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Yeah, for stuff that doesn't move in a rock-solid studio, multishot backs are amazing. They used to have a nice side-by-side comparison for one of their older backs that compared a single-shot and multishot image directly. Those links are still impressive, but it's even more impressive when you can see all the missing detail the Bayer array's eating up.
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Jun 21, 2012 02:36
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If you buy one at least you'll probably shoot with it. One of my horrible friends bought one to shoot and then used it as a shelf decoration because it was "too expensive to use." 
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Jul 16, 2012 17:37
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Ashex posted:Where can I get a color card like this one? The ColorChecker Passport's the only one worth buying if you care about accuracy. If you just want to look like you know what you're doing, there are a couple companies selling ridiculous inkjet-printed targets that are totally worthless otherwise.
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Jul 17, 2012 17:50
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Ashex posted:Thanks guys, I'll look into the colorchecker passport. How long should I expect it to last me? I ask as I use grey cards for exposure and tend to need to replace them every year or so. It's built into a hard clamshell. When it's closed up everything's pretty secure from abrasion and the outside world. As long as nobody's scraping the paint off the targets when it's open, it'll serve you for a long while. X-Rite recommends replacing it every two years to avoid fading from light exposure, but I'd be surprised if you you had significant enough fade under normal usage to need it that often.
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Jul 18, 2012 00:13
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somnambulist posted:I was thinking of buying something at home depot, but I'm having trouble finding something. Any recommendations? Suggestions? "High velocity" are the words to look for. If it needs to last, grab a Vornado. If it needs to be cheap, any piece of poo poo Chinese high velocity fan will do (at least until it either quits working or kills you and the model with a rain of shrapnel). If you've got a thousand bucks burning a hole in your pocket, a proper wind machine is rife with improvements you may or may not care about.
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Sep 9, 2012 02:29
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Many of the cheaper triggers use lovely frequencies because the chips are cheaper. RadioPoppers, for example, are great little triggers until they don't work because they're on the 900MHz ISM band with half the rest of the wireless-everything universe. (And they're now ridiculously overpriced—they were designed to be a cheaper PocketWizard competitor, but their current price is $40 more than a more featureful, more reliable, less ugly/flimsy PocketWizard Plus III.) And then you have the nutbars at Phottix, who are now shipping, against all sanity, a 2.4GHz trigger. Then there are the 433MHz triggers like your Cowboy Studio triggers, which will generally work fine because they're terribly illegal in the US and transmitting on a restricted frequency.
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Nov 30, 2012 17:20
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Paragon8 posted:Ringflashes just have a huge gap between the dabbling and the serious business stuff. The Orbis ain't bad, honestly. It's not a proper ring head on a decent pack but it's pretty well designed and gets reasonable results even before you figure the cost into things. It does eat up a bunch of light and it's awkward as hell to use. I'd put it head and shoulders above the $400 ABR800, which has such a hosed overall design that its light has a really grotesque character and often looks nothing like a ringlight should. But yeah, there's not much middle ground between plastic hotshoe contraptions and ~$3K for the cheapest head+pack combination. 
Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Dec 1, 2012 |
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Dec 1, 2012 00:17
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What are you using? Optical slaves (on good equipment, anyway) are much more sensitive and less picky than system flashes using pulse triggering. If you've got a hotshoe flash with a PC socket, you can pop a Wein Peanut or something similar in there to get optical slaving.
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Dec 11, 2012 22:09
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milk thug posted:Yeah, that's the only thing that put me off. An allegedly decent third party adapter is going to cost nearly a hundred dollars if I bought one in-store locally, for example, and I've seen the genuine ones going for absolutely bonkers prices. Did Canon not produce many or something? Canon didn't produce many. An adapter also has to have optics if you want infinity focus, and Canon's was a decent four-element design since it was sold specifically to pros who wanted to keep using their FD L glass on EOS bodies. The really cheap modern adapters have no glass (and no infinity focus), and the prices go up from there with the quality of the build and optics.
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Dec 26, 2012 16:16
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Splinter posted:I left batteries in my SB-600 for an extended period of time and when I pulled it out the other day the batteries had exploded and the flash no longer works even with fresh batteries. Anyone have any ideas on how to clean the battery corrosion from the flash in hopes of reviving it? If you still have the batteries, and they're Duracell, Energizer, or Rayovac, you box the whole mess up and ship it to the battery manufacturer. They'll either fix it or replace it.
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Sep 28, 2013 02:50
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GobiasIndustries posted:Everyone here seems to have a very favorable opinion of 'BGN' grade lenses from KEH, but has anyone purchased a body from them at BGN grade quality? They have an EOS 3 with the power booster in BGN condition for a really good price, but I'm hesitant to pull the trigger on it. BGN should be perfectly fine. By their own rating scale for bodies, that's (at worst) standard usage wear. For a point of comparison, I've bought multiple UG medium format bodies from KEH. The ugliest of them all had a couple places where the black enamel was chipped off, and the cement on the finder leather was failing. In other words, it looked like a used camera. Lenses are another matter (UG really is UG), but I wouldn't think twice about buying any grade of body if the price is right.
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Jan 17, 2014 20:22
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rio posted:Not specifically camera gear, but any recommendations on a screen calibrator? I need to stop trying to do my best eyeing out calibration and would like to buy one but there are a lot of options. Pick an X-Rite product, any X-Rite product. Can't go wrong with the ColorMunki Display.
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Mar 11, 2014 22:07
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red19fire posted:Does anyone know of a grip to use on a Profoto ringflash bracket? The camera it's attached to? If you're trying to use it without a camera, the screw on a standard 5/8" spigot is 1/4"-20.
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May 19, 2015 01:03
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:I bought a couple Paul c buff white lightnings from the BorrowLenses sale, aside from them being 100% manual are there any quirks I need to worry about? Recycle times are slow, the power sliders are super hinky, and the fans like to fail (in which case the overheat failure mode is the unit acting increasingly weird and eventually shutting off). But they're built like tanks, the hinky sliders can be worked around unless you're a highly technical shooter, and even a fully failed fan is rarely an issue if you're shooting indoors and not blasting the modeling light. Depending on their age, they shipped for a while with uncoated flashtubes. If you're primarily shooting people or are particularly attached to your modifiers, you may want to verify whether you have a coated (UV filtering) or uncoated (UV blasting) tube. Also those metal casings will get hot as gently caress if you're shooting outdoors or near a window. Pack gloves.
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Jun 22, 2019 01:45
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