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ZenVulgarity posted:Why are EVs so cheap on resale compared to gas cars at similar low mileage? I assume limited battery life (no one wants to get stuck having to replace them) and new technology people are unsure of. People buying used cars have different criteria than people buying new cars. Exciting high-tech stuff is less exciting when you need basic transportation.
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Jan 18, 2017 14:03
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ZenVulgarity posted:What is they life span and cost to replace those batteries on average? Typically around $5,000, and they're supposed to last about 100,000 miles. Depends on the make. Being new technology, no one's exactly sure how it's all going to shake out long term, so everyone is a bit leery of it. In ten years, swapping out battery packs may be no big deal, but that 's not obvious at the moment.
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Jan 18, 2017 14:07
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Sir Tonk posted:Don't like Subaru, outside of the BRZ, and I'm really not into minivans. That's why I went with the Roadmaster in the first place, it's got most of the capacity of a van, but it rides like a Cadillac. At least consider a minvan, IMO. It would fit your needs very well. We've got an Odyssey and it is terrific for long trips with the family, and my wife drives it as a daily commuter, getting high 20s MPG. It's great for hauling people and stuff very comfortably. When it's just the two of us we take my Fiat Spider. 
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Jan 18, 2017 22:09
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RFX posted:What are the thread's thoughts on the MINI Countryman or Clubman? Lots of people, myself included, asking for various smaller hatches/crossovers/wagons etc. and I've noticed nobody had brought those up. They seem like decent options on paper, especially the 2017 Countryman that's coming out this summer, but I'm totally open to the fact that I am oblivious to something bad about them. I guess you'd have to take a look at them and see if they have the room to carry what you need to haul around. Mini's reputation is that they're fun to drive, but have reliability issues. I considered a Mini convertible my last time around. Almost bought one, so I understand their appeal.
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Jan 19, 2017 05:16
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signalnoise posted:Could someone give me a quick rundown on goods/bads on this list? And maybe expand it for more of the same kind of thing? I'm looking for a smallish car that sits low and is decently fun to drive without going to the track, for ~25k or less. I own a Fiat 124 and can vouch for it. It's fantastic. It and the MX-5 are close, so there's a bunch of subjective criteria differentiating them that will push people one way or the other. What pushed me to the Fiat is that it has a significantly better suspension, having a softer ride and yet flatter cornering than the MX-5. Engine is mostly a wash depending on whether you prefer NA or turbocharged. The Fiat is quieter, but also a bit heavier (in part due to the extra noise deadening). The long hood makes it feel much larger when you're in the car - it's surprising how small it is when you get out. The Fiat also has a significantly larger trunk, which may seem silly for a two-seater - but it's big enough to fit the luggage for you and your spouse to take it on a weekend jaunt somewhere. The Miata's is borderline useless. If you don't plan on doing any modding or track days, the Fiat is the better choice, IMO. Drive both (and the others) and see what you think for yourself. In all, even though they're very similar and come off the same assembly line, their souls are quite different and it's a very individual choice as to which is better for you.
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Jan 26, 2017 00:44
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signalnoise posted:Well I just heard back from a personally known, trusted, reputable mechanic. He says because of the location of the transmission in the car, it's going to be about 8 hours of labor just to give a solid diagnosis, and then somewhere between 500 and 1500 in parts, plus labor to fix it and put it all back together. Depending on the severity it could be like 3000 dollars or more to fix this all told. So I'll probably just sell it as is to someone as a project car and heyyyy there's a down payment, right? Assuming you're in the US, now is a very good time to buy a convertible. Not much demand. I'm sort of a broken record on this, but I own a Fiat Spider and can strongly recommend you add that to your list of possibilities.
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Feb 9, 2017 17:14
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ShadeofBlue posted:Also, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I kind of like how the Fiat 500s look, and really like how small they are. The manual versions have come up surprisingly cheap on Craigslist (~$6k for like a 2012 with 50k miles-ish). I'm usually wary of these kinds of cult car type things, but does anyone have any experience with them? I understand the allure of the FIAT, but if you go that way, know what you're getting into. It's a great car in many ways, but really sucks in others (I guess that describes a lot of cars, depending on what you consider important). The engine itself is fantastic and nearly bullet-proof, but the support systems (fuel, cooling, etc.) tend to have lots of small issues. Or maybe none, if you're lucky. They seem to be either riddled with problems or almost completely trouble free. All cars are far more reliable than they were even 20 years ago, but FIAT still lags the pack. General consensus seems to be it's a good city car, but not particularly comfortable or useful for long trips. For commuting and buying groceries, it might be perfect. Car and Driver did a long-term test on one, which may be insightful. There was a 500 thread here that eventually petered out. It's still around if you prowl back a few pages and you can read of peoples' experiences with it. On the other hand, my sister has a Honda Fit and loves it. If reliability is your main criterion, it would be a much better choice. Other cars in that class (ca. 2012) would be a Chevy Cruze, Mazda2 (as was mentioned), the Scion xD, Toyota Yaris, Kia Rio, or the Nissan Cube.
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Feb 10, 2017 15:57
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IRQ posted:Not to defend buying a sportscar without some kind of safe finances but drat man not all of us make that kind of money. Yeah, that's proper advice for people who plan to trade in or sell their car every two or three years. If you plan to keep it for 10, there's nothing wrong with a 5-year loan (provided you do actually then keep the car for 10 years).
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Feb 11, 2017 03:59
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H110Hawk posted:I would argue "don't buy cars where you couldn't cover a call on the lien" is a more flexible way to look at it. There is a reason they play four-square game with you and try to focus you in on the payment amount, not the total amount. At least in California now they have to show you the total amount of interest paid before you are committed to anything. (Until you sign the "long form" in the finance room you can walk away from a car without a penny out of pocket.) There's more to owning a car than cold financial analysis. Intangibles like the amount of pleasure you derive from it are have value, as well - although they are not as amenable to bookkeeping since they are highly individual. Maximizing financial return is not always the point. Paying more for a car you love is a far better investment than paying less for one you hate. The key is to go in clear-eyed as to just what you value, and what you can afford. People get into trouble trying to buy more car than they can actually pay for. Tabulate what you absolutely need, then what you want, then compare that with what you have to spend and make smart compromises.
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Feb 11, 2017 05:01
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signalnoise posted:This is why I just have no shame about asking if I shouldn't do something. I asked about the 84 month loan expecting to be told it's a bad idea, but it is worth hearing it if it knocks sense into you. At the end of the day, 5 years ago I could afford a Mazda 3 with a 60 month loan. Last night I could afford a Miata in roughly the same shame as the Mazda 3 was, but with a 36 month loan, and I am absolutely satisfied with the driving experience. In another 5 years, who knows? But now just wasn't the time for a 25-30k car. I think I'm on track to have my mid-life crisis car during my mid-life. In my case, I had to wait to my 50s to get the car I'd wanted since I was 10, so it just looks like a mid-life crisis. Either finances or family were in the way for about 45 years, then the opportunity finally arrived and it's been very worth it. Delayed gratification is still gratification.
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Feb 11, 2017 15:45
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scrubs season six posted:The type of Civic you can get for 5 grand is, despite how reliable Hondas are, also the type of Civic that could have the tranny take a poo poo on you within a year. And even barring major mechanical disaster, maintenance, repairs, and fuel costs all go up. Things like that not only need to be factored into the cost of ownership, they also can cause issues because it's more difficult to budget for a random $2000 repair than a $286 payment. You don't need to have 3 grand in a car repair emergency fund if you're driving a Civic with a bumper to bumper warranty. You also generally don't have to worry about what you're going to do if your car ends up in the shop for days at a time. Also, reliable used cars are rare and valuable. Everybody wants a Honda, no one wants a FIAT. You pay through the nose for brand reputation. You can often save a lot up front if you're willing to assume a bit of repair risk - particularly if you're even slightly competent with a wrench and can tolerate occasional annoyances. The difference between the most and least in reliability isn't that great anymore.
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Feb 11, 2017 18:20
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Motronic posted:That is absolutely untrue. Even if you really, really like paying finance charges you are likely to be upside down on that loan during most of it, which means getting pretty screwed if you total the thing and were counting on an insurance payout to make you whole. And the odds of that happening are quite small. Beyond that, your actual loss will only be a few grand, at most. It would suck but it isn't catastrophic. If your finances are so tight that that is an unacceptable risk, you're buying more car than you can afford in the first place. With interest rates as low has they have been for the last decade, the difference in finance charges between three and five years is almost nil. With the durability of modern cars, five years is quite reasonable as a financing term.
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Feb 12, 2017 04:20
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prom candy posted:Are any of the newer tech features from the past few years must-have? I would love to have a backup camera in my CR-V but it has a tire sticking off the back of it. Cross-traffic sensors in the rear bumper are useful, as is blind-spot monitoring. I've got both on my car and they're very helpful. Not necessary, but good to have. I've also got adaptive headlights that turn with me and light the road ahead on curves, rather than the ditch I don't want to drive into. That's also nice. LED headlights, as well. Something useful I don't have is adaptive cruise control, which will maintain a safe distance to the car in front of you on the highway, slowing you down if you get too close. I wouldn't call any of them "must haves" but YMMV. They're worth getting if they're available and you can afford them.
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Feb 13, 2017 19:14
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prom candy posted:Push-button start weirds me out. Something about turning the key just feels right. I've concluded it's pretty awesome. The keys never leave my pocket. Push a button on the handle, the doors unlock. Push a button on the dash, the car starts. Open the fuel filler, trunk, whatever. Then it all locks itself again when I walk away. Something else that's not at all necessary, but definitely cool if you can get it.
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Feb 14, 2017 05:33
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BMWs are worse than FIATs on reliability. They also cost a fortune to fix. Actually none of the cars available with the characteristics you want are very high on the reliability scale. It's all relative. They'll be better than your 2005, anyway. You might also consider: MINI Cooper Countryman AWD Saab 9-3 Subaru Forester/Impreza Volvo V50/70 Audi quattro That's about it for AWD wagons. Edit: Found a couple more possibilities. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Feb 15, 2017 |
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Feb 15, 2017 16:32
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Slate a BMW for reliability and recommend a used Mini. Great advice. They're all terrible. If he's already considering a BMW, a MINI is no worse.
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Feb 15, 2017 16:40
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martinlutherbling posted:I should say, I've basically written the BMW off due to reliability and ownership cost issues. What gen of Audis should o be looking at? Are any of them really reliable? Since Audis are more expensive to begin with, they're going to be older to depreciate into your price range. 2004-2008 MY, generally - about as old as your current Subaru. NADA has a neat car finder tool. You select exactly the characteristics and price you want, an it spits out possibilities for you. Audis seem to vary a lot in their reliability depending on model and year. Once you have a specific car in mind you can research it.
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Feb 15, 2017 20:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:buy another WRX, but get the limited. Or get a legacy GT. That was my take. What he really wants is a 2012 or so Subaru, or else give a bit on some of his requirements.
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Feb 15, 2017 23:33
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martinlutherbling posted:You're right, a quick search confirms it. Oh well... Subaru is about your only choice with all your boxes ticked. If you ease up on your demands a bit the number of possibilities opens up. Is there anything you can live without?
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Feb 16, 2017 04:28
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martinlutherbling posted:In terms of what? I'm definitely open to hearing options and suggestions. I'd like something fun to drive, reliable, mt, awd, 2010 or newer, and $15k Some of those are mutually exclusive. Everybody wants cars like that, so they're scarce and consequently not cheap. You wanted a wagon but not an SUV - there's not a lot of difference between them. Do you really need AWD? It adds cost and limits your choices quite a bit. Reliability costs a ton up front to save money later. Going with a less reliable brand and accepting the repair risk can save a lot of bucks and get you a newer car. For example, you may be able to pick up a FIAT 500L or X still under warranty for $15k. Some 2014 Jeeps can be had for less than that, as well. While those cars are less reliable than their peers of the same vintage, they'd be better than something older. Without AWD, something like a 2012 Odyssey becomes possible - it's huge compared to a Subaru, but it's dead reliable. A 2013 CR-V also comes in under $15. Play around with that NADA car finder I posted earlier. Test some scenarios and see what pops up. You may surprise yourself.
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Feb 16, 2017 15:46
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nm posted:It is Indiana, they could all just be assholes. Yeah, I know - but something has to give. If he wants anything other than a Subaru he has to be more flexible. More than once I've had to put up with a boring car because it filled too many other important needs. Only he can decide what really matters most.
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Feb 16, 2017 19:13
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martinlutherbling posted:Fair enough. For the sake of argument, let's say AWD isn't a necessity. What are my options then? How about if I bump my budget to $18k or so? There are some pretty nice Mazdas that open up, then. Lots of gadgets, good quality, fun to drive. A 2015 Mazda3 hatchback is only around $13k.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:40
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ShadeofBlue posted:Is seeing a manual transmission car that has had the clutch replaced at 80k miles a red flag? There's a Mazda 3 that's been reposted a few times over the last couple of weeks on Craigslist, and I never really gave it a second look since it sounded like it was not driven responsibly. I haven't even compared the price to KBB or whatever, but maybe it's worth a look? 80k isn't out of line for a clutch. It depends both on how and where it was driven. A lot of stop and go driving, or lots of hills requiring a large number of shifts can make them wear out faster. If it was all highway driving, then yes, it's a problem. You can look the car over to see if it has other signs of hard driving. Personally, I wouldn't be all that concerned about it in isolation.
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Feb 21, 2017 04:39
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Gumbel2Gumbel posted:My parents are trying to get rid of one of their cars since they don't need 2. I still have my trusty 2003 Corolla that is low mileage and needs some suspension work. I was just planning on driving it into the ground because I don't really car about what kind of car, but they keep asking me. So take the Rav4 and enjoy yourself. Some college kid would appreciate your Corolla. You're not obligated to drive into the ground just because you planned to.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:41
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TipsyMcStagger posted:What is the cheapest new car 4 door sedan with all wheel drive, Bluetooth and heated seats in North America? Subaru Impreza, Jeep Renegade, Mitsubishi Lancer, Fiat 500X, or a Mazda CX-3. They all list at about 20k. All should have Bluetooth, but it depends on what option package gets you heated seats and current dealer incentives.
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Feb 26, 2017 04:06
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Twerk from Home posted:What's wrong with Chevy Sonics or Cruzes as far as reliable utility cars go? Either of them seems better than a Corolla. Cruze seems to be mid-pack in reliability. Not terrible, but not great. Sonics seem to be pretty good for their class. If reliability is all that matters, you can't beat a Corolla. For most people, reliability matters less than they think it does. Maintenance issues on a car you love bother you a lot less (up to a point) than on one you hate. Most new cars today are actually quite reliable and the difference between the top and bottom is a lot smaller than it used to be. Hence my advice is usually to find a car or two that really fit your own personality, and let their relative reliability be a tie-breaker.
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Feb 27, 2017 20:42
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:These two statements are incorrect if you go by consumer reports surveys (which while their subjective reviews are poo poo, their reliability ratings are pretty well done surveys). CR's ratings are a data point, not gospel. I've noticed over the years that their reliability ratings often don't match up to reality and I haven't really trusted them for decades. All ratings are fundamentally educated guesses and several should be considered together in making a decision. A couple critiques of CR's ratings are here and here.
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Feb 27, 2017 23:41
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:basically yes I would like to see some numbers to back that up.
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Feb 28, 2017 04:40
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antiga posted:Are car selling questions OK for this thread? It's worth about $1000, tops, if it's actually running, according to Kelley Blue Book. You're right at the borderline of whether it's worth it to fix it and sell it or just junk it. Fixing it up and trying to sell it is a hassle, and you probably wouldn't net more than $200 in the end anyway. I'd junk it and use the cash as a deposit on another one. Perhaps a CL ad for $300 as is would be worth a shot. I wouldn't wait too long for a buyer, though.
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Feb 28, 2017 16:51
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Coredump posted:Can I get a sanity check on this car? https://atlanta.craigslist.org/eat/cto/6011366360.html According to Kelley Blue Book, in excellent condition it's worth $8700. Seems significantly overpriced to me, but it's a matter of what it's worth to you.
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Mar 1, 2017 23:19
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Gamesguy posted:Proposed Budget: $5-10k USD Any car in that price range is going to be old enough that stuff will start wearing out, so they're all going to need repairs occasionally. Less reliable cars will likely need repairs somewhat more often, but nothing will be "never." Cars with a less reliable reputation depreciate faster and will cost less up front - you may be able to pay for a lot of repairs with the money you save. Initial build quality will matter less than the upkeep an individual car has gotten, so YMMV on repairs. Your body style options depend a bit on if your load is one big thing (which would suggest a minivan/SUV or station wagon), or if it's a bunch of small things that can be lifted over a sill (so it could be a hatchback). Something like a Scion xB has a huge cargo area and gets over 30 mpg. Toyota or Subaru wagons are also in the picture. A VW Golf diesel would get 40+ mpg. Ford Escapes have a lot of cargo room, too. Perhaps a Mazda Tribute in the SUV class. The Mazda 3 has a surprisingly large cargo area with the rear seats down as a hatch. Basically, there's lots of possibilities. Look at what's available in your area and maybe winnow it down a bit.
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Mar 5, 2017 19:51
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Gamesguy posted:I guess TCO instead of reliability then, I fully expect this car to get dinged to crap and plan on keeping it till it dies. The cargo is just something I'd like to have, it's annoying to have to borrow a car when I want to move a bulky item. So since it's a second car I figure I'd throw that in, regardless I doubt I'll need to move anything that won't fit in a hatchback like a Honda Fit. My recommendation would be to find something that connects with you emotionally. The actual difference in TCO between various cars in that bracket isn't going to be all that different on average, so it's going to depend a lot on the individual car. You won't mind spending money to maintain a car you like, while you'll resent every penny spent on one you don't. Drive it until it's more trouble than it's worth, then dump it and get another one. You won't have all that much invested in any case. If you like the Prius, get one. Grab anything you like that was maintained well.
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Mar 5, 2017 21:17
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Gamesguy posted:How about a 2012 Focus? I know they aren't great for reliability but they're pretty cheap and I can just drive it till it's not worth fixing anymore. Made Car and Driver's 10Best list in 2012. Look at the repair records - if it's made it this far without anything major falling off it's probably a pretty good one.
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Mar 7, 2017 03:04
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If hauling lots of people is the main requirement, get a minivan. Odysseys are very nice. The new Pacificas are supposed to be pretty great, too.
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Mar 17, 2017 14:24
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nm posted:For the record, the prius is the perfect not expensive car that don't say cheap. People will just think you like polar bears and poo poo. You pay for that in mind-numbing boredom, though. It's the car for people who don't like cars.
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Mar 17, 2017 20:05
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TheReverend posted:Awesome. Thanks bud. Lexus is kinda what I am after once I move later this year. They tend to be high cost/high reward vehicles. Being in them and driving them is wonderful so their owners love them, but they tend to require a lot of maintenance and everything costs twice as much.
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Mar 19, 2017 17:29
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prom candy posted:Initial quality just tracks problems in the first 90 days or something doesn't it? Yeah, and as I recall, it doesn't track severity of the defects, just number of them (at least it didn't used to). So a loose trim piece is just as bad a wheel falling off. These guys seem to have the best methodology, but it's based on UK warranty claims - so it's of limited utility in the US.
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Mar 20, 2017 02:29
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prom candy posted:I've heard Focus ST owners saying their reliability rating is BS because it's all MyFord issues. I've also heard GTI owners saying they're very reliable if you stick to the maintenance schedule and don't tune them. That's part of the problem. Some companies have regular service intervals where they periodically replace belts and hoses and stuff whether it needs it or not, and you may run up an $800 bill for it all - but it's "maintenance." Another company prefers letting them go until they break, and then it's a "repair." That's part of why American cars have traditionally looked so bad compared to the Japanese.
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Mar 20, 2017 02:38
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Coredump posted:Car in Georgia in advertised at $9271 and they say out the door tax, tag, title, dealer fees would be $10030. Sound about right? Sales tax alone is about $370 on that, so $400 for the rest isn't too outrageous. Title and tag are usually about $100, give or take.
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Mar 20, 2017 20:41
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Deeters posted:I've been paying off student loans for the past 5 years, and have around $40k left to go. I've never missed a payment and have above a 750 credit score. I'm looking at buying a car soon for under $8k, and will have enough cash saved up to not take out a loan. Is that small of a car loan going to help my credit later on? If you're trying to build your credit score, a small loan you can easily pay back will help more than paying cash, yes.
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Mar 22, 2017 01:49
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