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The resin casting tutorial in the OP is fantastic, I can't wait to try something like that, but is there a similar tutorial that shows making small items like skulls, helmets, weapons, crates, etc.? I want to try making scenery for games like 40K and Infinity with random scattered items and these would help me build up my confidence while working up to bigger things (plus molding tiny pieces is much cheaper). e: I mean 2-piece molds, just want to see how someone did the same thing as the guy making the tank hull, but in a much smaller size. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jun 9, 2012 |
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Jun 9, 2012 23:12
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Question about air dry modeling clay: I bought a small block of it to get started but I've never used it before. I want to make little sculpts of terrain items like wheels, barrels, crates, etc. - will it stand up to being used as a master model, or should that be for Green Stuff only? Is Milliput silver a good stand-in for Green Stuff?
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Jun 11, 2012 12:57
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There's this guy who did this DVD video tutorial. Another review here. Samples here.
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Jun 11, 2012 13:56
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OK - was just wondering, it was cheap and I'll just use it for practice, or for making one-off stuff that will go into terrain pieces, I guess.
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Jun 11, 2012 15:44
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I don't know what the salt technique is, but: 1. paint your base, then paint your rust colors 2. use thinned liquid latex (called 'liquid mask' if you buy it pre-made) on a sponge and apply sparingly 3. paint your main color & highlights, do the wash 4. peel off liquid mask and touch up rust where you like
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Jun 11, 2012 21:55
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Store them tip-up for one, just in case you're not already. But before you buy them it's worth looking at them very closely to make sure they aren't already tending to curl or split. I'm not sure what folks recommend for fixing brushes, I would think that just cutting the hairs away at the tip is a good thing. Maybe for a second-tier brush, but not for your main one. I have a question for UK painters - if you can't get hold of Simple Green, what do you use to take paint off figures? I have some that I bought off eBay and I'm not sure I want to put new primer or paint on top of half-painted models - first of all, is putting primer over paint a bad thing? Would the paint build up too much, or is that even a concern?
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Jun 13, 2012 15:43
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I'm getting the Biohazard set, which gives you all the extra models that come with the goals that have been reached...plus I'm paying more for the terrain pack, Dr. Ridley and the extra figure that was just announced. The Biohazard set is the best deal, you get I think double the number of standard figures plus lots of resin figures, custom dice and lots more. Much of it won't be available online (just at conventions) after the Kickstarter is finished. e: I wanted to get a list together of all the stuff I'm getting, so here's what you get in the normal set for $80:
Biohazard sets get the above, plus:
And the additions you can get:
Some figures are noted as shipping in March 2013, just keep that in mind. The game set is due to be released in November. Gameplay video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A49F4Ntjm2Q Miniatures overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or0RrZpZ-Tk I'm totally pimping for this because I want to get get more free stuff with my set. So here's the link for the Kickstarter: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/coolminiornot/sedition-wars-battle-for-alabaster It's been posted before in other threads so I don't think there's any issues with posting it again. krushgroove fucked around with this message at 09:34 on Jun 18, 2012 |
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Jun 18, 2012 09:10
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I did a big edit above of what you're supposed to get in the different sets. Biohazard level plus any optional models is definitely the way to go.
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Jun 18, 2012 09:35
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Yeah I'm going to be trying Infinity soon and Sedition Wars looks right up my alley too. On a whim I typed https://www.seditionwars.com in my browser and apparently they've got a fully-featured site with a background of the setting, the factions and everything. They've even details of the various factions and you can buy many of the models right now. The Kickstarter set will include plastic versions of all the resin models I guess. Don't know why they don't mention any of this on the Kickstarter page.
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Jun 18, 2012 13:50
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That looks really good, is it a kit or scratch-built? I just build my first piece of terrain last night, out of foam board. It's a lot harder than I thought to make it look nice and detailed! It'll take more than some glued-on rocks and sand to make it look good. I'm going to have to add some wires and rebar to the floors where they've broken off, and some broken-off drinking straw segments for gutters and piping on the outside.
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Jun 19, 2012 10:42
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OK, I'm going to go with 'kit' as the answer!
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Jun 19, 2012 11:40
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A bit random, but can someone measure the corner-to-corner diameter of their Citadel color pot? I'm going to make my own painting station out of foam board and want to allow for the different brands of paint, where possible. Also, can any acrylic flow improver/drying retarder work with Vallejo? At some point I want to try blending colors and apparently this helps a lot.
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Jun 27, 2012 16:01
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Flipswitch posted:Got a question here goons and goonettes, what do you lot use to spur on your painting ability? I find that as much as I enjoy painting, it falls to the way side a hell of a lot and it's easy to get distracted and as such my pace is monolithic. I've only just started playing 40K but have tons of unpainted/stripped miniatures from years ago (I bought a KR case with 144 slots and nearly filled it with all of my old figures...sadly only about 30 are painted to a usable standard) - basically I've tried to houserule with my friends that all of our armies must have *some* sort of painting progress between games. In the case of my Dark Eldar, that ranges from assembly all the way to the finished product - my Reavers are all assembled now, but there are about 20 troops remaining to be built, plus I want to modify some of the Kabalites into Trueborn with Green Stuff. I haven't painted in years, so I'm starting slowly by painting up a bunch of Genestealers I bought ages ago (to use in a space RPG setting), so I can get the hang of taking off mold lines, assembling, etc. I've quickly come to the realization I'll be watching a lot more movies or listening to loads of podcasts as I paint! I don't really understand how the oath thing works, plus I want to get more comfortable painting before I commit to anything.
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Jun 28, 2012 13:29
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Lovely orc! I'm not usually impressed with orcs but that is really nice, I love the axe and face. KingMob posted:Painting motivation strategies, the KingMob way: I like the points reward thing - I'll have to implement that starting two weeks ago. Also I'll have to settle on what's good for me, I'd love to do some really good character pieces but starting with armies done assembly-line style is probably where I need to be right now. Hopefully I'll be up to scratch when I'm done with them and I get started on my Infinity figures.
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Jun 28, 2012 14:05
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Dominion posted:Be careful with assembly line painting. It gets poo poo done but if you're anything like me it quickly saps your will to paint/live. I cannot stand to paint more than 3 or so models at once. I know what you mean! I was putting the first base coat on the Genestealers last night and the movie I was watching ended...I couldn't stop painting to start another movie because I was in a painting groove, but I didn't want to continue painting because I wasn't listening to anything. It was weird. I used to watch tons of movies over and over while painting, I just need to get back in the swing of things. But with the assembly-line painting I just want to get these particular models to 'tabletop quality' so I have a group of figures with matching colors (partly to accomplish something, partly to build up my confidence). Once I get to the 40K guys I actually use I'm hoping I'll have the method down a bit more and slow down for more quality and attention to detail. The plan for the Infinity models is to give them the full 100% treatment. So hopefully I work my way up  I've been watching tons of videos on blending, washing, basing, painting eyes, etc., and I'm itching to try all the techniques, but I need to slowly work my way up and not get ahead of myslef. The Infinity models are intended to be full-on 'character/display' models (hopefully).
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Jun 28, 2012 15:44
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Dominion posted:My suggestion would be to not worry about blending at this point. Master being able to put down an even smooth coat with no brushstrokes, then learn to shade with washes and highlight with drybrushing, then edge highlighting, especially for hard armored models. I am right there with you on not worrying about blending right now. I'm planning to get started with base, wash, drybrush and highlighting and that's it. Welp, gonna eat my dinner, put on some MiniWarGaming banter battle reports and get painting
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Jun 28, 2012 22:14
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That is fantastic. I love the dirt effect - is that sand or something finer just glued to the cork and base? Question for you all: bubbles. I get bubbles in the wet paint when painting things with lots of fine detail, like the holes and teeth/tongue on the head of a Genestealer. I'm not smashing the paint into the recesses with the bristles, I brush on the paint to get all the outer, non-recessed areas, then try to dab the paint into the harder to holes and lower areas. This is when the bubbles start to appear. I can pop the bubbles by blowing on the model, but it's annoying and happens quite a lot. Is the paint too thin? I'm using a wet palette (which is awesome, btw) so maybe that's thinning the paint just a bit? I'm using Vallejo, in case that matters. I also have a question about coverage: I used grey primer and I have to put two coats of bone white on the larger areas. Basically I paint all the large areas, then the small areas, then go over the large areas again, brushing at 90 degrees to the brushstrokes of the first layer. Is this a thing with the paint brand or it being too thin? I'm just not sure if these are completely related issues.
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Jun 29, 2012 09:50
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Great tips, thanks - pigment, etc., is definitely something I'd like to work with down the road.stabbington posted:Some paint just does this, but it's also a consistency thing. Try adding a bit of flow improver to your water (10:1 water to flow aid) to decrease the surface tension of your paint. I'm assuming you mean this for when you're dropping paint onto the back of a CD. Will this work with a wet palette at all?
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Jun 29, 2012 11:35
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ijyt posted:I think brown Dettol didn't get the memo, because after 6 months in a tub the primer didn't get stripped. I guess it's stained or something. How long do you let the models soak in Dettol normally? Do you dilute it all? I can't get Simple Green in the UK at all and I have read that Dettol does the trick.
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Jun 29, 2012 15:44
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Thanks a bunch I have a lot of experimenting and trial & error to work through. ijyt - thanks for the write-up on using Dettol! I haven't found anywhere else online that explains that, and I have a ton of used/old models to get some practice on.
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Jun 29, 2012 20:14
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They'll send you a survey, I would tell them you want the Biohazard set, you get way more stuff and you can just buy the Terrain Pack when it comes out.
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Jun 30, 2012 22:44
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Green is GW 'back in the day', black is old school, brown is the new hotness. Take your pick I am going to vary mine depending on the bases I do for each group.
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Jul 2, 2012 16:39
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I have realized another error in painting up my Genestealers: not using colored primer. I should have used green primer then painted all the bone white areas over a couple of times. As it is now, I'm spending loads of time doing: primer, bone white, then green. And the messy areas of the white have to be gone over again at least one or two more times because the white shows through the green. 
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Jul 2, 2012 20:03
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(crosspost from 40K thread) If you're in the UK and near an Aldi, you can get their Dettol substitute (I've only tried the lavender version so far), it seems to be working pretty good at stripping paint & primer off my 1992-era Space Marines with metal bodies and styrene arms. I'm a little worried about wearing off the fine details of the styrene bits (the feathers of the eagles on the bolter guns, etc.) so I started at 1:1 dilution with water but it seems to be okay so far. I think I'll use an old electric toothbrush head in the future, manually brushing the thick paint gets pretty tedious.
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Jul 4, 2012 13:05
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Yeah I have no idea how much Dettol costs, I've never bought it before, but I'm always in Aldi and it's just £1 so I figured I'd give it a shot!
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Jul 4, 2012 16:04
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ijyt posted:It's about £4 for 750ml or £3 for 500ml. So quite a saving either way. Wow, yeah - the Aldi stuff is called 'All-in-1' and comes in a 1 liter bottle for a quid. Not sure what the Lidl variant is called but I'd wager it probably does the same thing. Trip report on the early 90's Space Marines is good, the styrene survived the 2:1 dilution so I've tossed in some all-metal Chaos Terminators and added more of the disinfectant, probably a 4:1 ratio now of All-in-1 to water. All I used was a toothbrush, a modeling tool (wax scraper type thing) on the heavy stuff in the creases, and a cocktail stick on what I thought the metal tool might scratch. Soaked for 24 hours, brushed the heavy stuff off, then let soak for another day and took the rest off. I suppose you could get away with just 1 day of soaking and an electric toothbrush, but it's boring work and I wanted to watch TV. The Space Marines were primed in white, couldn't tell you the brand at all, I'll find out what color primer the Termies were painted with once tomorrow (just bought these online). These are very cool! But please don't make me look at 6mm stuff, I've spent enough on 40k stuff and painting equipment... But I will be getting into casting at some point, I want to make corpses and helmets/skulls to adorn my Dark Eldar and Chaos forces.
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Jul 4, 2012 21:38
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lilljonas posted:Thanks! Augh, stop it, even though I want to field regiments of infantry. Lethemonster posted:I got annoyed by the horrible design of GW's current scenery and terrain pieces and wrote a couple of blog posts. One is alot of swearing about skulls and the other is an overview of awesome alternatives and comparative pricing if anyone is interested. Yeah I like the goth-sci-fi look in small doses, luckily I just have one friend that's happy to buy proper GW terrain, while I prefer to build my own stuff, which I try to cross-purpose for Infinity - which means not many skulls, etc. I'll have to check out those Terraclips things - if they make modern/sci-fi stuff I'll almost certainly buy some. If you want some constructive criticism, though, if you Control-F 'real like' on your post, it should be 'real life' (sorry, I have a knack for finding typos). Also some links to the different companies would be helpful and make readers skip going to Google.
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Jul 4, 2012 23:02
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I tried a brass bristle brush on the metal Chaos Terminators I got last week, the paint came right off, down to the metal. This is with the Dettol disinfectant clone 'All in 1' from Aldi (which is in the States now). I wouldn't try the brass brush on plastic, but I cut down an old toothbrush so it's about half height, and hopefully a lot stiffer on the paint. I've learned that leaning over the kitchen sink to do the brushing, etc...is extremely bad for your back. Use a work table, kids! I also haven't been able to try my electric toothbrush yet, and I'm trying to hold off using a needle to get right down into the crevices, since I'm not sure there's any need to get EVERY tiny scrap of paint off, at least way down deep.
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Jul 10, 2012 13:36
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SatelliteCore posted:I swear, there was a time in my life when I was this creative. Thanks for the suggestion. :3 dawww... I just can't throw anything away, and you can never have too many old toothbrushes. Actually I want to get one to cut the bristles, narrow the head and also shave the head down so it's easier to scrub between a model's legs - it's a total pain to get in there. And while I'm at it the head could be shaved to a point to make it kind of like a pan scraper that some dish scrubbers have - that would save time swapping to a toothpick or carving tool. The paint often won't come off with the bristles, but touch it with a fingernail or a tool and it flakes right off.
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Jul 10, 2012 14:58
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Hellbeard - Finally took the time to read through all of your older posts before I started reading the thread, great stuff dude! I want to make a few small things and learn how to cast in resin along the way. It'll take me some time but I love watching how a lot of your figures and sculpts got their start.
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Jul 17, 2012 16:18
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Hellbeard posted:Thanks a lot! Thanks - I saw one of your earlier posts about talc powder, a friend of mine at work used to to casting to make custom painted toys, etc., and he said the same thing. I'm planning to start small, with things like skulls and stuff like that that can be done with a one-piece, then hopefully get to where I can reliably do two-piece molds. The first step is getting used to working with Green Stuff to make things, I've never tried sculpting stuff before! I'd like to make some bases and simple one-piece molds, etc., but there's already so many great ones it would be hard to stand out - I might still give it a try though. Did you ever paint your Zoidberg or The Dude models?
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Jul 17, 2012 18:25
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I'm not planning to paint any white models, but I have to ask: why prime in black if you're going to paint something white? Why not prime it in white? I see this all the time and I don't know why anyone would prime *everything* in black.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:49
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Pierzak posted:Black's more grimdark. ...but, but...the frustration of painting bright colors over it... Manifest posted:I prime white all the time. At the moment I'm just using cheap grey primer, but once I get started properly I'll get the Army Painter colored primers, skipping a step is just too enticing to pass up.
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Jul 18, 2012 02:13
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Yeah I guess the 'missing a part of the model' thing is an advantage - I was suprised how many little bits I missed just doing the basecoats on my Genestealers, and I had to go back and touch them up. I thought for some folks it has to do with not wanting to get additional colors of primer. Manifest posted:Don't do it! It never looks as good to prime and basecoat with one spray. Thanks for that, it was a question I was going to ask at some point anyway!
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Jul 18, 2012 02:23
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S.J. posted:I see sprue scar on that shoulder pad Space man barbie painting trash talk all up in here.
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Jul 20, 2012 18:42
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Eyespy posted:Anyone else see that Reaper Miniatures is having a Kickstarter? The $100 level is pretty great with 67 minis before stretch goals. Dammit, I just sorted out thinks with CoolMiniOrNot about my payment (card got hacked and they couldn't get payment, I'm on the 'late pledge' list) so I probably can't get these.
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Jul 24, 2012 09:35
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That is loving shocking. Does QA...just not exist there?
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Jul 25, 2012 10:37
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It's just shocking that it's accepted and there's nothing done to correct it before it leaves. It's putting out a lovely product and waiting for customers to come back with complaints - it's not good business, not good for customers, etc. But they have nearly a monopoly and people put up with it, so why change? It's just lovely.
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Jul 25, 2012 11:23
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Very nice. Tell us you have that on display at all times. Small update on the Aldi 'All-in-1' disinfectant as a paint stripper: I experimented with one plastic Chaos Space Marine for a few days (thinking Khorne wouldn't really mind sacrificing one soldier, being a chaos god and all) and the paint came off that pretty well and the styrene survived just fine. It looked like it had been primed black, then painted over with red and trimmed with gold. The plastic wasn't affected so I tossed the rest of the painted berzerkers in there and left them for maybe 4 whole days over the weekend. Since these were bought in the same eBay listing, I assumed they would have been painted with the same paints, etc., but on some of them the red came off easily to expose a pure black, not sure if it's primer or if the models had been supplied at some point in black plastic? I haven't tried scraping the black to see if it's plastic yet though. Of the 10 plastic models I have that were red, about 4 are now all black, the rest are 99% stripped, with red and/or black in just the hard to reach crevices. The metal chaos terminators are the same, except with black in the crevices, and the chaos dreadnought has even less paint in its crevices. One terminator is almost completely bare, I'm guessing it wasn't primed. Once I wash these I'll assemble them back together with Green Stuff and then get back to actually painting! Stripping can take ages, though - I watched 2 hours of TV while brushing off the plastic models, and spent at least double that doing the terminators & dreadnought. I know wargaming is an overall loss in terms of money, but if you want to calculate how much time it takes to do all this work on crappy models you've bought online, versus buying primed & base-painted models on eBay...you're probably coming out behind. If that matters to you.
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Jul 25, 2012 13:51
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Well, drat. Now I want to play Bloodbowl.
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Jul 25, 2012 23:05
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