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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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I thought I'd look to see if right angled 8 pin motherboard power cables existed, but all I found was, well, this nonsense.

Looks like someone took a soldering iron, melted the plastic on one side of a normal connector, and squashed the cables sideways. Not exactly what I had in mind. If you wanted a job that ghetto, you could do it yourself in a few minutes.

Maybe you could try asymmetrical fans - make one 120mm and the other 92mm to clear the pin. Of course, then you'll have to make up some fun way to attach the 92mm to the radiator. Noctua does sell a 92mm.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Oct 2, 2013

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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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B-Mac posted:

Just realized I never overclocked my i5 2500k. I have a Gigabyte P67A-D3-B3 mobo. I reading and is it really just as simple as changing my multiplier from 33 to 40? Looks like I can do a mild overclock on just the stock cooler. Planning on running some of that programs in the op to check for stability.

Pretty much, yeah. Changing the turbo multiplier and making it turbo on all cores. But I probably wouldn't recommend the stock cooler. That thing is anaemic as hell.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Factory Factory posted:

As signs go, that is pretty much the worst sign.

Agreed. If I had a PSU which I literally could not even identify inside my PC, the first thing I would do is go and replace it with a known quality one.

Agrajag posted:

So I should go ahead and buy a new PSU? I'm debating between 650 and 750. I'm also planning on either grabbing a second 770 come Christmas or a 780ti.

drat, you edited your post before I posted. That changes things a lot.

As the PC stands, a good 650 is more than enough. But If you want 770 SLI, your power requirements are going to rise sharply. I'd guess ~800W would be totally adequate.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Nov 15, 2013

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Peppi posted:

Quick and stupid question here.

I'm trying to breathe some new life into my i7 2600K by doing some very slight overclocking.
I've read the OP here and several guides, but being a technical moron I'm having a hard time figuring out how to do this. Several guides talk about raising the turbo multiplier in the bios settings, but the only multiplier I can find is just marked "CPU multiplier". However, changing this from x34 to x40 seems to raise the turbo frequency from 3.7ghz to 4.0ghz.

Am I fiddling with the wrong multiplier, can I overclock without touching any of the voltage and other settings, am I actually doing anything here, and how close am I to making my computer explode?

System specs if they matter:

Motherboard: Gigabyte Z77M-DEH
CPU: Intel i7 2600K
GPU: MSI 560ti Hawk
PSU: XFX 650w PRO XXX-editon 80+ bronze
CPU cooler: Aplenföhn Civetta??
Memory: GSkill Ripjaws 2x4gb 1600mhz

Overclocking these is fairly basic, there are usually two key options for a modest overclock. An option to increase the turbo multiplier, and an option to set the turbo speed to apply under 4 core load.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Peppi posted:

Thank you all for the replies.
I did some tweaking based on that guide ShaneB posted, and as far as I can tell I'm now running 4.3ghz turbo boost (holy poo poo that sounds stupid).
At the very least, I'll enjoy this placebo feeling of a slightly more powerful processor.

One more thing, can I trust the cpu temperature values given by RealTemp?

It's a decent amount faster, as 3.8GHz is the turbo boost at stock.. but that's only for one core. With all cores loaded, it will only turbo to 3.5 stock, but now it will turbo with all cores to 4.3, which is not insignificant at all, and basically instantly catches you back up with the latest CPUs.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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horchata posted:

I could've sworn that the OP used to have recommended CPU coolers, either I'm blind or I was thinking of another overclocking related topic. Anyways, what are the decent non Hyper 212 evo air coolers? The only other one I know about is the Noctua NH-D14 but otherwise I have no clue what my options are for top tier air coolers. Should I even bother with air cooling or should I go buy an H100i and call it a day? What I'm looking to achieve is silence and performance, leaning more towards the silence spectrum.

I honestly think with a good air cooler such as the NH-D14, you have potential for quieter operation than any water cooler. Lower noise floor. You can turn the fans right down on a giant tower cooler like that and barely hear a whisper. Water cooler will always have a pump running in addition to any fans, which may be quiet, but it's never going to have the same potential for silence as a giant air cooler.

Big-rear end water coolers are more of a performance item in my mind, not necessarily an item you'd fit for silence.

vv At least you have it the right way round, though, after some modding. The CPU is not the hottest item at all any more, the GPU could really benefit from some serious cooling.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Feb 5, 2014

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Factory Factory posted:

Try mounting an NH-D14 on a GPU, though.

Sounds like a challenge

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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New idea for a terrorist virus: run a commonly known stress test to kill all Haswell users

(it won't make anything explode)

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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ShaneB posted:

Is there nothing zip ties can't do?

Many years ago I pointed at them as being an example of an almost perfect invention. Cheap, simple, incredibly versatile, longer lasting than fixes like tape, and quicker and usually tighter than string. The fact you can simply attach more and more together to make any length is icing.

One of my all-time favourite items. Which is an odd thing to say about a humble nylon ratchet strap.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Ignoarints posted:

:psyduck: it is large.

I'd just... man just watercool for the sake of not having that on your motherboard lol.

Rather have an NH-D15. Dunno, too much to go wrong in a watercooler, and Noctua stuff is just sexy.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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deimos posted:

It's the late 90s again!

In a few years we'll be hitting VapoChill and Prometia in their stride once again!

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Don Lapre posted:

Just delidded my 4790k. Dropped 14c using gelid extreme between die and ihs and on ihs and heatsink.

Proof really that Intel wasn't serious about making the 4790K the best it could be.

To Intel: bring back the solder and stop loving around. Love, everyone.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Sh4 posted:

That would be a hell of a downgrade

... Uh, no. Especially not in games, where the overclocked Pentium would kick rear end.

Also, you have a useful socket, and could upgrade to something like a 4690K later and slaughter every available AMD CPU. Bonus: not having a space heater for a PC.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Aug 5, 2014

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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tempezt posted:

ok guys when I was lot younger, i came a cross something I think is was call phit (could some help me out here please) pump. it was made from n type and n type. very simply who could get zero degree cooling. a friend of mind froze his CPU chip. he said he mega over clock and it still froze with ice on it. I wonder if you can still get them and where? the problem is there are just too good at cooling.

Peltier elements are all I can think of, but they're made from p-type and n-type semiconductors. Problem is, overall you've got even more heat than before to dissipate from the hot side, so it never really worked out as being that great.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Sh4 posted:

I upgraded my FX 4350 with an FX9590 but this is still terrible

Well, yeah, that was silly..

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Factory Factory posted:

I don't disagree that paste can make a 3C difference. It's just that AS5 doesn't live up to its hype and is nothing special any more.

Last time I needed some, I had a quick look around and came up with the conclusion Noctua's NT-H1 is the stuff to buy. Also, if it's good enough for them to ship with their coolers, it's good enough for me.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 14:12 on Jan 9, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Edmond Dantes posted:

While we're discussing 2500Ks...

I have a 2500k on an Asus P8P67m-Pro mobo, and only now I decided to start fiddling a bit with OC. My motherboard has the OC set to 3700 mhz as default, so after I read the OP and a few of the guides linked there, and decided to give the "OC Tuning" option a try, which sets everything automatically.

It set the "target" to ~4300 mhz; I ran GTAV for about 10 minutes and nothing blew up, but it did get a few 82C temperature peaks at a few times. I reapplied thermal paste yesterday before embarking on this venture, so I think I'm good there, but I am using the stock cooler, which I think blows.

I dialed the target to 4017mhz using the turbo ratio, which brought the temperature peaks down to 79; I've been monitoring the voltage and it's peaking at 1.280V

So I guess my questions are: are those temps ok? Is using the OC Tuner "safe", or am I better off doing things manually?

Sorry for the haphazard explanation and the dumb questions, and thanks.

OC Tuner is a coarse way to overclock, but it will work, often it bumps the voltage a tad high. Either way, that 82°C would be much lower if you had a cooler that wasn't terrible. The Intel stock cooler is basically designed to work, and not much else. Grab a decent HSF and enjoy the incredibly cheap bump in performance, as well as lower noise.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Ahdinko posted:

Be warned on the Dark Rock cooler though, I've got some of the Corsair Vengance memory with the huge sticky up heatsinks, and the cooler is so big that I had to cut the sticky up bits off of the top of my RAM heatsinks because they were hitting it

The warning should basically be the other way around - in the build thread, people are consistently warned not to get RAM with giant heatsinks because of potential future issues.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Paul MaudDib posted:

NVIDIA actually disabled overclocking on mobile chips in their newer driver releases citing heat dissipation problems.

Then they actually went back on that decision due to the uproar.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Sh4 posted:

4.2Ghz is a really low overclock you should push it way more easily, that 970 is cpu limited and physics score on 3D Mark is really bad. I did a firestrike on my own with my lovely 4 years old CPU but because my OC is a bit better I doubled your physics score

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/8346382

Uh, you have two more cores, as well, which will probably scale in physics tests.

Also, first time I've heard Sandy Bridge-E called "lovely".

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Has anyone mentioned that there are boards that either can or will with a BIOS update, overclock locked Skylake chips via the base clock?

Well, it's loving happening. In this example, they're running a Core i3-6100 @ 4.7GHz. That's a 1GHz OC, for those playing at home.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Dec 11, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Captain Hair posted:

I didn't realise the q9550 was such a good overclocker!

It's incredible. Ran one at 3.8 for ages. It's still reasonable as a CPU today with such an OC. (I'm not using it anymore, I'm on a 2500K @ 4.6).

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Dec 31, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Shumagorath posted:

I originally used the razor spread instead of the pea method so that's probably it. I don't know if it's worth it given the PC will be replaced in two weeks max and its resale value is debatable. Are people out there still willing to buy 2600K machines with a great cooler, 290X and 16GB of RAM in a Corsair 600T? Obviously the storage is staying with me :tinfoil:

I'd think so. That's still a nice machine.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Shumagorath posted:

My worry is that most of the parts aside from the GPU are getting on five years old (particularly the PSU). At this point the most valuable part might be the case.

You'd be surprised how well recent-ish Intel CPUs have held value, check ebay.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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CharlieFoxtrot posted:

What is the real-world performance difference between 4.4 GHz and 4.3? I could not get my i5-6600k to be stable at 4.4 unless I put the voltage to 1.4v, and then the temperatures were spiking to 95-99 under load. I'm using a Cryorig m9i in a Thermaltake V1, btw.

Now I'm running at 4.3 at 1.2v and it's also much cooler (75-80 under load)

CPUs often have different sweet spots. I guess you've found your limit, so I'd definitely stick with 4.3.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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RME posted:

Asrock z170 pro4S, so def more on the budget side of things and maybe thats the culprit
in theory i could keep exactly core 2 at a lower clock because it does allow setting the multiplier for each individual core but i dont know how advisable that even is

I havent touched any LLC settings, but im kind of unclear how they work
and ive been using HWMonitor to check on temps and volts

When a cpu is put under load, the voltage drops slightly, actually by design (vdroop) to make sure when the cpu comes off load, the voltage doesn't spike too high. However, modern boards can often switch fast enough, so sometimes vdroop simply causes instability if your overclock is right on the edge of being stable. Load line calibration is a setting designed to prevent vdroop under load. It's often better for the system to bump that setting a bit instead of generally raising voltage, but as with all things, your mileage may vary.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Agrajag posted:

I suspect it's my cooler doing a poo poo job at cooling since I'm averaging 57C at idle with only Google Chrome open right now.

Oh drat, I'd expect it to be cooler than that even with the stock cooler. I wonder if it's even fitted correctly (those pins can be tricky if you've never dealt with them before). Wait until you've put a new cooler on it and then try again.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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BurritoJustice posted:

From reviews I have read that is pretty mid-range for a 7700K. Many are getting 5.0 from similar voltages.

But he's running a 6700K

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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SinineSiil posted:

I suggested my friend to overclock his i7 3770K, to turn on the automatic OC stuff his Asus mobo has. He rushed out to do that and reported back his computer didn't start, no beeps just some clicks from apparently the GPU, I guess the fans trying to spin up. I let him reset the bios by removing the battery, but it still doesn't start...
What could have gone wrong?

Edit: he says he did something (?) and it's fine now, but he swears he won't touch anything like that ever again.

Automatic OC is rarely worth doing, and often bumps the base clock speed a little which can cause other problems. Always best to just bump the turbo multiplier a little to begin with, before even thinking about voltage.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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DarkAvenger211 posted:

So I finally have decent fan for my i5 2500k. Been looking to overclock it but I have no idea where to start messing with settings.

For one I'm having issues even getting to the bios screen due to Windows 10 fast boot and I still haven't figured out a way around it.

But at the same time I've downloaded the MS I OC genie tool which seems to auto set voltages and everything to get a speed of 4.2Ghz. Everything seems stable when I have it enabled at that speed but I'm told these tools are bad or something ? Any particular reason why or could I just run with the default settings it gave me? I'd be totally cool with this speed increase if I don't have to mess with system stability at all.

Mainly because the OC tools sometimes touch the base clock or up the voltage unnecessarily. The reality is that using the OC tool to achieve a 4.2GHz overclock is actually more involved than just setting the turbo multiplier to 42, and then you know exactly what has been done. 4.2 on a 2500K, especially with an aftermarket cooler, is ridiculously unlikely to give you instability.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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That's all correct of course, I just wanted to reply about the base clock - some auto OC tools pointlessly increase the base clock (which should be 100MHz) by a few MHz for no reason at all other than to possibly introduce instability. If I recall correctly, SATA is especially affected by messing with that clock, potentially causing data corruption. Basically, that should be bang on 100MHz, while you only adjust the multiplier.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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DarkAvenger211 posted:

I noticed that the base clock seemed to fluctuate from 99.8MHz to 100MHz while using this tool. I imagine that's also not good?

That's absolutely fine, it's normal to see a very small amount of fluctuation when using the machine. Basically, that tool hasn't adjusted that particular clock, so ignore what I said about that.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Zero VGS posted:

When you turn on overclocking it usually turns off Intel Speedstep which is the thing that steps down frequencies. At least that's how it works for me, the moment I set a fixed multiplier on my ASRock motherboard, the CPU locks to that frequency.

Nah, Speedstep works fine when overclocking, but I'm suspecting that you're trying to change the base multiplier, not the turbo multiplier. Only adjust the turbo one.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Kazinsal posted:

Cool, thanks. I'll give this a shot when I get home from work.

e: Well'p, that was easy. I'll probably give it another 0.01V or so just to make sure it's where it needs to be for stability but hey, not bad.



That's the way! Sandy Bridge takes it like a champ.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Don't forget the NH-D15S, the version you want if the first slot on your board is used.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 12:11 on Mar 16, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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eames posted:

Tom's Hardware published a big new thermal paste review

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-comparison,5108.html

Nice. Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut won out of all the non-electrically conductive pastes I saw in a previous line up too, it's what I'm using because of that. Comes with a really nice applicator, as well.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Aug 5, 2017

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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As another anecdote, I used NT-H1 between the die and heatspreader of my 3770K, and it worked amazingly! For about 12 hours, and then the temps shot up.

It suffers from a pump-out effect, apparently. I replaced it with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut (the best one can get before delving into liquid metal, and I can't be bothered to risk accidentally getting that poo poo on something), and the temps have been stable for months.

In a way my story agrees with eames's - NT-H1 will spread under heat load, Kryonaut is super stable. It needs spreading, it comes with a nice spreading attachment on the syringe. I used Kryonaut both under the heatspreader and on-top, under my Noctua NH-D15S.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Alpha Mayo posted:

Would liquid metal benefit me much with a 2500K? I know my chip can do 4.8ghz but the temps climb into the upper 80s at that point, so I leave it at 4.5. Using a 212 cooler with AS5. Some games are a bit CPU bound with my 1070Ti.

The heatspreader itself is soldered. You'll need a better cooler than a 212, and also some better thermal paste.. the best non-electrically-conductive is Thermal Grizzly's Kryonaut.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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eames posted:

Yes by 1-2°C and only if you get a good batch. Going by recent (german) forum posts and amazon reviews they have QC issues that throw off temperatures because some batches have bubblegum-like consistency that just won't spread. It seems like I had a "good" and a "bad" 1g batch because the difference was very significant. I ended up using a different product.

OK, I didn't know about that. Fair enough. In that case, I'd recommend Noctua NT-H1; it's cheap, comes in giant syringes, and always performs really well.

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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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jonathan posted:

So in the few recent generations, the single core gains have been in clock speed stability rather than doing more at a given frequency. Gotcha.

Skylake/Kaby Lake/Coffee Lake have the same architecture and IPC, iirc

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