|
I like my 12" ridgid slider. I use the extra capacity more than I thought I would. If I had to move it much I think a 10" would be better; mine with its stand weighs about 130 lbs
dyne fucked around with this message at 04:04 on Oct 6, 2014 |
#
¿
Oct 6, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 04:59 |
|
|
The only time I've been denied using the 20% coupon was on a clearance item. I've used it on plenty of on sale items. Can't use two coupons on one item though.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2014 02:02
|
|
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:
Compressors and staple/nail guns aren't particularly complex or dangerous. You can pick up a small low powered compressor fairly cheaply. They're pretty handy to have around as well.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2014 20:41
|
|
|
Anubis posted:Has anyone bought one of the Milwaukee M12 hoodies? I never knew such things existed and now am really curious how well they work. I just got the bosch jacket. it's nice and works pretty well.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2014 01:04
|
|
|
I have the Bosch jacket and like it quite a bit. It's a well made jacket and fairly warm just by itself, too.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2015 17:37
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Isn't the loose hook a feature? I always understood it's for measuring from inside/outside edges. If your hook doesn't have any wiggle, you're getting inaccurate measurements in one case or the other (or possibly even both) by as much as the thickness of the hook. I like that aspect about the cheapo taskforce 12' tape measure I use. I also try to only use that tape measure for measuring and cutting, so it sort of acts like a story stick/tape even if it's inaccurate.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 22, 2015 16:34
|
|
|
I recommend a good floody headlamp if you guys don't have one. I have a zebralight h51 that I use all the time, its way easier to grab and use than to set up my stationary worklight.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2015 15:48
|
|
|
Does the hackzall have an orbital motion or no? If not make sure youre moving the tool around while cutting so the sawdust clears from the cut. Otherwise you're repeatedly sawing the sawdust.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 11, 2015 06:08
|
|
|
I try to use cordless whenever I can as cords suck. I use my impact driver the most and you should definitely be getting one. I also use my drill and jobmax with the sawzall head quite a bit. I don't have a cordless circular saw, but it's not unusual for me to forgo using my corded one because I didn't want to get it out. I've been happy with my Ridgid stuff, but if I were buying new tools I'd probably go with Milwaukee or Makita due to the number of tools they have.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 18, 2015 14:57
|
|
|
Looks like Milwaukee just announced their cordless finish nailers, which look nice but are pretty pricey ($350 for the bare tool). I have ridgid stuff and I thought their nailers were too expensive. Hopefully prices come down in the next year or two as I'd really like to get one. I avoid getting my nailers out half time and just hand nail or screw because I don't want to get my 50# compressor out of the garage.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2016 22:23
|
|
|
Axiem posted:My last lawn mower finally bit the dust, so I'm looking to buy a new one. I'm quite done with gas mowers, and am totally on board with battery-powered ones. Right now, I'm heavily contemplating either the Kobalt 40v or the 80v model, and picking up the respective line trimmer and leaf blower when I do, to get a battery cycle going. Does anyone have any experience with these? Which voltage would actually be better? I can't comment on the mowers but I have the kobalt 40v trimmer and blower. The trimmer is pretty good, there's no lack of power and the battery lasts more than long enough to do my 1/3 acre. My biggest gripe with it is the auto-feed head, which is ridiculous; it feeds like 1/4" of string out every time the trimmer is stopped and started so a ton is wasted, and the string is a pain to wrap. Standard replacement heads don't fit, so I just made a little aluminum block that will hold precut string. The blower is pretty anemic, it works okay for blowing clippings off the driveway but can't do much more than that.
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2016 16:52
|
|
|
Jonny Quest posted:Ideally, given the hills and the ~1/3 acre I'd have a reel mower That sounds like madness to me. I have a 40" zero turn for my 1/3 acre. It takes me less than 10 minutes to mow all together 
|
|
#
¿
May 5, 2016 03:24
|
|
|
Walked posted:That's where I'm leaning. For what it's worth, I'd recommend getting the right angle drill. You'll run into plenty of situations you can use as an excuse to buy an impact driver, not so much for a right angle drill. You gotta make the most out of your excuses to buy tools.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2016 19:25
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:You children should appreciate the progress to where there are such things as torx and squarehead. When I was a kid, it was 60/40 common/phillips and that was 10 miles uphill both ways to school in the snow goddammit. And no impact drivers, no less!
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2016 00:09
|
|
|
I have that saw and it works well. It'll fit fine in the hatchback if you remove the 10 or so bolts holding the wings and rails on. I doubt the back rail is damaged, it's probably just not adjusted properly.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 26, 2016 03:42
|
|
|
A ROS is probably too aggressive for drywall sanding and the pad is probably too stiff and will dig into the wall. I bought one of these when I was drywalling my ceiling: https://www.amazon.com/ALEKO-804A-Electric-Variable-Drywall/dp/B00NDAK82E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475722420&sr=8-3&keywords=drywall+sander and even at the slowest speed it's pretty aggressive, and will dig in despite the really soft pad. If you're mostly sanding small bits like in your picture it would be a lot easier to hand sand. You don't have to sand much at all if you take your time with the mud application and do multiple thin coats over several days.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2016 03:59
|
|
|
Spookydonut posted:Yeah I use this quick sand filler stuff, it's fiddly. You might have better luck with all purpose joint compound. It probably has more adhesive in it than some cheap patching stuff
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2016 17:20
|
|
|
I've had some ridgid cordless tools for a while and have been completely satisfied. I'm not sure if they're really any better or worse than the other big brands.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 23, 2016 04:22
|
|
|
Pivotal Lever posted:The 5" Knipex pliers wrench is the KC Tool of the day for $34.50 (25% off normal), a heck of a deal for a pocketable adjustable wrench that opens up to 7/8". Thanks, it's out of stock but I ordered one anyway. Been looking to get a couple of these in different sizes.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 1, 2017 01:35
|
|
|
I have a dust deputy for my shop vac and it works well. There are cheaper chinese knockoffs available now. It seems like it'd be pretty restrictive for a dust collector as you say. I'd look into building a thien baffle if I were in your shoes.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2017 14:19
|
|
|
lwoodio posted:Are you doofuses mistaking impact wrenches for impact drivers? I could probably use mine to tighten eyeglass screws without stripping them if I had a bit that small. It spins at like 20 rpms at the lowest speed. Yeah I don't understand the issue. Just let off the trigger to slow the impacting and sneak up on the depth of sinking the screw. It's way easier for me to drive screws into drywall with my impact driver than my drill
|
|
#
¿
Oct 4, 2017 04:08
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:To expand on the router method, you need specifically a router with a base rub collar (not the collet) attachment and a straight bit. You can make a jig from plywood scrap and you'll want to experiment on scraps. Typically for a straight 1/2" router bit the collar will have something like 3/32" clearance around it. So for 3 1/2" door butts (hinges) you'd have a height on the inside cut area of the jig of 3 11/16". Seeing as the jambs are already there, you'll need to tack on an offset to the jig to allow for the doorstops.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2017 19:42
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:That won't work. Uh, why not? The only other difference in the set up would be you'd make a jig that's the same size as the hinge, rather than having to bother with compensating for the offset of the collar.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 25, 2017 20:06
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Top bearing bit can't down cut. You could use a collar type bearing between the shaft and cutterhead, same dimension as the cutterhead, if you could find one. Maybe that's what you meant? I think you might be confusing top and bottom bearings. Top bearing refers to the bearing above the cutter, between the cutter and shank. They're not uncommon. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Diamet...emplate+top+bit Ryobi includes one with their $25 hinge cutting jig. You only have to match the the bit radius with the hinge corner if you're going to have 90 degree corner on your template. If the template corners match the corners of the hinge you can use the same diameter bit or smaller.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2017 00:23
|
|
|
Can someone with makita tools do me a favor and measure the voltage of the thermistor terminal on your battery? I have a bare makita impact driver i want to try and power with a non makita battery and it only gives a sort of half hearted turn with just the 18v + and - wires connected, and the thermistor disconnected. I'm hoping it's just because that's disconnected and not due to the battery communication makita claims to have
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2017 04:30
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Battery 1: 20.15v, 19.54v thermistor to ground, 0.595 thermistor to +.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2017 13:04
|
|
|
I've bought some ego stuff and am happy with it
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2018 22:47
|
|
|
I'm going to suggest getting a 6" ROS rather than 5", sanding goes a fair bit faster.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2018 01:52
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:3rding the get a corded router. There is no reason to get cordless. Well, not as a your only router. I have a cordless trim router that's always just set up with a round over or chamfered bit. It's nice not having to deal with a cord for quick edge treatment.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2019 14:28
|
|
|
The Gardenator posted:80v electric string trimmers are on par with gas ones. Lowes and home depot will let you try it for 30 days and return it if you do not like it. Voltage isnt the whole story for how much power a tool has, it just determines how thick of wires are needed in the tool and the minimum number of cells in a battery pack. 20 cells in series will be able to produce the same power as 20 cells that are in a 10s2p configuration (half the voltage but is able provide twice the amps).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2019 19:30
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Their 12v stuff is extremely capable and often more powerful than the cheap consumer brands 18/20v stuff. Really happy with my 12v brushed Hex Screwdriver. It's lightweight and you won't run into fatigue using it to put together flat pack furniture for 6 hours, isn't going to strip your threads, but strong enough to drill holes or drive 3" screws into wood if needed. My 18v Fuel driver is too heavy to do that stuff all day, and it will blow things out even on the lowest clutch setting if you're not using any finesse. I bought into the m12 stuff several months ago and have been overall happy. If you can, get an M12 surge driver. I use that exclusively over the regular M12 impact driver, I haven't run into anything that the surge driver couldn't handle that the regular M12 impact could (and if I need anything more powerful I use my 18v impact driver anyway). The installation driver has also been handy for around the house. I've been disappointed by the M12 circular saw. It doesn't have much power and stalls very easily if the blade is pinched at all.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2020 16:57
|
|
|
Blistex posted:Still, the Domino system is apparently the biggest furniture-making game changer out there. It's handy. I paid $650 for an old beat up one (with a bent fence) and a new systainer with dominos and spare cutter, and that was a deal.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 1, 2021 19:06
|
|
|
dangling pointer posted:That being said I’m not familiar with ones that can run in the PTO of a tractor if you have one, those might be decent. I bought this woodchipper earlier this spring: https://www.woodmaxx.com/TM-86H-PTO-Wood-Chipper-p/tm-86h.htm. I ran it on my tractor that has ~20hp at the PTO. I used it to chip branches from 4 ash trees I took down. I chipped up to 4-5" diameter limbs that were pretty dry (anything larger I chopped up for firewood). It's pricey but it has a hydraulic feed which is fantastic and sped up the process significantly. I started out using a ~13 hp standalone chipper that used a 40lb flywheel. That would have been miserable to use for an extended period of time. It had a small infeed opening so I'd have to pre-cut up most of the branches to fit, and force them by hand down the chute. The limbs also vibrated a lot while being forced down the chute. Fortunately I bought it on craigslist for cheap (compared to a similarly spec'd new one) and sold it for what I paid. Also for chippers, when they're advertised as "self-feeding", that means you feed them down the infeed chute yourself. If you're going to be chipping a lot, spring for hydraulic feed.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2021 20:29
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Yessssss Wait there are more people who are on the orange team besides me in this thread? I've felt so alone. Ridgid has put out a pretty surprising number of new tools in the past couple years, rather than just updated drills and impact drivers. Too bad their yard tools are only just coming out and the subcompact line only came out a year or two ago, I bought into the milwaukee M12 line for small/light duty tools (that I use most of the time, the surge impact driver is fantastic) and ego for yard tools. edit: Fellatio del Toro posted:wait are you guys not spending $200 filling your garage with things you used one time? poo poo Don't feel bad, I filled up my garage and had to build a workshop for more room  . Haven't used my engine hoist in like 2 years.
dyne fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Jan 22, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Jan 22, 2023 05:14
|
|
|
PitViper posted:and roller covers are single use and shouldn't be washed out and reused, especially over multiple jobs. Really? I have a couple decent roller covers that I've used to paint several rooms that seem to be holding up just fine. I just spend a few minutes to thoroughly clean them in the utility sink after I'm done with a room. In between coats I wrap the brushes and roller covers with press 'n' seal
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2023 05:26
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:Your scraps and my scraps are very different. This was some wooden dowels, a Goodwill hairdryer, and an old PC power supply. If you don't have a suitable power supply somewhere, you can use a $50 adjustable lab bench power supply from Amazon. They can be set to a constant current and it adjusts itself to the appropriate voltage. I just sliced up a bunch of 5" insulation with a hot wire I made using one, it was handy being able turn the current up and down on the fly.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2023 23:50
|
|
|
Also pick up one of their hot glue guns, it is super handy having a cordless one around. I have the original one that takes 1/2" sticks, they have one that takes small sticks that looks lighter duty.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2023 17:49
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 16, 2024 04:59 |
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Anyone have any experience cutting down track saw guide rails? Ordered a 2nd 55" track and plan to cut it down to about 36" as a general purpose track for most cuts, and then put the remaining 19" onto my existing 55" to give a little extra breathing room for 4' plywood (55" track is juuuuuust too short), and be able to break down a 5x5 sheet if I ever use those. On the rare occasion I need to do a full rip on an 8' sheet I can just connect them all. Cut it on a miter saw. Clamp a sacrificial piece of wood (using the miter saw's clamp) on top of the thin parts of the track (another piece underneath to sandwich the track wouldn't hurt). The wood will support the thin aluminum as it's being cut. A regular wood blade would be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 22, 2023 01:42
|
|