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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Methylethylaldehyde posted:

High end IR lenses in the near and far IR are generally germanium or Zinc Selenide, but holy gently caress are optical purity germanium crystals loving expensive. Near IR and visible can get away we certain kinds of borosilicate glass, or fused quartz, lots of options there. The crappy 'night vision' lenses for security cameras use borosilicate, it's the same poo poo they make pyrex dishes out of.
Crappy construction for sure: Pyrex labware is still borosilicate, but the dishes are now tempered soda-lime glass after pyrex sold the name to someone. No longer freezer-to-oven safe. Of course, in places that aren't so brand conscious, pyrex is still borosilicate.

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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Tunicate posted:

like a USB-to-USB cable

Like a USB-to-mains cable.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


therobit posted:

How is induction heating with cast iron? I am in the process of switching all off my pots pans out for cast iron as the non-stick surfaces wear out. Currently I have an electric stove but we are plumbed for gas so it is just a matter of waiting until this one dies or my wife threatens to divorce me over it. Unfortunately we are also looking at moving and everyone who has done updates in the area we are looking at have induction. I'm worried about cast iron scratching the glass top.

Induction is scary awesome with cast iron. Be careful not to heat the cast iron too fast and crack it. I exploded a griddle (with pancakes on it) because I was only cooking on one end. Induction on, forty seconds later, it's up at 350°, pancake on. Fifteen seconds later, the griddle splits in the middle, with one end flying off the counter. That end was still room-temperature cold, with the other end at cooking temp, and the cast iron cracked. I had to be careful with dutch ovens, too, as the bottom can be meat-searing hot and the rim is still cold. I guess it's possible to blow the rims off that way.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Cocoa Crispies posted:

Just ask if you can shoot it off before returning. And you don’t need to use string on the handle, it’s designed to be held while you use it.

Yeah, but they're being recalled for having the nozzle fly off and killing people. Play it safe.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


So does 881 and 910. I've seen 911 for blind rivet style installs where a guaranteed clamping force is necessary. 894, as well. There's a weak joint between the two heads.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Polio Vax Scene posted:

As someone with zero plumbing experience what am I looking at?

box of fittings on the truck to make up a 6" difference in pipe lengths so someone could go home for the weekend. And a future trouble call, to boot.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Blue Footed Booby posted:

Look carefully at that picture. So you see any pastures, or open areas of any significant size? It sure looks like a battery farm, ie industrialized hellscape.

Industrial hellscape that smells like cow piss. Which you can detect from the highway a half mile away with your windows up and A/C on.

Collateral Damage posted:

Wouldn't it be better to use Z brackets so you don't put all the load on the screw threads? Or are those bolted all the way through?

#14 screw fails at 1390lb in shear in wood (against 14ga galvy steel) according to first source in google, 1277lb in tension. Multiply by 8. Seems good enough.

Value Engineering says he probably could have gotten away with #2 screws 3/4" long if he just wanted a 100% safety factor, instead of 2500%.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Javid posted:

:quagmire:

I have built essentially the thing I diagrammed up there for people. It works.

There's a saying around engineering schools: Anyone can build a bridge to take a 10-ton load. Only an engineer can design-build a bridge that can take AT MOST a 10-ton load.

If you just overbuild the rear end out of something, it's possible that you're at 5% of max loading of every component and you'll never know because it'll never fail. If you go do the math on some stuff and find out that (engineering wise) you really only need eight screws and four l-brackets to have a 300% safety factor, then you just saved yourself maybe a couple of bucks in hardware.

Moral: For homeowners and DIYers, go crazy; you're building one, and build it to never, ever, ever fail. The difference in cost is negligible.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


canyoneer posted:

Their lead bridge builder was off somewhere running a church, I doubt he signed off on the construction.

I just wanted you to know this did not go unnoticed.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


H110Hawk posted:

I feel like the CO is suppressing the ability of the H to explode by displacing all of the oxygen and occupants.

I feel the need to point out that carbon monoxide is a very flammable gas; it's a primary combustible component in "wood gas."

It doesn't kill by displacing oxygen; it kills because it's better at grabbing hemoglobin than oxygen is, so even when there's plenty of oxygen in the room, the CO is bound super tight to your red blood cells and you suffocate anyway.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Dirt Road Junglist posted:

Woah, IKEA makes fittings? I thought it was just furniture.

Now that I live 30 minutes from one, instead of 15 hours, I may have to look into this. Do they sell toilets? I have to replace a toilet.

You can literally buy an entire condo from Ikea. From the paint inwards. Furniture, fixtures, kitchen, bathroom, lighting. You can also get everything done to a palette so it all matches and looks good together.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Old Balls McGee posted:

Not to derail a little fruit chat, but in a similar vein the letter Y in French is igrec (ee-greck). A Greek I. It's similar in other languages as well.

I was 27 when I realised this and mildly ashamed. It took meeting my s/o this, since she is Greek

I'm no where near fluent in French, but I did think I retained a a good chunk from high school.

Specifically to continue this language/letter derail (hey, it's still on this page)....

Greek had an "o" sound, and they had a letter for it. Later on, that "o" vowel sound shifted, and spellings were getting messed up, so they invented a new letter. This new letter was also "o" but since it was new, it went at the end of their alpha beta sequence. The original letter was small, and the new letter was big, so they got "little o" and "big o", or, in greek, "o-micron" and "o-mega." That's why omega is the last letter of the greek alphabet: it's the newest letter.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


I'm just going to keep dumping the mixed aircraft paint I don't use into a bathtub and make countertops out of "fordite." It's two-part urethane epoxy.

Unfortunately it's 90% matterhorn white and 10% the most fabulous drab colors from the 80s.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Dr.Smasher posted:

Just wanna say here that dealing with the original wiring in a house built in 1947 sure is an experience. Ugh.

Knob and tube or asbestos cloth?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


HelleSpud posted:

https://imgur.com/gallery/iW04kkR

16 image home inspection gallery with commentary. They're in LA.



The Hills Have Eyes of sistered joists. Cousined joists, perhaps. Brother-mothered joists?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Jaded Burnout posted:

I... see.

They should have it follow the powerlines instead, like an inverted electric tram.

I think that one was the next one on autoplay.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


HelloIAmYourHeart posted:



the HELL is this?

Pigsfeet on Rye posted:

Clearly it's a spring-loaded dick-puncher, and it has apparently seen some action.

With or without the springy snake?

edit: not going to page snipe without the relevant picture.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


tater_salad posted:

i could problby not go to sleep with the constant on off flow of water, rotational vibration and the like.

Join the navy. You can get all that, plus a bunk that is bolted directly to some piece of crucial equipment that vibrates like a brick in a dryer inside a larger dryer!

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


We had an opossum get in under the house and was making a hell of a racket. After the squirrel the previous summer had chewed through the electric and managed to electrify the aluminum siding with its body, I didn't want any more critters. I called Animal Control and they said they could drop off a live trap in a few days, week or so maybe, and then get it a couple of weeks later if I got anything. I worked nights and didn't really want this animal scratching at the underside of the house while I tried to sleep, so I went to talk with the neighbor.

I told the neighbor there was an opossum under my house and did he have a trap? He said he didn't, so I asked if it would be OK if I shot the thing. "Don't be too noisy with it and I don't think anyone will care" he says. After all, who reports gunshots on a weekday morning?

So I got my .22 pistol with a red dot sight and a flashlight and opened the crawlspace. Flashlight showed two sets of eyes, so I took aim at the upper set and fired. The eyes disappeared and there was much thrashing. Some more probing with the light and I didn't see any more eyes, so I ventured alllll the way to the back corner of the house where I found a shot opossum in a puddle of water caused by condensate dripping off the vent where he'd torn the insulation away.

So I stuff the guy into a plastic bag and tie it, then stuff that in another bag and tie it. I then drop the whole plastic-wrapped mess into the garbage can and go inside to finally go to sleep.

I had forgotten it was trash day. That opossum was double-bagged inside a black plastic trash can in the summer sun for a week. After about 5 days, I took the can down to the curb because the smell was already getting pretty serious. When the trash guys finally dumped the bin, it stayed on the curb, open, for a while before my wife would let it back near the house. It was a smell you could feel in your mouth. Feel behind your eyes. It was intense.

That is my "I can shoot things and get away with it because I'm American" story.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Blue Footed Booby posted:

Also, don't kill possums. They're resistant to rabies and eat pests like ticks.

I didn't know that at the time :(

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Blistex posted:

Well, Home Hardware went to bat and must have went in swinging. They negotiated a $5k increase which HH will eat.

I guess they threatened to get corporate involved and also asked how many other truss suppliers there are in province.

That is the opposite of what I expected to happen.

Great job for all the humans at HH that did a good thing for you!

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


cakesmith handyman posted:

So we're all agreed the golden standard is 400v 400hz right? *Dies clicking a light switch*

3-phase 120/208 400Hz, yeah. USB chargers fully integrated into a USB-A plug.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Powerful Two-Hander posted:

It's a well, actually.

I appreciated this.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Vim Fuego posted:

Through the water pipe??!?

Common in the old days. Electricity was mysterious and nobody knew the right answer, so they'd run one wire from the fuse panel to the light fixture (since outlets hadn't been invented yet since electric motors hadn't been invented yet) and then from the light fixture to the water pipe.

That trend continued after outlets for some time, and then the NEC was invented to keep people from getting electrocuted when they tried to wash dishes at night.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Extant Artiodactyl posted:

i don't want to derail with historical quibbling but what the hell are you talking about? electric motors predate home electricity. they're one of the first applications of power! sure, corded appliances with motors probably lagged behind lighting but i'm also not finding anything about using the water line to complete your branch circuits, even in the oldest wiring. not that i don't believe you, just if you have a source at the ready i'd like to see it, that sounds fun!

I have a book of my Grandfather's that he got when he became an electrician from one of the old guys. There's talk in there about the extravagance of running a second conductor to light fixtures, and how electrocutions are the fault of the plumbers for not getting their joints together tightly enough so that the water itself must be the return path. I would love to get it scanned at some point; it's exceptionally fragile now.

I have a book on the proceedings of the ohio electric light association (which, coincidentally is on Google Books). There is much talk about the practice of bonding water pipes to prevent faults, but no actual mention of using them as the second conductor. I assume this is because my volume is from after the invention of the NEC, where that practice was specifically forbidden. Based on everything else in the NEC, they wouldn't make a specific rule stating you have to run two conductors to lights unless there were a problem with not doing it that way.

It's entirely possible that the whole story is propaganda from the "war of the currents" in the late 1890s and was entirely made up by Edison to discredit alternating current, then passed down as oral tradition by generations of electricians.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


nm posted:

All siding should be cedar planks or redwood shingles. I will not take any further questions.

All buildings should be sunk into the side of a hill and have verdure upon, along with round, brightly-painted doors. I care not where you direct any questions. I'll be on my bench with some Old Toby.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


nm posted:

This is also fine.

While that post was mostly not serious, my parent's coast house has 1960s unpainted redwood shingles and they've only had to replace a few which is loving impressive.

My house has what I believe to be 100 yo cedar or redwood clapboard that some jackass po covered in stucco (it did appear to have been done properly) that I would love to un cover, but I'm sure that's impossible.

One of my friends bought a house with a slate roof and teak siding. It was built by and for a shipwright in the 1800s. There was a hurricane and they lost some roof tiles. They tried to find someone to replace them and the closest person that was willing to make them some was in Wales. I went over to see how bad the damage was; while inspecting their attic, I found knob-and-tube wiring that was still in use, about a hundred or so planks (3/8" thick, 8" wide, 8' long) of that teak siding, and ~80 or so new slates.

I joked that they could sell the siding and slates and have the house for free.

Except for the knob-and-tube and the bulk cotton waste/paper waste insulation, that house was the opposite of crappy construction.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Platystemon posted:

The first one I get because they’re pulling a fast one on inspectors, but as to the second, I am not able rightly to apprehend the kind of confusion of ideas that could provoke such a construction.

Had a half-switched outlet or just some outlet with the tab broken off in the toolbag and used it anyway. Waste not, want not. Should probably have connected neutrals at some point, but who's bickering?

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


power crystals posted:

No, wait, it turns out I missed the best one. There's a bundle of random wires hanging in the air in the crawlspace. They go back up through a pair of holes in the coat closet up to the attic, where they terminate... in a set of boxes of spooled wire. I don't even know where to begin with this. Like they set the boxes down, pulled wire to the crawlspace, and then moved out.
I did a side job for a friend recently and found a box of romex from 1976 in the attic. It was live. Just fifty-ish feet of 12-2 NM cable, coiled in the box, energized by the garage light.

ROJO posted:

Yeah, I basically wouldn't trust any electrical engineer I know to come anywhere near my home wiring.

PO of my house was a Controls Engineer. They're like EEs, except don't believe in grounds. Ever. So much wiring with the grounds cut flush outside the box. So much wiring done with lamp cord or SO cord or speaker wire or.... I get it. 24VAC can get away with 22ga wire. 120VAC for lights? Not so much. Timer circuits with several transformers in the box because he's just stealing stuff from work so there's 6VAC relays and 24VAC timers and the whole thing is flying-spliced into some NM in the crawlspace and there's not a fuse to be found.

No. No pictures.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


gwrtheyrn posted:

Just make the entire house out of stainless steel

I work in a place with big fryers. We boil them out with a sulfuric acid/hydrogen peroxide solution. It's bone-hurting juice. Pieces of aluminum have inadvertently made their way into the fryer and were 100% dissolved.

We also have Super-Alk HD, which is pH 12.5 in 1% solution with water. It's a HEAVY amber liquid.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


StormDrain posted:

Procedurally generated stairs.

Maybe if your procedure had a fencepost error and a divide-by-zero.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


3D Megadoodoo posted:

Where's the water gonna go?

It could be an installation in the desert. For most of my formative years I never dried a dish. I'd pull it out of the dishwasher and by the time it made it into the cupboard it was dry.

It also took about 11 minutes for a pair of jeans to dry on the line out back. Sopping wet to board stiff in under a quarter hour.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Cyrano4747 posted:

Pole inspector.

This did not get enough love.

Cat Hatter posted:

Necessary for when you get this many of the areas hottest coeds together under one roof!

In the same voice as Monster Truck Sunday Announcer, and yes.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Motronic posted:

They're not and for more reasons than that. Touching them is exactly how you get them to start leaking.

Never touch one unless you have replacement in your hand.

I recently had a T&P fail to reset. This is a circulation system in an industrial bakery and we need 185°F water to keep things moving. The T&P popped (rated for 45psi, 205°F) and, after shutting the heater off, would not reset. It would vomit water any time the temp got above 74°F!

Called a plumber because I'm not about messing with an actual safety system. He replaced the T&P and then helpfully set the water temperature on the heater to 120°F. On a system placarded as "185°F: circulation water." I then had 28,000 pounds of shortening freeze in the ceiling. You wanna know how you get a zero out of five stars rating? This is how.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Arrath posted:

Tri-wing honestly seems like a good design. Someone tell me why I'm wrong.

Double post, but this needs its own.

Tri-wing and S-type are designed to only ever tighten, only, ever. Never loosen. They're anti-tamper of the FYGM variety. You'll see both of these in such illustrious construction as: prisons, public toilets, high schools, bus shelters, and other places where you don't want anyone to loiter or have any ability to modify their environment.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


brugroffil posted:

They typically give GPH ratings for horizontal/0' lift and 10' lift. I would imagine most systems are running in 7'-10' basements plus sump depth and need to get out to ~ground level. It all comes down to head loss, which is combo of vertical lift, bends, and length.

I have a sump pump that lists lift at different head heights. It'll give 10' of lift with 1' of head pressure, but 28' of lift with 3' over the inlet. Turbine bastard.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

There's a box on the other side of the wall, right? I'm no electrician, but I feel like this is probably fine, so long as the exterior box is caulked.

You're not an electrician. This is not fine. At a minimum, there needs to be a cable clamp on that cable.

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I will of course bow to people who know what they're talking about, but to explain my thought process: if there's a box on either side of a wall, and the cable just goes straight through the wall between those two boxes (a run of like 2 inches), then what purpose is a cable clamp actually serving? It's not like anything can get in there to pull on the cable, right?

EDIT: I want to make it clear that I'm not trying to start a fight here. I'm trying to get a better education.

Take it up with the NFPA and NEC 312.5(C).

Only registered members can see post attachments!

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


HolHorsejob posted:

This was a large part of how the ghost ship fire happened. Lots of construction using shipping pallets. Apart from being ideal for, you know, shipping, the hollow construction with good circulation makes them go up like a christmas tree in april.

Like a Texas Tech Homecoming!

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babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


Sash! posted:

You never realize how close your hand comes to things until you break a finger, get one of those metal finger splints, and then snag it on literally everything around you.

You could coin a catchy phrase.

"sticks out like a finger splint."
no...
"sticks out like a hurt finger."
not quite.

Maybe "sticks out like a sore thumb" could work.

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