|
huhu posted:You could look into dummy batteries to USB and then plug that into your powerbank. Careful with voltage though, you can definitely fry a camera with that.
|
#
¿
May 23, 2023 23:13
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 18:24 |
|
|
Add me to the club of the longer I shoot landscapes, the longer l shoot landscapes. You can always do a pano stitch if you want a wider angle than your prime will allow too, which will be fine as long as you're not too close as to cause a lot of distortion.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2023 02:41
|
|
|
xzzy posted:Unfortunately stitching panos makes me anxious, if I can't see the whole composition on the back of the camera it feels like a prayer. Viewfinder apps help a ton with this. The good ones let you choose custom sensor sizes and adjust focal lengths accordingly, so you can really see what you have in mind before you shoot. They also help you make mental notes of where your boundaries should be for the frames. I still end up shooting them multiple times slightly differently to get around stitching issues though.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2023 05:12
|
|
|
There are a few different kinds that can do that kind of thing. Haven't played with any yet but I assume they would work pretty well https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Pa...UxoCB0QQAvD_BwE
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2023 23:28
|
|
|
The Nikon 20 1.8 was my favorite lens for wide Astro landscapes if you can find a deal on one or can afford the z version.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2023 22:26
|
|
|
Yeah go with Neewer, avoid Wasabi.
Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Aug 3, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Aug 3, 2023 03:58
|
|
|
What are they filming with? Assuming a camera with no built-in stabilization, putting anything on the camera and creating more contact points with your body and moving slowly and deliberately is going to do a lot. You can do this pretty well with just a camera strap around your neck and both hands holding the camera out to tighten the strap. You can add a tripod with two of the legs angled back against your hips for more stability. From there, they can look up YouTubes about how to do the "ninja walk" where you bend your knees and roll your feet to make the motion smoother. Any of the brackets or grips they make with universal tripod screws can be good too (link below). Basically anything that adds weight and contact points will go a long way to get rid of hand shake. I still shoot body only when I am traveling and don't have a full rig setup and can get 90% there. Stay away from any type of gimbal, powered or not. They will teach them bad habits and create terrible footage that looks worse than handheld with shake. https://www.amazon.com/Stabilizer-S...ps%2C195&sr=8-4 I would advise them to stick to static shots first though, as it will be much easier to compose and shoot a scene without camera movements added in. Adding in restrictions like that can help jump start creativity a ton and with something as complicated as filmmaking, keeping the process as simple as possible will go a long way. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Aug 29, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Aug 29, 2023 19:27
|
|
|
Oh yeah, with that camera/lens/grip and a camera strap they should be able to get really smooth movement.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 30, 2023 01:02
|
|
|
the_lion posted:So I'm looking for a portable tripod for video shooting. What I want is to be able to smoothly pan. https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Fre...d0-5ec63b24bcb5 This is a super solid one that performs at least 2-3x its price point.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2023 22:58
|
|
|
modern flash systems can sync up to 1/4000 and even 1/8000, which for portrait work is great to keep aperture wide and shutter speed high to account for sunlight and still get fill flash. Otherwise most cap out at 1/200 meaning you'll have to drop your aperture significantly.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2023 21:41
|
|
|
Enerloops are some dark magic. Pretty sure I have a set that's going on a decade now.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 21, 2023 05:06
|
|
|
Yeah, everything has a tradeoff with flash. Portrait work is the only practical use I have for HSS, but it is an important feature for a lot of folks for other reasons. Just wanted to bring it up while we were giving a flash primer.  These were done with a relatively weak strobe and HSS. I had to push the exposure but it worked well to balance the ambient and keep the aperture where I wanted.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 22, 2023 19:59
|
|
|
What camera was that? An R50 and a prime lens (28 pancake and 50 1.8) or two would come in around 1000 and be a great setup.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 9, 2023 22:39
|
|
|
APSC specific lenses are still affected by the 1.5/1.6 factors, they’re just able to be wider/lighter/smaller because their image circle coverage is much smaller. Crop sensors don’t zoom the focal length, they just crop in on the native focal length which is exactly how crop mode works on full frame sensors. You multiple the focal length to get comparable numbers for full vs crop, but it’s not actually zooming in on the focal reach. And Canon RF bodies all use the same RF mount as well, crop or full frame. There are only a few crop specific lenses for RF (called RF-S) and none are really great (slow zooms). Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Oct 15, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2023 00:56
|
|
|
You have to choose 2 of the 3 with tripods: light stable cheap If you can stomach it, the Ulanzi Zero Y is a rock solid carbon tripod in the $350 range that will last a long time and is extremely light and compact for a fullsize tripod. That would be my choice for a hiking friendly tripod (that also works for any other uses). \/ yeah, a cheap EF adapter gives you access to way more lenses than E mount offers, and the native RF glass is the best I've ever used. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Oct 15, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2023 03:26
|
|
|
They’re referring to third party RF mount lenses. Canon has the mount locked down and no third parties can make auto focus lenses in RF yet.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2023 14:00
|
|
|
That's good news, hadn't heard any updates but I don't follow much gear stuff. I just want the 35L to drop already.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2023 04:22
|
|
|
35 + 85 is the most popular prime combo in the wedding world for two cameras and zero lens swapping for a full day. It’s my setup most of the time as well, and I rarely feel like I need wider or longer.. I don’t know how folks two body with the 24-70 and 70-200 on their shoulders all day. I usually only pull out the 16 for dance floor stuff and the 70-200 for the ceremony and in both cases I out the other body down so I can move easier. I have a friend that shoots 95% of his wedding work on a 50 with one body and I envy that dedication and simplicity.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2023 08:39
|
|
|
Beve Stuscemi posted:Am I misunderstanding mirrorless cameras or do they not have a shutter? I know some like the fujis have a mechanical leaf shutter, but I thought most didn’t? Even if there’s no mechanical movement sensor time is a thing. That’s why cine cams measure shooting hours as a gauge. That said, plenty of twitch streamers use mirrorless cams as high end web cams and run them for thousands of hours. Mirrorless should last a good bit longer than DSLRS could hope to on average. Ihmemies posted:. As a general lens I’d recommend 35mm if you can’t decide what to take, or don’t know what to buy, but must choose only one. Yup, 35mm is my do it all and favorite focal length. I would pick it as my only lens if I had to with no hesitation.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2023 15:29
|
|
|
Yeah, some mirrorless cameras have faster sensor readout times that are important for video to stop the rolling shutter effect. For sports and birding, shooting full electronic is also a trade off because of that effect that can show up. IIRC on Canon R line you only get 12 bit color in full electronic as well.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2023 20:00
|
|
|
ishikabibble posted:I think the Canon R cameras read out native 14 bit in mechanical, but get reduced to 12 bit in electronic shutter yeah, at least the r5 and 6 do. In practice its not a big deal unless you need to push shadows a lot. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Oct 22, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2023 22:22
|
|
|
echinopsis posted:
No, it's the opposite. At 10 bit and above, log will get you more color data and dynamic range. Think of it as raw for video (RAW video being a different thing entirely). 10 bit 4:2:2 log is the minimum standard for most production now. If your camera can't do 10 bit, then Rec709 is probably the better option. It also matters what codec you're shooting, as RAW vs Prores vs h.264 etc are going to affect all of this. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Oct 22, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2023 23:31
|
|
|
echinopsis posted:
Bottom Liner posted:At 10 bit and above, log will get you more color data and dynamic range
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2023 00:39
|
|
|
Does anyone have a recommendation for a waist pack for lens swapping? I think I'm looking for a belt system that will keep easy access around my front as I have a 2 strap harness setup for my cameras on my sides so I need my sides free and a back/sling strap won't work. I'm not opposed to a sling in front if the angle isn't too bad for swapping a 70-200 2.8 in and out. Also needs to be able to hold a 24-70 2.8 and a prime.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2023 19:36
|
|
|
Ricoh GR with the wider lens is the best for your needs I think. Best image quality in that small pocketable form factor. Get a generation or two older and save a good bit of money.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2023 23:09
|
|
|
Beve Stuscemi posted:Well, if you don’t want to shoot manual all the time (I.e. you need to choose iso, aperture and shutter speed each time you take a shot), it’s important. If you just want to be able to press a button and get a properly exposed picture, you need some sort of auto mode, or at least something like aperture priority There are zero production digital cameras that are full manual what is this post
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2023 01:49
|
|
|
Beve Stuscemi posted:Someone said that the camera doesn’t have auto mode and my post is a response to OP’s question about if that’s important. Yeah but it was more misleading info to OP because no cameras are manual only. It is literally confusing info to them. OP buy the Ricoh unless you really want zoom capabilities. It’s great.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2023 02:28
|
|
|
echinopsis posted:i’m considering a 35mm lens which is a huge deal for me Just get the Rf 35 1.8. It has IS and outperforms the rest easily.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2023 19:43
|
|
|
echinopsis posted:outperforms how? sharpness? you know how much I hate sharpness lol goddamn you're the fuckin worst
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2023 00:33
|
|
|
Most modern cameras can give you a DoP preview button or engage it when you focus. The rule of thumb though is that wider angles give larger focal range so 2.8 at 24mm is going to be fine for groups, but probably too shallow at 200mm. In general, f/4 is a safe go to for anything when you're worried about being too shallow.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 7, 2023 18:38
|
|
|
Godox V1 no hesitation. The accessory kit there is a good value with all the attachments you could need. I don't know what you mean by ditching the trigger, I don't think any cameras can control off camera flash without one, especially not third party units.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 00:54
|
|
|
Definitely don't need 2. You simply learn to expose for ambient correctly then add flash as fill on your subject. That can be hard if the ambient light is bad or multi-colored from various sources, but you can still make it work instead of drowning the scene with fill. You definitely don't need more than one light for backdrop classic portraits: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUrbix0c0_k Speaking of, do we have a flash thread? We should do our own Strobist.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 01:09
|
|
|
litany of gulps posted:He ends up with a completely blacked out background from dropping his ISO way low and uses an elaborate set of bulky man sized reflectors on both sides of the subjects. It seems a little reductive to say that you simply expose for ambient correctly. You expose for ambient if you're shooting an environmental portrait and don't want it to just be dramatic flash, same as if you're shooting outside. He blacked out the backdrop because that's the kind of portrait he was doing there. Two different things. That video was to show the ways you can use a single flash for studio portraits, not environmental. Properly lighting a scene with multiple lights is significantly harder than a single light source, and not just because of exposure. Shaping the light naturally is really hard, which is why it's an entire huge part of movie production.  This is an old (and very compressed) example of single strobe + exposing for ambient. It's a little more dramatic than I would light it now, but I could have easily halfed the flash power and lowered my shutter speed to even it out, among other things I could have done better, but you get the idea.  Here's another raw shot with very even lighting using one strobe + ambient.  and a single light studio shot. You definitely do not need multiple strobes to do indoor flash portraits and especially for a beginner I think that recommendation would harm more than help Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Nov 29, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 02:13
|
|
|
blue squares posted:Maybe I’m thinking about solving my problem in the wrong way. It sounds like it might be unrealistic to expect that I can just throw on a flash on my hot shoe with TTL and expect to effortlessly get great exposures. I read a little about the feature and it seemed like it would be something I could run and gun with all of this: yes. That's exaclty what TTL is meant for and largely achieves quote:and easily get shots that don’t actually look like they have a flash in them This part less so, especially not on the hotshoe. You can bounce it to light the scene better but it's almost always going to look like you used flash because of the effect of on-axis lighting making the image flat. You have to use a lot of very precise lighting modifiers to create natural light, which obviously goes against the run and gun idea.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 02:33
|
|
|
litany of gulps posted:I'm sure that's a fair and valid statement. Again, I'm no expert. I usually only use my flashes for assembly line graduation portraits or weird poo poo like dances in terrible lighting conditions. But think about the original question from that other poster. He's got one flash and his indoor casual photos are coming out with the faces overexposed. Is a flash that does ETTL going to solve his problems? Is "simply get good" sound advice? Your examples are pretty clearly staged and carefully composed, so what actual advice would you offer for someone with a single flash trying to get good candid photos on the fly indoors? I'm genuinely curious myself. blue squares posted:
Unless I'm confused, OP asked for which flash to buy and mentioned a variety of shooting scenarios. They never said anything about overexposure? I recommended the godox v1 kit, and then gave practical advice on metering for the scene and filling with flash. The examples I provided were to answer your point that indoor portraits needed multiple lights. I don't know where "simply get good" came into this from my posts or Megabound's, no one said anything like that. litany of gulps posted:
The power will depend entirely on the strength of the flash unit. If I'm trying to run-and-gun with a flash in the hotshoe, I turn it angled high up to the left or right and bounce it off the ceiling/wall and shoot in manual for consistent exposures. Some of them yes, putting it at 1/64th will be enough fill to get good exposure inside even at like 800 ISO. The one I use for weddings I usually run at 1/8th, 1/100th, 800, f 2.8.  It's never going to be as good as off camera strobes, but it's more than serviceable for quick candid shots like that. quote:I've watched a bunch of portrait photography videos and half the time the advice for one light portraits is to stick it on a 9 foot pole directly behind you with the umbrella angled down at the subject. I mean, OK. Yes? If you want good one light portraits that is a simple go to setup (well not directly behind you, that'd be pretty flat, more like 30-45 degrees off camera axis). Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Nov 29, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 02:53
|
|
|
Yeah I took that as "how do I make the light better using a flash" not "my flash is way too strong and blasting faces".
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 03:02
|
|
|
"faces with shadows due to overhead indoor lighting in houses" is not "bright flash faces" Flash blasting face would have no shadows. Bounced flash straight up would, but I would not call that "overhead indoor lighting". OP never said bright flash faces and never said overexposed faces, I'm not sure where you're getting any of this from. 
Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Nov 29, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2023 03:07
|
|
|
You should join us in the music photography thread. We have everything from punk shows to K-pop tours, but not much rave and DJ type stuff https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3092090&goto=lastpost
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2023 01:51
|
|
|
The Nikon ZF is a real gem, and not just because of the aesthetics. The autofocus and dynamic range is probably the best on any camera under 5K right now. At 2k it's ridiculous.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2023 22:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 18:24 |
|
|
Incredulous Dylan posted:Having a constant buffer of pre-captured shots and just scrolling through to choose the perfect moment is pretty incredible. We're not too far from just doing that with 16k video. That's exactly what the pre-buffer is doing, albeit only for 1 second before you press the shutter. Global isn't all positive though, it generally has lower dynamic range and worse noise, but I imagine Sony wouldn't put it on their flagship body if they hadn't accounted for that and made improvements. HSS and not needing ND filters for 1.2 shooting is a nice boon for photos though, for sure. Global shutter is a much bigger deal for video though, and if Sony bring that to the next gen of the FX line it'll be a game changer. Bottom Liner fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Dec 2, 2023 |
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2023 00:33
|
|