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Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Anyone tried the Pentax Q series? How is it?

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Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I'm thinking of getting a Canon 80D within the year, but given my fondness for street and concert photography it might be more favorable if I get a mirrorless camera for the size advantage. I'm attracted to Fuji because of its styling and excellent lenses... Would the X-T10 be comparable to the 80D in terms of specs and general low-light performance? I'm concerned about Fuji's accessory range (like, say, flashguns), which I know next to nothing about.

(I'm currently on a borrowed 550D with a fast Tamron standard zoom lens, so it won't be a big hassle to switch)

To complete the small package, I'm planning on getting the 35mm f/2 prime (or even the 27mm). I'm also not averse to getting the X-E2S if it could save me a hundred dollars.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Fuji question: Is it true that Fuji raws don't play well with Lightroom? Is it a gamebreaker or are there reasonable workarounds?

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
The X-T1's price dropped here and I could get a body + XF 35mm f/2 R WR or body + XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS for the same price. Which combo should I get? If I get the latter, I'm planning to get the 35mm f/2 sooner or later anyway, but I'm concerned if just getting the prime would limit my shooting... I do portraiture, concert, and street photography, with the occasional family pictures. Everywhere I've read says the kit lens is great, but I'm wondering how does it match up to the prime.

Also, if it helps, I've been shooting with my zoom lens locked to 35mm on my 550D and so far it's not bad...

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
How good are 3rd-party Fuji batteries? They cost a third of the originals' price in my region.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Just curious but why does the Fuji XF 16-55 not have OIS? Was it a deliberate thing? Would Fuji release an update in the future? It feels strange that the 18-55 would have it.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

Animal posted:

They didn't wanna make it any bigger, OIS would have added bulk, especially to a constant-aperture zoom. It's a big lens already and it would have made their APS-C size advantage moot.

Hopefully one day Fuji cameras will have IBIS

I see. And yeah, IBIS would be great. I mean, the upcoming Sony a6500 is going to have it, which should put some pressure on Fuji to keep up.

A little off-topic, but my friend's X-E2 and 35mm 1.4 got stolen in his office. He works at a call center, which attracts all sorts of terrible people. I'm saddened because he's been posting this cool street/portraiture series on Facebook featuring this girl whom he may or may not be dating and it was counting down to something. drat.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

windex posted:

I have/had cameras that had IBIS and honestly all it lets you do is gain a few stops of stability to an already death gripped camera. So if you can shoot at 1/30 handheld with reasonable results for you, you might get 1/8. If your subject moves the rules are no different than if shooting at 1/8 normally. At 1/30, you are only 3 stops off from 1/250, and if your camera RAW can't be pushed +3 EVs in Lr to a satisfactory result, that's probably a bigger issue.

I do get why people like IBIS as a concept, but you could also just idk use a faster shutter and eat the depth of field loss or ISO performance degradation to get a sharper subject than the resulting blur off the 1/8 exposure.

IBIS is also worthless on long telephoto lenses which need optical stabilization to be used on anything but well secured tripods.

Not saying any of this to defend Fuji, more so that in general the idea of IBIS in a photographer's mind is a bigger conceptual deal than it actually is in execution, at least if you shoot living things, and landscape photographers hate stabilization systems since it causes problems with tripods so it's not for them either.

Overall, having shot both ways, I prefer simply using a faster shutter.

I haven't tried using a faster shutter speed and correcting the underexposure in post, but my current body (Canon 550D) is old so it's probably not viable until I get my X-T1 this weekend. I do have problems handholding my camera to get sharp pictures below 1/60 so I don't know how much technique could fix that (I've only started shooting since February). Thanks for the tip though!

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Could anyone share their X-T1 image settings for maximum Lightroom compatibility? I just got mine and I haven't played with it and Lightroom yet (been posting JPEGs SOOC), I've read online that some people prefer to decrease the Sharpness setting as photos look apparently different when viewed on a monitor.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
wrong thread edit

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

Red_Fred posted:

Are there any such things as setup guides? I'm getting my X-T1 on the weekend and want to make sure I'm not setting it up incorrectly.

Looking through the manual is pretty overwhelming.

You may want to set Noise Reduction to -2, as it renders skin too plasticky for my taste.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Is Lightroom's Fuji film emulation identical to the in-camera raw converter? I haven't actually tested it but I swear it's... Different...

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

rio posted:

Question, for all Fuji people but specifically X-Pro 2 and X-T2 people. What are you doing for sharpening with your raws? I had settled with my X-T1 on sharpening in Lightroom with the detail maxed and the radius at around 1.3. It was never perfect but it was good enough. With the X-T2 I am not as pleased and wondering if I should sharpen in photoshop first and then work on images in Lightroom. I still haven't tried Capture One although I intended too...I am pretty set in my ways with Lightroom at the point though. I haven't been doing large projects since I just got the camera so I have just been transferring to jpg in the camera so far but anticipating the inevitable time that I get a large amount of photos I need to deal with I would like to figure this out now rather than wait until the last second.

I personally don't use it myself but Nik Collection has the RAW Presharpener plugin for Photoshop.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

particle9 posted:

Sorry but how do you film process the raw files? I have the xt2 and would love to know. Thanks.

Not sure if it's changed from the X-T1 but you simply use the in-camera raw converter. There's an option to choose a film simulation mode (default is Provia). When you're done, press Q and it'll spew out a JPEG in whatever settings you used.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

MMD3 posted:

Out of morbid curiosity I looked him up on YouTube because ive never heard what he sounds like... Watch this then read that article in his voice.

https://youtu.be/eT-HBiFnODA

holy poo poo

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I mainly shoot raw, then either convert in-camera or use Lightroom. SOOC JPEGs are nice but I always feel the need to tweak exposure/contrast/white balance.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
The XT-1 has a maximum flash sync speed of 1/180. However, when I fire my flash remotely at that speed (and even at, say, 1/160), my photos have a black line at the bottom (caused by the shutter curtain moving too fast?). Is it normal that I have to use a slower shutter speed than the maximum with off-cam flash? I'm using Phottix Odin triggers, if that helps.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
You can apply the film simulation after taking the photo in raw. Not sure about jpeg, but if you have the raw you could just re-generate the jpeg.

You can have only one active per photo, though.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
The bracketing is jpeg-only.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

Shnakepup posted:

What's a good wireless flash for Fuji, preferably with TTL?

I use a Nissin i40, which is nice. There's a newer, more powerful model, the i60a, but it's bigger. They both come with wireless TTL capability but you pay like triple the price for a manual flash.

I never use the wireless TTL (I use on-cam TTL for event shooting), because manual offers you more control. If you use your flash off-cam then chances are you have the time to setup your flash exposure manually anyway. I myself am looking to buy two Yongnuo flashes for manual off-cam use because they're more powerful and have nice features (and I could get three for the price of my current flash).

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Does Sony still have overpriced-rear end lenses

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
All of Fuji's primes are great. It all depends on what you want to shoot. I'm guessing street, since you mentioned Tokyo, so 23mm would be a fine choice. You can choose between f/2 or f/1.4, the former is weather-sealed, newer, and half the price of the latter.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I'm thinking of getting an Fuji XF 35mm f/2, mostly for gig photography. My 18-55mm kit isn't fast enough in low light, even with the ISO cranked up to 6400 on my X-T1. I figured that focal length is good because I could use it as a general-purpose lens (I also do a bit of portraiture). But then I wonder if 23mm is a better focal length...

I *may* get both in the future but for this year's lens purchase, help me pick one? Still leaning on 35mm because it's cheaper over here.

I've done the exercise where I'd keep my zoom on a specific length for a day so I'm pretty comfy with both.

Lily Catts fucked around with this message at 08:02 on Nov 16, 2017

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
For gigs I'm usually at a distance of one meter from the band. When using my 18-55 I usually zoom to 35, so 35mm is my first choice.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

alkanphel posted:

lol if you're choosing between Fuji lenses, just buy them both. That's what I did.

I can't afford both right now, with my current income it'll take me a year to get the second one.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Um, dumb question, but what is focus peaking? My X-T1 has like 3 different manual focus aids but I don't know how to use any of them (since I'm on AF all the time). The one I tried gave some magnified PIP thing to check if my subject was really in focus.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
If I were to get a prime lens for Fuji focusing on portrait work, what would be the most cost-effective solution? The options I see are the 50mm f/2 or the 90mm f/2. I just got the 23mm f/2 which I will use for gig photography, so I'd like to balance that out with something longer (I might get the 35mm f/2 down the line if I have enough GAS).

I'm leaning towards the 50mm because it's cheaper and I've no experience with shooting in 90mm with a crop sensor, would there be a significant difference?

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

8th-snype posted:

The 90mm is absurdly good, it's the sharpest lens fuji makes. Frankly though you should consider the 56mm f/1.2 as it's extremely versatile and I think a dude is selling one in the buy/sell thread. The 90 and 56 are my go to lenses for portrait sessions. However the 23/35/90 would also be super good at covering nearly ever situation.

Thanks! I just checked and the 56 and the 90 aren't too far off in terms of price difference. I also prefer weather-sealing even if I'll probably never shoot in harsh conditions for the build quality.

I'm not getting one anytime soon as I'm still recovering from my latest lens purchase, though.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I would like IBIS for the X-T series, but I would rather not at the price of more weight. I think the form factor of the X-Tx is perfect for me (which is why I got the X-T1 over the X-T10).

Although the last camera I used was a Canon 550D which is just around 50g heavier than the X-T2.

Do bodies generally get heavier with later iterations?

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

bobfather posted:

Not necessarily. I mean the X-T20 is identical to the X-T2 in terms of sensor and AF hardware. The primary difference is that the X-T2 has an EVF and joystick, neither of which account for the ~30% weight and size savings the X-T20 has over the X-T2. Consider even that the X-T20 has a fancier touch screen and a built-in flash. If it didn’t have those features it would probably be almost half the weight of the X-T2.

I was asking more about bodies in the same class--like X-T1, X-T2, and the future X-T3. I just looked up the weight of my old 550D and its latest iteration, the 800D, and they weigh almost the same. But then again that's an entry-level line without much feature innovation. A quick check at the 5D series, the weight jumped up with the Mk III, but decreased with the Mk IV (though it's still heavier than the Mk I and II).

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Instax does well in the Philippines, too. Fuji also has a chain of shops here that provide photo services and sell Fuji products.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Has Sony's menus improved though? I've read that they've been terrible at them.

I also agree that Sony's FF offerings draw too much attention.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

polyester concept posted:

Fuji X Raw Studio is out for Windows

http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/x_raw_studio/win/

I am sick of trying to match SOOC jpegs in lightroom. The built in profiles look okay but they don't inherit any of the highlight or shadow adjustment settings which is a huge issue for me.

Nice! But it doesn't seem compatible with the X-T1...

(I should update my firmware regardless)

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

SMERSH Mouth posted:

The Lighting thread is no more, so I ask here. I've been wanting to buy a flash for my Sigma DP3 Merrill for ages, and now I also have good reason to get something bigger and bounce-able for an X-T2. Is it possible to buy a flash that will do TTL with both cameras? What about one that would be TTL compatible with the Fuji, but work in Auto mode with any camera? I'm a caveman when it comes to lighting knowledge; most of my relevant experience comes from shooting with old film-era flashes.

I have a Nissin i42, it works with Fuji TTL (although I kind of just say "gently caress it" and use manual anyway even with on-camera use), but it's made to be a portable flash. I think they have a larger model that has more output, but I'm not sure about compatibility with other systems. Are you planning to use TTL off-camera?

The Fuji OEM flashes are overpriced garbage according to several reviews.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)

Keret posted:

I feel like I have to get uncomfortably close to people to get a good shot with the 23mm

Me too, otherwise it's great at everything else. I might get a 35mm f/2 (or even a 50mm) by the end of the year.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I got into a local club that plays with lightsabers twice a week. Since I have an X-T1, I'm thinking of bringing it to saber meets but I'm concerned thst the video quality sucks (I have not heard any praise on Fuji bodies for that generation). Is it really that bad, or downright unusable? Take note that the sessions are in a park at nighttime, where mostly the sabers themselves perform most of the illumination. That's gonna kill most non-pro setups, I imagine.

If (and that's a big if) I were to upgrade for video, should I wait for the X-T3, or jump on the X-H1?

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I never owned a full-frame camera but a lot of non-pixel peepers say "it's not that much of an improvement, honestly", and following that advice makes my wallet happy.

I'm going to cover a day-long company event and I'm packing two lenses (a prime and the good Fuji kit zoom) along with a portable flash and body, and it's just so light. My coffee mug might be heavier than the 23mm f/2, despite the latter being a metal construction. If size and weight are a big factors for you then Fuji (or M43, which is even smaller) can't be beat.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Any news or rumors on the X-T3? I bought my X-T1 when the X-T2 came out. It's still a great camera but I feel its age sometimes.

Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
I've never needed to have my Fuji serviced, but Fujifilm Philippines offers free lens cleaning whenever they show up in photography expos (which is like bimonthly).

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Lily Catts
Oct 17, 2012

Show me the way to you
(Heavy Metal)
Has anyone tried any of the 7artisans manual-focus lenses for Fuji? They're a Chinese 3rd-party lens maker and have stuff like 35mm f/1.2 for dirt cheap. Very tempting but I imagine you'd lose focus very easily.

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