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Safety Dance posted:Aren't H2 and S2 bulbs largely interchangeable? Or will the H2 bulbs not make the correct pattern? I never knew that. I'll have to look into it, but all the bulbs I saw at AutoZone were the style that has a connector on the back and screws into a housing, while the S2 bulb fits into a socket, and that socket screws into the reflector housing. I'm tempted to get something like the trailtech HID light or one of their others, but in not sure how to determine if my charging system can handle it. Does anyone know how to figure this out? Edit: \/\/\/\/\/\/ Thanks, I'll look into it! MetaJew fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 16, 2012 |
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Oct 15, 2012 19:34
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Well, the SicAss racing headlight bulb upgrade for my bike is merely rear end, and definitely not sic. I broke the first bulb trying to install it, and the second bulb failed not 15 minutes after I took it out for what was supposed to be about a 3 hour ride. Does anyone have any recommendations for a completely different headlight housing/upgrade for a 625 SMC? I'm open to all opinions. Preferably, it is bright as poo poo and has a good cutoff. Perhaps it's even HID. I've found a few sites selling various "street fighter" esque housings. It seems like the best way to go is some housing that clamps to the fork tubes. There's also the option of the trailtech headlights, but I have a suspicion that some custom bracketry would still be necessary which makes things hard to aim. In other news, I think that my valves are loose and need some adjustment. What a project [bike].
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Nov 5, 2012 02:17
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Gullous posted:I have the Trail tech X2 halogen light and it's plenty bright. I'm happy with it besides having to make a choice between street legal and the rock shield. I chose the rock shield but when I ride at night the spread is pretty harsh for smaller cars. What's the mounting and aiming like? With the way the speedo, indicator lights, and wiring harness are I'm not sure how a "universal" light will fit. Also, does the x2 cone with a relay, and how do I know if my charging system can handle it? The rock guard seems like the better choice. That sucks that it hurts the spread. Are visibility and light output still good for you?
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Nov 6, 2012 17:48
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I'm cross-posting this from the "You didn't crash..." thread. Hopefully you guys might have some suggestions on a different taillight or brighter bulb. I didn't crash, but I nearly had someone crash into me. My office is about a mile away from where I live so I typically ride my bicycle in, but I'll ride my 625 SMC in occasionally just to avoid any chance of my carb getting clogged from disuse. On my way home I was about to turn into my apartment complex from the right lane of a 3-lane feeder, when I suddenly heard tires squeeling, checked my mirrors and saw a corolla closing in on me way too fast. I gunned the throttle and drove into the exit-only driveway from my complex to get out of the way. No injuries or damage, but I could smell burning rubber from locked brakes. With that in mind, I don't think my brake light is adequate at all. The difference in brightness going from running lights to actuating the brake is next to nil. I'm wondering if I should look for some other aftermarket tail light, or if there's a brighter bulb I can put in the factory housing. The previous owner installed some sort of multi-LED bulb, but it just doesn't cut it. I'd also like to purchase some retro-reflective tape to put on my helmet. Can any of you guys point me to something that would help with visibility? I liked the look of that black 3M tape I saw that shines back white, but I'm not sure if that's the best stuff to use. My helmet is a silver RF-1000.
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Nov 28, 2012 05:00
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Could you direct me to this halogen module you speak of? I think I'm going to go with the DRC Edge 2. The videos I've seen of it make it out to be pretty bright. I'm not entirely surer how I'll go about installing it, but I can figure that out. At $30, it seems like not a bad deal. Do any of you guys have experience with a brake light flasher? There's a replacement board for the Edge 2 made by a company called "12 O'clock Labs" that adds turn signals and flashing functionality, but I'm satisfied with my OEM turn signals for now. It's also $90.
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Dec 3, 2012 05:11
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Update to my questions about visibility stuff. I ordered some [KTM?] orange 3m scotchlite tape, about 2ft of 3m SOLAS tape, the DRC Edge 2 light, and just for fun the Universal Magic Strobes Brake Light Flasher. All together, it wasn't terribly expensive, and hopefully it improves visibility. Now for the fun stuff. What shapes/things should I put on my helmet?
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Dec 6, 2012 07:43
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I installed the DRC Edge 2 tail light and Custom LED brake light flasher. No videos of the flasher functioning, but this tail light is ten times brighter than what I had, and I think the flasher module will stand out even more. Installation took a few hours 'cause I was going slow and had to fabricate a little bracket and do a little re-wiring since Harbor Freight spade connectors are garbage.   
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Dec 13, 2012 07:00
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I'm running Rotella 5w40 in my 625smc... I hope I don't kill it. Although, there were a ton of scary metal shavings in the oil when I changed it after buying it, so maybe it's already on its way out. :/
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Jan 24, 2013 08:13
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JP Money posted:Is 4500 too much for this '06 625smc with 8k miles. Full akra, chain & sprockets, etc. That looks clean. If everything is in good shape that's probably not a terrible price, but $3500-$4k would be nicer. I paid $3500 for my '05 625smc and then ended up dropping nearly $1000 into it to get everything back into running shape/stock. I love the power, low weight, and suspension-- but had I known that it would cost me $4500 for everything, I may have sat on my money a little longer and looked for something else.
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Jan 30, 2013 06:00
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Should have bought a 690!!! Well I know that, now.
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Feb 1, 2013 01:09
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The PO of my 625 did a ghetto tubeless mod to my wheels. It appeared to be a poo poo ton of silicone sealant and duct tape. I decided it would be safer to still run a tube. So I put a fresh layer of duct tape over the caulking and put in a tube.
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Apr 16, 2013 03:04
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Something really lovely happened to me today, and I'd like some input to see if there's anything to be worried about. I took my 625 SMC out for a ride after not riding it for several weeks. On my way back home I was stuck at a stop light for three cycles which probably took about 10 minutes. In that time I could feel my bike getting very hot, but KTM in it's great wisdom never included a water temp gauge so I wasn't sure exactly how hot it was running. Maybe a quarter mile from my place I turned off the petcock so that there wouldn't be any fuel in the carb by the time I got home.  Shortly after the bike died I heard a splash and then saw that the coolant line that runs from the water pump down to the engine block had somehow popped off, and all of my coolant was dumped onto the ground. I'm not sure if, since it's a thumper, the worm gear clamp had just loosened up some and the hose was able to pop off, or if my radiator cap had failed or was improperly seated, or some unknown other issue exists. The PO did install a radiator catch can/overflow and but I didn't notice much if any coolant in it, and it didn't look like it had spilled out. My plan at this time is to call up my local KTM dealer and see if they have a tester to pressure test my rad cap. I replaced it with a new cap from the dealer when I got the bike last fall. I flushed the old coolant out at the same time. And, I'll go down and pick up some fresh coolant to put in it. I might also replace the particular coolant line. Is this a thing that happens, or just bad luck? I'm very fortunate that this happened once I was home and not while I was riding or sitting at a light. Is there anything else I should check? The coolant looked clean, and the sightglass for the oil doesn't appear to be milky as if any coolant has mixed with oil. I've pasted in a pick of the water pump side with the coolant line that popped off circled: 
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May 13, 2013 03:39
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The 625 SMC does have a fan on the left hand radiator, however I have not verified if/when it actually comes on. I also can't get the left hand wing/fender/plastic off since the PO stripped the threaded inserts free from the tank. So, I'm not sure if there's a fast and easy way to test it. I plan on buying the Trail Tech Vapor for my bike so that I'll have a tachometer and water temp gauge, but I'll need to do a little research on which particular kit I need for my bike. Unrelated, but also a point of interest, how do I become a hooligan? I keep hearing that I should be jumping things and doing wheelies, but this being my first bike, I have no idea how to do those things.
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May 13, 2013 06:11
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Yep, I'm in Austin. I still need to build up some more confidence on really maneuvering the bike before I go on any group rides with people I don't know. But I will look up those guys on SMJ when the time comes.
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May 13, 2013 06:43
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Skumby posted:Didn't the gay bell hanging off your skidplate alert you? Maybe it only works on harlies. Thanks for the poo poo post. That pic is from the craigslist ad when I bought it.
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May 14, 2013 02:17
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Skumby posted:Is this from the ad too douchebag? Touche, I haven't taken it off. Still a poo poo post.
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May 14, 2013 03:20
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Regarding my 625 SMC popping a coolant line off: I checked that my radiator fan worked, that the temperature switch worked, and refilled my coolant over the weekend. I then let it idle with the cap off for several minutes while massaging the hoses to try and get any bubbles out. Lastly, I put the cap on and waited for the radiator fan to come on. However, I'm getting a little nervous after reading about other people having coolant hoses pop off of their vehicles. I'm wondering if I should order a new hose from the dealership and also replace the worm gear hose clamps, or if it's just something I should check for tightness every few hundred miles. The bike at this time has about 13k miles on it, and I can only assume that these parts are original.
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May 22, 2013 01:49
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Weekend Ride Report: Screwing around in stadium parking lots is the best thing. I hadn't realized how much seating position effects power wheelies. Oh, and curbs, those are fun.
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May 26, 2013 23:57
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Z3n posted:Eh I'd pass. 6500 is SMC money. SM-R isn't as nice as the SMC. For the uninformed, what are the differences?
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Jun 15, 2013 05:13
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I safety wired my coolant hose clamp out of paranoia, and then went for a ride down to Canyon Lake, TX via several country roads/back roads. Alas no wheelies, and highway roads really causing my rear tire to square off/get huge chicken strips. I have the BT003rs tires so I guess they are probably pretty darn soft, but I wouldn't have guessed that <1000 miles would do this. Oh well, time to sign up for a track day when one comes to TWS again.... and find a trailer. Here's a pic from the Canyon Lake dam: 
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Jun 24, 2013 03:57
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Veritas posted:I can help with the trackday, at least in the price and gear dept. My only riding gear is a two-piece set of A* leathers I got on clearance from Cycle Gear, some Sidis I bought on deep discount from New Enough, and some knockoff A* GP Pros. So, I look like a power ranger in the gear department. I'm curious about price stuff though. JP Money posted:If you do ridesmart they'll give you free leathers and boots for the day. It's also 50% off. They won't be back there until September though IIRC. Yeah, since I haven't done a trackday with Ridesmart I'm aware of their 50% off deal, and I really want to do one. Waiting til September might not be so bad though. It's ridiculously hot, and I can definitely tell that I'm not 100% focused when I start to get hot and dehydrated.
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Jun 25, 2013 06:50
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I've been to both TWS and MSRH with my brother when he has done track days. Right now we're mostly looking for a Kendon dual trailer. It would probably be a good idea to buy some spare tubes. Are there people that can remount and balance stuff at these events?
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Jun 25, 2013 18:54
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Christoff posted:I listed it without a real intention of selling Why do people do this?
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Jul 3, 2013 00:26
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I took my 625smc out for a group ride around some desert hill country roads today... and promptly had a bunch of bolts back themselves out. My license plate was hanging on by one screw and nut, and my brake light lost one bolt, and the other was super loose. Time to go to the hardware store, and use copious amounts of loctite. Another question: I'm not track star, but I feel like I was leaning the bike pretty far over in some turns once I got the rhythm down, and my rear tire looked like I had scrubbed a good portion of it. However, my front tire still had a lot of untouched tread on either side of it. Is this normal for sumos, or am I just not leaning very far?
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Jul 4, 2013 22:16
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The ziptie trick sounds like a great idea. I'll give that a try. I really don't want to have to deal with getting a new plate, registration and inspection sticker. Thanks for the advice!
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Jul 5, 2013 00:10
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I'm going to bite the bullet and pick up a Trail Tech Vapor #75-102 kit for my 625 SMC since the speedo has become unreadable. Are there any online shops with coupons I should pick one up from, or do I order directly from Trail Tech? Edit: It appears I can get it off of Amazon on Prime for $91, but the stealth/black model (#752-102) is on back order. 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Jul 17, 2013 |
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Jul 17, 2013 04:25
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So, did the 2013 KTM 690 SMC R actually come to the US, or is the US KTM site just a tease?
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Jul 28, 2013 19:05
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:I only see the enduro? I found this link last night, but the price isn't listed. I think the GB site lists it for £7500. http://www.ktm.com/us/supermoto/690-smc-r-eu/highlights.html
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Jul 28, 2013 23:09
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So I started installing my Trail Tech Vapor this past weekend, but I ran out of time midway through. It turns out that when I ordered the "stealth" model (#752-102) Amazon sent me the silver model (#75-102) in a mislabeled package. After I emailed them back, they overnighted the black model. Now, that I have both, I think the silver model looks better with my hand guards.    Anyway, all that I have left to do for the Vapor is to install the water temp sensor and the tach sensor. Everyone on the KTM forums installs the water temp sensor behind the thermostat which doesn't make a lot of sense to me. If you do this, you won't know if the thermostat is failed and the bike is really overheating. It would make more sense to put it in the coolant loop that circulates coolant through the head (#2 in the photo I found), but I'm not sure what direction the other lines flow. Do any of you all know? The only difficulty with the Vapor is that the wire for the temp sensor is pretty short, so I'll have to splice in some additional length to get it up to the gauge.  After this I'll finally get around to checking my valve clearances, attempting to fix an oil leak, and get the bike ready for a track day once the weather in Texas cools down a little.
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Aug 13, 2013 06:40
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ought ten posted:Are you returning the stealth? I've been thinking about getting a trailtech recently. Yeah, I got a return label from amazon and I think I'll mail the stealth model back. I would keep it if it had a matte black finish, but its gloss black and looks sort of cheap. You can pick them up on Amazon prime for ~$95.
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Aug 14, 2013 02:30
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My rear wheel is filthy- I suspect mostly from chain lube and other gunk. How the hell do I clean or keep clean my rear wheel? Between spokes, sprocket and the brake disk I'm not sure how to really get in there.
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Aug 18, 2013 08:13
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JP Money posted:Put kerosene on a rag and thank me later. It's magic for getting rid of chain lube. That worked pretty well. Thanks! I got my Vapor on, adjusted my valves (they were a little looser than spec), and changed my oil. Speaking of oil, I had about 1000 miles on the oil and had poo poo tons of metal flakes in the pan... It was like this when I last changed the oil after buying it from the PO, and I've read that this isn't "unusual", but it's kinda scary.  So, there's a Dosoduro for sale in Houston and a '10 690 SMC in DFW. I might try to do a few track days and then look for a newer/less sketchy bike. For the time being I'm realizing that I need to go crazy with the loctite. What should I double check? MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Aug 19, 2013 |
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Aug 19, 2013 06:09
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I got my Trail Tech Vapor fully installed and took it for a short ride today.  I'm not sure if I have it configured correctly or not, though. Does anyone know if the LC4 in the 625 SMC generates 1 spark pulse per revolution, or 1/2, or 2? I currently have the vapor set to one spark, and cruising at 65 in 5th gear I think I was turning about 4k RPM according to the tach. It just seems like idling at around 1500 RPM seems a bit high for a thumper. I looked briefly on my phone earlier, but I didn't find an answer for the LC4.
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Aug 25, 2013 00:34
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Awesome. Thanks guys. Now, assuming I fixed my oil leak, it's track day time.
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Aug 25, 2013 17:40
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MetaJew posted:Awesome. Thanks guys. I appear to have a very small leak coming from the kickstarter/shifter shaft seal. I wonder if I'll still pass tech. 
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Aug 27, 2013 05:51
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JP Money posted:IIRC you're in TX right? I think you're going to laugh when you go through tech. Especially on a sumo. They'll first look at you like you have 3 heads since everyone else is on a SS and then they're gonna wiggle your chain, pump your brake lever, make sure the throttle returns smoothly and send you on your way since you'll be in level 1. If you start racing then you'll have to safety wire all the bolts, get catch cans, etc but for now you'll be fine man. Put some silicone grease around the seal if you're really worried but I doubt that it puts out enough oil to notice let alone be a danger. That being said if you think in any way that it's going to put any oil droplets on the track please fix it so that you don't wreck yours and my friends bikes. Oil on the track (or coolant) causes so much havoc especially in level 1 where people aren't as well versed with what to do in those situations. It looks like it might be like one drop per night. I checked adv rider and supermotojunkie, and it sounds like I might be able to replace a v-seal and stuff some orings in there. If that doesn't fix it you have to split the case in which case I'll eventually sell it.
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Aug 27, 2013 18:47
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Slim Pickens posted:Shouldn't it be 1/2? Single cylinder four-strokes spark every two rotations. Jim Silly-Balls posted:Plenty of them are waste spark type systems. They just spark on every rotation, whether they need to or not. Its easier that way from a design standpoint, as then the ignition doesnt need to know what stroke the engine is on. I tried 1/2 and that doubled the RPM. I think it must be a waste spark system.
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Aug 27, 2013 18:54
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Do a search for "lc4 oil burping" and rejoice at the funfilled adventures that awaits! On my 625, you fill the crank case with something like a liter and then put 700 ml in the frame down tube. Start the engine, and in about 20 seconds oil will begin to seep out of the frame fill point. You screw in the plug, shut down the engine and torque it down. Look up Creeper's how-to's on AdvRider. It is tedious, but not hard.
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Sep 26, 2013 14:40
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axia posted:You didn't pick up any hypodermic needles in there did you?? Are you cleaning and lubricating your chain regularly? Any chance something is stripped or vibrating loose when you ride?
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Oct 2, 2013 03:37
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axia posted:Not one thing looks odd or out of place on the drivetrain, though there is like a "clean" spot on each of the links, so maybe they're rubbing up against something? Though I can't imagine what it could be, its not like the DRZ is a complicated system...? I'm no veteran, but I'm nearly 100% certain that you still need to lube it. The purpose of the O (or X) rings is to hold lubricant around the joints/pins/links/rollers/whatever-they're-called . If your're not lubricating it, overtime I believe the rollers and holes for the rollers wear out, and you get "stretch". Now, would this cause you to have to retension your chain after every ride? I don't know, but if you're not cleaning and lubing it, it could contribute to the problem. Cleaning with kerosene probably helps to lubricate it some and keep the o-rings soft, but you still need to use some sort of wax/spray on lube.
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Oct 2, 2013 07:26
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