme timings that are milled from a stocker. But you need longer stem valves at that point. Exhaust valve stem broke in half at 60 mph.
Front sprocket - geared down from stock, trash.

The lesson here is that all POs are trash fires and should not be trusted.

After I rebuilt the engine I added a couple of functional things: dad screen and a hard case.
I also put the gearing back to stock and installed stock mirrors.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 00:15 on Jul 13, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I figured wrong

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I like the City Grips I put on the Monkey. Very smooth, nice grip.
It is frustrating, however, that they are smaller than OEM and now my speedo reads 5.6% over. I could fix it with a speedo reprogram. I really don't like that it brings my RPMs in 4th to near redline, which I'd like to avoid.
A tooth on the front sprocket is good for 7%. I might try to find a slightly smaller rear sprocket instead. It's time for a new chain, anyways.

Strips! (Pegs drag at this point)

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
At 5800 miles, it was a little past time to change out the chain on the Monkey. The previous owner/Honda shop tech took the OEM chain off at zero miles (or didn't install it if that's part of dealer prep). He put a nice golden colored chain on and it looked nice for over a year. But the adjusters are now at the end of their travel and the chain is too slack.
The PO kindly supplied the OEM chain in a box when I bought the bike.
I recently had new tires installed and they are slightly smaller than the OEMs so my speedometer has been off. So I bought a new, smaller rear sprocket. It looks horrible but it's the only one I could find that's smaller than OEM.
The front had only ~2000 miles on it, but I had a new stock one so on it went.



TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Indicated speed is closer to actual now, but still off. But RPMs in 4th are under control now, so mission accomplished I guess

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
No, the chains on Groms and Monkeys are 420 non -oring. The one I just took off was a DID brand.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Jul 25, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

In an enclosed case, lubed every day, when hauling mail on a ct110, those chains are good for 2-3000km. I was replacing them once a month.

That's pretty terrible. When I was cycling more, I got at least 3000km out of SRAM 11spd chains, usually more like 5000km going by the stretch indicator.
Cassettes and the front ring would get about twice that life.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

knox_harrington posted:

Is there a way to put a proper chain on it?

You can buy 420 oring chains that fit and there are some 428 conversion kits.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I get fork seal leaks all the goddamm time on the old KTM. I've replaced them twice, I've tried the seal mate* - it continues to leak.
The common factor is me working on these forks and that's probably where my issue is.
I ride in sand dunes a lot and maybe that's a contributing factor but: my two other bikes that see equal time and abuse in the sand don't have this problem. I've also never worked on their fork seals.

*Seal mate: I can get it past the dust seal but not fully past the actual seal.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

How hosed are your bushes?

The copper bushings are new. The tubes look and feel fine. It's not a continuous leak.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Thanks, I hadn't seen this before. I'll give it another try.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Yeah it didn't seem to be too difficult of a job. I've done it a couple of times now and even bought the couple of special tools required (are they?) and also have the WP manual for that fork.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Finger Prince posted:

A modern, well built, undamaged, not worn to poo poo hydraulic damper is basically a closed system, and there's no real reason to change the oil at regular intervals. That's why they don't put an interval in the service manual. How often do you change the oil in the dampers on your car?
The schedule is basically if your dampening has gone to poo poo, something is broken, so fix that and then replace the fluid or replace the forks if that's what's broken.

All my dirt bikes have service intervals for the fork oil listed in their manuals

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Mine gets filled with jelly beans*. All 35L of it.


Also sometimes a backpack with my work stuff

*JellyBelly or Starburst only, GTFO with anything else

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Then repeat this process every 15 seconds for the duration of the ride

This is the correct method

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Jazzzzz posted:

I'm guessing the red threadlocker the Italian factories use isn't the same as what we would refer to as red loctite, e.g. it needs heat to remove. drat near every screw on the Multi had red threadlocker on it and I didn't have to take a soldering iron to them to break them loose.

This hasn't been my experience working with the (very overpriced) Red Loctite over the years.
Sometimes you'll have to torch a bolt, sure. But not on the regular.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I just gently wipe down the Monkey with a microfiber cloth and some very light soap solution every couple of days.

The dirt bikes get lovingly pressure washed with saltwater at the dunes/beach

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Where does the incomprehensible pseudo language come in play in California though

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I think he's explaining the current wrong, unless I misheard. From what I can see: When centered, the ring rides on what appears to be an insulator. No current is flowing in this state.
Once it slips off the insulator, it makes contact with the curved bus bar.
When the ring hits the two raised copper bits, contact is made between bus bar 1 and 2. Current flows.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I knew it! Gimme back my carbs, points, and springer forks like God intended!!!

2/5 bikes in my garage have carbs. One is leaking fork oil and the other is missing a chain. Coincidence?

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Oct 24, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
There was at least one American-made mechanical injection system for PWC 2-stroke race engines, sometime in the 90's.
IIRC it was complete garbage because it could not sense engine load and therefore the only input to fuel delivery was crank speed, transferred via nylon gears prone to breaking.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I typically got 2-3k miles on SRAM chains and about 10k miles out of Ultegra cassettes.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Dang, I went 20k (7 years) miles on my last road bike without ever changing any bearings. Only cables, chains, cassettes, rings.
Desert environment of Eastern Washington.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I installed heated grips on my VStrom. I still have oil changes in five bikes ahead.

Edit: one oil change down!

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 03:13 on Nov 21, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Slather it in cosmoline and wrap it in wax paper

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
The port timing requiring the power valves is baked into the top end - so if he's swapping that out completely, power should be fine if not as broad.
I suppose the transmission gearing ratios could still foul things up.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Don't forget to get gas appropriate for that high compression.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I mean, it's possible they didn't actually jam reeds in there and just used the intake manifold? Still a loving waste, you can just leave the cage out and use shorter bolts, WTF!
Anyway, quick thinking on KTM's part. One more intake valve than the competition!

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
KTM addressing leaky valve seals?

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I dumped another 4.5 gallons of gas into mine and rode to work two days last week. Next week looking good too.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
idk maybe I'm getting older but I am coming to really appreciate a stock bike where everything just works and fits together.

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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
After I did a full teardown on my Monkey and put it back together, everything smoked for a bit. The exhaust seal needed time to seat/gunk up, various assembly lubes needed to burn off.

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