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Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Try as I might, I couldn't get the wires and poo poo through the dash. Who cares. I have gauges now. 20 inches of vacuum at idle, air/fuel ratio in the 11's during WOT, seen a peak of about 15psi of boost. Used the second O2 sensor bung on the driver side of the X pipe for the wideband.

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Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Can't get in to have my Stifflers subframes put on until 4 weeks. Oh well. Supposed to snow tonight and I'm vacation next week.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Had the Stifflers subframe connectors out on. Such a huge difference. If you have an SN95 and don’t have them, get a set.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!


Don’t know about Canadian prices but that probably the cheapest your going to find a 5.0 convertible with that few miles

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Haven't posted in a while, done a couple little projects on the car.

Pulled the NGK TR6 spark plugs that were in there, they looked fine but I replaced them with some Autolites that were gapped at 0.028"



2.70" Griptec pulley. I had a 2.62" Vortech pulley on there but everyone says you get a ton of slip with a pulley that small on a 6 rib. Not sure if this is giving me a hair more boost up top or not. Should have logged before/after.

The other benefit is it's a two-piece pulley so future changes will be faster. It wasn't too bad to heat the existing pulley up with a torch, it slid right off.



Top would go half way down, and had to be put up manually. Ugh. Easy fix, take the back seat out and fill the motor with ATF. Also got to vacuum some leaves and poo poo out of the back when I was in there. Also removed a Mach 460 amp that isn't being used anymore.



Got rid of the janky HID conversion. One was bluish and the other more purple so it looked even stupider. Will offer these to some kid with a New Edge if I meet any.



A wild 1995 Mustang GT appears!



Actually, it's my mom's car. Has been stalling on her and it's low on power. Plugs were toast, they've probably been in the car over 20 years since when she got it. Also put a fuel filter in it. Has a vacuum leak or something, idles low but at least you can powerbrake it now.



Finally got to race another car! Ran into a guy with a 13/14 5.0 with a sticker on his car that said '40 roll'. Works for me. Gave him the hit and beat him a couple times, spinning through 2nd. I'm not going faster than 65 unless we're out in the middle of nowhere. He pulled up on the side of me and said I was blowing white smoke. I asked if it was the tires but he said it was doing it even at slow speeds, so we pulled over and I popped the hood. Antifreeze gushing out the rear of the motor and smoke pouring out of the engine bay. Whoops. Better take it straight home and figure it out tomorrow. Figured I popped a heater hose or something. He said he had a Cobra Jet intake, tune and exhaust but we didn't get to talk much.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gi9tWqg-Fww

Ford Performance Parts 4.6 PI intake manifold to the rescue. My car is a 2000 so it already has a PI motor, but this is the updated intake with the aluminum front crossover.



Here's the crack in the front part of the intake.



SON OF A loving BITCH IT IS ALWAYS SOMETHING. Broke an alternator bolt off. I tried to cut a slot in it and try to get it out with a screwdriver, unsuccessfully tried an easy out. I want to drive this car since it's been down for a loving week and I've already not fixed my mom's car. So I just bought a loving alternator at the parts store for $230. I'll keep the other one since it works, maybe someone can use it and put their housing on the guts.



This is the intake all torn off. Didn't even take an hour.



Putting it back together took about 3 hours between having to go to the parts store, twice, and other poo poo. Runs fine now. Enjoying a cruise with the wife at the local Sonic.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Installed Koni yellows at all four corners. Rides awesome now.

Also replaced all my ignition coils with a new set from MSD. Motorcraft are best but these were cheaper and I don’t drive the car much. Fixed my park blowout or misfire or whatever was happening at high loads.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Broke my second parts store remanufactured alternator in less than 500 miles

Ordering one from KMJalts, should fix my problem.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Hopefully the last changes to the car in a while.

When I swapped the intake manifold, a bolt broke off in the factory alternator. Ended up burning 2 parts store remans in just a couple drives so I bought one from KMJ.



It's quite a bit bigger and a little more annoying to swap out because the lower screws go through instead of the alternator just sliding on. But maybe it'll be more sturdy. Scratched an idler pulley when I was taking the belt off, so I had to sand it smooth.

Also, the instrument bezel had some kind of scuffs on it or maybe someone cleaned it with something harsh. Anyway, replaced that with a $30 one from eBay, looks a hundred times better.





Still want to get an aluminum driveshaft and diff cover. And maaaybe switch the wheels out but I just bought tires so that wouldn't make sense.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

Which vendor on Ebay did you use for the bezel, I may be interested in getting one as I didnt know you could buy it just like that. I thought you had to buy the whole thing.

Also diff covers, you looking to get an FRPP or something with a drain and input plugs? or something to connect a 4 link suspension on it?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/99-thru-04...1-127632-2357-0


Just a FRPP cover, nothing fancy

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Decided to put cats on the car.



Much quieter, doesn't stink like exhaust fumes, and now it sounds "like a Mustang" with the H pipe. The old snarl from the X pipe was pretty nasty though.

It's a sleeper now!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNCSYmC2ib4

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Couple minor things done to the car this weekend:

Replaced Eibach Sportlines with Ford Racing B springs. Went from 2" drop to about 1", tired of scraping my X pipe on the ground and it also rides way better. Also hoping for more weight transfer to the rear for some more tracton

Replaced the tinted taillights with some Chinese factory-looking ones. Won't look like a high schooler anymore.

Replaced stock shifter with a Tri-ax knockoff. Should just be saving my money for a T56 swap but whatever.

Sold my Nitto NT-05R's (315/35-17), going to either run a 275/60-15 drag radial next year or a MT ET Street

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

If you really want weight transfer, springs are not the way to do it, you need full length subframes. poor chassis rigidity leads to poor weight transfer.
Torque arm and LCA will transfer more energy to the wheels.
Are you dragging the car? rear springs should be really mushy if you want weight transfer. if you are daily-ing it 300 to 350lb would be good too.

Subframes are one of the first things I do to my cars. I have LCA's as well. Considering the torque arm setup but I think I want to make more power and get a real trans first.

I really don't want to stick 90/10's and drag springs on it. Might try a 15" wheel and 275/60 drag radials this spring. But I know I need to go to a bias ply since I have a stick.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

I sold my 2000 and am buying "a way older one" (according to my wife). It's a 97 that makes another hundred HP and has a T56.

I had just replaced the blowoff valve, serpentine belt and tensioner, replaced the supercharger, replaced the air filter that couldn't have possibly been letting an air through, and found a big hole in an intake elbow from rubbing on the AC purge vent thing.

Kid drove it home with snow on the ground. :wtf:

I told him that gas had been in there since December and to run the tank through it before doing anything dumb....called me when he got home ask why the car wouldn't run (blew an intercooler pipe off, the one I had just put back on). I stayed up half the night putting the car back together so I hadn't even test drove it yet (wouldn't anyway as it had SNOWED THAT DAY)

I was considering buying a 12-14 Coyote and putting a either a Beefcake Paxton on it or a 2.3 TVS, but you can't find one of those cars for under $20k right now and they used to be like $15,000.

Also I sold my replica Saleen wheels to some idiot who drove two hours to TRY THEM ON HIS CAR. He used the spare tire jack to put one on. Couldn't get his wheel off and then when we put his back on you could tell the hub was in the way so...ugh









Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

So a guy came to buy your wheels and wanted to test fit them but they wouldnt fit. so did he end up taking them still? I am confused as how the hub was in the way?

He had an S197. I told him the offsets wouldn't be right and they would stick out about. But people run them...

He shows up and jacks up the rear of the car with this spare tire jack. Even brought a piece of wood to drive up on so he could get the jack under there!

I got my cordless impact out (I would have gotten my jacks out but they were under my car) and zipped the lugs off for him. Wheel was stuck so we took turns kicking it.

We put my wheel on and lower the car. Take turns jumping on the rear to see if the fenders would touch when you put weight on it. Everything seemed okay. I didn't want to try mounting a front one so I just said you know if you don't like them just sell them when you get home.

He pulls out the cash so we load the other 3 wheels up and he jacks the car up again and we take my wheel off. He goes to put his wheel back on, and uses my impact to put the wheel lugs on. He of course doesn't use a criss-cross pattern, he just goes around the world You can see the wheel shifting around and the lugs are actually tightening the wheel down because the inner hub is too small on the brakes or axle or whatever. Showed him that he needs to grind down the inside of his wheels (center bore?) that he currently has so they will go on 'right'.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

Ok I get it now, I just assumed it was going onto the same type of car. I forgot people try to make different models fit. Totally makes sense now.

I would not have done half the sh*t you offered to do. I would have been like if you pay for the wheels now you can do whatever you want with them outside my driveway, I am going back inside now.

I just wanted them out of my house and wanted the money. He was a total pain in the rear end.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

I am calling places to see about getting a super charger and for some reason the prices are above wild. I always thought 5k to 7k was the average price for a kit including install / tuning etc...

A procharger with a 3 core intercooler $5900
Upgrade p1sc to d1sc +$ 470 (i think this is a good deal to get a d1sc since the price difference is only $470)
Install +$1400
Dyno/Tune +$ ? depends on how quick we can do the tune and everything is ok
bullet race valve +$ 295
Maf + SCT big air +$ 230
recommended engine test +$ 500 (recommended to me because of the extreme low mileage on a 20 year old car)

so after tax and what now I am looking at 10 to 11k - is that reasonable? I think its insane.


I forgot to add 175 for a fuel pump, and I just got a second quote and it came out and was 15% more expensive.

That sounds about right. Assuming you have a 96-04 car

Don't do the D1 upgrade. No point until you build your motor and you can still make 600+ on the P1

The engine test sounds like a load of poo poo. Just do a compression check.

You could put a kit together for less by yourself. Your own fuel pump and injectors. Your own blade-style MAF sensor. A power pipe and K&N filter.

Find a lightly used Vortech V3 Si supercharger and bracket. TurboSmart BOV. Put your own piping, silicon couplers and intercooler together. Then $100" on tuning etc (you could even do a mail order tune)

You could do it under $5000 that way. Plenty of money to spend on other poo poo like a boost gauge, wideband, etc

Then you'll need to get drag radials and suspension and maybe a clutch...never ends

This is when Coyote swaps start looking reasonable as far as costs go

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Double the price of the "build your own kit" since this thread is like 15 years old

https://mustangforums.com/forum/pipes-boost-and-juice/299111-1500-96-04gt-supercharger-kit-how-its-done.html

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

PIZZA.BAT posted:

I have a '19 fastback and have noticed that the rear folding seats are starting to squeak whenever I go over bumps or when the body rolls at all. I imagine it'd be pretty easy to resolve by just gluing a few key pieces of rubber pads in certain spots but I have no idea where the actual source of the squeaks is. Has anyone else dealt with this?

Is the seat material rubbing and squeaking or is it the metal frame?

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Picked up the new to me SN95 Cobra yesterday. She needs a little work I'll post pictures when it's not freezing out

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

I am not brave enough to try and piece everything together, I am sure I would get the wrong parts or not enough parts. I am pretty sure I can put it all together myself though its just I dont have that kind of time anymore because I have a toddler that follows me around everywhere. Do you suppose prices are like GPU and other computer parts and eventually prices will normalize? Should I just wait another year?

worst case scenario, perhaps I will just finish my suspension setup with a k-member and a-arms. Then I will have everything Maximum Motorsports makes on my car.

Yea little ones are basically taking all my car time as well

If you're going to get a k member maybe get a turbo kit instead?

It seems intimidating but there's not much to it.

I don't see prices coming down anytime soon. Trying to buy a cat back right now and there isn't poo poo in stock

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

davecrazy posted:

What year?

97

Built motor etc

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

mechaet posted:

Overdue bit of maintenance, swapping out the factory headlight housings for new OEM ones, and turn signal housings for euro style ones.





How much work is it to take that bumper off? Half hour?

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!


Changed the oil+filter (motorcraft), cleaned up some vaccum lines, made sure everything seemed to be in working order and took it for it's first real ride (other than driving it straight home). Feels as fast as my old car and I only took it up to 6000rpm. Bottom end is a definitely softer being a 4V with cams, but the 4.10's are nice and the T56 ratios are different than the T45/TR3650



I've had a married SCT that I picked up cheap a while back. Need to get a cheap ThinkPad to log with (not sure how much I can log on the device itself)



Speaking of T56, trying to figure out the ratios. I know it's an .80/.63 5th/6th and not the .74/.50, but not 100% if it's a 2.97/2.10/1.46 or 2.66/1.78/1.30 for the first three gears. I'll have to check RPM in 2nd gear at say 5,000



There are 18x9.5 Cosmis wheels on it, not my first choice but it's not as common as the standard Cobra/etc wheels. There was a 235/50 or something stupid narrow on the front, so I moved the 275 michelins that were on the back up front, and bought set of new Michelin 4S 285/35 to put on the rear. A lot sticker than I thought they would be so I'm happy about that. Was debating going with a 15x10 and putting a 275/50 drag radial on it but I think this will be fine.



Built 4.6, Paxton non-intercooled supercharger (more on that later)



It has this Magnaflow catback on it right now. https://turn5.scene7.com/is/image/Turn5/48013

Since it's every bit as loud and obnoxious as it looks, I'm taking it to the muffler shop tomorrow to have these Flowmaster FlowFX. They are Magnaflow/Dynomax style mufflers, made in China so they're pretty cheap (half price of Magnaflow). If they fall apart or sound like poo poo I'll swap them out with something else. Also got new tailpipes and flowtubes (that connect the muffler to the H/X pipe)



Since it's not intercooled, it has a meth injection setup. This is new to me so we'll see how it goes. Basically you can use pump gas + meth instead of race gas.

The last thing I have to figure out is the suspension. It's pretty low (not sure what coils) and it has Strange adjustable shocks. I set the rears to full firmness but I need to adjust the fronts. I couldn't get to them when I pulled over to play with it. Pretty bouncy, not sure if that's just how they ride or if they are worn. Worst case I'll put a new set of Koni's on it. Debating on whether I should buy a set of springs to try to raise it up a little bit. I haven't scraped on anything but it's pretty low. A slightly softer spring wouldn't be bad either.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

Would you consider coils for the fronts? Then you can dial in the height to whatever you want. It would also free up a little bit of space for wider tires down the road. Are you planning on competitively drag racing the car because ride height and spring softness/hardness would defintely need to be upgraded depending on your goals if you are doing a drag wheel setup. If you drag - dont you want your fronts to be all mush anyways?

I would also recommend kmember/panhard too, that made my car feel so much better. What kind of differential do you have in the car? something aftermarket would defintely help not have 1 wheel rippers if you are going with a drag setup?

I would consider a K member but probably not this year. I have 275's up front and wouldn't really want to go any wider, it already tracks all over the cracks and tar lines in the road.

It's convertible so I probably won't bother trying to race it at the track regularly. It has a Maximum Motorsports rollbar so I think at least they won't boot me after a fast. I don't have a truck/trailer anyway.

It has a ford racing diff with 4.10's, carbon fiber discs and 31-spline axles. Looks like someone pulled the billet differential cover that it used to have on it.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

My car tracks too with the wide fronts, but I just got used to it. Make sure the rollbar is welded in ;)
And it sounds like you got a built rear end just like me. it should hook up nice !!!!

All MM roll bars are bolt-in. Not NHRA legal without the harness mount as well.

I forgot to get the door swing outs from the guy so I'll have to meet up with him later. I don't think I'll ever install them but at least I'll have them.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

I am not going to go look it up to confirm but I did not know that about the MM roll bars being bolt in. That sounds crazy to me. Why would they sell something not race legal?
The door swings would be a pain in the rear end to use on a daily street car. I would only want to get a 4pt roll bar for that exact reason.

Exactly why i wouldn't even have them in the car after I get them.

The harness bar makes it legal. A bolt in cage is perfectly legal AFAIK. There are reinforcement plates you put on the other side of the floor pan.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

:smith:

While the rear shocks are Strange, I tried adjusting the struts up front and couldn't find the knob

So I take one of the wheels off. It's a loving Monroe strut. gently caress me.

Ordered a pair of Koni STR.T's to replace those with. Going to try to not switch the springs or the rear shocks just yet.

Muffler shop guy asked me "do you drink coffee in that car?"

Confused I replied back "no....why?"

"Because it rides like this!" *jumps up and down*

:lol:

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

I can swap front struts in like 40 minutes now



Hopefully get to see how these ride tomorrow. We'll see if I have to replace the rears too. These ones were 100% shot.

Got a new radiator cap, trying to track down a coolant leak now. One thing after another.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

Come on they are good struts, they are like $39 bucks! lol

What's funny is at Autozone the 'OEM equivalent struts' from Monroe or KYB are $120. The STR.T's are $120 (which says a lot) and the Koni Yellows or Bilsteins are $200+.

Maybe they were bought from RockAuto for $70. Sounds like a deal but shipping always seems to kill it.

Anyway, I'm ordering the Koni rear shocks today. I played around the the settings on the Strange shocks and they don't seem to make any difference.

Bob Morales posted:

Since it's not intercooled, it has a meth injection setup. This is new to me so we'll see how it goes.



HOW HAS IT NOT BLOWN UP

Interestingly enough the other nozzle looked clean but wasn't misting. Hit them both with some carb cleaner and good as new. Now I need to go log IAT's on a quick drive if it quits raining.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

The meth works



Couldn't find the IAT sensor, discovered it's not in the path of the meth.



Removed the Strange rear shocks, didn't care for how they rode no matter how I adjusted them



Replaced them with the Koni STR.T's to match what I put on the front. They're not bad so far.



Did a little data logging. IAT's get up there since there's no intercooler. I can't find any evidence of it not being tuned this way though. The IAT sensor doesn't appear to ever have been re-located. It would make sense to be after the meth nozzle so it reads cooler temps and can advance timing. But 17-18 at WOT in the upper RPM's seems about right (a couple more degrees would be a bit more power but then it's more dangerous). I'll just assume that's the way the car was tuned and at some point get it back to the same tuner/dyno and have them go over everything. Maybe stick an intercooler on it who knows. I'll just drive it for now.



Chasing down a very very slow coolant loss as well as a slow battery drain (all the SN95's seem to have that happen). Also need to figure out a switch or something for the T56 reverse lockout.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

I have only driven this car a handful of times but I always noticed a little antifreeze smell (pancake syrup)

I could never find a leak, though. Eventually it started losing enough to where the low coolant light came on, so I refilled the overflow tank. It lost enough to turn the light on again, so I filled it again, only to go into the garage the next day and see all the coolant on the ground.

Got the car up on jackstands and came to the conclusion that the radiator was cracked on the bottom of the passenger side. Went to O'reillys and got a aftermarket one. It should have been a 45 minute swap...



Pulled the old rad out in about 10 minutes



loving fan.



Let's look at the wiring



What happened to the factory cooling fan wiring? SOMEONE SNIPPED IT



Old vs new



Bought a generic fan to stick on there.



88 degrees and she's idling in the sun real nice. Fan came on once it hit 190 and it never went any higher.

Basically, some dipshit wired the fans to a manual switch inside the car. Why, I don't know. The switch basically melted so I was running with no fans but it's been cooler here so no big deal.

I reconnected the factory wiring to the new fan. Technically I could have gotten a dual fan or two speed fan, but I don't think I need it. I also has a skinny bitch 1" radiator instead of some loving aluminum fluidyne or mishimoto. I think this will be just fine, jamming one of those in the stock location is a PITA and probably overkill. I mean Ford designed these things to idle in Arizona in the summer without dying right?

Also my Crutchfield order showed up so now I have a bluetooth stereo. Harness connects it to the factory Mach 460 system with the amps, they sent me a kind of stupid wiring harness for the speakers so 1 of them isn't work but it sounds decent. Metra 70-5110 (?)

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

those snipped wires look awfully clean (as in not oxidated) could it have been a quick fix for some reason to get rid of the car quickly? Also that fan looks so tiny on that rad... you sure thats ok

as for a manual fan... LOL what the hell is the point in doing that

The factory fan settings are 214/208°F on/off for low speed, and 228/224°F on/off for high speed

214 is about 1 o'clock on the factory gauge so people see this freak out:



Idea being that if you car is running 'hot' it will pull timing. Everyone knows a car that's 180 at the very least feels faster than one that's at 210.

Then they do one of a couple different things:

Get a hand-held tuner and change the fan points to something like 190 and 210, making them come on earlier

Throw something in like a 170 degree thermostat which doesn't help

Hardwire the fans to a switch so they can turn them on at will. This can make some sense.

However, most people don't wire them up right and having the fans on so much ends up burning the fan motor out.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

The single wire fan I did would shut off after 190 and the second stage never turned on so it would still get hot

Ended up getting an OEM style dual-speed fan and shroud, removed the auxilury fan and all the switches...runs great in the 85-95 degree heat

Had some issues with the charge pipes not staying on, bought a foot long black 3" silicone tubing to fix that. Can cut whatever sizes I need out of it. Needed about an inch longer coupler than I had. Got two more t-bolt clamps too



Might check the plugs when I get some time. I have a set but never put them in.

Still waiting on Auto Meter to ship me a loving gauge pod. Been backordered for a while. JEGS said they had it in stock so I'm kind of pissed. Will probably replace all the vacuum lines I can find when I hook up the gauge (which wasn't backordered so I have had it for two weeks)

Interested in how much boost it's making/holding. Feels like it should be faster. Beat down a new widebody charger scatpack the other night.

Might look into why the shift light doesn't work. It comes on when you turn the key but doesn't turn on at 7000rpm or whatever it's supposed to be on at.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Latest adventures....

My catted X pipe showed up. Got a decent deal on a used one. Would have preffered and H pipe but whatever. It's quieter and less stinky now. This is the old one.



My gauge pod is apparently never going to come in. The air/fuel gauge that was in the car didn't quite work right or the sensor is bad so I just stuck the boost gauge there.



Even finally got the swingout bars for the roll cage. I'll probably just keep them in the garage but whatever.

I get everything going and its running good. Friday before the holiday, lots of peoples cars are out, weather is decent.

Pull into 7-11 for gas and smoke everywhere. Grind grind grind grind. Ugh.



At least I'm buddies with the tow driver now, so he was quick to get there.



Got it home and cleaned the bottom side of the car. Looks like the hard line was rubbing on the sway bar and a pinhole was all I needed to loose all my pressurized power steering fluid.



Being the holiday weekend I couldn't get the part until tomorrow (Wednesday). So it should be a quick and easy $30 fix.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

gently caress power steering lines I'm going to just take this to the shop. lovely thing is half of them are on vacation this week so I'll have to try to get scheduled this coming week...bought some crows foot wrenches from Harbor Freight but there's no 18mm one...



Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

You seem to be having a lot of bad luck with your car? Anything positive happening with it lately??

It's looking nice in the garage. Getting it over to the shop today, so hopefully I can have it by the weekend. It's a car that basically wasn't driven much by the previous owner who also didn't know much about cars. Hopefully the last issue I have with it for a bit. And then it'll be winter and it'll go up for the season...

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

kalvick posted:

I hear ya, I had a kid, so my car is driven even less now than ever before. I start it up to make sure it works and then drive around the block to move the fluids around in the car. Im really worried about the gas in the car, it has to be bad. I put stabil in it last year and its still a full tank. ugg.

I have two under 2 right now... My options for car time are after 830p or so once they are asleep and I don't have anything else to do, or that hour or two they are both asleep after lunch on the weekends. Or, if I work from home I can go gently caress with it in the garage on my lunch since they are at daycare.

Not really the kind of car for car seats or taking them out to ice cream at this age.

Anyway, I the shop called and they got the power steering line replaced. Also had them swap out the tailshaft seal on the T56 so I won't be dripping anymore. Raining out so I'll just drive it straight home and maybe take it out another day this week.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

Got the car back, runs great. Seems really quiet with the cats on it, need to make a video. Well, to me. My wife said it's still loud (she followed me home from the shop to pick it up) Topped off my transmission fluid, bought a box of plastic clips to re-attach my trunk liners and the passenger side fender liner. Pulled out the PLX gauge controller and wideband (https://www.plxdevices.com/PLX-MultiGauges-and-Sensors-s/108.htm), will probably stick it on marketplace. Also removed some random wires that were used for who knows what that I found in the car. Also got under the car and cleaned off some residual oil/gunk.

Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cq_m1IbS2z0

Quiet-ish

No annoying rasp when accelerating now

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Bob Morales
Aug 18, 2006


Just wear the fucking mask, Bob

I don't care how many people I probably infected with COVID-19 while refusing to wear a mask, my comfort is far more important than the health and safety of everyone around me!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL7a9ZlypRQ

Nothing has broke in like two weeks

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