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FYI DRZs have the worst-designed close-ratio transmission around. Great for a supermoto track or town duty, not so much for dual sport and highway. You have to pick between a low 1st w/ low 5th and high 5th and high 1st.
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Nov 23, 2009 02:08
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 18:25 |
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Phat_Albert posted:AWD Eclipse/Talon Zapcat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDAqEMXsk-4
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Dec 20, 2009 19:49
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Z3n posted:The 6th gear is one thing I really, really wish the DRZ had. The DRZ has one of the tightest gear ratios of any dual sport out there, even comparing with other 5-speeds. It's really kind of atrocious in that respect.
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Feb 26, 2010 07:08
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I was wrong, the DRZ actually has THE narrowest gear ratio of any dual sport. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=281742 3.90 Yamaha XT225 (6 speed) 19.69 3.78 Honda CRF230L (6 speed) 19.12 3.75 Suzuki DR125 (6 speed) 18.95 3.63 Kawasaki Sherpa 250 (6 speed) 18.30 3.46 Yamaha XT250 2008 (5 speed) 17.50 3.45 Yamaha TW200 (5 speed) 17.43 3.40 Husqvarna TE610 (6 speed) 17.16 3.36 Yamaha WR250R/WR250X (6 speed) 16.99 3.32 Kawasaki KLR250 (6 speed) 16.76 3.27 BMW G650X (5 speed) 16.54 3.18 KTM 530 E/XC-R (6 speed) 3.18 Husaberg FE650E (6 speed) 16.07 3.18 Honda XR650L (5 speed) 16.07 3.15 Kawasaki KLX250 (6 speed) 15.91 3.13 BMW F650GS (5 speed) 15.79 3.06 KTM 640 Adventure (5 speed) 15.44 3.04 KTM 950 (6 speed) 15.37 3.01 KTM 520 E/XC (6 speed) 15.16 2.93 Suzuki DR650 (5 speed) 14.77 2.88 KTM 690 Enduro (6 speed) 14.48 2.86 Kawasaki KLR650 (5 speed) 14.42 2.66 Honda XR650R (5 speed) 13.43 2.65 Suzuki DRZ400 (5 speed) 13.36
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Feb 26, 2010 07:14
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Fuel pump, filter, clogged injectors?
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Nov 15, 2010 03:47
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DrakeriderCa posted:Supermoto people, I'm thinking about getting a Sumo for my first real bike. Right now I'm learning on a friend's XL125, and I'll be doing my motorbike safety course sometime soon. If I have enough scratch, I'll pick up a bike this summer. I wouldn't use a CRF230 for anything except starting a large bonfire. The KLX250SF is a nice bike, but really should be a 300. My plated KLX300R was a hoot, but I can't imagine having a lot of fun with 50lbs of street crap and less power. The DRZ probably is the right choice, but I wouldn't turn down some of the older 600cc class bikes if you're willing to buy used. The XT600 is consistently $200-500 under market prices for the KLR or DR or XR 650s. It's a great bike to learn on.
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May 21, 2011 02:58
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For small-bore bikes, I'm a fan of gearing down so you hit terminal velocity in 5th (or 6th) gear right around redline and then throw massive bar end weights on to kill the vibes. Most modern engines can handle extended high-RPM running just fine.
MotoMind fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Feb 24, 2012 |
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Feb 24, 2012 21:14
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That is one very nice WR you have there.
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Feb 27, 2012 05:18
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Smaller wheels also = poor tracking in ruts and over obstacles.SaNChEzZ posted:It's all thanks to you buddy! Glad it's working out for ya. Come on up north and we'll see if you got a good one.
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Feb 27, 2012 20:25
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I don't think you can compare any 650cc thumper with a 7500rpm redline to a small-bore single with a 11500rpm redline. You can gear the KLR super high and have it lope down the highway at 75 or 80mph, but still pull stumps coming out of turns in 2nd. It's a different riding experience. The question is not whether one bike is better than the other, but whether your needs as a rider are more aligned with one bike or the other.
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Mar 12, 2012 19:42
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Gnaghi posted:Would a few upgrades fix it you think? I'm asking cause this popped up and maybe I could get him down a bit on the price. I've been looking for a good deal on a WR250x for awhile and nothing is around under 5k. A KLX250S is a fat, underpowered copy of the KLX300R. The latter pops up in plated form now and again, and they're the intermediate stage between 80s air-cooled dirt bikes and modern USD dirt bikes. I owned one and it was super-light and fun, but pretty brutish in nature and worse than the WR on the highway. You can get a 351cc kit and pumper carb for the KLX, but you may as well get a DRZ at that point unless you really really need a 6 speed transmission. Z3n posted:The problem is there aren't a lot of upgrades for them out there. Dunno if someone makes a BB kit for them or anything but by the time you get that installed you may as well have bought a DRZ. It doesn't need engine mods. If you need more power and you can't get there by gearing down and rowing the 6-speed transmission, you got the wrong bike. The suspension is modern and quite serviceable out of the box, though the rear shock is non-rebuildable. The other farkles are out there. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Mar 18, 2012 |
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Mar 18, 2012 05:40
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The WR is good for 4 reasons. 1. It has a 6-speed transmission for slow trails work as well as highway riding. 2. It has a large (350W) stator. 3. It does not need to be jetted for altitude (FI). 4. It has very long claimed valve adjustment intervals (25K). That's it. It is an excellent bike for a very specialized use, and a good bike overall. The DRZ will give you better bang for your buck. MPG is going to be in the 40s for either bike if you gear them right and romp on the throttle.
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Apr 7, 2012 19:44
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Olde Weird Tip posted:I'm definitely a WR fan, its just too bad they didnt sell more, and that Yamaha pulled them. There's a 2012 WR250R, when did they pull it?
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Apr 9, 2012 21:05
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drzrma posted:Fairly sure it's interference between the throttle tube housing and the tube itself, I guess I'll sharpie the enclosed part of the tube and see if it gets rubbed off tomorrow. Does the housing have pinch screws that snug down two halves of the housing together? If so, play around with tension on those screws.
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Apr 12, 2012 06:40
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I've found that the balance (more/less tension) on the pinch screws can make a difference. YMMV.
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Apr 12, 2012 15:45
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A stuck coast enricher circuit or air leaks can also be to blame.
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Apr 12, 2012 23:03
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The 610 is pretty solid as long as you read up on the fixes; it's a dual sport and so different from the 510, etc. There's a woodruff key issue, not sure which model years were affected.
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Apr 23, 2012 17:48
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Safety Dance posted:Test rode this here Husqvarna SM610 last night. I like it a lot. There's a similar mileage DRZ400sm at a dealership going for $6000, and all the other supermotos are either hillbillied out or $8K+ Hypermotards. I'd cross-check ADVrider. I've seen some really nice, super-farkled 610s being sold for 5-6K. The tank, uncorking, primary drive nut fix, it's a little bit to take care of and sunk cost you won't get back in resale. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 2, 2012 |
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May 2, 2012 17:48
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Jabs posted:We stopped by the cycle shop on Saturday, and she did like the fit and feel of the TW200 (Seat is 6" lower, to start with)... First of all, there is no goddamn reason to change out the wheels on a TW. The stock wheels and tires are plenty good to scrape every hard part on the bike, street or dirt. Second, I will agree that the TW200 is down on power. It is not, however, "really heavy." The TW200 is pretty much the perfect learner bike and it will go 65-70mph steady down the highway (minus headwinds and big hills) with the correct gearing. It has a Reagan-era 55mph speedo redline, but the engine RPM redline is well above that. It's not a real commute bike, and it buzzes like hell on the highway and needs ManicSalamander bar end weights to tame that, but it will get the job done. It is also the least intimidating motorcycle possible, and more fun than a barrel of monkeys. You can ride that bike like a minature pony at the county fair, or you can basically hold the throttle open ALL THE TIME and embarrass sportbikers in the corners (downhill preferable). MotoMind fucked around with this message at 06:32 on May 8, 2012 |
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May 8, 2012 06:29
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I wouldn't pay $4500 for a DRZ unless it was nearly pristine. The mods add zero value and the owner obviously has the mental capacity of a snail.
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May 9, 2012 06:09
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Gnaghi posted:My only concern, other then the fuel pump going as it is a 2008 with 8k miles, is that he replaced the sprockets. The stock rear has a rubber outlining the teeth which I'm guessing is the cush drive? The replacement sprocket doesn't have this though, shouldn't it be replaced post-haste? I don't want to have to order connecting rods for two supermotos now. No idea what the rubber is about. It's probably some crazy business used to reduce the driveby noise in EPA testing. Definitely replace that fuel pump before you do a big ride or anything. You're going to get the most out of that WR with gearing more along the lines of 14/52. The bike makes peak power very close to redline, so that kind of gearing will give you the most pull from 65 to 85mph, at which point it has nothing more to give anyway. If the vibes bother you, get some ManicSalamander bar-end weights. MotoMind fucked around with this message at 17:50 on May 30, 2012 |
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May 30, 2012 17:48
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14 up front because of a bad experience I had with chain slider wear with a 13T. The achilles heel of the WRs is wear on the underside of the chain slider just behind the pivot point. If you don't catch it in time, the chain will eat the underside of your swingarm. It seems to be tied to some magical blend of chain tension, suspension settings, and load. Mostly the last for me, since I had the bike fully loaded. I think around town 13 is fine for most people, 12 dubious except for occasional use. But still check your slider from time to time. Look carefully. One way or another the sweet spot for performance on a WR is going to be a gearing ratio around 0.27. Aggressive, yes, but I fully believe in using the whole RPM range on a 250 like the WR. The stock is 0.3 and that's dogshit.
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Jun 1, 2012 01:44
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Gullous posted:The local riders forum (pnwriders.com) threw some cones down in a parking lot and held a "skills refresher" day. On the 690 those challenging MSF-like cones made a great super moto course People have a huge misconception about riding with cones and gymkhana. It may not be fast, but the goal is to go with a quickness. It is racing, and it is not easy. I can say I was a fair match for a famous AFM racer in local competition. ADVrider has a great thread going: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788591 Figure 8 GP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPNxgRULJiA
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Jun 20, 2012 00:47
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I'd recommend you consider a Giant Loop Great Basin. They are not the easiest things to open up (3 straps and a zipper) compared with a simple roll-top or hard case, but you can usually set them up so you can remove the whole bag from the bike and carry it inside. That way you're not using tote bags or whatever to get a ton of poo poo to/from your bike at home. That said, some dedicated panniers are pretty sweet if your bike isn't dwarfed by them. I'd recommend the Ortlieb QLR2 soft panniers bolted/mounted to a rack since they flatten for lanesplitting and a bigass topcase for boots/jacket when you stop somewhere.
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Jul 13, 2012 00:02
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Gnaghi posted:It's been sitting there for a month now, mainly because I'd much rather ride my WR250x than try to rejet a carb. Joke's on you, your bike does not have a carb.
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Jul 23, 2012 05:28
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Gnaghi posted:Well I already bought the jet kit so I might as well carb it. Some guy on SMJ did it and says it ups the power quite a bit. Link? I'd be surprised if the ECU would tolerate having the FI ripped out.
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Jul 23, 2012 18:14
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SaNChEzZ posted:So, remember when my WR250 got wrecked. Do you want a WR250R for $3500? It's been through an Alaska.
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Sep 25, 2012 04:16
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JP Money posted:As someone who had a DRZ and was so-so on the power, how disappointing is the WR250x? I found one that's very clean, stock, for not a lot. It's tempting as the market for DRZ's has suddenly loving vanished here. In the span of a month there are only poo poo examples for sale. It has less power than the DRZ, and delivers it much higher. You have to wring its neck. However, it is a vastly more refined motorcycle. It feels modern while the DRZ is just warmed-over 80s tech.
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Feb 27, 2013 21:23
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I think that anyone with a sumo should know the correct technique for riding over speedbumps and speed humps: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU_yS850BDc
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Feb 27, 2013 23:39
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JP Money posted:I want to live where you live if the speedbumps are 2 feet tall. Doesn't hurt to make believe. Also yes. I wish.
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Feb 28, 2013 01:20
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I have ridden both and the DRZ400 feels like an old-school thumper. It's powerful, it's a tractor, and it carries its weight high. The WR250 feels less powerful, but more refined in all respects. The suspension is modern, the power delivery is smooth, and the ride quality and engine feel are comfortable. 26K valve check intervals.
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Apr 3, 2013 06:16
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The DRZ is maybe the better highway bike, depending on if you value low rpm's or passing power more... Debatable. The DRZ's lack of refinement takes some points away. I rode a DRZ with knobbies vs my WR250R with knobbies on the highway back to back and the DRZ had some latent headshake above 65-70. My WR250R has always be totally composed on-road, and doesn't feel terrible when you have it running at redline if you gear low, and cruises fine on stock gearing as well.
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Apr 3, 2013 19:32
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Safety Dance posted:I'm thinking snow and slush, unless the recommendation for that is cheap dirtbike or take the bus. Knobby tires and studs.
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Jul 11, 2013 05:53
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The wr250x ride quality and stability and feel on the highway are significantly better than the drz. It has less power but it feels safe and planted at all speeds. The drz was twitchy by comparison.
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Aug 27, 2013 07:17
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 18:25 |
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Shouting Melon posted:KTM 390 SM spotted! "We can likely expect to see this “Enduro” break cover next year, as a 2015 model, with a potential arrival in the United States sometime in 2025-ish." 
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Dec 26, 2013 18:34
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