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ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Residency Evil posted:

Here I was smug about the 15% off I got on my MBA through the F&F discount and now I see I missed out on saving 20%. And to add to the insult, I should have saved the money and bought the ad version of the Kindle instead.

Just sold my revb whitebook from 2006 to a dude on craigslist. Specs:

C2D 1.83
320 gb HD
4 gigs of Ram (Only 3.25 are usable)
New battery/top case

I put it up for $400. Mac2sell had it for $350, so I thought I did pretty well although the overwhelming response on CL makes me think I could have gotten more for it. Kind of sad to see it go. I originally bought it in 2006 as a reva macbook. It was my first mac since an old mac SE we had growing up. It was kind of a mess for the first year and ended up getting replaced with a revb but i've essentially had the same computer since 2006.

I've found that Craigslist's prices are always significantly different from Mac2sell. I know goons use Mac2sell a lot on SA Mart, but I've found them to be really inaccurate. That being said I wouldn't say $400 is bad for your laptop.

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ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

BlackMK4 posted:

It's probably not a button, it's probably something inside the machine. I lost a foot on my MBP and left it alone until I realized it was leaking dust into the computer.

Ended up taping it from the inside and gluing the foot back on.

What kind of glue did you use? My MBP has lost 3 of the 4 feet, and right now they are being held on by tape since they are covering holes in the case.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Manky posted:

All right, I've threatened it before, but I'm finally upgrading my 15" early 08 MBP. Local computer place says it'll be a day or two before they get my replacement hdd in, so I'd like to order this stuff now. You guys mind checking out my shopping cart, make sure I'm not screwing up?
ram
ssd
optibay
Kind of a pain in the rear end finding an optibay that didn't say unibody only. And I only need a decent set of small screwdrivers, nothing weird like for unibodies, right? And my preexisting 2gb ram will play nice? Thanks a lot guys, I secondguess a lot.

Should have no problems, although I second that you might want to avoid OCZ unless you are willing to go through potential returns hassle. Definitely make sure that whatever goes on that drive exists somewhere else as well in case it shits itself, they have the lowest reliability out of all the SSD manufacturers. You should be able to find a 64GB drive by someone other than OCZ for not too much more if you are patient. It doesn't look like there are any deals right now, but Newegg and Amazon both have them occasionally for about $70. I don't know if the extra space is meaningful to you, but it can be nice to have some wiggle room. Remember, you want all your applications to fit on it.

You should know that your MBP uses PATA for the optical disk, which does mean that you might not get all of the speed that SSDs can offer, although with my limited knowledge of these things, I think it's said that the biggest gain of using an SSD is the random read/writes that happen at much slower speeds than max anyway (but still like 20x faster than a normal HD). Someone might want to confirm that it will still be a useful upgrade, I'm curious myself as I might do this to my GF's MBP one of these days.

The memory should work fine.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Colonel Sanders posted:

I think I am being paranoid about my Macbook battery. The original Apple battery is from 2006 and has 250 cycles, holds only 3700mAH according to system report.

So I ordered a Techno Earth replacement battery, the specs say it is a 5400mAH battery.

According to the directions that came with the battery, I should have put it my laptop and drained it to 3%, discharging below 3% is strictly prohibited, etc. I assumed my macbook would shut off at 3%, but instead it got down to 2% and as per the directions I decided to shut it off. So that kinda makes me wonder if letting my macbook decide when to shut off will be bad for my battery?

I have no yet finished fully recharging the new battery, but system report states that a full charge will hold 4900mAH, that is better than my original battery but 500mAH short of what the product claims! I don't particularly care about 500mAH lower capacity, I just want to know if that is normal or not. I am assuming this is due to system report not accurately measuring the capacity of the battery? I have not yet contacted the seller because I want to get an opinion from someone who does not have a monetary interest in this first.

Also, if I plan to use my macbook at home and keep it plugged in and fully charged all the time will that kill my battery? And as for cycling the battery, Apple recommends fully charge then discharge the battery like once a month (Techno Earth claims 1 every 2 months) but a random internet website said to charge to full capacity, and leave the charger on for a few hours before discharging, is that a good or bad idea?

In my experience this is pretty normal with 3rd party batteries. They never hold as much as they claim, and often the laptop will suddenly shut down at a few percent battery left, rather than going to sleep like normal. I'm guessing that's why they recommend shutting it down at 3%, so you have the opportunity to save and so forth.

Battery life in general seems to be pretty much only related to charge cycles. I wouldn't worry about discharging it at all to be honest, although if you are just leaving it plugged in, why did you buy a new battery?

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

illcendiary posted:

:stare:

At the absolute, absolute most, I would get a 7-year old a refurbished first-gen iPad for less than $200.

Yah, I'd be more inclined to find a used Clamshell or G3 Powerbook, but maybe kids these days don't want to touch anything that can't run youtube efficiently. I mean, he's not playing modern games right? Load it up with Swamp Gas, Oregon Trail, etc.

They're sturdy enough that they should handle a few drops, so that's nice.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011


Are the intel macs better in this regard? I've never seen a G4 Powerbook that wasn't pitted to hell after a couple of years.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Petey posted:

Now that I have my Air, I'm thinking about getting an iMac. While my old black Macbook is still running OK, I only ever now use it as a desktop, and I figure if I am going to use it as a desktop I might as well get an actual desktop.

Through work I can get a ~2 year old black / silver:

Apple iMac 20" Intel Core 2 Duo 2.66 GHz 4GB 320GB

for $300.

However, I'd only do this if:

- I can upgrade the HD (to a larger internal HD, or to a SSD + HD)
- there wasn't some crazy improvement over the last year or so in iMacs that would help here.

So how is the quality on these? I haven't owned a desktop since...2002 or so, so I'm a little out of the loop on the finer points of Apple's desktop offerings.

That sounds like a really cheap price to me, but the processor is like middle of the road for 2008, so it might not even be much of an upgrade over your macbook, depending on what model you actually have.

That being said, the HD is upgradeable, the instructions are here. The only way you would be able to add an SSD in addition to the HD is to remove the optical drive, which probably is possible, but you would have to do some research to be sure about that.

You might actually be better off just plugging your air into an external drive/mouse/keyboard/screen whenever you want to use it like a desktop, it's faster than either your old macbook or that iMac. But that can be inconvenient of course.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

1997 posted:

Maybe you should have cycled your battery more often. 14 in one year is nonsense, they're rated at a few hundred per year.

Edit: It's rated at 500 cycles over its life so perhaps unplug your notebooks more often

Batteries nowadays basically last their rated cycles under whatever conditions unless there's something wrong with them. 14 cycles in a year should easily be enough to keep it going. I mean, you could probably shelve it for a year with no problems.

It looks more like there's some sort of issue with the computer seeing the battery at all. Does the battery life indicator on the menu bar have a big X through it? That would mean that your computer thinks there's no battery connected at all. I've never seen a battery report like that with coconut battery; even basically dead ones still didn't show -1 like that. Do you still have an old battery lying around? You could plug that in and see if it shows anything different.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Are you using a MacBook charger on your MacBook Pro? That could be another reason it isn't charging, since the MacBook charger doesn't supply as much power. The charger for the pro should be 85 watts, it says it on the charger somewhere.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Arivia posted:

Don't use coconutBattery. It's old, it's outdated, you'd probably have better luck if you tried divining your battery's health using a pile of chicken guts.

What's wrong with coconut battery? I assumed it pulled the battery info from the same place all the other battery programs do. It gives me the exact same numbers as the System Profiler, so I'm not sure where you're supposed to get more accurate information about your battery.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Electric Bugaloo posted:

Oddly enough, shutting down/powering up a lot will supposedly decrease the life span of a spinning hard drive because of the stopping/starting. Since you're dealing with an MBA, that won't ever be a problem. Shut it down to your heart's content. Do it just to hear the chimes if you want. Personally, I dig them :3 (though I only restart like once a month).

That doesn't make any sense, the hard drive gets spun down when the computer is put to sleep, too. And most computers will spin down the drive when it isn't being used even while the computer is awake.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

ConfusedUs posted:

What are the chances of this happening twice?

My replacement drive won't detect either. Not in my external enclosure, not inside my new MBP. The wife's windows machine won't recognize it in the enclosure either. I haven't taken it apart (again!) to try it inside her machine, but I'm not optimistic.

The 500GB hard drive currently in my MBP detects in all of the above places.

Why the hell won't this work? Did I really just get two identical drives, both DOA? :(

Seems to be the case. Unless the enclosure itself is damaging the drive somehow, but I don't even know if that is possible.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Bob Morales posted:

27" Teardown from iFixIt



Dang.

That picture is from the 2009 iMac teardown...

I can't find a teardown of the new one, usually the teardowns don't show up until the computers are actually shipping.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Bob Morales posted:

Are you guys swinging your cords around like a ball and chain or what? I've never destroyed a magsafe and my girlfriend hasn't even destroyed hers. And it's usually on the floor in a big pile of junk or somehow threaded through the couch.

A while ago I actually tried to destroy my old magsafe by using it like a ball and chain because the charger itself is dead, and I figured if I could get the ends to fray I could get it replaced for free. The one stupid magsafe with solid strain relief is the one I have, of course. I've pretty much given up at this point and am just going to buy a new one when I have the time/money.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

fleshweasel posted:

What's the best deal on an optibay and superdrive enclosure? Seems to me you'd have to be dumb to pay $75+ for just a bracket to fit your extra hard drive in there, and a superdrive enclosure can't cost all that much. I'm going to be spending enough on the SSD as it is.

I got one of the $10 ones from Amazon. It's been working great, for about a year now. I had to dremel a bit on the optibay, but I knew that already from reviews. It was easy enough to do, although I don't think I'd want to have to do it without a power tool of some sort. With patience, a plain old file probably would work, though. I also bought a crappy superdrive enclosure on Amazon for $10. The front of the drive is exposed because the enclosure is meant for a tray loader, but I've used it like twice since I did the swap, and it does still work.

I put the SSD in the optibay because I was too lazy to bother swapping out the platter drive. I can only remember one kernel panic since then and it wasn't on waking from sleep. I don't know if it matters but I use a 2009 unibody 17 inch.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Ryand-Smith posted:

Long time lurker, first time poster, question, I'm looking at getting a used 17 (there are no new 17 retina MBPs, so used 17 it is MBP, are there any models to look out for, any pros/cons besides the usual applecare rules? Price isn't much of an issue, and I am in the NY metro area so besides Tekserv, any local stores to look for MBPs?

Get a refurb from the online Apple store. The refurbs are basically same as new, and you can buy applecare for it if you want to.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

IUG posted:

I have a Samsung drive with 2 USB cables, but it works fine if I only plug one into my Macbook.

Apple sends extra power to the first USB port used after a reboot, so if you can consistently use the same one, you can usually power those 2-cable devices with a single port. Of course, if you hardly ever reboot your computer, you'll probably forget which port you activated.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Carl Seitan posted:

Fuuuuuuck. A drink spilled on my wife's Macbook Pro while it was on and it turned off. Pretty sure it's hosed but I don't want to try powering it on.

Anyone have experience with http://www.themacgeniuses.com/technology/macbook-pro-water-damage/? I sure as poo poo don't have the $800 for repair quoted by Apple.

I literally poured half a can on Sprite into my powered on 12 inch G4 a few years ago. I turned it off, took out the battery, and when I tried powering it on the next day, it worked fine, for like 4 more years until the graphics card poo poo itself. Water damage is a very hit or miss thing, it can completely wreck your computer, but it can also just have no effect at all.

Oneiros posted:

It's not a PowerPC, it's a Core 2 Duo. I'll bet that it's the last of the non-unibody model MBPs with the infamous Nvidia 8600 graphics chip.

So yeah, stay the hell away.

You could bake it in an oven at low temp for a few hours, or put a heat gun to the GPU for a while. That should get it going again for a couple of months if you don't accidentally overheat any of the other components. Apparently, the way it usually breaks is that the solder connections between the graphics and logic board become weak after lots of heating/cooling while using the laptop. By heating it up, I guess you can soften the solder enough to make it work for a while. This actually could be useful for getting data off the HD, but it's a much better idea to just take the drive out and put it in an external case.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Bob Morales posted:

The Air isn't glossy - the Pro was. The Retina is somewhere in between. Definitely noticeable though.

The airs are glossy. They aren't as super reflective as the glossy pros, but put them next to a matte pro and the difference is obvious.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Space Gopher posted:

Yes, you can have them replace the battery. No, it won't be free; all MBAs are $129 + tax.

http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_States&product=Macnotebooks

I believe Apple replaces bulging batteries for free, actually. Although maybe the 1st gen Air is too old at this point.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

flavor posted:

I don't think you seriously want any replies, you're just venting. I don't know what was disingenuous about not being able to upgrade CPUs, but whatever.

There were lots of companies offering CPU upgrades for macs starting even before the PowerPC was released. I think other than the G5 towers, and some iMacs, most computers Apple released up to the first generation or two of core 2 duo macs could have their CPUs upgraded. I don't know if you were being disingenuous, but you were definitely wrong.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Bob Morales posted:

And you're still overreacting.

You just lift a corner enough to get your finger under there and then just slide across the top of the iMac to pop the glass off.

Given the cost of suction cups (very little), it would be pretty dumb not to use them.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

dexter6 posted:

I got an offer for my Early 2009 iMac of $550. Think I could get another $100 for it or just sell?

2.66GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
8GB 1067 DDR3 RAM
20" Display
NVIDIA GeForce 9400 256MB graphics
2TB Harddrive
Bluetooth Keyboard
Bluetooth Magic Mouse
OSX 10.9.2

Macofalltrades sells a slightly newer model for $600. Given that they are a retailer, have a warranty, etc, I doubt you would do better than $550 for yours, even with the upgrades (which tend not to affect the resale value much to be honest).

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Butt Savage posted:

I don't mean to do this to go against what you guys are recommending to Hekk, but I need to jump into this rMBP chat because within the next week or two I'm going to be purchasing my first Mac and I'm dead set on the 13" 8/256. But there's one issue. Ever since I read this:


I've been having second thoughts. I've already been burned twice purchasing computers that weren't good at doing anything in particular except feeling slow and disappointing. I know on paper the rMBP should be a beast, but I don't want to make this mistake again, especially if I'm dropping more than a grand on a computer. And as much as I'd like to, anything beyond the 8/256 is too expensive for me.

As usual, here's what I'll be doing with it:

MS Office, web surfing, YouTube, HD video (1080p would be nice), very light gaming (if any). And then there's iMovie stuff, basic photo editing, a Windows VM with the possibility of playing with Linux VMs (nothing serious, I'm no coder/IT guy).

So green light? Caution? Get the Air (but the retina screen is so beauiful :()?

I would be extremely surprised if there wasn't something wrong with that machine. I'm on a 2009 core 2 duo MBP, and I don't have those kinds of issues, although things like slowness can be subjective. I do know that Chrome never takes up enough of my CPU for me to monitor it. I watch 1080p without issues, use a windows vm with virtualbox, do photo editing, and light gaming from your list of what you would use it for (although, not all at once). Considering that the rMBP should blow my laptop out of the water, speed wise, I can't imagine you would have issues with it. I have 8 gb of ram and a rather old 128 gb ssd in it, for comparison.

In any case, you do have 2 weeks to return it, I believe. Not really enough to get a real thorough understanding of what it's capable of, but definitely enough time to test most of your uses.

If this is to be your primary computer, I'd get the rMBP over the air, assuming you can afford it. You could also consider looking at refurbs if you think you might like a 512gb drive. Or if you just want to save a bit of money. Apple refurbs are solid, and come with the same warranty.

ShadeofBlue fucked around with this message at 06:25 on May 11, 2014

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Lexicon posted:

So do the retina 15s have a way of doing a third party SSD upgrade? I know the RAM is hard-wired.

Sort of. It's a proprietary drive, and as far as I know, only OWC sells upgrades, and last time I checked (it's been a while though), they cost as much as Apple's upgrades do.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

I've never bought AppleCare. At this point even if my next computer has some catastrophic failure I still will have saved money.

My feeling is that Apple offers AppleCare because it makes them money, so it has to be inherently a bad deal for the consumer. It can be useful if a major repair would be a serious problem financially, but if you can afford a repair like that, you are unlikely to save money in the long run by buying AppleCare.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Lexicon posted:

^ LOL you could naively make that argument about any transaction ever. X sells Y, so Y must be a bad deal for any customer of X.

From an economic POV, transactions happen if and only if each side values the thing they give up less than what they receive.

Your argument makes no sense. I buy a computer because it performs useful tasks for me. Literally the only thing that AppleCare buys you is the possibility of saving money in the future, and on average, I don't see how it possibly could do that. Thus, the only benefit is to avoid large, unexpected expenses. If you can afford those, then you will save money by not buying AppleCare.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Given that OS X versions are now free, does it really matter what numbers they give them?

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

chupacabraTERROR posted:

Is there anyone with a Late-2013 13in RMBP who can try running civ5?

What's your threshold for being happy with how it runs? I can play it on my 2009 C2D MacBook Pro, at lowest settings, but it's a bit laggy. I'd be surprised if a 2013 laptop couldn't run it in a way that was acceptable for most people.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

spoon daddy posted:

I thought the general advice was that 3rd party batteries were not worth it? I

I'd get the official apple battery if it were me, but I don't have experience with that particular brand.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

IuniusBrutus posted:

How long does Apple typically support Macbooks?

I've been looking at either a 13" Air with 8gb of RAM, or one of the 13" MBPr with 16gb of RAM. This will be a very general purpose laptop - no specialized or heavy needs.

I've lately been falling into a strong buy-once, cry-once mindset, and since I have discovered I don't need Windows or a desktop anymore (I use google drive/docs/consoles/cloud storage for everything) I want to buy something that will work well for a long time, and has good warranty support available (AppleCare+ as well as physical locations are big bonuses to me).

My only concern is that two years down the road that I will be stuck with a laptop that cost $1000-$1500 and is no longer supported, or is nearly-unusable. Obviously this happens with anything in tech, but if I'm not getting any boost in longevity out of an Apple product I will happily continue to buy year-old Thinkpads for much cheaper and use them until they are obsolete instead.

Obviously it depends on how you use your laptop, but it doesn't sound like you will be taxing yours that much. I'm using a 2009 MacBook Pro right now and don't feel the need to upgrade any time soon.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Pryor on Fire posted:

I don't understand how this is supposedly the most solid trouble free hardware you can buy but everyone always recommends you pay for Apple care too? It sure ain't cheap.

*edit lol the gross margins on Apple Care are 90-95%. That is not worth it at all.

Yah, I have no idea why people keep recommending AppleCare, it really makes no sense at all to me.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

I'm not saying that Apple's hardware never fails, but on average you will save a ton of money by never buying AppleCare.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

GokieKS posted:

Based on what? Have you done statistical analysis on number of repairs needed by Apple computers and their costs compared to cost of AppleCare and adjusted for resale value during AppleCare duration? Or is this just "I feel this is true but have nothing to back it up with"?

How about you, do you have any statistics to say that AppleCare is worth it? I have as much to back it up as anyone else in this thread, which is just anecdotes.

Choadmaster posted:

As far as Applecare is concerned, I don't know any exact numbers , but nearly everyone I know with a MacBook has taken advantage of it at least once, if not two or three times (drive failures, saggy hinges, unclicky trackpads, bad batteries, graphics glitches, wifi failures, etc.). Laptops take a lot of abuse and, as FCKGW alludes to, Apple's are so tightly integrated that repairs tend to be expensive. I always recommend Applecare on laptops.

Out of about 14 Apple computers that my family and friends have bought over the years that I can remember, I can think of 3 that had issues that needed expensive repairs. All 3 of them were repaired for free despite having no AppleCare because they were part of recall/extended repair programs (G3 iBook hinge, MacBook top case, MacBook Pro Nvidia graphics). The one time someone I know did buy AppleCare, they didn't end up doing anything with it.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

pseudanonymous posted:

Then don't buy it. Most people in the thread seem to have a positive overall applecare experience. Probably some of it has to do with the volume of usage and the willingness to get small things applecared rather than just dealing with them (clickiness of trackpad).

Well, it's great if they have a good experience, but I wouldn't call it worth spending hundreds of dollars to change the clickiness of my trackpad.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

I use a 17" MBP every day. It's a bit heavy, but in a backpack with just some lunch and a couple of papers, it works fine without getting any back pain or anything. They need to hurry up and make a 17" rMBP so I can afford a used one in a few years :(.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Pivo posted:

It's 1280x800, right? Not even an integer divisor of 2880x1800... So I don't know why they call it "best for Retina" or why they say changing the scaling will affect performance. If it was exactly half the resolution, 1440x900, and the others weren't I could see how that might impact performance. Oh well. I'll play around with it.

My first time owning a Macbook with a glossy display though. I have to say, it's pretty nice, but I don't get that whole "wow this display is awesome" that so many people report with the rMBP. My high-res matte display on the 17" was just as nice. Sure, when I stick my face up to it, I can't see the pixels, but I don't usually stick my face right up in my laptop.

It's exactly half on each axis as far as I know, so 1440x900 for the 15" and 1280x800 for the 13".

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Pivo posted:

Not according to this: https://www.apple.com/ca/macbook-pro/specs-retina/

But that would make the most sense. Looks like they got them backwards on the specs page.

It seems to me like they just aren't calling it a "scaled" resolution, because they definitely didn't get it backwards, the doubled resolutions are just missing from each list.

ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

Pryor on Fire posted:

Ugh do you have to deal with those awful phone lines when buying a mac? I hadn't even thought about that.

There aren't really checkout lines at Apple stores. You just walk up to an employee and they swipe your credit card on their phone. I believe you can even use an app to pay for your stuff yourself and then walk out the door with it.

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ShadeofBlue
Mar 17, 2011

flavor posted:

Unless I'm misinformed, the latest 27" iMac and the new Mac Pro still have user upgradeable RAM, so I don't quite subscribe to that. I still believe it's because of the way ultraportables are built.

And I know it's sacrilege and I'm the absolute worst poster for this, but I've just checked out what difference between 8 and 16 gigs is on a 15" MBP, and it's $200, which makes less than 10% difference, so it's hardly enough for me to get worked up about.

Yah, I agree, I think it's more that they can make the form factor they want more easily if the RAM is soldered. Apple's memory prices tend to fluctuate around "a small premium" to "holy poo poo that's more than double the price" unfortunately. Maybe they'll try harder to stick to the former on non-upgradeable models? I doubt it.

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