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leica posted:^^^^ Looks good If I had the money, I'd trade my Blazer for a Crown Vic in a hot second. Only issue is I'd really like it to be a manual, and Ford made approximately seven of those.
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Mar 8, 2013 00:51
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SouthLAnd posted:The 93-95 Taurus/Sable center console looks good in CVs (never mind the non matching colors). I've seen the shifter cutout converted into a handy storage bin. Ah yes, the oft-overlooked upside to parts-bin interiors: everything is interchangable.
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Mar 26, 2013 03:24
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I just noticed the subtle humor in having a Red vs. Blue reference in the title of a thread about cop cars.
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Apr 1, 2013 07:42
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Lord Gaga posted:The lo-po 302 is garbage, absolute abject boat anchor garbage...worse than a Chevy 305 Even the good 302s have issues above 400HP or so with the blocks splitting, don't they? Either way, yeah, you'd be better off holding out for a 4.6-powered one in good nick -- or, hell, building one of your GM cars. I'm sure one or two of them has a small block or 3.8 V6 tucked under the hood.
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Apr 13, 2013 01:56
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Hmmm... no.
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Apr 14, 2013 18:28
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Honestly it wouldn't surprise me if the linkage had no actual effect at all, and the rating drop was meant to "encourage" buyers towards a
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Apr 20, 2013 22:35
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" This here F-250's got a GVWR of 12,000 lbs."*Loads 12,800 onto a single-axle trailer, plus a pallet of bricks in the bed*
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Apr 21, 2013 05:01
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14 INCH DETECTIVE posted:I thought I read somewhere the final Vics were like 4400 lbs. They probably are in active cop duty trim, all that radio gear and weapon storage has got to add up.
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May 3, 2013 05:50
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Well obviously I was referring to curb weight. 
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May 3, 2013 18:54
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leica posted:2nd week of July I'm taking time off and hopefully gonna put a dent in the huge pile of parts I have for the Vic. I want to get it done but I'm not exactly excited about it because gently caress working on cars in FL in July I've had a new upper control arm for my Blazer for a month, I just can't summon up the motivation to go get sunburned and dehydrated from working outside for 2 hours. drat heat. And then it dumps rain for 20 minutes and the rest of the day is like working in a sauna. Relevant to the thread, I potentially saved a Towncar from having its airbags pinched open the other day. Dumbass coworker (who's been there longer than me) forgot to switch off the air ride and the bags deflated. I managed to lower it down slow enough that they pumped back up. I always wondered why they didn't just close the vents when the suspension gets past like 50% droop; I know some GM truck that had it was set up that way.
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Jul 2, 2013 02:49
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leica posted:I don't want a huge tank, besides I have an 18v cordless impact that works awesome. Are they those chrome-jacketed steel pieces of poo poo? If so you should look into getting solid metal ones, they don't disintegrate after being on the road for two
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Jul 16, 2013 06:10
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I believe that's also when they went to a rack and pinion setup, did an oil change on a 99 that still had a recirculating ball. Makes the oil filter a bastard to get to on the newer cars, but the drive is much better.
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Aug 28, 2013 00:14
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SouthLAnd posted:Honestly, panthers are so cool, all engine swaps become cool by default. Cadillac V8-6-4. 
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Dec 9, 2013 05:42
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Coredump posted:Than this should be the default answer. A v8 with all that off the line torque of a positive displacement blower in a boat like the Crown Vic? Sends shivers up my spine I tell you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqhczIGh_aY
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Dec 9, 2013 17:44
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kastein posted:and it is just as bullshit in this case as it is in any other. Says the man who owns dangerous military equipment.
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Apr 2, 2014 03:16
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Sunshine Mix posted:I have a (probably pretty dumb) question. I have an '03 Marauder with a punctured hose. I've highlighted the hose in the provided picture. What am I looking at? PCV breather hose, vents combustion blowby (gases that push past the piston rings into the crankcase) into the intake to be re-burned. Should be a dime a dozen.
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Sep 4, 2014 03:39
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Why the gently caress are you doing 130 on underinflated tires?
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Oct 31, 2014 06:21
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 sup gang I finally joined the cool kids club P71, 153k, pretty good nick all things considered. Brake light doesn't work, that's the only real issue (the relay for it is loud as gently caress though). My trip meter has odometer, trip, and a third unlabeled setting that seems to display some upside down numbers, is that something to do with speedo calibration? Also is there a quick way to see what rear end this car has? Haven't been on the highway yet but it turns 1500rpm at 50 in what i think is top gear. It was reportedly a detective's car so no holes where cruiser equipment used to be. Full dash, front bench, aftermarket cup holders beneath the factory ones, standard stereo, police map light, and of course the spotlight.
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Apr 21, 2017 04:42
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Cage posted:That thing is sweet! I have a push bar that I probably won't be using anymore if you want it. Arent you NEAI or am I thinking of someone else? Nah I'm central FL.
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Apr 21, 2017 14:20
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Looks good, how much you end up paying for it? Yeah I've used universal ones in the past, they work half decent for a few weeks before the nylon edge ribbing starts disintegrating in the sun and turning to powder. Hopefully I can find a good tint person in the area for relatively cheap. I'm wary of doing the trans, might have to schlep over to my mom's and do just a partial drain/fill initially before getting a full service w/ filter, just so the fresh detergents get introduced a bit more gradually.
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Apr 21, 2017 17:43
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Chat thread cross post:Enourmo posted:Oh lol Unless they're all delivered white and the department sprays em?
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Apr 25, 2017 17:22
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Interior is stained but not particularly worn down. Real backseats; I was under the impression they would swap the real seats back in when they auctioned the car off. No signs of a removed barricade between front and rear, either. I'm noticing the car doesn't seem to get as hot in the sun as the Mazda did; maybe just a lower ratio of exterior glass to cabin volume and/or exposed dash area. Either way, my window shades are out for delivery, so step 1 of heat rejection is almost complete. Also did my first full tank, got about 19 mpg on ethanol-free gas. Incidentally, I can finally use ethanol-free (read: non-93-octane) gas; bye-bye turbo babying.
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Apr 25, 2017 20:25
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Does it have bucket seats or split bench? If it's split bench definitely not a cruiser. Darchangel posted:Standard rear seat on P71s is black vinyl. Matching fabric was optional. Here's another tell: do the rear doors open from the inside, and is there a lock knob? Do the power windows work from the rear door switches? Cloth seats all around, split bench front, rear inner door handles work, only the standard child lock, rear windows work from rear switches. Guess that settles it, not a cruiser. Weird about the paint though, but at least it matches the new vent shades; phone was dead when I put em on so no pics til later.
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Apr 26, 2017 00:26
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Mine is doing that too, I'm a couple trips away from just yanking the ABS fuse.
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Apr 26, 2017 05:32
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I don't know if they still had air ride suspension that late, but if so be wary of that on any Towncar. Both the airbags and the lovely plastic air lines running to them from the pump module can get brittle and crack with age; it's a common enough issue that coil spring conversion kits are easily had. If you have a Continental you might be familiar already, just a heads up.
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Jun 20, 2017 17:09
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Yeah, the spring is preloaded so that at full droop there's no load on the control arm. Whole unit should come out pretty easy.
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Sep 12, 2017 17:24
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Oh jeeze, even a $50 Kenwood deck is 5x the sound quality versus the stock radio. Normally I don't care so much (which is why I had the wired FM modulator) but I had Amazon credit and decided to splurge. Even the stock speakers sound pretty good now. Right? I posted in one of the other threads but I finally swapped my Kenwood into mine and stuff played over bluetooth sounds fantastic. I had actually thought the stock speakers were blown, but nope. FM signal is still garbage though. I've been educated about aux antennas but meh, stations are poo poo around here anyway. That said, there was an antenna screwed onto my trunk lid when I got it, the threaded fitting is still there on the sheet metal. Removing that antenna didn't make my FM signal worse so it was probably for removed CB/cop radio equipment, but I wonder if it could be repurposed to augment the windshield-integrated one.
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Nov 3, 2017 07:50
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Huggable Bear King posted:How do you know when it's time to move on? When the car no longer meets your needs. Get a 200-mile daily commute? Time to get a hybrid. That's when you put the Merc into storage and start planning your Coyote swap to make an even badder Marauder.
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Jan 13, 2018 22:26
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Any good shortcuts for doing heater cores? The 70 degree dewpoint weather lately is making it a pain in the rear end to drive around without mine, either I run a/c and fog up the outside, or I leave it off, sweat and steam up the inside.
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May 22, 2018 10:12
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First off, get ye to the A/C thread for fundamentals of how to work on these systems. For Panthers specifically, replacing the compressor itself is kinda annoying due to being on the bottom, but not too involved, provided you  properly recover the refrigerant first. Make sure you also pick up a new accumulator since your system will be open to atmosphere. The latter is held on by quick-connect fittings which are kind of annoying to undo. Pick up a set of quick-connect tools from whatever parts store, you'll need em; technically you can finagle things with a couple screwdrivers, but the proper tool is like $10 for a set and far faster to use.The bigger issue is, why did the compressor die? If something seized up in the pulley/shaft end, fine, but if the actual compressor section took a dump you'll have bigger problems, as that tends to send fine metal shavings ("black death") through the system, which will very quickly destroy your new one. Check the compressor discharge tube and the old accumulator lines to see if there's any nasty stuff inside. If there is, you'll need to replace the condenser (as there's no good way to flush modern multi-path parallel flow ones) and thoroughly flush all the lines, and hope nothing got past the screen on the orifice tube (which you'd also want to replace in this case just to be safe. No matter what, you'll want to pour all the oil out of the old parts into some sort of measuring device, then thoroughly clean it. Then, pour any new oil out of the new parts into the same cup, and add additional fresh oil to make up the difference before adding it back in. Any o-rings on lines you disconnect should be replaced, and lubricated with oil before re-assembling. After that it's vacuum and recharge time.
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Jul 17, 2018 16:55
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So my car made a funny noise, got out and found the #4 coil/boot laying up on the valve cover, and the spark plug itself wiggled when I poked it with a screwdriver. On a scale of lol to you're hosed, how likely is it that I've avoided the Modular curse, and the spark plug just happened to loosen on its own over time? My phone camera is lovely and dying and wouldn't focus normally, so here's an artsy silhouette (click for huge). I couldn't get the plug out the first time I pulled over, but I heard a clunk about 1000 feet down the road, pulled over again and it was resting up near the heater core ports. I don't know if it was initially like this or if that's impact damage from getting shot out, but the ground electrode looks awfully close for a plug of indeterminate mileage, and the center electrode has a weird lump on one side. I don't see any aluminum gumming up the threads, but I can't get a good angle down the plug hole to see if the threads in the head are hosed or not.  If this was the notorious thread issue, should I get inserts on all 8 cylinders or just this one?
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Sep 24, 2018 04:41
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Alright kids, time for the latest adventures of the world's least reliable Panther. Had to get a tow home last night when the car started losing speed on the highway. I pulled a VSS code, gave them my old ABS module to reinstall just in cast that being absent was causing some fuckiness with the sensor signal but no dice, still has issues. The shop is saying the trans is borked and needs a rebuild, because of loving course it does. E: I pulled the ABS because it has never worked and I wanted to inspect it/get a part # in case I ever decide to replace it, I meant to reinstall, just didn't out of laziness. /E How likely is it that there's just a corroded pin or the sensor's toast and the expensive bits are actually fine? Code is a P062C, car seems fine through 1st and 2nd but has no 3rd or above.
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Nov 10, 2018 21:18
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That's what I was told over the phone by the shop I dropped it at. At this point, I've resolved to take it home (on Monday because I hosed up and forgot the shop closes at 4 on Saturdays) and just look at it myself. FWIW though cycling OD on and off made no difference, would not maintain speed or transmit any power above 40. Even if it's OD it should shift back to a lower gear when I gun the throttle, no? At highway speeds it was hunting but never going into any gear, whether feathering the gas or flooring it, or anywhere in between.
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Nov 10, 2018 22:11
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So I'm about to go shower and get the car from the shop to do my own diagnosis, but I just realized something. When my breakdown happened, the speedometer was still working perfectly. Yet the code was absolutely a VSS code. Could it run the speedo but still be hosed up enough to cause shifting issues? Editing to update: on a tip from Adiabatic in the Slack channel I looked for a wiring diagram, couldn't find one, but I did find a diagnostic flowchart for shifting/throttle issues where step one for a P062c code is "inspect ABS system and wheel speed sensors for proper operation". This does several things: 1, confirms almost conclusively that this code is looking at wheel speed sensor signals, or a combined output from the ABS system, and not a discrete VSS on the transmission, if the car even has one. 2, very strongly reinforces my suspicion that yanking the ABS module like I did is probably related, and that a proper code wipe now that the shop has put it back in may be all it needs. 3, makes me think this shop doesn't really do any diagnosis at all and just shotguns the most profitable parts cannon work at it that they can. I already told the guy when he delivered the $3,000 bad news that I probably didn't have that in my budget for a car that's broken this many times in rapid succession, and he without a moment's hesitation started offering me loving store credit cards to pay for the job. I thought that was a thing at big retail store chains, not dedicated repair shops. Anyway. Actually going to shower and get car now. Bringing my laptop so I can use the fancier Ford-based scan tool software instead of Torque Lite. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 16:00 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 15:09
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So update for the non slack crew, drove with my laptop and all speed sensors are fine, car shifts fine at all speeds but when it selects 4th gear, the gear doesn't actually lock in; engine revs and speed drops. Could a hiccuping speed signal while the abs module was out have made the clutch pack or whatever for 4th cycle super fast and wear out? It wasn't hunting or shifting weird at all during the week I had the module removed, and it was fine even 1 drive before the breakdown, just a few hours before. Seems strange that I could have a friction device go from 0 to dead in that short a time. E: at the very least, the module is back in and there are no more codes or CELs, other than for the abs which has always been lit. So the computer, at least, thinks everything is fine. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Nov 12, 2018 |
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Nov 12, 2018 19:21
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Ok so, that was on Friday night with the ABS/VSS issues. Tried again just now, and yes indeed, when I disable OD it'll stay in 3rd. Is this pretty much a hard indicator that 4th is mechanically hosed? I keep holding out hope there's some electronic thing I've overlooked that'll magically fix everything. As far as wiring, Wikipedia is showing that I should have a 4R75E, don't know how much that difference that would make vs the 4R70 models.
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Nov 13, 2018 00:45
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Well, at least that presumably won't involve tearing into the gear stack like I feared, and hey, fresh fluid never hur- okay sometimes that can cause problems but it looks like I'm going in regardless. At least it's presumably not generating metal shavings to go into spinny bits. Time to set up a work day, I guess.
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Nov 13, 2018 01:27
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikk56cIHL_g Oh man this vid is gonna be a lifesaver, got links to a bunch of parts as well as torque info for the valve body.
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Nov 15, 2018 18:49
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So I had to drive my car around today and it occurred to me, does the lockup clutch engage with overdrive disabled? Am I potentially loving up my converter by driving around like that? I got paranoid and did the rest of my driving in a very burn-and-coast style to avoid cruising, am I overthinking it?
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Nov 16, 2018 03:46
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Alright I've googled like i should have and it does seem like it only locks up in OD, so that's good to know. I've never driven a car without lockup, it's really annoying waiting for the converter to load up when I go from coast/cruise to accelerating. E: Also I've realized that if I don't do the heater core while it's down for the transmission job I will hate myself forever. Ugh.
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Nov 16, 2018 04:28
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