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Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I replaced my tires last weekend. It's pathetic how sore I was the next day. I haven't had any proper exercise since the gyms closed. Apparently walking your dog and riding a bicycle isn't much exercise afterall.

I was a little nervous because I don't have high confidence in my mechanical ability, and I have read new tires are slippery to boot. I rode around 200mi the day after, and no drama.

Here I took this pic.



I also learned my rear caliper is not actually bolted to anything but instead is pinched between the swing arm and wheel collar, and is prevented from spinning by a groove it slots into. I guess that actually makes sense so the caliper slides with the wheel/axle as you adjust the chain and now I'm not sure any rear calipers are bolted like I assumed they were!

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Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

I hope you used lots of bearing grease, no copper grease, and protip while we're here: get a file and chamfer your lower pad edges, it'll make taking the wheel/brakes on and off a million times easier!

I didn't :ohdear: I followed the directions in my service manual, which didn't state to grease anything, which I was surprised by. Or is it one of those "duh dude" things because it's metal-on-metal? Honda seems pretty specific on what to grease with what from what I've seen in here so far, but obviously I know nothing.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I'll meet you at that Safeway but only if we go up and over Mount Hamilton

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

AnnoyBot posted:

I'm down. Difficult for me to get a whole day for a ride like that on a weekend, though. I become a single dad around 3pm on most Fridays, which is why I spend weekends with this poo poo and not riding more. I can do Mt Umunhum pretty easy.

You can email me at lipbalmdeath at gmail and we can figure something out :hehe:

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Why did you switch from Pirelli to Michelin? Just to try something different?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Sagebrush posted:

Lever action

wtf

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005


OK that's badass actually. I had a lever action .22 as a child (:911:) and I would so prefer a bolt action in every other scenario.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

I can only assume toe rag is a 13yo because the concept of an adult who has never seen that movie is...it's just unspeakable.
I was probably 13 the last (only?) time I saw it :o: I don't remember much

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

You run slicks without warmers?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

:nice:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iGqXhAG0ys

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

https://youtu.be/ClJf-QtFUZA

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

MomJeans420 posted:

The owner paid $400k to move it but is turning it into a multi-unit rental?

In addition to what sagebrush said, SF also has a pretty rich architectural history which was largely destroyed in 1906. Anything that exists from then will likely be marked for preservation by the city. Looks like this house got moved a couple blocks away onto another lot the owner has (after they moved that building to make some room), and they’re going to build an 8-story 48-unit building in its place. So 400k is chump change in this scenario. Housing in SF is even more hosed up than the rest of CA. ~63% of the city is renting so ownership is super consolidated and prop 13 is on a massive feedback loop.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I forgot his username, (elector nerdlinger?) but the Aussie guy with a DR650 has a matte black one as well. It definitely looks so much better. The translucent ones are gross.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

And to think this all started because you were worried about scratching some plastics :cheeky:

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

some kinda jackal posted:

I’m just going to drop this here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G8AnEd9c-f8

Literally cannot thank everyone who put up with my inane questions over the past few months. I am very certain I would not have had the balls to do this without everyone’s help.

What's all the smoke coming off of it? Just grease burning off the header or something?

I changed my oil, oil filter, brake pads, brake fluid. My question: the service manual states to replace the caliper mounting bolts with new bolts. Is this actually necessary or just Honda being overly cautious? The bolts are referred to as "pre-coated (ALOC) bolts" -- I've bought one of these before, and it appears to just be a bolt with some loctite already applied. Or are they actually single-use bolts, and I need to replace it with a "normal" bolt if I want to reuse it?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Sagebrush posted:

Re.. the caliper bolts, I would double check with slavvy, but I don't think there's any problem reusing the bolts as long as they're clean and intact. Clean them off and put new loctite on them, of course, but it's not like the bolt itself is single use.

Slavvy posted:

Yeah that's Honda being psychotic and thinking a mechanic can't possibly replicate their proprietary thread lock coating or some dumb poo poo, just slam them back in with some blue loctite.

:discourse:

That's what I thought, but wanted to double check. I see people at the track take their calipers off and on no big deal, but thought there may be something they know that I don't.

Sagebrush posted:

You can't just turn the outside part by hand? Or at least by hand with a rag?

If you tried that and it was too hard to turn, that means the last person to do it overtightened it. Filler caps get screwed on finger-tight and no more.

The slot is inverted, so you need a washer, or perhaps a shilling.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Ah, yeah I didn't notice those little finger ridges. :shobon: I would expect just the smaller piece to come out based on the way it all looks, though.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I replaced the stock footpegs on my CB300R with rear sets. I stole a cable reel stand from work and hoisted my bike up by the passenger pegs. It worked out! It felt a little sketchy because it was super wobbly, but once the weight of the bike was on it, it felt a little more planted.



I didn't think to take a before picture. I think they look all right. Not too blingy.



The pegs have 4 positions. I put them in the farthest back (67mm) and up (47mm). Seems OK just sitting on it. I'm going to go back with my boots and make sure everything feels right, then tighten it all down. Getting the rear brake light relay mounted was by far the biggest pain, then the springs.

Old pegs

Right


Left

Little bit of paint from a curb at Sonoma.

Honestly probably half of that was probably from my 2nd track day where I was just scraping everywhere. I got a lot better about avoid it, but still would scrape often enough to be annoying, hence the rear sets. Last thing to do is put on the new tires, but might just pay someone for that...

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

FBS posted:

- The swingarm will slowly slide down my rear stand until it falls off. I got lucky and it came down on the swingarm but it's going to make maintenance extra annoying til I figure out a solution.

Spools?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Oh lol I didn’t put two and two together and thought it was the MT-07, not the 919 :o:

I’ve also seen some that bolt onto the end of the swing arm depending on your chain adjustment.

Edit: here

Toe Rag fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Jun 26, 2022

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Why doesn’t Harley make bikes like this though :confused: it’s your take on an XR750 street tracker, right? Did they do it before and no one bought them?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

:hellyeah: it rules.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Doesn’t heavier oil increase the low-speed damping? Or does it only lower the speed at which you run into hydro lock? If you go to a heavier weight do you need to adjust the orifice size to match to get any intended effect?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

Yeah just put the stock oil grade in. Your wording here is a dead giveaway that you've got a ways to go with your riding and the bike is not even close to holding you back. Try to isolate the corner into individual phases of upright braking, entry, mid corner and exit. This will start you on the road to understanding what you're actually trying to do and where the bike helps you or doesn't.
Also, if you're not routinely bottoming out the fork, do you really need to make it stiffer? I have a small zip-tie around my fork for a visual gauge. As far as I know you want the fork sitting relatively deep in its stroke when entering a corner. If that zip tie is consistently at the bottom of the stroke then you can think about stiffening up (assuming you're doing everything else correctly).

Finger Prince posted:

A modern, well built, undamaged, not worn to poo poo hydraulic damper is basically a closed system, and there's no real reason to change the oil at regular intervals. That's why they don't put an interval in the service manual. How often do you change the oil in the dampers on your car?
The schedule is basically if your dampening has gone to poo poo, something is broken, so fix that and then replace the fluid or replace the forks if that's what's broken.

I think you change the oil out of a fork (or shock, if serviceable) because, after time, there are contaminants (eg metal) in the oil that can interfere with the valve shims.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

What happens if you have too much oil in your fork? You effectively bottom-out mid-stroke and crash?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

How much is too much? I've seen a guy who just filled them to the brim and it led to having no travel at all.

If the fork has 100mm of travel then I assume you need at least a 100mm air gap, but probably a little bit more. While I’m at it, how does the air gap affect the fork? Does reducing the air gap effectively increase the compression damping towards the bottom of the stroke because now the air has to compress more?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

TotalLossBrain posted:

Where does the incomprehensible pseudo language come in play in California though

Taishanese

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

That's so much better looking than the 80s style controller Oxford uses.



Maybe I'm just precious, but I don't think I could live with that.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kxq6Bp6SuSQ

Nothing wrong with a quickshifter, but you should be able to get the hang of clutchless upshifts with just a little practice.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Comically large you say??

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

Advice to anyone reading this: if you ever get a chance to ride any kind of 50cc scooter, you owe it to yourself to take your hands off the bars and see how long you can stop yourself from grabbing them again.

I posted this before but, :hmmyes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4LMFZ1HU9w

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

130 section rear with 112hp. Why are tires so wide now? Seems like anything north of 100hp is gonna have 180 section. Or is that part of why the braking on one those is not actually excellent?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

Tyre profile is still a direct trade off between straight line grip and corner speed for a given lean angle.

Do you mean section? I don't understand this, actually. I understand why, for a given speed, of two otherwise identical bikes, the one with a wider tire has to lean more, but does that necessarily make it slower? I have always assumed that liter bikes have "poor" corner speed, compared with say a 600, because they are set up for straight line speed to take make the most of their power advantage. Does having a wider tire mean you must have slower cornering, or is it just the natural result of the design choices that ended up with the wider tire in the first place?

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

you can only lean so far.

rofl this somehow did not occur to me

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Went to go for a ride on Sunday, felt a loud clunk come from the rear.



:popeye:

I last had my wheel off like 3-4 months ago and have done at least 1500 miles on it, never felt/heard anything before. I always make sure to install the caliper correctly. I may have loosened everything up and redid my chain tension/wheel alignment a couple weeks ago, and it slipped out then? I don't even know.

I needed to rebalance the rear anyway. I had CycleGear mount the tires; they didn't clean the rim and the weights have since come off :nice:

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

T Zero posted:

I'm using a six-sided socket and am turning it in the right direction. I watched a video to make sure, and noted the guy used a lot less force to get it loose than I was using. When applying as much force as I am, it starts to slip off.

I'm going to buy a new bolt and see if I can get ahold of a breaker. My worry is the threads in the engine casing may be stripped.

IME as a simpleton I find you tend to pull non laterally on the wrench when applying force. Are you pushing the socket up into the bolt with your free hand? Mine is 18lb-ft so yours should be as well, which isn’t that much.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I did pretty much the exact same thing when I changed my oil filter. I just did it by feel and it seemed fine, but I am paranoid and was heading to the track in a couple days, didn't want oil seeping out, so I thought I'd just double check it with a torque wrench set to 10lb-ft. I guess the bolts were only meant for like 8 and I could tell it didn't feel right. Luckily I could back it out before it snapped, but it was nearly there.

Going forward I think the only thing I'm going to bother torquing are axels, pinch bolts, and anything with a sealing washer. Maybe also my caliper. I don't think I did last time, and it seems OK, but maybe a good idea.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

UCS Hellmaker posted:

Utilize it to give yourself the best handy you'll ever get, then cry at how your life has gone and soon you'll lose that feeling.
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=the+stranger

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I will refer you to the OP's post history, ?.

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Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

I've never understood the tread pattern on those Pirellis. They seem like they'd just be terrible in the wet? It's my understanding tread pattern is primarily for water evacuation and then carcass flex.

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