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Shipon
Nov 7, 2005
I'm going to need a car pretty soon for college, but I frankly have no idea where to start. My question is - I'm on a limited budget (probably $3000-4000), so is it possible to find a car that won't break down the moment you purchase it? I don't know anything about maintaining a car, and I don't really have any mechanically inclined friends either, so what should I be on the lookout for? I just need a small, efficient car (preferably manual transmission, as that's what I'm used to driving) to get from apartment to school and work.

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Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Leperflesh posted:

Zipcar or similar? I know they're in LA, although I'm not sure if it works out economically for you - those deals tend to be best for someone who doesn't need a car every single day all day.

You don't necessarily need to know all that much to buy a decent used car. Be willing to take any used car you consider to a mechanic for a full inspection, and you're in good shape. If you want, you can run cars past us for opinions. Or maybe you can find an agent to buy you a good car?

You say that you don't have time to learn about a good car for $3k. Honestly I think a good car in LA is going to be more like $4-5k, if by "good" you mean consistently reliable in LA traffic. For $3k you're going to get a car with a lot of miles on it which has (presumably) been driven for most of those miles in horrible LA stop-and-go traffic and heat. It's not impossible to get a reliable beater under those conditions of course, but you'll need to be patient.

The best thing about buying a used car, though, especially at the $3k to $5k range, is that it will retain most of its value (unless you gently caress it up). So after your one year you can sell it for almost as much as you bought it for, and that offesets all of the higher maintenance costs and then some.

Also, although the LA area will be full of high-mileage beaters, the best thing is it's a gigantic market. There are literally thousands of used cars for sale every day, so you have a large number to pick from. And, they'll all be pretty much rust-free, due to the climate, so the main things to look for will be something with OK miles (I'd say under 150k) that passes inspection by a mechanic and has no title problems (do not buy a car with a rebuilt or salvage title).

This is another very good point. If you live in LA, leasing is a super dumb option when you're driving 40 miles a day to get around.

Why exactly do you need a car? Can you literally not get around to work at all or do you just want one for social purposes? I know its tough in LA without a car, but can you use the bus or trains? If so, you should suck it up, because it's going to hurt a lot less than leasing a car or outright renting for a year.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Daeus posted:

So you understand that your lease payment if for the depreciation, yet don't understand why we think it is a bad idea to lease the car for the first year which is where is takes far and away the biggest depreciation hit?

All major car rentals have monthly terms available. Often you have to call a particular location to get a quote but I know several people who did month long rentals. With a rental like this you aren't responsible for car maintenance either which will include some costs over a year.

If you don't need a car all the time, it can be much cheaper to just do zip car. Pay only for when you actually need it, and it starts are $8/hour and that includes everything (gas, maintenance, insurance, etc). This is probably the best option.

Zipcar in Los Angeles is pretty lovely and hard to use outside of a few lucky areas. You basically need a car of your own in this city, but his best option is to find a $3-5k car instead of leasing a new one.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

PrettyhateM posted:

I live in San Francisco and I am starting new job in cupertino at the beginning of the year. This is about a 50 mile drive all highway. I havent owned a car in 6 years so its been awhile. But I have about 10k saved right now in my savings account and I was referred to this "broker" that people seem to love in the city. He showed me this car.
http://www.mycarguy-sf.com/2004-honda-civic-hybrid.html

Seems like a great deal maybe. But I am worried about the batteries in it. Either way I am just confused on what I should do financially...

Should I blow my entire savings on a car? Should I get a car loan from a credit union and put down a 5k downpayment on something? How does that work, do I find a car first then go to the bank or do I go to the bank first?

I am thinking what I should do is get a loan and pay about half of the car in cash. Then maybe the loan will help my credit? Or should I get a beater for 5k and call it a day?

Some things to consider, the smaller the car the better, parking in the city sucks. And since it is in the city I cant care if it gets banged up from people parking next to it. That being said maybe I shouldn't get an expensive car, YET I need a car that reliable to commute.

Ugh everything feels like a catch 22.

Buy a Smart car if you're concerned with the parking, and then drive to the Caltrain station and take the train to Cupertino. 50 miles one way is a seriously lovely commute and hard on any car, and taking the train sounds like just as good of an option.

Shipon fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Dec 6, 2011

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005
I'm finally in the position where I'm making pretty good money and can afford something fun, so this is the first time I'm going to a dealer to buy a new car (all my cars up to this point have been <5k beaters off Craigslist with well over 100k miles). Been looking around and I found a dealer nearby that has a '24 GR Corolla Premium coming in the next few weeks and asked me for a $500 deposit to reserve the car, so I put the deposit down.

Dealer claims they don't do above-MSRP and the sheet they gave me with the suggested retail price has about 1k in extra stuff that I'm not terribly enthused about but I'm also not really going to get super in a fit about, total price a little under $42k. Toyota's financing rates seem to be absolute rear end (I have a ~770 credit score and their site says it's like 9.8% for a 60 month loan???) so I spoke with a local credit union and applied for a loan (hard credit pull) and they gave me a pre-approval at 6.5% for 60 months. Got a call from them, told them I was still waiting on the car to arrive but just applying in advance so I could come in with a counter offer for financing, but they said I needed a purchase order and proof of insurance before being able to approve the loan.

This seems like a chicken and egg situation to me - to get the car I need the loan but in order to get the loan I'd need to have a purchase order and insurance on a car I don't own yet. Is there something I'm missing or is this something dealers know how to handle fine?

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005
Dealership called me this morning saying the car's arrived. Spent about 2 hours in there, they tried the "here's 8k of warranties" but I pushed back pretty easily, didn't give too much fuss (I let them have the tire replacement plan, it wasn't too much). Didn't even try to sell me on gap or whatever (mainly because I put 30% down). Ended up paying ~43k before tax and registration, well within my budget (650/mo at 5.79%)

Now to figure out how these drat infotainment things work

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Steve French posted:

For what it’s worth this is not my lived experience; they’ve had best rates for me maybe a bit less than half the time. Most recently Bank of America had a much better rate than any other lender I looked at.

This is more to say that you shouldn’t take as gospel that CUs have best rates and only get offers from them, not that they don’t have the best rates: always shop around at CUs as well as big banks.

Yeah when I posted in this thread last month i saw someone suggest BofA and they ended up being almost a full point lower than the credit union (5.79 for BofA). It doesn't hurt to have multiple preapprovals.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Travic posted:

Well that was awe-inspiring. Did the test drive earlier today and yeah, that thing is fun. Wildly fun. I definitely need to look into getting one.

Now you're in for the fun part, finding one that they won't add 5-10k markup on top of.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005
My car came with wireless carplay and i really don't like how it's a second or two laggy to do any audio changes. I also wish the Qi charger actually worked with my phone, but I blame the dumbfucks at Apple who decided the camera needed to have a protruding bump out of the body instead of the body just being slightly thicker and flush with the camera.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

wesleywillis posted:

Jesus christ. Thanks gently caress my only MUST HAVE OR NO DEAL EVER poo poo is a Manual Transmission.

No, not trying to be all :smugdog: just saying that glad I don't have to give a gently caress about poo poo like that on something that would otherwise be the perfect vehicle


that is my biggest reason i refuse to go EV

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

ethanol posted:

one weird trick I used to get a Toyota special incentive financing was to come in having just totaled my brand new Toyota with 2000 miles on it therefore qualifying as a loyal returning customer

drat I hope the insurance company didn't stiff you on the value of it, what did you end up getting from them?

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

ethanol posted:

I got back $2k more than I paid for the car actually because I sent the adjuster a bunch of annoying messages about Tacomas being marked up (it was during covid)

oh drat nice

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

jokes posted:

Big agree. Everyone asking what car to buy should ask first "should I just get a Prius" first.

Pretty much everyone I've known with a Prius has had their catalytic converter stolen, and that's quite an expensive replacement

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Nitrox posted:

I'd like to point out that Hyundai did a recall and somehow fixed the easily bypassed ignition issue. The insurance rates did not subside. It might take another year or two for statistics to catch up.

Thieves aren't gonna know a fix has been made, they'll bust your car open anyway and gently caress up your ignition trying to get it to work

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005
They need to make a prius with a manual transmission like the first gen insight. Actually, honda just make the og insight again

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, the Toyota tax is real and absurd. The last time I shopped them was when I bought a '98 Ranger in 2011, and for the same money a Taco would've been 10+ years older. The Pinto motor in the Ranger was far from modern but it did at least have an OBD2 fuel injection system (and never once set a code in the time I owned it). A Taco at the same price would've either been carbureted or very early fuel injection and I had zero desire then (even less now) to deal with those on a not-project vehicle.

A quick poke at my local Autotrader for Colorado vs Tacoma in the $15-19k price range has six 2015-and-newer Colorados with under 100k miles, one of which is even a mid-trim (LT) crew cab instead of the base trim (W/T) extended cab. Also two more with just over 100k. There's only one Tacoma of any age under 100k in that same price range, a 2017 with nine owners and at least three accidents, one flagged as "structural damage", on the Carfax.

They're good trucks overall, especially if you don't live in the rust belt. They just command way too much money for what you get (arguably, even when new) compared to the competition.

Everyone spent so long telling people to "just buy a Toyota" it ended up making everyone with a Toyota car think they have something more valuable lol

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Everybody that hauls poo poo wants a van with fold flat seats. Everybody that commutes wants a Prius.

Everyone regardless of status wants a station wagon. This is the way of the world.

drat the CAFE standards that stole station wagons from us

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Thermos H Christ posted:

So we think we know what car we want to buy, and we’ve found it in stock at multiple dealers. We’ve asked for and gotten the supposed out the door price from a few of them. What is our next move as far as negotiating?

As we have asked for prices we’ve been cagey about whether we’d finance or pay cash but we do intend to finance through the dealership with a bit less than half the purchase price down. At what point do we admit this?

Don't admit to it. Come to them with a preapproval from another bank and let them try to match or beat it. If you finance through them, wait 2-3 months and then just pay it off. Unless you're buying at a buy-here-pay-here lot it's most likely just a simple interest loan so you'll only have to pay interest for 3 months, and if you let them think you'll make them money on the financing they'll be more likely to cut you a deal elsewhere.

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Motronic posted:

It's not just Ram. People have had it with $85k strip model trucks and $100k well equipped trucks. The lots are overflowing with them at Dodge, Ford and Chevy too. They finally pushed too far and with interest rates what they are the kind of person who would spend 6 figgies on a measly 1/2 ton pickup (read: toy, not a truck capable of real truck-type work) simply can't afford it. In that same price range but targeted at a very different market segment, Porsche can't seem to keep Macans and Cayennes in stock however.

the amount of people who buy 90k trucks while calling themselves "working class" but think someone buying a macan is a bougie is lol

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

Guinness posted:

As a rule, every new generation of a car model gets bigger and fatter and more expensive. A 2024 CR-V is two generations newer than your 2013 and in a segment where most buyers place passenger and cargo volume at the top of their list so that's what new models focus on.

"but they're safer!"

has safety meaningfully made any improvements since, like, the early 2000s? seems like all its done now is made them even more deadly to pedestrians due to higher weight

Shipon
Nov 7, 2005
don't pay for the car in cash right away. just come in with financing preapproval or go with the dealer's bank and pay off the loan in a month before more than a trivial amount of interest accrues. unless you're going to a buy here pay here lot you're only gonna be dealing with a simple interest loan so no worries about early payoff penalties

as ethanol said if they think they can get you on the financing they may cut you a deal on the car price, but the "bad loan" won't matter if you pay off the whole thing at the first statement

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Shipon
Nov 7, 2005

zedprime posted:

Your goal/trigger point for getting a cashier check is signing a purchase agreement or invoice. Sometimes dealerships let you do this remotely but it's not super popular yet. You may be asked to do a partial down payment by debit or credit card as part of finalizing the agreement before they agree you can have the car while you go back to the bank. You will want to plan like 4 hours of your day to deal with all this poo poo.

It's not a bad idea to just traipse in dum de dumb and take another test drive of the car you're actually going to purchase. There's sometimes small defects that can be warranty repaired while you work on paperwork and they do the old new car out the door detailing.

Normally I'd agree paying cash for a car is pants on head stupid but interest rates right now, hoo boy. I'd hedge and put half down if I had no interest in financing and plan to close out in a couple months assuming my situation still made cash make sense. Besides the sales process consider all angles of what that money can do for you compared to investment and retirement accounts, healthcare funds, home improvement etc. and even the current rates can melt away into free positive liquidity.

Yeah even on excellent credit rates are just under 6% right now. Unless you go with the manufacturer subsidized loans but those usually only apply to models no one wants to buy without a discount.

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