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The OP is eleven years old, so forgive me if I’m in the wrong place. But I need a sanity check. I’ve always used Crutchfield and installed poo poo myself. I’m looking at the rear side panels for a 2013 Spark, which are listed as 6x4s. But the factory speakers are apparently a weird size, so YouTube installs say you have to leave one or two screws out. Crutchfield insists they will not fit, and I have to do a fabricated bracket for a 4x4 for the side panels. Which means if I ordered 6x4s from them, they don’t throw in the install goodies. Who is right? Crutchfield, or everywhere else?
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Mar 10, 2023 18:26
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Nocheez posted:Crutchfield is usually correct. They really seem to know their poo poo, and if you can find a car-specific article it usually explains what/why fits. Here's the one I used for my Camry, and it was spot-on: I'm just confused by seeing videos of people having zero trouble making a 6x4 fit, as opposed to fabricating a bracket from scratch for a 4x4. I spoke to a person over chat who told me that was the only option. I've got bad legs, so anything much past a quick plug-in/screw in job I'll end up paying someone to do. The location of those back speakers is pretty loving awkward if you've got mobility issues.
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Mar 10, 2023 19:20
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Lowclock posted:It's just because 4x6 is a weird size with a bunch of different potential screw layouts and frame sizes, and they don't want to bother keeping track. I'm sure you can find one that will work, but if one doesn't fit then they all don't fit as far as crutchfield is concerned.  Got'cha. I think I can make 6x4s work without much issue. I just didn't want to order something blatantly wrong.
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Mar 10, 2023 20:34
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LloydDobler posted:In the past I've noticed Crutchfield being un-necessarily strict about what "fits" because anything that isn't bolt in bolt out doesn't count as fitting. All Volvos made since like 1995 use standard size speaker holes but they mount on factory brackets which the factory speakers are glued to. Remove the glued speaker and any standard 6.5 will replace it. But they say "modified fit" or "does not fit" when you search stuff. I went to an audio shop and got an asinine quote for a small profile sub and four speakers. (ONLY $1179!!) But my main reason for going was finding out they install 6x4s in the spot in question. Which means I'll install the fresh speakers myself, and end up paying someone to do a sub. Running wire with my legs would be hell.
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Mar 10, 2023 23:54
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Lowclock posted:://www.tarampstore.com/amplifier-taramps-hv-160000-1-channel-160000-watts-rms/p]one of these bad boys[/url] and really take advantage of the Spark's high voltage battery. Sweet Jesus Christ, I don’t want to blow out my windows. StormDrain posted:I reccomend you run wire using your arms.  Needing leg braces to get around make crawling around a car loving hard.
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Mar 11, 2023 18:27
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Lowclock posted:Well duh, that's why you roll yours down and blow out everyone else's.  After doing plenty of reading and watching videos, I’m sure as hell not putting in my own sub. But I’ve not used an installer since…ever? Is it most economical to buy the sub from the place that installs it? Or should I buy from Crutchfield and then get an installer? What’s considered reasonable to charge? Most car audio places look shady as gently caress, or are god drat Best Buy.
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Mar 12, 2023 16:59
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Lowclock posted:Places seem to charge pretty normalized prices for gear since they know everyone can just order it all off Amazon now. The places I worked at didn't really care or charge extra if you brought your own stuff, we just wouldn't warranty anything that you didn't buy from us. Installers are hit or miss everywhere since nobody wants to pay them what they're worth, but at least with a big box place like Best Buy you have a huge corporation to bitch at and fix stuff instead of one or two shady guys who might just tell you to gently caress off. Thanks for giving me some context for pricing, it really helps. For some reason, two different stores have quoted me in the $1k neighborhood for installing a $400ish sub. I don't exactly understand how they're coming to that price, even having it explained to my face. There is a really highly regarded installer in Portland who doesn't sell the equipment, and I'll contact them next. Here is where I'm at on the Spark - - Head Unit - Ten year old Pioneer AVIC6000NEX. This was top of the line a decade ago. It has a built in GPS, back-up camera, and other bells and whistles. But, it's buggy as hell. It requires an app to sync my phone which doesn't work. The steering wheel controls only work about 50% of the time. They stopped updating it with the iPhone 6. But the Bluetooth connection for piping in music works. - Factory Speakers - two 4x4s and two 6x4s that sound like poo poo. I've already ordered mid-range kicker replacements. I ordered the kickers because they had a shitload of "screw-hole" options. Apparently the Spark uses oddballl sized factory speakers and the extra screw positions are needed if I don't want to fabricate I've had it explained to me that most head units these days just use your phone for the GPS, so I shouldn't worry about having one built into it. I'm going to see how I like the new speakers first. But I cannot decide if I'm going to do the head unit, or the sub, first.
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Mar 13, 2023 12:09
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Lowclock posted:I guess $1k isn't that insane if it includes absolutely everything else. Thank you very much for the breakdown and effortpost. This tells me exactly where I might be getting jimmied around - I'm looking at powered subs, or whichever don't require a separate amp, in the $300-400ish range. I'll be calling this independent father son installer business with something like fifty-one five star reviews on Yelp to get their pricing, and check Best Buy to make sure it's not stupidly cheap compared to elsewhere. The stock speakers in the Spark are pretty dire. Sure, they handle high end just fine. But anything much lower than a person speaking is just completely absent at any EQ setting. Unless I crank up the bass, then it sounds like I'm rattling eggshells in a box. RIP Paul Walker posted:Oh, you’re in Portland? I assume the shop you’re talking about is Mobile West? If so, I’ll toss in another recommendation for them. I bet if you go in in person the owner will be the one chatting with you. I’m surprised there is enough business to keep him going but it’s nice to see. I was thinking about contacting them, but the drive would be a little bit inconvenient. But with a goon rec, I'll include them for sure. They were the highest ranked place with a storefront within something like twenty miles.
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Mar 14, 2023 04:31
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I wanted to make sure I wasn't talking poo poo, so I went and double checked. This is Stereo King in Gresham's "quote." Dude said he couldn't print it out, but had it saved in their system. They quoted the four speakers, even though I told him I was putting those in myself. This is without a deck. I don't like, "We can't print it out."  Car Toys, for just the powered sub and install, told me to expect a grand because it was, "two hours of labor." I told them I was interested in doing a head unit if the price was right, before they told me a grand for a sub. The guy told me he only does quotes in person, and that I would need to be there ready to go to get specifics. For reasons. I couldn't call in and say, "Hey, I want X, Y, and Z. What would be the price?" Basically, I couldn't get them nailed down on an exact price. But I'll admit, I wasn't ready to buy something after their general high sounding quotes. I don't get why it's so difficult to give me something concrete. Then he gave me a five minute spiel about financing, even though I explicitly told him at the start, "I absolutely will not finance anything, I even paid cash for my car." ---------- All that said, I might do the head unit before a sub. I'm going to drive this car forever, so I might as well have a stereo system I'll enjoy.
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Mar 14, 2023 12:04
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Recommendation Post - After a hundred or so miles in my Spark with new speakers, I'm pretty much 99% on it needing a sub. Everything sounds nicer than it should considering the speakers being two 4x4s and two 6x4s. Which I think it due to it being a tiny car without needing too much to fill it up. But anything bass heavy bottoms out pretty quick, trying to clap my new speakers or just sounding like nothing. I'll be getting it installed, due to my aforementioned mobility difficulties. Any brands or particular models for a small, powered sub I should seek out? Or better yet, avoid outright? ---------- Secondly, I updated the firmware in my Pioneer AVIC-NEX6000 head unit. It's old and finicky, not properly pairing with my phone even though the basic bluetooth works. The touchscreen loving sucks, which drives me crazier than it should. It has a GPS built-in, which is cool. But apparently we are in the age of using a GPS app from your smartphone and piping it through the head unit, which I've never experienced. It also has a backup camera that looks like it has been smudged with vasoline. This is probably the lowest priority, but what mid-range double-din head units are worth a poo poo? Which should I avoid? I'd install it myself, but almost all the car shops around here have free installation. The important feature to me would be true wireless function with my iPhone and compatibility with iOS.
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Mar 25, 2023 12:14
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I put these in the back, which go up to 75 watts. The only reason I got them was they have a billion holes for mounting, which I needed. The back speakers are a proprietary shape from Chevy and I had to get creative with a power drill and plastic shears. But, no rattle whatsoever! Kicker 47KSC4604 - 75w peak 6x4 I paired them with the same line from the same brand in the front. Kicker 47KSC404 - 75w peak 4x4 I know Kicker is meh, but for my purposes they sound great. Just without any real low end. I really don’t need much, nor do I have a ton of space. I just want enough bass to play my rap and techno loud enough.
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Mar 25, 2023 17:10
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Darchangel posted:It's worth noting that *wireless* CarPlay over wired CarPlay adds a significant premium to the price of the head unit. For that matter, CarPlay itself bumps it up. The more I hear it, the less I know what's being talked about. Up until now, I've never had a head unit with any sort of proper screen, so this is all new to me. When I'm talking about wireless, I mostly just mean it being able to pick up my Bluetooth. How does that differ from CarPlay or whatever? If it's just a couple hundred from a unit I'll use over the next decade for something a lot more intuitive, I'll pony up the cash. But I don't want to be wired unless I'm charging my phone. Wires are irritating.
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Mar 28, 2023 22:33
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So the general consensus is that CarPlay is a good thing? This is a car I will drive until it explodes, so I'm not too torn up at the thought of making an investment in whatever head unit I'll be loving around with for the next decade or so.
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Mar 29, 2023 17:04
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MrOnBicycle posted:I had no complaints while I was using Carplay before I got rid of my iPhone. Seamless and does what's needed. This was on an OEM head unit though. I think it's probably an even better idea to get Carplay if you don't already have a ton of car specific functions (like my car had augumented reality and showed arrows "on the road" in the HUD, but didn't work with anything but the stock navigation) and you are just adding to "nothing". Darchangel posted:I like it because it puts the nav, music apps, etc on a nice big solidly mounted display. Awesome, I appreciate the input. I've found out whoever put this $800 head unit (in 2013 bucks) did so at the cost of having a functioning USB or AUX outlet. They picked a model that required them to be disconnected. The rear backup camera is also garbage, looking like it has been smeared with vaseline. I don't use backup cameras, but it irritates me. The bigger irritation is the steering wheel controls are like pressing a random button. They don't do anything reliably. I'd like those to work. They also made it to where the dealership doesn't know how to apply a recall update to my car's computer. They're going to call me when they figure it out. I'm going to replace it in time, and put some effort into finding one that actually integrates with my car. I also desperately need a sub. Anything with solid bass sounds like a ratfart, even with new speakers.
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Apr 5, 2023 12:32
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Lowclock posted:What do you mean? That deck has multiple USB inputs and even aux video input. They're not even shared with anything else. The USB and AUX inputs native to the car beneath my dash are dead. Apparently, selecting a head unit with a DVD/CD player knocks them out...for reasons. I did a lot of searching on Spark forums to find out that wonderful information. Unless I've had a stroke, the unit itself doesn't have any inputs on the front, either. Well, other than the MicroUSB I used to update the firmware.
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Apr 6, 2023 04:26
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DrChu posted:Finished up the Legacy today. I struggled with the steering wheel control wiring for another hour, redoing all the connections and finding a few things I had done wrong. Most wiring diagrams for the main 20 pin connector say pin 13 is for the second SWC wire, however I found another that said it could also be pin 11. The difference is apparently due to what kind of bluetooth it was originally equipped with and it also changed mid-generation to further muddy things up. I have no idea what the line I was trying to connect to does but luckily it doesn't seem to have caused any problems. The second issue is I had the two positive lines reversed. In Atoto land the line labelled "Steering Wheel Key # (+)" corresponds to SWC 1+, while the one marked "Steering Wheel Key (+)" goes to SWC 2+. Once I swapped those I was able to assign the buttons.  There is a reason I'll pay for a pre-wired harness. Jesus Tap Dancing Christ. Because of an unexpected cost of a dental issue involving biting down on a bone in store-bought sausage, the rest of the system going into my Spark has been delayed a couple of months. After doing some unrelated modifications to other parts of the car, I'm 100% sure I'm going to be paying someone to do the head unit and sub. I could do it if my legs worked properly, but running wire would be God awful. --- Question about subs --- I have no desire to rattle my neighbors windows, and I drive a Chevy Spark. But the speakers I've installed can barely handle any bass without bottoming out. Are there any "compact" subs worth a poo poo? I've visited about four different shops, and got completely different answers from each of them. An under the seat, compact power sub would be ideal from a space saving perspective, but I don't want to pay for what would amount to underpowered junk.
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May 22, 2023 12:42
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Nocheez posted:Even just upgrading stock speakers with an aftermarket head unit can make a difference, but a small sub can definitely add much needed bass if your speakers are too small. The head unit was replaced with a top of the line (ten years ago) Pioneer Avic-NEX6000. It's glitchy as gently caress and a lot of the features don't work. But it's a decade old. I upgraded the stock speakers myself, and even managed to cram a bigger size into the back with some creative jimmy-jamming. But even a nice pair of 4x4s and 4x6s doesn't do much. I'm from the south but was born to an immigrant father, so I almost exclusive listen to old techno and rap when I'm driving. I want some bass, God damnit. Someone helped the hell out of my questions earlier in this thread, so I've decided to replace the head unit with something that does wireless Apple Play and add a sub. I could do the head unit myself, but there are steering wheel controls that I want to work. Currently, they do not, and Crutchfield is indefinitely sold out of the harnesses I'd need to make it work. I'm just trying to get a straight answer about a good sub that's not a ripoff, and literally every store salesperson has given me conflicting advice.
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May 22, 2023 16:54
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Quick Question - My Spark has a double DIN aftermarket receiver. If I purchase a new one with a free install somewhere, I'm cautioned that I'll still need to pay for the parts for hook it up. Would I need a new set of whatever the parts are called to install the new receiver? Or would the old one suffice? Also, my steering wheel controls don't work for poo poo. If I press them, they do stuff. It's just all wrong. Would that be an extra part? Or is it just wired incorrectly?
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May 29, 2023 16:39
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Awesome, I appreciate the help. My main reason for not doing the receiver myself is wanting the steering wheel controls to work, and knowing that could take some loving around. I'm absolutely capable of ordering a wiring harness from Crutchfield and doing it myself. But with "FREE INSTALL!" being offered pretty much everywhere with a receiver, I might as well let someone other than myself dick with it. I've done multiple receivers on my own, but these have all been of the extremely basic variety. I have little patience for the level of set-up required of these fancy-pants head units. If wherever I go is smart about it, they'll cut me a deal on getting a sub put in. If there isn't a financial benefit, I'll do the receiver on its own, then do the sub separately to space out the cost.
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May 30, 2023 12:13
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Alright, AI. I finally found a shop that didn't give me major sleaze vibes with a salesperson nice enough we ended up talking baseball for a while. I'll probably use them. But I'm a little town between the options I got quoted, and would also like a sanity check on the pricing. Here is what's in my car - --------------- ~ 2013 Chevy Spark ~ Pioneer AVIC-NEX6000 Head Unit (from 2013 or some poo poo) ~ two 3x3 Kicker front speakers installed myself (Kicker 47KSC404) ~ two 6x4 Kicker rear speakers installed myself (Kicker 47KSC4604) -------------- Here's what I listen to - A bunch of rap, techno, and other bass heavy poo poo -------------- Here's the options I quoted out, both with $225 of the cost being their installation. $1024 - Kicker 10 inch, low profile sub that faces down in the trunk with another big speaker looking thing that I'm forgetting the name for, with an amp, wiring, bass knob, etc. Would take up space, but facing downwards would help alleviate that poo poo. $629 - Kicker 10 powered sub, which would go under the passenger seat. I'm not looking to rattle my windows or blow out my eardrums. I also don't want to completely overpower the already puny speakers I'm stuck with in the front and back. That said, I'm leaning towards the powered sub, even if it's not going to be as beefy. Thoughts?
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Jun 9, 2023 22:43
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everdave posted:That just seems like a lot of money these days to bump in a Spark, I know you are limited to what you can do yourself bc of mobility. Yeah, I’m paying about $225 (within those listed prices) for an install. It blows, but I’m not running cable with my legs. But the Sparks speakers are loving pitiful for a car I’m going to drive forever.
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Jun 10, 2023 01:52
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Lowclock posted:Did they actually write this stuff up? I'm not sure if that $225 install is included in those other prices, or what parts are in the $1024 package. gently caress me, we even wrote down the dimensions of the individual boxes and poo poo without listing the exact products. Let me see if I can find them on Crutchfield, but I'll call the dude later and get the exact models - I'm about 99% sure this was the Under-The-Seat option - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20646HS10/Kicker-46HS10.html Plus wiring poo poo and I think a flat 225 install. I believe this was the bigger option - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_20649PTRT0/Kicker-49PTRTP10.html With a their prices - - $299 Kicker Sub - $279 Kicker Amp - $225 Flat Install on sub - $39 Bass Volume Knob + $16 Install - $129 Fancy Pants Wiring, with the option of going with a cheaper $65 wiring package He wrote down the parts numbers, I just don't have a reference. I'm basically looking at about $629 vs. $985 - $1030ish. I will drive this car until it explodes, and I want good sound. I will eventually upgrade the head unit, too. But I don't want a sub that overpowers my puny speakers, if that's a thing.
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Jun 10, 2023 17:06
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For what it's worth, this shop has a lifetime warranty on any work they do. Not sure how standard that may or may not be, but I don't think I'd get that at Best Buy for free. They are less than two miles from my place, so I like that peace of mind if something shits itself. God, I wish I could just do this myself. I've never paid an audio shop for work before, but I know I'd be physically in over my head trying to do this myself.
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Jun 10, 2023 17:12
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everdave posted:I mean if those are the crutchfield prices I guess the $600 option installed is ok. If you are paying someone and it’s going to make you happy go for it. That $300 for a powered sub seems high to me but I trust crutchfield. Hope it works out like you want On the power option, I'm admittedly looking at the nicest one in the store. They have cheaper ones that match up pretty close to Crutchfield prices. But I keep hearing some people say even the best is underpowered. The one requiring the separate amp and everything is all about space, which is hugely limited in a Spark. But my worry is less price, and more turning my car into nothing but a bass box. I still want to be able to hear my music. For me, this is a big purchase. But music is such a huge part of my life, I don't want literally every time I'm listening to something to involve cringing at the weak as gently caress bass. Also frantically turning down bassy songs so I don't clap out my speakers is a thing. $600ish and fitting under my seat would be preferable, but $1k for the right option is doable if it's in a car I'll drive forever.
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Jun 10, 2023 21:43
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empty baggie posted:I had 2 12” subs in an up firing box under the back seat of my truck, and I replaced it with 2 10” subs in a down-firing box (same amp for both boxes) and the down-firing box ended up sounding much better. Yeah, I think I'm leaning that way. I also haven't done any haggling on the price yet, so I think I can get it down a little bit paying cash. I literally have money saved from when I bought the car, having planned from the get-go to put in a good system. One more question - I purposely had the quote done with all the "nice" options, which were obviously more expensive. I was shown the various wiring kits and cables, and the quote had some fancy-pants brand wiring kit for the sub that was $129. But there was an alternative for $65. I grew up in Nashville and used to play a lot of music. Had a music industry job, had a friend whose Dad mastered Grammy winning albums, and all sorts of poo poo. I always remember expensive cables being a loving ripoff, like MONSTER brand. Is paying double for the wiring kit worth it in this case? Or is it "audio experts swear these sound better for reasons" hokum?
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Jun 11, 2023 13:11
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LloydDobler posted:Copper is copper. The difference in quality, if any, is not worth double IMO. I say save a few bucks where you can. I think the $129 kit would be one of these. But after doing some googling, I think I'll stick with the cheaper kit. I don't really know what advantage going with a branded install kit would do for my modest needs. https://www.kicker.com/amplifier-install-kits Like I mentioned, I straight up told the guy to just quote the nicer option, knowing I could talk to y'all and adjust down per recommendations. As always, you've all been an invaluable resource for my dumb rear end.
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Jun 11, 2023 17:40
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Lowclock posted:Hard to tell without actual part numbers, but the cheaper kit might be copper clad aluminum wire. At this level of power it shouldn't really matter as long as it's sized and installed correctly. I am almost certain that was the difference. Copper was something that was said.
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Jun 12, 2023 04:25
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I did it. Holy gently caress, I literally don't know how I went my whole adult life without a real system. I'm grinning like an idiot and finding excuses to drive everywhere. That said, is there a way to keep your rearview mirror from vibrating so aggressively?  ( Serious question, though )
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Jun 17, 2023 11:43
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Wasabi the J posted:There's usually a hidden bolt to tighten. Will check it out. I'm still loving giddy. I've gone my whole life going from lovely car to lovely car with systems cobbled together from poo poo. This? It's nice.
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Jun 18, 2023 04:16
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Lowclock posted:Awesome. Glad it turned out nice. Which sub did you end up going with? Maybe next you can get a cheap measurement mic and set up some parametric EQ and delay on your phone and get it to a point where you just sit in your car to listen to music, haha. I got the down firing Kicker 10'' downfiring Kicker with a "radiator." I'm pretty sure that if I turned it up all the way, I'm pop my windows. All that said, the install was extremely well done. I don't have a single rattle, everything is clean as gently caress, and they let me know quite a few times that their work has a lifetime warranty. If I have any issues, I take it two miles down the street and get it fixed for free. This part of the purchase has been worth every cent. Ignore those wires, they're to my old man Garmin that I refuse to give up for the time being -  This makes it so incredibly easy to fine tune just how much bass a song needs, while being able to kill the bass when I pull into my condo community. While I'm a young guy for the community at 38, they would be down my throat if my little shoebox was bumping every time I pulled into my place. I'm going to do the head unit down the road. But for now, it's doing the job just fine. I'm actually listening to music at a lower overall volume on the head unit, because I'm not trying to choke out my tiny speakers for more volume than they should be putting out.
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Jun 20, 2023 12:12
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Oh poo poo, I forgot to post one of the funniest things about the whole install. Like I mentioned before, my steering wheel controls were hosed. If you pressed a button, it did something random. This is relevant - My car is a 2013. The head unit was $899 in 2013. The backup camera was installed incorrectly, and the stock speakers were left in the car. It was mind boggling to spend money on that head unit, gently caress up the steering wheel controls, and do the backup camera wrong. I fixed everything but the steering wheel controls. The car installers told me they probably left off some module for the car steering wheels, and told me it would cost $200-$300 to pick up the correct module, install and program it. They told me it wasn't worth spending the money on fixing, unless it really bugged me. I agreed. They called me midway through the install to tell me the correct module for the steering wheel controls was already inside the car. The people who put it in a decade ago did it wrong. They fixed it, and now my steering wheel controls work and it didn't cost me anything. What the gently caress were the people who put in the head unit thinking?!
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Jun 20, 2023 13:32
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I'm just so loving befuddled at the concept of buying the $299 steering wheel control module, then hooking it up completely wrong and going, "Ehh, when I press a button, something happens. Not the right thing, and it produces a completely random result. Sounds good enough to me." I've still not turned my sub all the way up, because I'm confident my car might explode. Still, not a single instance of rattling. I'm impressed with the install.
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Jun 26, 2023 12:42
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Lowclock posted:They were likely embellishing quite a bit. The SWC module for that car is like <$70 retail even now, and if it was hooked up completely wrong it wouldn't work at all. It probably just needed to be reprogrammed which takes like 30 seconds. Oh, I was just quoting an overall price. They told me there were three different modules available varying in price, plus install. I’m talking about the person who bought the part in 2013, with money, and installed it so badly pressing a steering wheel button would do God only knows what. I don’t get that much effort to do something wrong.
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Jun 26, 2023 16:50
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Assuredly Stupid Question for a New Sub Owner - As y'all know, my car's regular speakers are puny. Two 3x3s and two 4x6s. I installed new ones myself, but if I turn up my volume much past mid they start to clap. Is there any particular recommended way to run my head unit to keep the low end on my sub? I was just using the "Powerful" preset, but switching to "Natural" helps. Also, having the independent little knob to control the sub is helpful.
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Jun 30, 2023 20:27
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Lowclock posted:You can set a high pass filter on your head unit to keep the bass out of your little speakers. I'd probably start with those default settings and maybe raise the frequency a little if it still isn't handling it well. Check out page 166 of this manual.
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Jul 1, 2023 12:57
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