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Jaded Burnout posted:This look about right? Check with the seller if the cameras include the af to passive poe converter(the sku should end with af), they are much more reliable than included power bricks. EDIT: Where are you going to store the recorded videos? Unifi video requires either a vm with storage or its own appliance(called unifi nvr) SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 21:02
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Jaded Burnout posted:It looks like the US-48-500W supports autosensing passive 24V as well as af/at. Passive 24v is something you want to avoid if possible(if you connect a standard Poe device without passive power sensing you are going to fry it, unifi uap have the circuitry to go failsafe, other brands don't), if you have the possibility to pay the same or a minimal expense I suggest to get the af injector equipped kit. You are going to need a device(vm within nas for instance) that runs the unifi video software. A Linux vm with a couple of gigs of ram and 250+ g of storage will suffice.
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Aug 30, 2017 21:38
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Jaded Burnout posted:What I mean is the switch supports both passive and af/at, unless I'm misunderstanding? So it shouldn't matter what I connect to it. Yes, It can provide both type of power over Ethernet. My general uneasiness with passive Poe is mostly about possible device damage. For instance if you fat finger wiring up a port that you set up for a camera to say your smart tv I cannot guarantee that your smart tv will like it(and survive the experience). Passive Poe doesn't "sense" device compatibility like active Poe, it constantly pump power to the port if it detects a device connected to. G3 wired cameras are passive either way but by having all ports drive active Poe with af converters and negotiate power capabilities before delivering you can avoid frying devices you connect to the wrong switch port. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 22:05
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, it seems Ubiquiti has been putting 802.3af/at in some of their previously 24v only devices, and not documenting the change. I recently got a UAP-AC-Lite, which if you look on their website is only 24v, but is actually 802.af compatible. All unifi ac access point can be driven by af or at active Poe if they are manufactured after September 2016. Cameras are still 24v only but you can buy them with an af instant converter in the box for certain models. Switches were supposed to phase out passive Poe but they suffered massive backslash by not changing sku codes for the new variants so they backed off, only new models won't support passive Poe for now
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Aug 30, 2017 22:20
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Jaded Burnout posted:Fair enough. Do you know where on ubiquiti's blasted website the downloads are for these "install it on a linux box" pieces of software? Like the AV recorder one too? There'll be a local server available for this sort of thing. If you use ubuntu there are repos that you can use to install the controller(apt-get install unifi) SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Aug 30, 2017 |
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Aug 30, 2017 22:30
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@xenoborg, you are going to need something to run the ubiquiti unifi controller software. You can use a Linux vm on your nas, a spare server, a raspberry pi or the ubiquiti cloudkey(you could use a pc/mac and turn on the controller software on when you need to make changes but you lose most of the reporting features so I don't advise doing so).
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Sep 11, 2017 20:03
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Xenoborg posted:This is basically Greek to me. I just want to get a thing in my office that will take the Ethernet cable from my modem and do a wifi and few more Ethernet cables to computers. If my previous post is imperscrutabile to you, add a ubiquiti cloudkey to your shopping list, it's the simplest way to use/deploy a ubiquiti access point.
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Sep 11, 2017 21:08
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Raere posted:Is it feasible to replace telephone wiring in a house with cat6? I'm willing to have an electrician do it, but I'm wondering if it's even possible. The house that I'm buying doesn't seem to have any sort of central hub, just a telephone box on the outside of the house. I'd like to have ethernet jacks in every room that go to a patch panel in one of the rooms where I can put a switch. Perfectly doable(i've done it in my own apartment), keep in mind that cat5-6 unshielded is slightly thicker than standard telephone wire but cat5-6-7 shield is double the thickness of telephone wire. Check your conduits/corrugated pipes to see how much spare space you have before ordering bulk cable. If the box is outside the house i would try to use shielded wire and to setup some ESD protection.
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Oct 12, 2017 07:42
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
On the UBNT forums the best results for noise reduction from the poe switches fans have been found by replacing the fans from the default deltas to blackarmor or noctua(they make less noise by pushing less air so the thermals are worse, caveat emptor). Also remember to disable poe from the unused ports, that way the fans will spin less than the stock conf(which enable POE on all ports). SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 18:50 on Oct 16, 2017 |
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Oct 16, 2017 18:47
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Warranty is void if you open them but i don't know if a proper soundproofing setup is less expensive than the switch. 40mm fans are a bitch to silence.
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Oct 16, 2017 19:48
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emocrat posted:Yeah? I am not really familiar with either, so why is that? (I will look for instructions on that now, thanks). UPNP tends to leak like a sieve so unifi doesn't enable by default. You can enable it but i advise against doing so. I do have a USG3, you need to set up a IP reservation on the unifi controller and set up port forwarding rules for UDP-32400 on the ip you set up for the plex host(if you have a unifi 5.5 controller under devices->usg or under site settings->firewall&port forward if you have 5.6).
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Oct 18, 2017 15:28
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CrazyLittle posted:Zyxel GS1920-24 Gigabit Ethernet Smart Managed Switch +1 to that recomendation. I have one of these and they are very good for their price(the gui is cryptic at times but the manual explain everyting you need).
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Oct 26, 2017 12:13
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bsaber posted:I have a wireless security camera that is located about 100-130 feet from a UAP-AC-PRO. It can see the wireless signal but it’s not strong enough to send a signal back. According to the OP, I should be looking at the Ubiquiti nanostations. You could try using a UAP-AC-M (https://store.ubnt.com/products/unifi-ac-mesh-ap)to connect the camera to the wireless network. Can you provide an extra AC outlet to the Mesh AP?
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Oct 29, 2017 09:45
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bsaber posted:Hm, not sure if it will work. The camera is outside the building with the power to it being run from inside out to it. The nearest AC outlet I could plug the mesh AP into doesn’t seem to be able to pick up the wireless (at least according to my phone). I guess I could run an Ethernet to some place that could pick up the signal as the mesh AP looks to be powered by POE. You can use a ac-m like a nanostation, receiving the wifi from the ac in your house and providing a ethernet link to the camera. Split the camera power source in two (to feed both camera and ac-m) and you are set. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Oct 29, 2017 |
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Oct 29, 2017 21:57
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Vidaeus posted:So I'm trying to setup a wireless bridge (I think that's what it's called?). I have my main router which is a Netgear Nighthawk R7000. I want to setup an old router I have (Netcomm NB6plus4W) as a secondary in my living room. There are no ethernet cables between my main router and the living room. I'd like to be able to connect my devices from my living room (media PC, XBOX, etc) to my secondary router using ethernet cables, then connect the secondary router to the main over Wifi, so they all sit nicely on the same LAN as well as having internet access. Your netcomm doesn't support wifi client mode, you are going to need a wifi bridge or repeater.
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Oct 30, 2017 11:27
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bsaber posted:Ah, cool. I'll give it a try. Thanks for the help! You will need to connect and adopt the ac-m using a physical link on the first boot, then you are free to go. if you want a quick video showing you the basics here's one from crosstalk solutions https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2tOOPwVjxw
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Oct 31, 2017 09:41
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Vidaeus posted:OK thanks. Just to clarify - I plug one end of the powerline next to my main router and run an ethernet cable from the router into the powerline. Then the other powerline goes in my living room, and I connect that to my switch which can then connect to my XBOX, media PC, etc? TP-link AV1200 are available with a integrated 3 port switch(or 3-port switch+wifi) while AV2000 are available with a two port switch. Sold in pairs, security paired from the factory, no need to do anything beside plugging them to your mains and wiring up your devices.
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Oct 31, 2017 09:44
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In recent times, if a non-stingy friend or relative asks me for help for their home network I always point them to a basic unifi stack(usg-3, cloudkey, us-8-60 and a uap-ac-pro) after giving a look at their home electic wiring conduit to lay down some cat6 hard line. None of the people who bought that have never called me back for support after i set it up and showed them how to manage it, they work just fine. They aren't as cheap as consumer routing kit from D-Link or Netgear but they receive quick updates and if you don't jump in the unstable/beta branch they are reliable. If you want the complete "i don't give a gently caress about your  bullshit just make it work" package there's Meraki but they don't come cheap 
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Nov 1, 2017 23:31
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Boner Wad posted:I actually have been thinking of getting an EdgeRouter or USG and already have two Unifi AC Pros. Looks like the US-24's are similarly priced to the CSS326 and looks to have port mirroring. Any thoughts on those? US-24 are not fanless and only have sfp uplinks(1g not 10g). Unless you don't plan on upgrading your server/nas any time soon i would suggest to go mikrotik. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Nov 13, 2017 |
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Nov 13, 2017 08:09
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I've found a nice manual about unifi, going in depth on wireless, deep within the ubnt site https://dl.ubnt.com/guides/training/courses/UEWA_Training_Guide_v2.1_03-15-17.pdf The first part is platform agnostic, it explains about bands, channel width and so on, afterwards it switches to unifi only.
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Nov 15, 2017 13:43
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Naffer posted:I've got a pretty long ranch-style house (>100 feet from end to end) that I've already wired with Ethernet. Currently the wifi is provided by two old routers (one quite old) repurposed as WAPs on either end of the house. I'd like to upgrade them with some decent AC gear and have been thinking about the UniFi APs, but the spouse is not thrilled about ceiling mounted equipment. Are there any decent APs that are designed to sit on table tops? Most smb/pro access points are designed to be installed on ceilings(eg Unifi UAP) or on walls (eg Unifi UAP Mesh), most desktop AP are kinda low on the food chain(gamer-style giant crabs with blue leds cranked to 11). White AP are kinda invisible, they are designed to look like light fixtures exactly not to stand out. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Nov 15, 2017 |
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Nov 15, 2017 15:14
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double post
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Nov 15, 2017 15:16
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Matt Zerella posted:Btw, UniFi make wall mount units that replace your Ethernet jack and dump two on the bottom. Might be an option over the ceiling APs. Inwall have a smaller coverage area(due to the smaller size of the antenna array), they can cover a room or two, not a whole floor/house. Buyers beware.
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Nov 16, 2017 08:40
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Most recent asus routers support l2tp vpn so does the edgerouter. Check the router model at your parents house.
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Nov 20, 2017 11:18
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Ihmemies posted:One Unifi uap ac lite makes buzzing noise when downloading. They say long cables/bad cables may cause it. I guess I have to try a poe injector in the same room, try to run cable straight to the switch, try different cables.. what a problem to have. Sadly I'm seeing this a lot on AC kit, my ISP router does that when I turn on 5Ghz AC and use it. I dunno if it's capacitor or inductance whine.
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Nov 21, 2017 09:52
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Paul MaudDib posted:If I want to do adapter bonding on a board, what is the minimum buy-in from the network side? Managed switch that's aware of bonding? What's my cheapest buy-in there for 8 ports? You need to find a switch that support LACP(IEEE 802.3ad), most cheap consumer brands call port aggregation LAG. Most smart switches from tplink or Netgear will have that. If you want to go cheap there is the tplink sg108e v3(v1/v2 can only be configured via a chintzy app on Windows so avoid those) or Netgear GS108Tv2
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Nov 22, 2017 08:00
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Paul MaudDib posted:I guess I'm open to 16-port too if that's priced right. Tplink makes a killer 10g soho switch, the T1700g-28tq(http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-40_T1700G-28TQ.html), 24 1g ports and 4 10g ports, if you can scrounge some cash and want to future proof that's the one i'd suggest. Here in europe that model is always on rebate at 230-250€, dunno about us prices.
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Nov 22, 2017 09:29
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Paul MaudDib posted:That's Extremely My poo poo if you can get it down to like $200. I'm looking at the QNAP card that can do 2x NVMe and 10 GbE for my fileserver. Unless you have a QNAP nas the qm2 is actually detrimental. You have a card that talks with your computer at PCIe 2.0 4x while having a 10gbase-t card(which takes three lanes give or take) and two pcie x4 ssd or two sata600 ssd. Bandwidth is overcommitted in both cases(slightly on the sata model, heavily on the pcie model). I'd suggest a dedicated 10g nic(qlogic/broadcomm or mellanox if you want to cheap out) if you whitebox your NAS
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Nov 22, 2017 09:52
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Paul MaudDib posted:What about the QNAP NAS makes the QM2 less detrimental then? On a qnap nas the qm2 is one of the few ways to add 10g to a gig only nas while keeping the warranty, a basic qnap 10gbase-t NIC costs little less than a qm2 sata+10g so that's the main reason i'd buy one. If you don't have a qnap nas there is a campaign from aquantia that will drop prices for their 10gbase-t nics as low as 50-69$ for a new part while you can source used 10g sfp+ cards for as low as 30$(connectx2) so the QM2 price is not competitive. If you build your own nas you can easily spec the board to have at least two PCIe 8x to have a dedicated nic and a twin m2 adapter. Chances are that the NIC+m2 adapter are cheaper than the qm2 and faster to boot. Paul MaudDib posted:I fully realize the bottleneck problems and I have pointed them out to the NAS thread... but I'm hoping that these issues won't manifest with a dedicated NAS server (even with a homelab spec). This would be a dedicated ZFS NAS server with an i3-7100 spec (I already own the processor). A mellanox QDR card would burn as much power as a 10gbase-t nic and the two m2 drives combined even when running on two different slots. Unless you have a very specific reason for that uplink type i would advise againt that. A PEX adds latencies so i would use a m2 adapter only if it hasn't got any PEX chips on that(most cheap cards do not, they are only lanes adapters and a little signal boost). Are you sure you are not overspeccing? Your cpu will bottleneck before requiring more iops than a sata600 ssd cache drive set SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 10:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yeah, so, my NAS is already specified. I'm getting this board, and I can toss on up to 2 3.0x8 adapters. I've figured one will be PLX switches (i.e. QM2) that host NVMe and the other will be ethernet. There is the PCH as a wildcard but in terms of overall performance I will be watching the HDDs too. Hmm have you already bought the motherboard? There are better Supermicro cards for your scenario like a X11SSH-TF (https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/C236_C232/X11SSH-TF.cfm) which includes the 10g nic and a m2 slot on the motherboard so your wasted pcie slot power issues are mitigated or X11SSH-CTF (https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/Xeon/C236_C232/X11SSH-CTF.cfm) which have all of the above and 8x sas/sata ports for extra storage(plus 8x sata on the pch). SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 10:44
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yes. But it's a fairly linear tradeoff either way - I need 8 SATA ports, and the 10 GbE port onboard costs me ~6 PCIe lanes, more or less, so I'm back in the same situation I started in. Understood, i am perplexed by the choice of motherboard, did you buy the cpu before the mobo? For a similar project i would have picked the server atoms(c3xxx) line, the mobo+cpu combo is better value that way. a A2SDi-H-TP4F (https://www.supermicro.com/products/motherboard/atom/A2SDi-H-TP4F.cfm) costs less than your combo and it has fuckloads more power than a 7 series i3. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 10:51
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Paul MaudDib posted:
Bottlenecked by what? If everything you need and then some is already on the motherboard by the time you need to deploy the extra pcie kit you will find yourself with an old cpu/mobo(more power expenditure for equivalent performance) and the pcie expansion cards may be more expensive than a full rebuild. For instance, if you have a 10g motherboard and you don't have neither 10g clients nor switches there is no point worrying about network expansion, as by the time you have both saturated a new mobo+cpu will be quicker/cheaper to deploy. SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 11:08 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 11:03
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Paul MaudDib posted:See my edit, I'm a power-user/home-lab user but I'm mostly driven by what I can pick up cheap. If there's a big potential capability (going from a 2C4T to a 4C8T) then by all means. But I'm also all about plugging in the $40 IB QDR adapter I bought from eBay to get fast networking, and I don't mind throwing it out for 10 GbE for $100/adapter either for a handful of servers. There is a price/performance ratio limit to ghettorigging your nas/whitebox, if you go all ship-of-theseus you will end up with a subpar configuration in the long run. Yes QDR may be cheap when you have Point-to-Point but once you scale to more than two nodes the switching kit will make you hate it. If a QDR uplink is an hard requirement for you, what kind of homelab payload are we talking about? I have a several terabytes of AFA storage at work and I'm still having issues saturating our 2x10g filer uplinks(on a lacp channel). SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 11:26 on Nov 22, 2017 |
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Nov 22, 2017 11:20
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Paul MaudDib posted:Which of these tradeoffs does my decision actually force right now? As i said the issue is in the long run, not now. A ghettorig will take time picking and choosing parts from ebay, babysitting the config after the change, power usage and noise mostly. If you dont mind wasting time, power and having a wind tunnel in your basement more power to you 
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Nov 22, 2017 11:31
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Paul MaudDib posted:An i3-7100 isn't a wind-tunnel either. That's what the NH-L9i is for. Golly, my IRL 35W TDP... so hot! Any pcie card pushing enough data to require a >=8 lane channel will either have a fan on it or will require decent air pressure to cool down, that's where the wasted heat/noise in my post referred to. Ending the derail.
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Nov 22, 2017 12:00
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Paul MaudDib posted:That's fair, I haven't considered total drive temps during peak load. But I'm going to put good fans on this build - 2x 120mm. Something I should be looking at besides Noctua's? I found Revoltec to be a good compromise in noise/airflow but i don't know if there are sellers on the other side of the atlantic.
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Nov 22, 2017 12:07
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Encrypted posted:Keep us updated. I've been eyeing 10Gbps network for home use for a while but it seems there are still quite some way to go before the You can get a used mellanox connectx2 sfp+ nic at 30$, a 10g switch from mikrotik at less than 200$ and a handful of SFP+ direct attach cable for 20-30$ each. It's not free but neither incredibly expensive. 10g routers are kinda useless now for home use, you don't need to route at 10g, you need to switch at 10g. Unless you have a 10g fiber uplink in which case you can afford a cisco/juniper with ease 
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Nov 23, 2017 08:43
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bsaber posted:So while I was over, I found out that they replaced their router with an Amplifi Mesh Router. And there doesn't seem to be any VPN support that I can see from the app. Any other suggestions? https://amplifi.com/teleport/ VPN endpoint kit for amplifi.
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Nov 24, 2017 12:48
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Photex posted:Anyone try out Ubiquiti's new software UNMS? Looks like it's a wrapper for their Edge and Unifi lines, probably will be replacing the unifi controller at some point on the roadmap. It's going to take a long time to add unifi integration for UNMS(it's at the bottom of their known schedule), plus I get the feeling unms is going to talk to the unifi controller rather than replace it. UNMS main target are ISPs to provide remote client access/management(to unfuck end users modems/routers provided by the ISP) rather than SOHO/SMB like unifi. Cherry-on-top UNMS is not one-click deploy like unifi controller so I personally hope they delay the one-size-fits-all replacement as long as possible SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Nov 24, 2017 |
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Nov 24, 2017 12:53
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Steakandchips posted:The OP mentions the ubiquiti toughswitches, but not the unifi switches such as https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-8-150w/ . Is there anything wrong with the unifi switches? They get stupid hot(my us-8-60w is scorching hot at idle let alone when powering a device) and unless you decide to go all in with the platform(wireless and/or routing) you get some management overhead. The rackmount units are seriously overpriced and have poor uplinks given their prices(24 port units have only 1g sfp uplinks at the same prices of a tplink t1700g-28tq with 4 10g sfp+ cages). Their fan equipped devices(anything but the 8 port units) are very loud too. I wouldn't buy ubiquiti unifi switching kit unless i needed to power unifi passive poe kit(and they are phasing that out). I am kinda dissapointed by my us-8 but that's pretty much the unifi routing & switching lineup story
SlowBloke fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Nov 25, 2017 |
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Nov 25, 2017 18:45
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