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Any good tips on making a black vinyl dashboard (including plastic bits like center console) looking "newer"? I'm tempted to try bumper & plastic restorer (for outside use), but since it's inside the car I don't want to make poo poo sticky or come off. I read that someone said WD-40 + a cloth makes the black "shine" more. I have some plastic bits that turned slightly milky after I had to use gasoline to get some very stubborn glue off after finally peeling off the horrible fake wood panel poo poo that has been irritating me for years.
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May 30, 2013 14:33
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Motronic posted:Well, I think we've found your problem. I think I might have rubbed too hard there since it was in a pretty inaccessible (and not really visible). It worked fine one the rest of the dashboard (non vinyl plastic), though, where I think I actually rubbed as hard and used much more. Oh and it wasn't the kind you use in your car (if there is a difference) but the kind that you use to remove stains and poo poo. I did however get bored and found some silicone spray that said it was good for plastic. It worked wonders on outside plastic trim. Much better than the turtle bumper trim polisher restorer stuff. But I guess the true test is how it'll look in a few days or weeks. I used it inside on the vinyl as well and it restored a lot of the blackness and made it look newer. Didn't leave any greasiness or oiliness neither. The cars is old and will be driven till it's death by me, so I might as well use it to test / learn poo poo on. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 15:27 on May 30, 2013 |
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May 30, 2013 15:25
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So my dads returned to find his new car bombarded by seagull poo poo and after he carefully cleaned it off he says that the spots where the poo poo was are now matte and visible. The poo poo was left on for a weekend. Is it just him not cleaning it enough or is it possible that the poo poo actually hosed his paint up? Any recommendations?
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Jun 11, 2013 17:32
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http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/24924-two-types-bird-dropping-etchings.html I found this. It's the first type. I hope he can get it off because it's a new car and he always wipes it off straight away.  MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jun 13, 2013 |
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Jun 13, 2013 17:24
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Jesus christ I hate seagulls. I'll be damned if I don't have to wipe poo poo off the car every time I use it. Haven't really got any alterantives for parking right now neither. Lots of lubrication + microfiber towels + straight wipe, fold and use new part of towel is ok right?
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Apr 25, 2015 15:05
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How do I deal with this? All the way to the metal, almost an inch long.
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Apr 28, 2015 19:41
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Bape Culture posted:That is shiny Jesus Christ ! Got a pic of her whole car?? Only got lovely phone pictures:   Anyway it's a 2014 V70. I'm gonna go with taking the insurance hit. Found out we have some package thing that makes the deductible pretty cheap ($120, instead of the $350 it could have been) and it's a new car. Was so pissed of yesterday I went into "Can I fix this myself" mode which was pretty silly of me.
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Apr 29, 2015 07:36
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What's the word on leather interiors on modern cars and the use of conditioning? The manufacturers say use conditioning, but the nerds say that since the leather is clear coated, conditioners can't get through and is a waste. Don't really want to waste money on something that is useless.
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May 26, 2015 12:46
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InitialDave posted:A detailing spray, such as Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer, and microfibre cloth(s). I have these + the spray wax in the car. I feel slightly sperg, but it's great to have when you need it.
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Jul 4, 2015 15:36
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Mat_Drinks posted:I don't have a good solution other than drying the car, but you could try a waterblade to make it go faster. I use one and it actually works pretty well. The problem with water blades is that if you missed a spot and there's dirt, there is no protection. Try using a damp microfiber towel. Works great. I even put a couple of squirts of hydrophobic detailer to lubricate, but I'm cleaning a black car, so can't be spergy enough.
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Aug 10, 2015 07:26
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I don't dare use a water blade on a black car. I use damp microfiber towels with squirt of detailer for extra lubrication. One pass and it dries up within a few seconds depending on the humidity. Spergy but what the hell.
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Sep 27, 2015 13:44
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When spring arrives here I'm going to clean up my dads car, clay it and all that poo poo. I'm thinking it would be nice to polish it and get it looking as good as possible for him, but I'm unsure about the machines. Some magazines and stuff say that any cheap machine that has all the right movement patterns (double oscillating) and are safe are good enough for mild polishing work. The only real difference is that the machines take longer to do the job based on how powerful they are. Is this somewhat correct? It's a black car, it drives me nuts to think about it getting scratched (and it's not even mine).... and I want a black car for myself 
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Feb 19, 2016 20:19
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Is that type repairable? All the metal surfaces that face upwards are very dull looking. From what I can see from the picture I'd say this link (and whole channel to be honest) would be pretty good to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hikW5GwRGW8 In essence: It should be able to be polishable, and since it's single stage you can actually do it by hand. I'd watch some videos to get a better understanding of the process(es) and gear needed, and then give it another go.
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Apr 23, 2016 21:18
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Looking much better now. Don't forget to finish it off with some polisher (as I suspect the Ultimate Compound is a bit rough?) to get that final shine.
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May 4, 2016 07:55
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FogHelmut posted:There's some kind of aeresolized sap (best phrase I could come up with) all over my car. It looks like I drove through a cloud of it. It wont come off with washing or waxing, but comes off with my fingernail. Should I try claybar or go right into some serious polishing? Definately clay the car. As far as I've learned from spergs on youtube, you should never polish without it being as clean as possible. I actually dared to try some polishing on our black V70. It had some ugly scuff marks on the lower back bumper so I figured I'd give it a go. I got most of it to go away, but it's hard to buy decent polishing stuff in normal shops, and I think Volvo has really hard paint. I'm going to do the whole car when I can be bothered to find proper polishing material. At least I got a DA machine now.
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May 10, 2016 22:39
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I'm surprised that UV protection didn't come with the kit.
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May 24, 2016 10:48
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Was cleaning the black car today, cloudy and nice. Even a couple of rain drops.... just as I'm about to dry the car the sun peeks and everything gets hot as gently caress in 3 seconds. Thanks.
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Jun 6, 2016 |
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May 28, 2016 20:33
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I really sperged out and spent 10 hours in total learning / doing poo poo on the black car. Foam guns are really nice. Then clayed, compounded (only had scratch X 2.0 though) and surprisingly made some nasty marks some rear end in a top hat put into the paint almost go away. So did the whole car except for the roof and the lower front. I probably need better compounds and polishes to get it perfect. Then Autoglym paint seal to finish. Seems to give a nice finish. Then I decided to clean the wheel housing, blacken the plastic and give the rims a once over. But the rims are so much work to get perfect that I'll probably do it when it's time to swap to the winter set. They look great anyway, I'm just OCD:ing. At least the car is finally at a "maintainable" state where I know the paint is good enough, it's sealed and much more easy to clean. At least the next time I got most tools and decent knowledge to do this right from the start so I don't have to find time and chase the detailing. Edit: And yeah, Meguiar's quick detailer is really nice to have.
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Jun 20, 2016 21:17
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meatpimp posted:Their detailer is alright, but I don't see a difference between that and any other detailer. The Ultimate Quik Wax, though? Oops I meant the Quik Wax. I use the Quik Detailer when drying the car, which it's pretty good for. The quick wax is indeed amazing. I should use it more.
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Jun 20, 2016 22:48
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I use Autoglym Leather Cleaner. Has always been very effective at removing crud.
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Aug 10, 2016 07:54
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Javid posted:So a mixture of sanded paint and freshly sprayed primer is workable? I was pretty well resigned to hand sanding inside of body lines and such so that's fine. This guy seems to know his poo poo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGEmPMBV3ng
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Sep 3, 2016 13:43
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Javid posted:That video deals largely with putting filler in a dent which is not a factor here. The closest he came to actually addressing my questions was mentioning using 1500 on the entire panel after he got done with 120-320-600 on the dent/filler/primered spot. Oops, meant to link to his channel and not a specific video.
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Sep 4, 2016 12:38
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InitialDave posted:Are they actually mismatched, or just "meh, that'll do" blobs? I second this. It does look like it's actually a match, just reflecting weird because of the lazy fix.
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Dec 14, 2016 21:22
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How deep? It's a bit over simplified, but as a general rule - if it catches your finger nail, it's probbly too deep to buff out. First step should be to clean and asses the damage. Then maybe try buffing out the more shallow stuff and see what you are left with. In general machines are better and safer to use, but if you are doing this in a parking lot that won't really be an option. You could try to handbuff using something like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound.
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Dec 29, 2016 08:33
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Gamesguy posted:The scratch below the emblem looks deep enough to have gone into the base coat. The chip on the hood seems to have mostly penetrated the top clear coat, with only the center portion damaging the actual paint. In terms of depth the hood chip is actually deeper, but the clear coat/paint there seems especially thick compared to the rest of the car. In that case, I'd go with the videos in the post above me. Larry's the man.
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Dec 30, 2016 14:34
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Mr. Apollo posted:I was looking at getting an Audi with red leather seats but I was at the autoshow on Friday and noticed that the cars with red seats had a ton of blue staining on them from jeans. Is there an effective way to prevent this (other than not wearing jeans) or at least an easy way to clean it off? I used AutoGlym leather cleaner to clean jeans stains off cream white Volvo leather seats. Works great and usually wipes off straight away. There is stuff like GTechniq L1 leather guard, but I have no experience with those products. I might give them a go when it's time to detail that car again.
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Feb 21, 2017 18:45
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Popete posted:Can anyone tell me about waterless wash products, are they any good? I'm looking at Meguiar's Ultimate Waterless Wash spray that is wiped away with microfiber towels. I live in the city and am renting a garage with no water access. If I can get away with using a waterless wash inbetween taking it to a detailer that would be awesome. I'm worried if it'll damage or scratch the paint or sealant though. Obviously it could only be used if there is no heavy dirt buildup on the car. Yes, they are good. After spending way too much time reading reviews and tests I found that they are safe. The only "bad" thing about the UWW spray is that it's pretty expensive to use. I'd look into the gallon sized D115 from Meguiar's. Since I like to choose what wax I put on, opted for the now out of production D114 because it doesn't leave any wax. Here's some dude testing (and going above and beyond doing so) D115, UWW and some other products. On a dirty black car.
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Mar 11, 2017 18:58
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I was just out (the neighbors must think I'm crazy) removing bird poo poo using Meguiar's D114. Really amazing product. 128:1 dilution, sprayed it on and the bird poo poo just lifted off like nothing.
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Apr 1, 2017 10:04
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1. Have you tried some automotive water spot removers? 2. Not really. You might be able to do it yourself if there are pre-cut kits for your car.
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May 1, 2017 15:31
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If you want it 100% decontaminated you'll need to both Iron-X and claying.
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May 20, 2017 14:28
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savesthedayrocks posted:Recently got my first DA (Griot's 6 in) and did my first attempt at paint correction. I can tell this is going to be a long journey before I'm comfortable with the process. One thing you should do is put a line on the backing plate so that you can see when it's stopped (too much pressure). You should also look up if there is any info regarding the hardness of you paint, since hard paint can take ages to correct if you aren't using aggressive enough product / pad.
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May 21, 2017 09:17
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I have a bottle of CQuartz UK waiting to be applied to my dads and my own car. Haven't had time to do it all spring, and of course some idiot backs into him just as I get time to do it. Rear bumper and tail light are shot. Hopefully they won't have to do much blending (solid black colour) and just replace the bumper and light. Irritating. Nice coating jobs btw. Looks great.
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Jul 8, 2017 07:30
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Spent a full weekend battling rain, wind and bad work conditions to do a full 2 stage polish + putting on Cquartz UK of my dads black V70. Good news is that it now look great, and dirt doesn't stick as easily. Bad news? Never again am I doing this under these circumstances (i.e not having a garage). Oh and I forgot to take pictures.
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Aug 6, 2017 12:35
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Yeah. Supposed to last 2 years, and already makes a difference. It's nice seeing water just bead up and fly off as you get up to speed. I got some "Reload" with it that's supposed to work as a form of top up to be used once in a while. There's a wash shampoo thing that's called "Reset" as well, that's the preferred wash medium, but won't be bothering with that. All in all it was simple to apply, but the circumstances of polishing outside, having intermittent rain storms all the loving time and having to rush getting things inside just killed me. Been planning to do this for 6 months, so felt I had to do it after having bought all the poo poo. But sometime the only timing possible is bad timing so yeah. Dads very pleased. Actually called me just to say that the car looked great in the sun when he walked up to it on the parking lot today so I guess it's worth it just for that.  Edit: Fixed some stone chips using "Chipex" as well. UK company. Worked pretty well, and the chips are now hard to spot.
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Aug 6, 2017 18:38
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... unless you get it into direct sunlight / street lights.
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Nov 9, 2017 15:57
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Here4DaGangBang posted:What are the synthetic clays like, physically? Do they work in just the same way? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=197_Hu3c22I Here's a video "review" of one. I'll certainly be getting one of these when (who am I kidding, before) my normal clay runs out.
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Nov 10, 2017 07:47
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Pretty much all new cars come "ruined" from the factory. Just look at all the "new car prep" videos on YouTube. I installed CQuartz UK on my dads black Volvo this summer and it's a pretty big undertaking, especially as I had to do it outside. Now this car was actually quite spared from insane swirls, but like all coatings you need to thoroughly clean the car, clay it, polish the car to the standard you want it at, panel prep it so that there is as little as possible contamination (oils etc) on the paint. Then you apply the coating per the instructions. Often you have to keep the car dry for 24 hours to avoid water spots. CQuartz UK comes with a hydrophobic top coat that can be applied after an hour, which protects the coating so I didn't have to leave the car inside. You can't apply a filler and then apply crystal serum light. The coating needs to bond to the paint, and if there are other products in the way it'll be like repainting a window frame without scraping away the flakes of old paint. Of course you could just apply the CSL to the car with swirls and still get the easy to clean, hydrophobic properties. But the swirls will be there to be seen, and you kinda need to polish the CSL off if you want it removed.
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Jan 15, 2018 08:43
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InitialDave posted:If you can get it straight out the factory, without a dealer touching it, it's probably a lot better. Yeah, the vast majority of the swirls are from dealers. But if you want a "perfect" car you'll need a proper detail even if you get it directly from the factory. Even high end cars have swirls, sanding marks and/or buffing trails. To be honest, most people don't notice the insane swirls of a brush washed car that is years old, so I get why it's not a priority. But an easy way to minimize damage is to tell dealers to not touch your car when you leave it for service. Especially after having had coatings put on it as it's usually a pretty expensive affair.
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Jan 15, 2018 10:14
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Hackjack posted:Is there a guide you folks would recommend for someone who knows practically nothing how to accomplish the most basic car washing possible (paint, wheels, and glass)? Detailing stuff like waxing and clay is definitely out of my reach for now. Larry @ Ammo NYC recently made a whole training series just for that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awLX5qlY-Ts Larry's videos is what got me hooked on detailing. He really knows his poo poo, but is also humble enough to bow to the other masters.
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Jan 17, 2018 09:17
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Hackjack posted:Thanks for the recommendation! Watched the whole hour and found it super informative. Though I haven't tried his products but Larry's stuff is considered to be great, though at "boutique" prices. Anything from Megiuars will be very good as well. I recently discovered a brand called Bilt Hamber, and boy do they make awesome poo poo that they sell for cheap. Don't know if they're available in the US though. The Autodetailing subreddit has a wiki with product recommendations for beginners and different price ranges: https://www.reddit.com/r/autodetailing/wiki/recommended Depending on how much you get sucked into the detailing sphere you'll probably try different products over time and find stuff that you really like. If you do, try to find the bulk version of it as you'll save loads of money by diluting the products yourself. VVVV: Bilt Hamber seem to win most tests people do on YouTube. I've bought their metal fallout remover (Karosol) and the one for rims, Surfex HD (APC / degreaser) and Autofoam in big 5 liter jugs, their claybar is amazing as well. Haven't had a chance to use the Autofoam yet. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 23:24 on Jan 19, 2018 |
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Jan 19, 2018 15:49
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