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If you stick with Ryobi and don't mind spending a bit more for quality tools do keep in mind that Ryobi sells both brushless and non-brushless versions of many things, tools like circular and reciprocating saws it is definitely worth seeking out the brushless ones.
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Jan 15, 2019 05:01
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sweet_jones posted:Does anyone have a jigsaw they are happy with? I have the ryobi mentioned above and agree with the assesment. Brushless model or no?
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Jan 23, 2019 05:44
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If you're getting more performance out of the drill something is wrong with the impact, I had no problem driving 1/4 lag bolts with my regular non-brushless Ryobi impact and accidently drove a 3 1/2 deck screw half way through a 2x4 when I wasn't paying attention with ease. If you haven't had it long I'd suggest just returning it.
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Feb 5, 2019 05:07
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Did that speed test not seem off to anyone else? The hydraulic driver seemed to move at a pretty unremarkable speed while the "regular" driver seemed awfully slow for what seemed like a pretty light task. Edit: Seemed off enough I sought out another example and happened on this video which actually includes a surge compared to a number of other drivers. I can't speak for the quality of the tests or that specific channel but the impression I got was the surge is competent but unremarkable however, they actually had 2 Makitas one a hydraulic and one conventional brushless and the hydraulic actually did turn out to be stronger despite having a lower max power rating. Still though, the DeWalt which appeared to just be a regular brushless driver completely dominated and I find myself surprised just how big a gap there was between what're theoretically all premium brands. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvqar-4ZelA Elem7 fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Feb 5, 2019 |
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Feb 5, 2019 07:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:While we're in the vicinity, conversation-wise: I want to get a battery-powered string trimmer. I already have a bunch of Makita tools, so I'd like to stay with their ecosystem. They have two trimmers: one that takes one battery and costs $100, and one that takes two and costs $220 (both prices are tool-only). I assume the latter is for heavier duty and bigger yards. My needs are pretty light. Am I going to regret getting the smaller one? If you're just planning on using it to trim grass I'm sure it'll be fine, only reason I could see to need more power is if you'll be doing brush work or edging.
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Mar 17, 2019 07:24
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If your thought is the 18v Ryobi isn't powerful enough for you but the brushless Makita will be I would just like to point out that Ryobi sells both a brushless and... brushed? non-brushless? version as well. Don't know which version you bought but the brushless Ryobi if you haven't tried it may be perfectly fine for "light duty" stuff where you don't want to pull out your corded one. If you did buy the non-brushless you may want to consider just returning it in exchange for the brushless if you already have the Ryobi battery system. I used a brushless Ryobi, with a Milwaukee blade, to chop an old screw drive garage door opener into pieces that'd fit into a trash can, wasn't quick but that's not really a light duty job either and I believe I got it done with one already partially used battery.
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Mar 27, 2019 20:28
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If you do decide to get Ryobi tools remember they offer brushed and brushless versions of most stuff. The brushless versions cost more but are going to be more comparable to higher end tools like Milwaukee's as far as power, run time and reliability is concerned while still being cheaper than them. For some things like driver's it's debatable whether it matters for basic home owner stuff but for saws, for instance, it makes a huge difference.
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Jun 13, 2019 00:06
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They make metal cutting blades for circular saws to so that's an option. I'm assuming these panels are relatively thin sheets.
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Sep 18, 2019 19:13
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Mr. Mambold posted:I just put a 4/12 roof on a greenhouse with ryobi tools and the circular saw went through about a half charge. Just barely cuts thru 2x4's but that's enough. I'm assuming that's the non-brushless version and the crummy blade it came with? Even Ryobi has a brushless 7 1/4 saw that really shouldn't be having trouble with 2x4s, it's a left hand side blade model too. Unless you need to do a lot of cuts over a short time, which is unlikely for a home DIYer, I really don't see any reason to avoid cordless saws.
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Oct 12, 2019 05:13
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I don't know about them discontinuing it but the $350 price has been common for most of 2019 at least and probably has nothing to do with whether or not its an end of life item. I had been looking at that model for awhile but because I wanted to setup a miter station against a wall in my garage I decided to go with Makita's 10'' slider that has the bars in the front not the back like the Kapex. During the holidays they were down to $450 at Home Depot and Amazon.
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Jan 23, 2020 19:47
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On that subject would anyone here recommend against buying a Tormek for woodworking and general edge(kitchen knives, axes etc.) sharpening? I've been doing all my sharpening with sandpaper up till now and was thinking about moving up to diamond stones plus water stones but after looking at the all in price to get setup it doesn't really seem significantly cheaper than a nice power sharpener. I considered the work sharp initially but decided if I was going to spend the money I'd like something more versatile. Seems like you can sharpen just about anything on a Tormek, I was a little concerned about the standard Tormek wheels only going to 1000 grit at first, though that doesn't seem to stop Youtuber's from getting crazy end-grain shaving sharpness.
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Feb 11, 2020 06:10
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Maybe you're seeing a different price than me but that's a long ways from "a bit" at the $279 I'm seeing, thats closing on 36V Makita territory. You haven't really said what use you expect to get out of this saw other than its enough to not be worth renting one but if that until recently was a reasonable option for you I really don't see any reason to think you're going to wear out that brushless Ryobi. I'm sure you won't be disappointed in the Milwaukee so go for it but I will point out 2 things, the Ryobi is a left-hand side blade which some people could care less about and others like myself find really useful for certain cuts and if you're getting this for cutting dimensional lumber you should consider a miter saw instead of or in addition to a circular saw if you're looking for accurate repeatable cuts.
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Apr 7, 2020 06:56
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Yah unless you have some super tight space you're building something to go into most measurements are relative, just use the same measuring tape and don't worry about how far off it is from some ultimately arbitrary measurement unit. If you really really need some smaller rulers that match you can try finding some that run long at the store, line them all up against a straight edge, then carefully grind them down till the match is perfect. Also this has come up before and I really don't understand what some of y'all are doing with your circular saws that modern brushless ones aren't powerful enough, assuming we're talking about 7 1/4 saws and not some of the large monsters seen in timber framing. Are ya all really cutting through 3 inch thick planks of hardwood with a circular saw or something? You certainly shouldn't be having problems with construction grade 4x and 2x boards or plywood an 1'' and under. Only time I've had my unremarkable brushless Ryobi bog down was operator error not realizing the importance of setting the minimum amount of cutting depth when making long cuts in thick plywood even when there's nothing to cut underneath. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Apr 8, 2020 |
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Apr 8, 2020 04:43
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This is one of the few good uses for oscillating multi-tools as well, if there's no gap to slip even a recip blade through the multi-tool can just cut its own small slot on its way to cutting the screw/nail while leaving most the piece intact. Not that I'd expect you to have one laying around or this to justify buying one. I'd be a little worried about prying it out honestly if we're really talking lags into the structure of the house, I'd say just drill them out.
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Apr 19, 2020 18:15
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You know even outside the contiguous 48 a regular ol 4x4 is only like like $12 at the local Home Depot, maybe just call it a loss and cut it up instead of risk damaging the side of your house, ruining a drill bit, or buying new tools?
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Apr 19, 2020 18:36
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I bought one of those around 4 years ago to use as a cheap standing desk and it works well enough I bought another last fall to form an L between the 2 of them. They're currently on top of rubber mats and the one was originally over the top of carpet, no stability issues even then. They aren't very deep so I consider a monitor stand that clamps to the back a must but otherwise they're a good way to save a few hundred on a standing desk.
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May 8, 2020 03:42
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:This is great info, thank you. My current saw is the 18v (not brushless) makita, and it bogs down sometimes when ripping plywood. It also chews batteries. Make sure you're matching the cutting depth to the material, even if nothing is under the cut it makes a difference in performance of the saw and prevents deflection which may be the cause of your bogging down.
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May 12, 2020 04:04
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Just had an enlightening experience. I needed to put some anchors into a concrete slab, and the last time I did this I used a hammer drill and it took an hour and 3 ruined bits before I got halfway through the job and decided that would have to do. This time I said screw it and got a proper but nothing special SDS drill and drilling into the same slab took seconds, I might as well have been using a regular drill to go through soft pine. Screw hammer drills, a regular impact can get small tapcons in from my experience and if you need to put a real hole in concrete just get the proper tool because the performance isn't remotely close.
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May 27, 2020 20:46
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You probably want to start with a miter saw first, you don't need to spend much money for a decent non-sliding 12'' model and it'd be perfect for the projects you mentioned. I'd recommend starting with that and a circular saw before jumping to a table saw.
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May 29, 2020 06:55
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Need to remember with Ryobi they usually have at least 2 or 3 different versions of every tool from garbage tier brushed motor models using tech 5 years out of date to brushless models that're equivalent to mid-range models from the "pro" manufacturers. Sometimes they even sneak through tools more powerful than the Milwaukee equivalents.
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Jun 10, 2020 06:45
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Home Depot is doing that same deal right now, I haven't had any problems with my current Ryobi saw but I really need more Makita batteries and another charger and $250 would usually just get you those batteries. Guess I'm getting another circular saw. Anyone have experience using open-ended ratcheting wrenches? The concept sounds super useful but online reviews seem to indicate they're super weak defeating the purpose, I'm wondering if that's a universal truth or just brand dependent. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 22:47
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Kobalt 80v is Greenworks 80v by the way, just a branding job for Lowes. The batteries aren't interchangeable due to some buggery with the plastic housing having grooves just barely out of alignment but performance should generally be the same and the attachment compatible weed eaters from Kobalt can use the Greenworks attachments.
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Jul 5, 2020 03:56
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Impact drivers tend to run a little smaller than drills as well so there's that. One issue with Ryobi's cheap entry level drills is they're quite large compared to most modern equivalents, not really enough to be a problem in most cases but if that's really a concern for you it's something to watch for. If you really value compactness you could consider going 12v, they're plenty powerful for most home owner uses, it's only when you need to use 1"+ auger bits or large hole saws they become iffy. You're going to be looking at Milwaukee if you want a battery system with the largest breadth of tools available in 12v but their basic entry level brushed 12v tools run around the same price as Ryobi's 18v stuff, if you go 12v you definitely want an impact driver to go with the drill. Orvin posted:I am pretty clueless when it come to manufacturer quality. I have seen Ryobi mentioned in the last couple of pages. Have they gotten better compared to 15ish years ago? My first couple of cordless drills from them In the early 2000’s were junk with batteries that wouldn’t hold a charge long enough to drive more than 1-2 screws. NiCad tools sucked compared to modern Lithium tools but man, they didn't suck that bad, I assume you're exaggerating a little but you probably had defective batteries or something.
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Jul 19, 2020 19:04
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None of those really seem all that especially compact? Also they already offered brushless versions of most tools, some of which were significantly smaller than their cheap brushed counterparts, and have had HP+ batteries for several years. Seems like a pure marketing push.
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Jul 30, 2020 20:30
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Ryobi has brushless versions of virtually every tool just like the higher end manufacturers, that really shouldn't be a deciding factor. If this is just for occasional and basic home DIY a Ryobi set is perfectly fine, you likely don't even need the brushless versions. If you really want to go for a higher end manufacturer consider Milwaukee's 12v line which is a bit cheaper than the 18v line, more compact, and totally still adequate for basic home DIY. The only real limitation you're going to run into with non-brushless drills is that they generally have 3/8 chucks vs 1/2 chucks and that may limit you when using large drill bits for making big holes in wood or metal. Well, that and a lack of power to sink large fasteners like lags but an impact is better for those anyways. Whatever you get consider a kit with a drill and impact, having both is nice and should be the default nowadays. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Aug 15, 2020 |
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Aug 15, 2020 17:46
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For what it's worth I have the below Shopfox 3/4 HP drill press and I've had issues running larger(1 1/4''+) forstner bits in harder wood, if you want to do forstner bits that big you're going to need to spend more or just accept that it won't be a smooth process, not to say you won't get it done, just expect it to be slow going and to result in burnt edges, possibly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1BE/ref=twister_B074G8L9FC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Holesaws are actually easier to run if you're working with thin work pieces since they're after all only cutting the edges of the hole, not the entire volume of it. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Aug 21, 2020 |
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Aug 21, 2020 02:43
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Propagandist posted:Would you recommend the Shop Fox? Honestly I'm in the same boat as TooMuchAbstraction in that I haven't really used other drill presses before, that and the fact that the Shopfox is over your budget is why I didn't explicitly recommend it and instead relayed my experiencing using it as a 3/4 HP press. I will say the fact it can double as an oscillating sander is a big reason I chose it not its virtues as a basic drill press, something that doesn't seem relevant for you. Only thing else I'll mention is that I didn't have the same issue with the belts being over tensioned, actually if anything I had the opposite problem in that changing speeds is no problem but I need to adjust the motor/tension to its near max to get it running smoothly.
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Aug 21, 2020 04:02
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Do you have the original pad? Does its thickness match the replacements? Aside from just being loose it could be that they're sitting proud, pressing against the paper into the workpiece just enough to generate heat but not leave noticeable marks. It could either be because you haven't quite tightened them all the way or because the replacement pads aren't the same thickness as the original. If that's the problem you could try very carefully trimming down the screw shanks with a dremel.
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Aug 29, 2020 18:54
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I don't have the original any longer at this point, unfortunately. Well even without the original, if you run a straight edge(like a good quality ruler) over the screw holes with the new pads installed, is there a gap or are they proud/flush? Even flush may be a problem and if that is the problem loctite won't help. If the issue isn't that they're not seated deep enough and you're left with the possibility they're vibrating and causing the heat then you don't want to use regular glue if that's what you're thinking of. When he said Loctite he meant the stuff below, not their Loctite brand superglue. Though those lock washers should be preventing chatter. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242-0-20-fl-oz-Specialty-Glue-209728/100371826
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Aug 30, 2020 20:33
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Assuming you're in the US, and you're set on buying new, the next step above the jobsite saws are "hybrids" of which Lowes and Home Depot both stock exactly one model each. The HD model is a Rigid and the Lowes is a Delta, you're looking at $500-700 depending on whether or not you find them on sale. Both come with wheels so while you can't practically carry them outside you can wheel them out of a garage into the driveway. I bought the Delta 36-725 from Lowes last year and have been pretty happy with it, another goon also did around the same time late last year and did a pretty good review. If you're interested in that one keep in mind they no longer sale the 36-725 but instead the 36-725T2 which is an updated version that has a slightly more powerful motor from the looks of it but can't be converted to 240v like the original.
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Sep 7, 2020 23:03
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Bleh, my local Laguna dealer got back to me, their bandsaws are backordered till late November/December at this point, I'll be waiting till next year accounting for freight if I go that direction. I had a closer look at that Porter-Cable, first time I've seen a large bandsaw for sale at the local Lowes in my area but considering I'd still need to buy a seperate fence and a riser block kit I just don't think it's worth the savings over more expensive saws to me. Doesn't even come with a miter gauge?! Found a local industrial supplier who has a Grizzly G0555LX in stock I'm considering, pretty similar to the one at Lowes but it comes with a fence and supports 3/4 blades instead of just 1/2. Interestingly it uses 11 amps as opposed to 10 amps in the PC but only advertises 1hp not 1.5hp. I'm seeing a bunch of different saws with amp ratings from 9-11 that are inconsistently rating that at 1hp to 1.5hp. Power Factor in the motor can make a difference but that seems like to big a swing which gives me doubts about the models advertising 1.5hp on 10 amps, I'm not sure its worth giving the HP rating much stock vs amps.
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Sep 9, 2020 18:25
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I never really considered the PC all that seriously for myself, it strikes me as awfully lacking in features vs something like a Wen, but it's probably serviceable. I had already committed to spending the money on the Laguna, since I don't want to wait quite that long and deal it in the middle of winter I'm going to be placing an order for a 19'' Grizzly instead, about what I was going to spend on a 14'' from Laguna.
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Sep 10, 2020 04:01
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Just bought one of those for the in-laws coincidentally, and during a small storm. I cleared what I would call a typical 4 car driveway(2 wide, 2 deep) of about 8'' of wet snow and it worked fine but it did struggle with already compacted spots and leftover ice chunks from previous storms. This completely drained both batteries. There's no depth adjustment to the shoe so expect to be throwing rocks if you use it over gravel unless it's completely iced over solid. Honestly if foot+ dumps of wet snow are a thing you'll need to be dealing with multiple times a season you should be looking at a 2 stage unit, and evidently Ego does make a 2-stage unit for double the price, only electric one I'm aware of. For our part the last 10 years anything over 4 inches at a time has been a 2-4 times a year thing and my in-laws haven't had more than a foot dump at once in probably 7 years or so, it should be fine for them the vast majority of the time and they need something as light as possible.
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Nov 11, 2020 07:38
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Man ya all are harsh, the measuring tape thing was funny, no need to rub it in and run him out of the place though. I believe a load cell is what some were thinking of by the way, as far as force measuring devices go. I don't really think that's going to help him at all though for this project... whatever it is, I don't think its a log splitter, why would you only want to go halfway through?
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Dec 5, 2020 20:00
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I have to say the best part of Makita's 36v tool line is the bundles. 4x 5ah batteries at retail? $400. A 36v rear handle circ saw with 4 of those and a dual charger? $250. I'm actually sad they decided to make a 40v line because I can't help but feel that's going to mean no more 36v tools before long.
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Mar 20, 2021 05:29
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I had a generic electric pressure washer I bought off Amazon that looks much like all the others and I can't say I was impressed, it didn't break on me but from the beginning it had problems maintaining pressure, it didn't like to provide pressure continuously for more than 15 or so seconds before taking a 5 second pause. Never broke on me but I also didn't find myself pulling it out very often in the 5 years I had it. There are now higher end electric models if you want to spend over $200. I bought a Greenworks from Lowes last summer that has a metal pump, brushless motor and 3/10(everything/motor) year warranty. I really can't say how it compares to gas but it's noticeably more powerful than the cheap electric one I had and it had no problem running for an hour plus the times I had it out, it also didn't constantly want to fall over like the generic models everyone sales.
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Apr 6, 2021 06:02
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I'm not sure there is such a thing as a long lasting OMT blade, I've bought expensive ones and cheap ones, they all dull quickly but while some cheap ones struggle to cut a single nail the more expensive ones can get through several before becoming near useless. I always feel like I'm getting ripped off somehow buying them. For what it's worth Project Farm did a comparison video of a bunch on YouTube and I bought the winning EZARC blades and still wasn't very impressed.
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Apr 8, 2021 05:50
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How much of it is on an incline and how steep? 0-turns and "very-steep" hills don't really mix that well, traction and tipping are both concerns.
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May 8, 2021 02:38
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Motronic posted:If there's anything you can cut "very steep" with a zero turn is pretty much the thing you want. Past that you're string trimming. Once you hit 15 degrees any riding mower can become dangerous and most manufacturers would suggest you not use them above that, very steep to me could definitely mean that's what we're talking about. Even below that point traction can be iffy going uphill, worse with wet grass. If its a small area just using a string trimmer may be the way to go but for if you've got a large area to mow on an incline a commercial self-propelled walk-behind may be a better option. Edit: It could just be the picture but that looks like a pretty significant incline to me with a apparent limited ability to mow down which is the safest way to deal with them. The fact you haven't had any traction or tipping issues with a regular mower may mean you're fine I'd just recommend that if you haven't already you do a bit of research into mowing hills with 0-turns. Elem7 fucked around with this message at 03:18 on May 8, 2021 |
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May 8, 2021 03:09
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Motronic posted:lol. But okay. Don't know why you're "lol" over that, its not a remotely controversial statement that manufacturers stick in their manuals and yes it applies to prosumer and even commercial 0-turns, if anything it applies to many of them more than other style mowers despite your statement to the contrary. I'd actually be less worried about many small riding mowers like the one he's been using given their more even weight distribution and the fact the front wheels actually steer vs casters. Would you seriously suggest slopes over 15 degrees require no change in how they're approached in the majority of machines? It may be perfectly fine on his lawn, there's a reason I started out with the question regarding what exactly he means by "very steep" because it's a very subjective statement that to me means you're in questionable territory with a 0-turn but may not for others including the Op. As I'd said before yes, if he never had any issues with his current mower he may very well be fine in most any 0-turn. Op if you do have any concerns about mowing your hills and will need to mow across them not just straight down and still want a 0-turn I'd recommend looking for a model where the front wheels can actually be used for steering as opposed to ones that're just castors.
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May 8, 2021 04:01
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