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Leperflesh posted:You can boil and quench models to improve stiffness, much like the blacksmith who raises the blade to a glowing red heat before quenching it in the new-driven snow. ...That tears it. When I mass-boil my minis, I'm listening to Basil Poledouris' Conan soundtracks. Anyone else notice any unsightly residue on their models? A couple of mine had some sort of crusty, light sepia stains on them when they first arrived. I didn't bother washing them at the time, thinking I'd do that prior to painting; but a few weeks later the stains have darkened to the point that they look like this:  Should I be concerned, like contact-Reaper-support concerned, or just attack these guys with Simple Green and a toothbrush?
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Aug 6, 2013 18:49
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Does anyone recall who made the single-page picture for Bones I's Vampire package, with mouse-over crosslinks to the corresponding products on the Reaper website? Have they (or someone else) started on a similar project for Bones II? Am I jumping the gun?
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Oct 2, 2013 06:24
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Dagon posted:I think you mean this, and yeah, <24 hours is probably jumping the gun. Give it a week, I'm sure there will be something similar. That was it, thanks! ...And yeah, I guess I'm getting a bit twitchy for new plastic mans. (I'm actually curious because some of the models in the "Expansion Option" look more enticing than others, and I'm wondering if they're available now in metal. Because I definitely don't have enough tonnage of unpainted miniatures on my desk right now.)
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Oct 2, 2013 06:54
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If you're using an airbrush, I've had decent luck with Vallejo Surface Primer. You just want to make sure not to apply it too heavily, and give it extra drying time. (I've also had weird issues with some GW washes on Vallejo/Bonesium, but further research suggests that might be a problem with the wash itself.) e: Dammit, top of the page. Here are some (lousy pictures) of my painted Bones from the oath thread:   
Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Nov 23, 2013 |
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Nov 23, 2013 17:31
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I'm also stuck in the processing loop for wave 1. If that doesn't go through, I'll take wave 2, that's also scheduled for August, but you'd think they'd have their internal processes ironed out by now. I mean, this is their fourth go at these. ...Unless we broke Kickstarter. Did we break Kickstarter? 
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Jul 7, 2015 16:19
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Is anyone else stuck in the Sisyphean ordeal of "Your pledge is still processing, please try again momentarily" for the past two hours, or is it just me? (Complaints of that nature seem to have petered out on the comments page.)
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Jul 7, 2015 18:37
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I also just got my confirmation email--Wave 1! Thanks for the moral support! e: GaistHeidegger: 
Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Jul 7, 2015 |
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Jul 7, 2015 19:06
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senrath posted:And the option to pledge for bits and pieces of the core set has opened up. Which is terrific and all, but what's with the lack of lizardman addons? How am I supposed to build a KoW lizardman force if I can't aaarrrglblargl  e: i'm secretly still really excited
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Jul 9, 2015 18:53
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An Angry Bug posted:Why are the lizard minis not available as an add-on? I really want to get them, but there's just so much stuff in the core set that doesn't interest me. I can take or leave so much of the stuff in there, but lizards. I'm with you on that. Lizardpeople for life! ...Am I the only one who's pleased that Reaper themselves are now using the name "Bonesium" for these (as in "the weapons sprue is cast in rigid Bonesium!")?
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Jul 13, 2015 18:12
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NTRabbit posted:It is brush on. I brush on future shine, it dries, I brush on Alclad II Klear Kote Flat, it dries, then weeks later it turns tacky, and it's only happening to Bones minis. Somehow whatever it is that is doing it is leaching through a soapy water scrub, vallejo primer, multiple coats of acrylic paint, and floor polish, in order to muck up the flat varnish. I use Liquitex matte and satin varnishes over Future, and they tend to work fairly well on Bonesium. I usually spray them through an airbrush, but lately I've been doing a combination of overall spray and brush-on in spots, and that seems to be working so far. You should be able to pick up Liquitex for fairly cheap at your local hobby stores if you want to give it a shot. (Of course, I also do the boil-the-living-poo poo-then-ice-water treatment on all my Bones minis before priming, so maybe that helps with whatever gunk might otherwise leak out?)
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Jun 1, 2016 17:28
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Bucnasti posted:I've been having great results with Vallejo Surface primer brushed onto bones. Right out of the bottle it goes on thin covers well and paint sticks to it great. Once painted I spray on some Testors clear coat and my bones are nearly indestructible afterwards. Thirded. I'm curious about the Badger Stynylrez, though (a product name I was only able to recall how to spell thanks to my autocorrect somehow doing its job for once).
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Jun 1, 2016 18:07
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JackMann posted:I'm wave one and I'm all for them getting all the waves out as fast as they can. I don't need to have my stuff way before everyone else, I just want to have my stuff. I like that other people are getting cool stuff too. drat straight. Simultaneous fulfillment for everyone! (I just wish they'd give some idea how long it'll take to get everything sorted once customs releases the containers. "The shipments are in! Shipping to backers in just 6 short weeks!")
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Apr 7, 2017 21:40
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JerryLee posted:I'm pretty sure I had to do some gapfilling/covering on Nathavarr too. If you're having trouble doing it with liquid greenstuff, might I suggest using actual greenstuff (or one of the similar epoxy putties) instead? From my brief experience trying the 'liquid' version, it was a decidedly inferior solution for most of the applications you'd want it for-- the convenience simply isn't worth the lowered effectiveness in my book. Yeah, liquid greenstuff is really only useful for small-scale gap filling, thin seams and the like (for example, the humped back on the GW Cairn Wraith, or the chunk of Fat Yuan Yuan base I had to glue after cracking it). It's basically a smoothing putty, not a structural adhesive like 2-part greenstuff. Nice job on the base, NTRabbit! Looking forward to seeing how your Nathavarr turns out. (I'm planning on painting mine to resemble Vermithrax Pejorative, which I guess means I need to watch Dragonslayer again...it's been way too long.) djfooboo posted:My body is ready same e.: Dammit, top of the page again? Here, have a Bones troll I did some time back. 
Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 08:25 on May 11, 2017 |
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May 11, 2017 08:22
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JackMann posted:Unrelated to our poor life choices, someone on the Reaper forum is running an experiment. Using 91% isopropyl alcohol to leach the plasticizers, he was able to reduce the bendiness of some Bones minis. He's now doing trials to figure out if it's repeatable, if it hurts their durability, if it makes them harder to paint, etc. When he has more data, I'll let you guys know. ...You wouldn't happen to have a link to the Reaper forum post(s) about this experiment, would you? I'm curious but lazy. 
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May 13, 2017 12:52
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Excellent; thanks, JackMann! It's a fun read so far. I'm liking the scientific-journal approach the OP takes.
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May 13, 2017 13:14
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Got a delivery notification that my 13# box is on its way and I can't wait  People who've received their Boneses: are we getting packing lists in the packages? I just wanted to check what's in the box against my pledged order (I deal with logistics at work pretty frequently and it's made me unreasonably paranoid about any kind of shipping, especially UPS).
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May 26, 2017 22:34
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Thanks! It did come with a paper list, so no problems there. Here's me opening the box: "Okay, Mouslings check, Core Set check...hmm, what's this plain unmarked cardboard box....  "I'm very impressed that they managed to fit Ma'aldrakar into a single box that small.
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May 27, 2017 00:26
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Peas and Rice posted:I know I thought at one point "hey it would be cool to have all this graveyard stuff to paint!" and now I'm like "what in the holy hell was I thinking." I finished painting my last bones in 2015. I'm kinda feeling the same way, though that's mostly because I can't quite figure out how to put the roof onto the mausoleum so that it's removable. (Also I've already managed to lose the tiny hinge piece for the front door somewhere on a patterned carpet  )Really looking forward to doing the Graveyard Golem, though. I like how he looks like he's built from leftover bits of Tim Burton scenery.
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May 28, 2017 00:56
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Slimnoid posted:I've been debating on how to do that too ever since I saw the update featuring it. Is there nothing for the roof to kind of 'catch' on to let it rest? If not, I suspect you could do something with plasticard to create little notches somewhere. Maybe with rare earth magnets while you're at it, if you're whacko enough. There are shelves at the tops of the longer walls that should hold the roof; it's just that the roof itself is a bit overlong. It's designed to fit into slots on the short walls, which I find bewildering; there's decent detail on the interior walls, why would you not want that to be more visible? Come on, Reaper. It'll just take some cutting to make the roof slip into place from the top and sit on the shelves, but I'm not in the mood to tackle that right now; gotta find the hinge cover first (or jury-rig one out of greenstuff and a coffee stirrer). Anyone know if there are assembly instructions for the Sledgehammer BFG? Most of it is pretty straightforward, but there are all these little extraneous greeblies that just don't seem to fit anywhere and aren't visible in the photos.
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May 28, 2017 01:29
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Cat Face Joe posted:I've gone from hype to nauseous. I've found it helps if you separate and bag your minis by type. Like, all the orcs in one bag, elves in another, Asian-style beings in a third, all the spacemans, the lizardmans, why do i have so many lizardmans.... ...Okay, maybe "helps" isn't the right word here. But it's great for, um, keeping perspective! 
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Jun 1, 2017 15:15
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food court bailiff posted:Why did I think I needed so many lizardmen Well, what I'm trying to do with my Bones (assuming work ever allows me time to paint them) is put together some warbands sorted by species. I've already got a warband of orcs:     (Obviously these are not all Bones, but you get the idea. Picture #2 is all Bones, including the guy on the far right who's been converted from a spearman to a crossbowman.) My next projects include groups of halfling/gnomes, dwarves, dark elves/high elves, and humans with a sinister necromancy-esque vibe to them. I'm also considering doing a band of lizardpeople, now that I have like 30 of them. I probably just need to convert a couple to be holding staves to act as casters. All a Frostgrave warband really takes are 1-2 obvious caster types (to represent the wizard and apprentice), and the other figures can be sort of counts-as X if they look the type. (This guy with the two-handed sword is a barbarian; this guy with the club is a thug, etc.) That's one of the benefits of a miniatures-neutral game like Frostgrave--you don't have to have any specific models for your characters. Dr. Gargunza fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Jun 14, 2017 |
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Jun 14, 2017 21:49
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I ordered two extra Creepin Lizards packs, apparently, even though I actually have some lizardmen in bones already, enough for 99% of the kinds of encounters I run in my games. I want to say at one point I might have hosed with the pledge manager with the intention of getting into some kinda wargame but I have no idea what the wargame hotness du jour was when I ordered - what games would shitloads of lizards be good for?
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Indolent Bastard posted:I figured I'd hit at least $100 worth of stuff this time around so I pledged $100 to boost the campaign now rather than at the end like I normally do. I did the same, and though some of the add-ons look kinda tempting, there's only one thing I really want: Peas and Rice posted:Baba Yaga Baba Yaga Baba Yaga BABA loving YAGA. ...yeah.
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Aug 1, 2017 20:59
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I'm keeping watch on the KS comments and Reaper's Twitter feed, and what they need to do is post something involving the phrase "future endeavors" if they want to keep my business. Their current level of response might--might--have been adequate in a week where someone hadn't been murdered by Nazis, but in the current atmosphere it's just not enough.
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Aug 15, 2017 18:51
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After my somewhat alarmist reaction before about Reaper "keeping my business," I've cooled off a bit after seeing their relatively swift, kinda-measured-by-modern-standards response. Obviously nothing is final and the situation still sucks, but I think that the higher-ups at Reaper are at least putting forth some effort to make things better. Honestly, the thing that turned me most against Clark was that goddamn Obama/Hillary image macro, which was racist, sexist, Islamophobic, and just plain lazy and stupid. I guarantee he didn't take the minimal effort to MSPaint that together himself, just grabbed it off some far-right message board to throw gasoline onto his "argument." (Not sure what it says about me that I find that picture the most offensive thing in an argument thread that included transphobia, homophobia, and chanting "NAZI NAZI NAZI" at a Holocaust-survivor family member; nor do I know why I expect any level of intellectual consistency in a Facebook slapfight.) I think I'm just worn out. Things have been getting completely out of hand in this country from the top and bottom since last year, and in the midst of genuine concerns I have for the safety of friends, coworkers, and people I care about, now the monsters are invading my hobby spaces. Stay out of my nerdgames, you bastards The one silver lining: if hard-right fascist-defender dickbags are quitting Reaper over having their fee-fees hurt by a miniature company's commie-pinko HR policies of inclusion and tolerance: Good. That makes me want to up my pledge, not cancel it. (Plus, hey, they're unlocking the Hut sooner, so there's that. Self-interest and whatnot.) ...Sorry this turned into a rant/helldump; there are other threads I could put these thoughts into and actually be on topic. Apparently I have a lot to work out, and I just really want to get back to worrying about normal things. Like how many months late fulfillment is going to be on this KS.
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Aug 16, 2017 16:22
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NTRabbit posted:Yeah, Victoria is definitely good people, a light read of some public posts and she's pro animal, pro environment, pro LGBT rights, pro union, pro socialist policies like public health and housing, anti Rupert Murdoch, very anti Tony Abbott and the Liberal party (our conservatives) All that and she's really friendly in person as well, or at least she was at this year's Adepticon (where she was on the floor at the Reaper booth, in "disguise" as just a random sales clerk). Lamb deserves so much more recognition and credit in this hobby.
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Sep 2, 2017 18:17
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JerryLee posted:It's unfortunate that her oeuvre doesn't really extend much, if at all, past Imperial Guard type stuff. I don't see what's so wrong with that.
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Sep 3, 2017 04:29
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food court bailiff posted:What do people use the Chronoscope stuff for? I'm always tempted to get some modern/scifi stuff but I really don't know that I'd get a ton of use out of them. I used some for a 1930's pulp RPG a few years back, despite the fact that the game didn't require miniatures. If you're including Weird Science in your game, several minis from the product line work really well for that. There are a few from the newer Deadlands Noir line that are just modern enough to work for early 20th Century games, and some of those recently came out in Bonesium.
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Sep 27, 2017 15:00
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Leperflesh posted:If you don't mind adding a step, you can start with a third bowl contianing soapy water, to wash off any mold release that might be on the mini. Comedy option: boil the minis in water with dish soap in it. You can reposition the figures, wash off the mold release agent, and clean your microwave in one step! I have a tendency to boil the living poo poo out of my Bonesium minis, usually for 45 seconds to a minute for the smaller figures and much longer for the big models, set pieces, etc. This seems to get rid of a lot of the mold release just in that step. There's also a thread on the Reaper forums, about a Bones user who was experimenting with soaking the minis in 90% isopropyl alcohol for an extended time after boiling and ice-watering them, to leach out the plasticizers that make them floppy. I guess they've gotten some good results from that. My own experiments with the alcohol method also worked fairly well to stiffen the plastic (though it's not foolproof; I still had to drill and insert a paperclip into the leg of the owlbear I recently completed to keep it from drooping). Primer-wise, I can confirm that Badger Stynylrez works well. It's polyurethane based, so it dries quickly and smoothly, and you can hand-brush it on if you don't have an airbrush. I recommend using it through an airbrush if you can, though, to take advantage of Badger's black-grey-white 3-pack for zenithal priming (a.k.a. The Best Priming Method).
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Feb 22, 2018 16:57
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