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Johnny Truant posted:Huh, I definitely did not know this, thanks. Even with MalwareBytes and BitDefender plugging directly into the modem is still no bueno? It takes minutes directly exposed to the internet for you to start getting hit with attempts for viruses and other malware. It's not a good idea to do this, ever. It used to be around 10 minutes for a windows computer (think XP) to get a virus. It's hard to properly explain how ugly it is out there. Things have gotten better but don't do it. I expose ports to the internet and accept unsolicited connections for data processing for a living.  Coming up on 15 years at it.
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Sep 24, 2019 21:04
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peepsalot posted:Whoops, didn't realize this was a thing. OK, I tried "30/30/30" and well, it didn't seem to fully initialize/boot after the last 30, until another power cycle, not sure if that's normal. But anyways after that it seemed to have same crashing issues. ah DD-WRT. What a poo poo show. When you say it didn't seem to fully boot after flashing, how long were you waiting? The claimed "120s" or whatever for my Asus was actually something like 20-30 minutes. I gave up and did something else and came back to it working. And basically, always be zapping nvram. Don't worry, eventually dd-wrt will kill it permanently and in 2-3 years you will buy a new one. You're sure this didn't work? https://kb.netgear.com/30510/How-do-I-set-static-Domain-Name-System-servers-on-my-NETGEAR-router
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Oct 6, 2019 21:23
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peepsalot posted:I think i'm gonna give OpenWRT a try, and if that doesn't work, I'll revert to factory and just set DNS manually on each individual device, or maybe get a new router. If you can return it then do that. Get an er-x since you seem to be inclined to separate your wifi from your routing. Never look back, or forwards to 2.x firmware for that matter. Latest 1.x is what you want.
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Oct 6, 2019 23:09
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ickna posted:0.90*warranty_period - consumer apathy at having to argue with the agent in some other country on a 24kbps voip line and then a promise of internet in 10-14 days and oh god is best buy still in business?
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Oct 7, 2019 02:51
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peepsalot posted:I went ahead and ordered an ER-X from amazon yesterday, should be here in two more days. I still had a couple small questions that maybe were missed since I was editing them in while astral was replying. Ubiquiti are morons and nothing can just be nice. Basically their 2.x firmware is broken and they haven't fixed it yet. Same with the POE - they started out with a hold my beer 24v approach which was a dumb idea and that engineer should have been fired for thinking of it, let alone implementing it. So, no. The ER-X has a power brick, use that. It makes me mad that consumer garbage is so bad that this stuff which is marginally better gets a pass. Thankfully they're coming around to using POE standards (802.3af), I believe it's what your UAP-AC uses.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:17
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Inept posted:It's probably another case of underpaid overworked devs at a small company drowning in management's segmentation mess. Ubiquiti has a million loving products and even within product lines their routers use entirely different CPU architectures. It's crazy how this company could be the end-all be-all if they halved their product lineup and stopped segmenting out everything as though people care what the leading product category is called. But then a bunch of overpaid VP's wouldn't be able to pad their resumes with the new products they delivered.
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Oct 7, 2019 21:32
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stevewm posted:My understanding of 24V PoE is this... Which is all a holdover from POTS telecom gear. Lick your phone line and it's 24v. (I forget the exact spec.)
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Oct 7, 2019 21:47
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ScooterMcTiny posted:I just moved from a 700 sq ft apartment to a space twice as big, and my current network gear is showing its age. The place is wired out the rear end with coax, but apparently the only point with strong enough signal for the cable internet modem You might be able to fix this up with some sandpaper if the copper connectors are just dirty and corroded. Open up the wall plates if they are the threaded side of the F-connector (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F_connector) on the wall and make sure everything is clean and snug on the back. If there is a splitter in the apartment anywhere (check outside walls, closets, that sorta thing) verify it's new and modern. Sadly the best time to do that is when the tech is there so you can sweet talk a new one out of them. Check all connections are clean and snug. Try unplugging all of them and tracing if a single run is causing your issues. Coaxial wire at its core is
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Oct 8, 2019 18:54
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eddiewalker posted:Hoping this is at least thread-adjacent: Last night we had a big storm and a it appears as though a lightning strike entered through my Comcast coax. Lightning arresters are no joke and that ground wire wouldn't have saved you. I mean, ask them because gently caress Comcast but if they refuse then that's likely final. Get the wire fixed, or as the lightning would have seen it: the microsecond alternative path with fusible link.
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Oct 11, 2019 02:50
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eddiewalker posted:Would this help? Probably for one way down the wire where you're only getting a large transient, but if you take a hit at your pole nothing short of a thick grounding path above the pole is going to save you. You need lots of conductive surface area for the lightning to ride. Lightning is a lot of electricity. It takes a lot of volts to jump small air gaps (spark plugs for example - Looking at somewhere in the 44KV range iirc,) this has jumped clear from the ground into the sky and the first few results from google tell me this is 10-120MV. It can cut trees in half. If that little thing saved you I would expect it to have literally exploded and still kill the first thing in line. If you want to save your electronics in a lightning storm, unplug them. TVs, fridge, landline telephones (lol), the cable and ethernet ports that run outside, the works. If it's a copper/aluminum wire that goes to the elements, unplug it.
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Oct 11, 2019 15:28
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Goodpancakes posted:I live in the Los Angeles metro and my super old land lady doesn't tolerate wires on the outside of the complex or I'd just get Spectrum. It's a great time. You say complex - is this an apartment? She's required to grant you access to do things like put up a dish or get cabletv or a telephone line. This isn't up to her. If it's a private residence where you rent a room then I could see her argument.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:08
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Goodpancakes posted:She lives in an upper back unit on top of six other units. Where does that land her responsibility here? Pretty sure she's SOL unless you are literally sharing a house with her. If it's 6 apartments and she happens to occupy one I believe she has to grant you access. What do the two providers (Frontier/ATT or "Spectrum" / TWC-Charter-Cast) say when you call to add service? Who is your local incumbent phone provider, ATT or Frontier? If it's ATT you might poke the hornets nest and see what "uverse" speeds you can get with their vDSL system. If it's agreeable, switch to needing a real landline telephone line. Copper to the pole. I would also sign up for DirecTV. Thanks Ants posted:Find someone across the street with decent internet and do a wireless point-to-point shot, then pay them half their bill. This is a great option but lacks the spite. Heck, at that point become a WISP for the building and offer her service for over double the price of everyone else to subsidize it.
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Oct 15, 2019 23:52
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Thermopyle posted:Is that a CA/LA thing? It's a CA thing to my knowledge: https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/codes_displaySection.xhtml?lawCode=CIV§ionNum=1941.4 - Get a phone line. Seriously. Expect to be non-renewed on your lease.  If you have a porch/balcony/etc get DirecTV service: https://www.fcc.gov/media/over-air-reception-devices-rule
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Oct 16, 2019 00:31
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Goodpancakes posted:Alright, I'm gonna try to complete this dumb networking project. Do you hope to do packet processing on the pi? (pihole for example)? If so, Pi -> Archer LAN, wan port is empty. DHCP runs on one of two devices, NAT runs on the Pi, Pi inside interface (LAN side) gets a RFC1918 address (192.168.1.1/24 for example), Archer gets a random IP (192.168.1.254/24). sysctl enable routing on the pi. Set DNS in the DHCP handout to the Pi. Enable iptables/firewalld default deny inbound on the outside interface on the pi (your LTE modem.) Follow a guide, you need to do it statefully and only allow packets in from established connections. There are a zillion guides out there for "linux router." Your Archer is a dumb switch where one of the ports happens to be a wifi access point.
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Oct 21, 2019 23:08
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Goodpancakes posted:I actually don't care as long as it serves internet. But I've bungled the settings so much it can't get internet and I'm not sure how it's loving up at the moment. If you can `curl whatismyip.akamai.com` from your pi you're off to a good start. Hit "sudo iptables-save" and "sudo systemctl -a | grep net.ipv4" and "ip addr" and slap em in a pastebin. find/replace your actual public ip to 172.0.0.1 (this is the LTE modem IP.) I'm betting you either missed the net route parameter, don't have iptables setup to masquerade (NAT), or both. Remember, pi eth0 -> LAN 0 on the Archer. Heck, try just slapping a wired laptop into pi eth0 and seeing what happens.
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Oct 22, 2019 01:41
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Goodpancakes posted:Thanks for taking a look. Hrm, I don't know what the options are in whatever version of linux you're running to see the sysctl options. You could dump the whole shebang. Lets also see "ip route show". So far nothing stands out other than it looks like you're going to be double nat'd out that usb modem. (It has a RFC1918 address on your usb0 interface.) Edit: Your guide specifies the net.ip4.ip_forward=1 option, which makes me think your kernel/os exposes it differently and that is blocking the whole thing. For example, in Fedora Core Something running Linux 5.godknowswhat I get 440 options: $ sudo sysctl -a | grep net.ipv4 | wc 440 1330 17147 H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Oct 22, 2019 |
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Oct 22, 2019 19:57
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Thanks Ants posted:It seems like the most confusing thing about IPv6 isn't really the differences between it and IPv4, it's that NAT goes away. If we had enough IPv4 addresses then you'd have a small subnet used to connect your router back to your ISP, and then a /24 or whatever of public space to use internally as well. Yup. All devices are directly addressable and you better be certain you have a default deny firewall in the way. It's going to be hilarious the first company who forgets that in the consumer world. (It has probably happened in the corporate world because it is common enough in ip4 land.)
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Oct 23, 2019 14:02
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nerox posted:I never knew ipv6 did this stuff, but how do you ever remember an ipv6 address? Same way as a ipv4: you use dns like it's not the 1980's.
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Oct 24, 2019 02:23
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derk posted:I am just chiming in that I have been following this thread for a long time, I have thought about getting a UniFi Lite AP for a long time. I have run into issues with wireless networking to the lower apartment and have tried the Nighthawk R7000, and my good ol Asus RT-N16. Nothing really wowed me or performed to what I deemed acceptable.  a thread success story. I was also a holdout and now I regret the year+ of lovely speeds on my failing Asus router. Smythe posted:Greetings. I'm here because I'm really stupid and once again asking for free consulting. If you have any kind of reasonable budget I would not split this hair. Yes it's 110% more expensive but you're looking at $60 in absolute terms. Larger SMB netgears should be fine, but why not spend the extra grand and get a switch that gets you all the features you need out of the gate? Heck, check ebay for a used Juniper EX2300-48P. All ports POE (no more warts for your phones or APs), can tag a phone vlan (which your phone can autoconfigure off of with LLDP) etc?
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Nov 7, 2019 19:17
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Have you set the pihole as your resolver on your client (computer)?
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Nov 9, 2019 01:48
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Paul MaudDib posted:I've never used a mesh system but I thiiiiinkkkk you need a router too? I think the mesh units are just wireless access points, they don’t do DNS/firewall/etc These systems are often all identical devices and whichever one you setup first and has "the internet" plugged into it becomes the router.
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Nov 19, 2019 04:19
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Fallom posted:Kind of bummed that I’ve had to restart my AP AC Pro several times already to bring the 5 GHz network back to life. That’s exactly the kind of problem I was hoping to avoid by going with an AP over a combo router. Rma time. It's commercial gear, treat it like such.
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Nov 20, 2019 19:16
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Basically every UPS I see on Amazon has some review that's like one-star, I noticed a burning smell and it nearly set my house on fire. That's the only reason I haven't bought one yet - feels like, I'd rather lose just my data than lose my data and also my house. Anyone know of a truly bulletproof consumer one? Basically set a calendar reminder for 3 years from the installation date to actually replace the battery before it explodes. Better yet look at the manufacture date on the battery and do the same thing. Charles posted:If you have a computer plugged into those via USB and it auto shutdown, does it kill power to everything else? Trying to figure out what happened a while back. The UPS would not let me power it back on because it thought it was in shipping mode. No. You would need software to do that for you based on the signal from the ups.
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Nov 25, 2019 02:38
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Charles posted:It's just a Windows 10 PC, which basically treats it like a laptop battery and I set it to turn off when the battery reaches 95%, though I would figure that just turns off the PC and not the whole UPS. Oh well, I can experiment with it some non-critical time and see what happens. Set it to 75%. Over time the battery will lose capacity and you don't want a transient to power down your system. Or 50% why not use your ups?
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Nov 25, 2019 16:55
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Charles posted:It powers the ONT, router, and phones, which are the things I care about keeping on. I just have the PC on it for graceful shutdown. Got it. Either way I would bump it down to 90% to give yourself some wiggle room against nuisance power offs. Once under load it could meter itself at 95% on a sag and shut down instantly. Or leave it and any nuisance trip use as a method of knowing your battery is shot and needs replacing. (Versus the power actually being off for 5 minutes.)
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Nov 25, 2019 19:00
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dyne posted:Fiber question: LC duplex preterm multimode om3 is likely what you want. You match optic to cable. I remember them as little connector and standard connector but it's actually lucent connector for the little ones. Single mode can shoot light 10km and om3 multimode can shoot light 300meters. You are well within spec here. You will want to separate the fiber from the power lines, but laying another run of conduit is trivial compared to digging a trench. Otherwise they make armored direct burial fiber but seriously put in another run of conduit. Otherwise a point to point wireless link is perfect here assuming direct line of sight. Edit: just looked at the media converters - those are SC. they make lc/sc adapters if you ever change what you use in the future.
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Nov 27, 2019 05:21
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If you need more than 10gig to run your solar array data collector I feel like you're doing something wrong. Edit: Google gave me this company that does long length preterm: https://fibercablesdirect.com/home/46-10-gig-om3-mm-dx-50-125-fiber-jumper-lc-lc.html#/length-150_meter 115meters is $180. Order it longer than you need. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Nov 27, 2019 |
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Nov 27, 2019 15:18
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dyne posted:Thanks for the replies. Bandwidth requirements are low but it sounds like single mode is the way to go as they seem not that different in price., and I guess just go with connectors that are compatible with the media converter or switches I get. Can you link the "outdoor" cable? Is it their "armored" cable? It says it will stand up to moisture which could be am issue in your conduit. In theory once you lay it you will never have to touch it again. You could roll the dice on the $35 cable and if/when your conduit floods use it as a pull-cord to get armored into there. Make sure you keep your bend radius low, using SC connectors is going to ensure you have plenty of conduit space though. Note shipping is also very high on the armored cable due to its weight.
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Nov 27, 2019 18:27
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dyne posted:I had been looking at this one for indoor/outdoor: https://www.fs.com/products/29584.html (add 400' length, SC duplex connectors, and a pull eye to get to $200). I don't think it's armored (this seems to be their armored one: https://www.fs.com/products/70220.html) Those spools are heavy, and the outer jacket is going to add a ton of dimension. Add to that it's coming from China directly, suddenly it costs a lot of money.
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Nov 27, 2019 19:08
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CrazyLittle posted:I forget the specific details but basically: Only if you expose ports to the internet or there is a bug (security or otherwise) that happens at the packet flow processing layer (super rare). If you're doing 100% dumb NAT and don't hit any bugs there is 0 reason to upgrade a working system. It does mean you need to be more aware of what's going on from an exploit standpoint but it's likely you already are if you're savvy enough to buy one of these ER-X things.
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Dec 19, 2019 22:25
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My sister in law wants an all in one cable modem and wifi router. She is not technical. Is whatever arris slaps a 802.11ac wireless onto going to be "fine" ? She probably has a <=100mbps package, whatever is close to the starter range. She will never upgrade to something like gigabit unless it's somehow cheaper than the other options.
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Dec 30, 2019 21:58
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CrazyLittle posted:Though if you don't mind having to dick around with resetting the modem occasionally, you'll get by a lot cheaper with a Netgear LB1120 LTE modem. If it's a hangar, is this in continuous use? Put the modem and router on a switch-controlled outlet. Flip it on when there, flip it off when you leave. Or just leave it on and powercycle it every time it gives you trouble.
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Jan 2, 2020 23:37
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Tirux posted:Thanks for the tip, I will change channels to 1 and 11 respectively. If you don't have any B or G devices set it to N-only. If you do have any B devices, throw them away. (I realize that old Wii's or whatever only had B, which was pretty silly of them at the time.)
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Jan 3, 2020 18:21
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Heners_UK posted:Just to be sure, that's not general advice is it? I've got a single SSID, on one of those as it's ostensibly the least congested area of the spectrum. It is. Basically they never should have put in support for anything other than 1/6/12 in modern wifi firmwares but we all know how well that goes. Pick one and go with it, but seriously consider getting up to AC, you likely have very few devices which actually need old B/G crap. If they're IoT garbage consider throwing them away ( )or using a dedicated SSID just for them and letting your nicer stuff have uncongested space.
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Jan 3, 2020 19:41
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Heners_UK posted:Changed. Directly acted upon the advice of this thread. Changed channels no IoT garbage See if you can turn off G! (And yeah, as I recall 5GHz there's no trivial pitfalls.) (Careful if you have a Kindle or Chromecast or similar, I RMA'd one because it was G-Only and I jumped to N. Oops.)
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Jan 3, 2020 19:55
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My nano HD yields way more signal than I expected and I have plaster walls you can stick a magnet to pretty much anywhere. I like to confuse people with it.
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Jan 7, 2020 05:11
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Fabulousity posted:1. Doesn't occlude the other outlet https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9MCTGL/ Or order them from monoprice: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5296 Never care about that again.
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Jan 9, 2020 00:26
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Hirez posted:12... and some are mounted on roofs/fences/etc; I've pulled the plug on a bunch of random ones but the data spikes are very bursty; and everythings back to normal after like 5-10 minutes or a hard reboot; got a dd-wrt router but doesn't show bandwidth usage other than live charts of total in/out; meh I hate networking If they aren't supposed to be talking to the cloud you can setup an access policy on dd-wrt which prevents them from egressing to the internet. gently caress em. My sketchy webcams try to talk to china all the time. Before I got my er-x I used dd-wrt to prevent them.
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Jan 9, 2020 05:07
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BlackMK4 posted:These are probably normal dumb questions, but I just bought a three story condo that has a media box in the garage. Normal operating procedure is to use the cat5. What is your goal here by ripping out perfectly good wire? I would leave as much as you can in the garage and just put a switch inside the house to give you more gig-e ports.
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Jan 30, 2020 04:29
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If you have to pull or are having actual issues yeah pull whatever is reasonably priced from monoprice by the spool. Probably 6a by this point. Cat5 is in fact rated at 1000base-t and depending on when it was installed is probably 5e anyways. Test it first to see if it works. 2001 is when 5e came out and not long after base cat5 was entirely discontinued. When was this wire installed? Most places back when 5 was the standard still pulled cat3 for telephone service, where post 5e times you eventually saw a switch to cat5e for telephone service as it became cheaper given its ubiquity in the market and the drop off of people actually using cat3 pots lines.
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Jan 30, 2020 05:13
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