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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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Bina posted:If it is salt, would it hurt the plant? I use filtered water to water my plants. (Brita filtered) Depends on that plant. If you filter it, then it's probably not salt.
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Oct 5, 2014 07:30
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Planet X posted:What can anyone tell me about false aralia? I bought one, and it's just losing leaves like crazy. I have it next to a window with soft light, I keep it misted, no drastic temperature extremes. Any tips? It cost me a fair amount of $ and I'd really like to keep it healthy. Mom had one back in the day and it did fine. I've had 2 false aralias. Both had the same symptoms as yours and died. I moved on. That plant was probably the most finicky plant I've ever tried, along with lucky rabbit's foot ferns.
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Oct 18, 2014 04:12
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gender illusionist posted:So I'm thinking about getting a terrarium which will be living away from natural light so I think it'll need a grow lamp of some kind. Would a standard white LED bulb do the trick, or would I need one with a bit more emission down in the red end of the spectrum? I don't want to use one of those grow lamps you can see on ebay; they are ugly as hell. They make grow bulbs, you know. All different kinds and sizes are available, so you can find one to fit whatever fixture you desire. The most common grow bulbs are fluorescent tubes, but there are CFLs, LEDs and even some incandescents with special coating filters. As for the color, that depends on what you're going to plant in that terrarium. Different plants at different stages of growth and propagation like different wavelengths of light. Or you could just get a full spectrum grow bulb and be lazy. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Nov 16, 2014 |
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Nov 16, 2014 19:12
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Shame Boner posted:I need forearm-length gloves since my arms and hands break out in hives if I even think of pruning some of my perennials, especially azalea. As far as I can tell, there is no such thing as a men's rose gardening glove. Are there any good stand-ins? Check out welding gloves. If you have short forearms, you might even find some that will reach to your elbow. Hell, I use insulated welding gloves as oven mitts.
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Dec 8, 2014 06:32
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stubblyhead posted:Unrelated question--what controls when bulbs and the like start sprouting? We had about 10 days of sub-freezing weather around Thanksgiving or so, and it's been much milder since then. I've noticed a ton of stuff starting to pop up in my garden beds. I haven't lived here a whole year yet so I'm not sure if this is normal or if they think it's spring already. Are there crazy things that start growing this early, or is this all going to die again if it gets cold again or fails to get warmer when they expect it to? For most, bulbs and such, it's temperature. That's how some growers will "force" spring blooming bulbs simply by bringing them into room temperature. So if your weather is wonky and you get cold weather early followed by mild temperatures, they might think "it's Spring!" and start growing early. Don't worry, they will go back to sleep and wait until warmer temperatures. The same thing would happen if there's a normal start to spring followed by a cold snap a few weeks in. Then there's weirdo bulbs like voodoo lilies that will bloom without warmth, dirt, or even light. Somehow, they just know it's the time of year to bloom.
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Dec 31, 2014 02:54
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ghetto wormhole posted:Just mist the roots or drop a couple ice cubes on them once a week. Did the plant get cold when you were bringing it home by chance? Might be why the petals fell off. You can get fertilizer to use if you want it to grow faster but they generally take months or years to rebloom. What he said. Orchids typically do better the less you water them. Just make sure it's in a sunny window and barely water the thing.
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Jan 4, 2015 04:02
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Nettle Soup posted:Ah, it can go next to my amaryllis and tiny Christmas Cactus and be ignored then, awesome! I'd heard they were hard to keep alive and was worried it was going to need ceremonial chanting and blood rituals every other day or something. Don't get us wrong, some orchids are notoriously hard to maintain. That being said, they do make special soil mixes especially for orchids. Their main advantage is that they're extremely free draining, exactly the best environment for orchid roots. If you use a regular soil mix for orchids, then that's just an invitation for root rot.
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Jan 4, 2015 04:41
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Pogo the Clown posted:I think this is correct. If you do a Google image search for "ailanthus altissima in winter" you'll find several images that match your photo with the dry clumps of seeds at the ends of the branches. The only thing that bothers me is that I can't find a single picture anywhere of the seeds outside of their paper wing thingy. That reminds me of another common houseplant whose name escapes me. It's very small, but its leaves are very dark and have very prominent veins that were colored pink. When the leaves were broken, they smelled very prominently of lettuce?
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Jan 15, 2015 08:05
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Pogo the Clown posted:Fittonia albivenis? Bingo, that was it. Thanks!
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Jan 15, 2015 21:00
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upsciLLion posted:hobbit jade cuttings You mean Gollum jade?
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Mar 1, 2015 00:57
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kedo posted:Question about repotting – how do I know when it's time to repot a seedling? One of my Meyer lemon seedlings is getting pretty big and I've noticed he's sent a first little root tendril down through one of the water drainage holes in his solo cup. The general rule for repotting for plants of all sizes is to do it when the root ball just starts to become root bound. By "root bound" I mean that the roots completely cover the outside of the root ball. You can see this when you pull up the whole plant out of its pot. Google images has some great examples of root bound plants. You can also usually tell if a plant is root bound when it has roots at the surface. Repotting too early comes with few issues. First, if a plant isn't even close to root bound yet, then the dirt will fall away when you pull the plant out of the pot. Aside from the mess this can make, that can be a problem for plants whose roots break easily. Then there's the issue of fanning out roots when you repot what's now essentially a bare root plant. As for "drowning", that's mostly a problem if the new giant pot has no drainage, which a lot of the huge decorative glazed ceramic ones (think bigger than 12") don't have. With tiny plants in giant pots like that, if the plant can't suck up the water fast enough, then all the water will settle to the bottom. That's when you notice that the top is dry, but in fact the bottom of the pot is full of water, you can't see it and the plant just can't reach it. So you go to water it... The water level rises and you drown the plant. If the plant isn't a bog plant, then it's boned.
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Mar 24, 2015 01:23
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If you have an office with fluorescent light, you could try a ZZ plant too. About the only way to kill one of those is to water it too much. They're called "Eternity Plants" for a reason.
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Mar 30, 2015 04:18
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If there's any plant I'd expect to ask "feed me, Seymour", it would be this plant.
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Apr 22, 2015 03:33
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Skizzzer posted:So cool. Now to figure out where to get one... FYI don't expect it to look like that all the time. That looks like special lighting and camera tricks.
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Apr 23, 2015 20:15
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kedo posted:Can anyone help me identify what type of oak this is? That's one of the oaks with broad, shallowly-lobed leaves. It might also be a swamp oak, but their leaves tend not to get as pointy. What did the acorns look like?
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May 4, 2015 20:05
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ghetto wormhole posted:That's what I thought. Thirding peony. Speaking of peonies, don't be alarmed when you find the flower buds covered in ants. Peonies actually need ants to eat the sticky stuff off of their sepals that is holding their buds shut. My mom has a story she loves to tell about a friend of hers that always gassed the hell out of her peonies, then never got any flowers. Last peony fact: peony flowers are too big for their stalks and act like big cups. The next time it rains after they bloom, expect to see your peonies bent over to the ground. They do make special wire support rings to help hold up peonies. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:44 on May 15, 2015 |
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May 15, 2015 16:41
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EagerSleeper posted:^^^^What is this madness you speak of? Check out PlantFiles at https://davesgarden.com. While they don't sell plants directly, it's a huge plant database where you can find the plants you want, then if you're lucky, a seller will have it for sale with a link to their website where you can buy it. Dave's Garden also has user submitted seller ratings too, so you can see if someone is a bad seller. Poke around enough in the seller ratings and you can find specialty growers, like only seeds, bulbs, veggies, fruits, tropicals, succulents, carnivores, etc. That being said, I've bought tons of stuff from Forest Farm and Lazy S Nursery. They both have huge selections, but their pictures suck. I would definitely use Dave's Garden pictures, then cross reference by the genus and species or follow the sellers' links.
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May 16, 2015 20:53
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vonnegutt posted:What's something cool that really likes wet feet? Look into bog plants. Maybe a canna?
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May 19, 2015 01:26
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I want a Kaleidoscope Mayapple. Only problem is that it's so rare, nobody has them for sale! Does anybody know of any nurseries selling it? Mr. Soop posted:Why not American Pitcher Plants? I thought all carnivores were bog plants? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:43 on May 22, 2015 |
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May 22, 2015 21:36
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Communist Pie posted:So I got a pothos back in August, and it has grown really well, it reached down to the bottom of the pot when I planted it, and now (I really should take more cuttings, and fill it out, but I kind of just want to see how big it'll get at this point) Good luck with that. Pothos can easily do 20-30 feet from their pot.
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May 23, 2015 17:34
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Seriously, does anyone know where I can get a Kaleidoscope Mayapple, or at least some ornamental ones?
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May 29, 2015 23:30
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Pogo the Clown posted:I have no idea, but some random Google-ing brought up a few leads: Thanks. I found that first link. I also think I figured out why nobody has it for sale anymore, even though it was patented. If you look at all the pictures for it, the pattern isn't consistent. That probably means that the variegation isn't stable and probably reverts after awhile. Oh well. I was always a fan of the native mayapples that grow wild around here, and that those new hybrids lasted all year. Now I'm looking at a Stinking Hellebore 'Wester Flisk'. I have this very shady spot in my garden that I swear is death row. Nothing grows there no matter how well I amend the soil. I've got some toad lilies, a bleeding heart, a heavenly bamboo, a lungwort barely hanging on and a very leggy oak leaf hydrangea on the sunny edge. So far I've killed a pieris, a couple coral bells and the hosta in the corner there didn't come up this year. Does anyone have any ideas on what will grow there?
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May 30, 2015 03:52
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Marchegiana posted:I've grown Ajuga reptans (bugleweed) in total shade (and I mean total shade- it's in that awkward area under my chimney on the north side of my house) and it just thrives. The 6 plants I started with have spread to a mat covering a 4' by 6' area. My question though is how wet is the area? Hosta should do well in shade, but if the site gets too wet during the dormant season your hosta crowns under the soil will rot. If you've got a wet site you'd probably do well with some ferns. Cimcifuga racemosa (black snakeroot) is also a very good statement plant for a wet shady spot. Native wildflowers are also a good bet, things like trilliums, bloodroot, jack-in-the-pulpit, etc. I've got some bugleweed growing wild in my grass on the back edge of the yard. I didn't plant it and I can't see any neighbors from my place with it. I kind of like it there because grass doesn't grow there too well. That spot is also shady on a steep slope with lots of lovely clay because I had to dig up the posts for a wood fence there that ivy that swallowed and broke. I dug up the ivy roots too. End result, I got crappy dirt along my back fence and I found neighbors I never knew I had. Anyway, I was looking for something taller than a ground cover. It's drier there than wet, but a hosta already died in the back corner in that bed. Then again that might be because of my dog "watering" it.
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Jun 2, 2015 17:05
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foxatee posted:Did I kill this thing? Is there any way to save it? First off, that is a hydrangea, and it looks like its going through some transplant shock. That new growth on the right looks very healthy.
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Jun 20, 2015 00:28
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foxatee posted:So should i pull off the little obviously dead flowers? I have petunias that I do this with. Both plants were mother's day gifts, and I really don't have a green thumb. Yes. For any transplant, you want the plant to focus on new leaf and root growth instead of on reproduction. That's what flowers are really for. Remove those and the plant will put all of its energy into growth instead of doing 2 jobs. Note that if it isn't late enough in the season for the plant to try to flower again, you'll have to keep removing flowers for a few months. That's more of a problem though with plants that flower until frost (roses, etc). kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 18:08
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Marchegiana posted:That's Campsis radicans, or trumpet vine. They are indeed native but people usually don't grow them in gardens because they're highly aggressive and impossible to get rid of once they're established. I've heard there are some less aggressive hybrids but I take that with a grain of salt. Growers also developed a few other colors than red if that's your thing. But yeah, they're extremely aggressive, even for a native. Probably the best advice I ever heard for planting one of those is if you have an isolated telephone pole in your yard with no trees around that it can reach and spread to. cloudy posted:Apologies if this has bethetalked about before. Can you do the nuclear option and replace all the dirt? I did that once with a fungus gnat infestation.
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Jul 7, 2015 22:36
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cloudy posted:I read about sterilizing store-bought potting soil in the oven to avoid this mess again. Anyone done that before? Store bought soil from the big brands comes sterile, assuming it hasn't been punctured and rained on. That being said, I have heard of people "cooking" soil for 10-20 minutes at 250° to sterilize it. I've heard that it works with soils already infested.
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Jul 8, 2015 01:12
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hello fence posted:it gets some direct sunlight (north facing window) and I live in socal. Where in California is the sun in the northern sky? Anyway, when succulents get leggy or droopy, that usually means that they aren't getting enough light. foxatee posted:Hope you don't mind me bothering you again, but I don't know what the hell this plant is that my daughter has been growing for months now. That looks like some type of wildflower. If you really want to have it stand up straight, you could train each stem by using a stake and some string.
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Jul 22, 2015 19:12
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Get the best photo you can, post it here and search around for what it bugs/diseases could be: aphids, scale, mites, etc.
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Jul 23, 2015 22:48
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ghetto wormhole posted:I've never heard of anyone growing one on purpose just because they create a huge mess. Very true. In the old days when people dried clothes outside, you could expect to see purple stains in your clothes from bird poop. These days, it's more bird poop on your car.
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Aug 2, 2015 18:54
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Bozart posted:So a tall tree in my yard is covered with poison ivy, extending up maybe 70 feet. Is there a way to get rid of it without having to cut the tree down? Can I just spray with some kind of herbicide a few times and wait for it to come down? Have you even checked if poison ivy affects you? A lot of people are immune. Also, you're thinking about this a lot harder than you need to. Cut the vines at the ground. Everything up in the tree will die and come down eventually. You may need to keep cutting the new growth over time, but it should die eventually.
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Aug 12, 2015 23:42
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cov-hog posted:Hi thread, does anyone have any experience with Amorphophallus konjac / voodoo lily? I bought two little plants last month. Both plants sent up offshoots, but now the original plants are dying. I'll still probably re-pot all four of them just in case the two dying ones can recover, but does anyone have any tips for their general growth and maintenance? I'm trying to keep them indoors as houseplants because there are so many rabbits here, but I'm not sure if they need more light than that? What size of pot is best relative to the plant size? Does anyone have a good recommendation for a good, rich and well-draining soil for these guys? Can I overdo it with the fertilizer? I have both plants known as voodoo lilies in my yard, along with rabbits. They've never touched my voodoo lilies. The Amorphophallus ones I keep in the shade, while the Dracunulus ones go in full sun. That being said, when I originally bought them, I got them too late in the year to plant them outside. Well, the Amorphophallus one lived up to its name and forced itself in storage, so I potted it. It stank up the house, grew real healthy in the pot with no fertilizer in a sunny window... but it didn't survive the transfer outside. It was a shame too, I got a huge tuber the size of a baseball that cost me $15 for a single one. Personally, I blame him. He was the one that insisted on becoming an indoor plant. For the record, my replacements outside are doing great. They leaf out VERY late in the year (late June/July), so expect to second guess them every year that they didn't survive that winter. They're doing great under my silver maple, in a garden I call "death row" because that loving maple sucks all the water out of the ground. I hate that tree. Last tip: you may have to amend the soil with sand or perlite to make it freer draining. They don't like being soggy. Actually, that tip goes for most bulb/tuber/corm plants. bog pixie posted:Does anyone know, even in general, what kind of plant would look like a fern but have tiny flowers and something like seeds growing underneath each stem instead of spores on the leaves? That almost sounds like a legume. Some of them can look very fern like. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Aug 18, 2015 |
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Aug 18, 2015 16:59
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vanmartin posted:Much appreciated. I've been toying with the idea of introducing red wigglers into the heap. Not sure if it's a good idea though. That's vermicomposting, not regular composting.
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Aug 28, 2015 21:35
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The children will be hybrids, not the parents. You would have to plant the seeds obtained from a successful cross breeding. That new plant's fruit would have the blended features, most likely. Cross breeding doesn't always have the intended results. Sometimes, any seeds produced wouldn't be viable, or that the resulting hybrid will be sterile. That's actually a strategy used sometimes by professional plant breeding companies. If the plant you spent decades developing can't reproduce via its seeds, then that removes one source of potential customers obtaining their own plant outside of your control. Legally, they will have to come to you or a licensed nursery to buy their own vegetative clone, at least until your patent expires. A lot of rose cultivars are like that.
kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Sep 4, 2015 |
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Sep 4, 2015 00:38
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That looks like an orchid.
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Sep 10, 2015 19:28
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MythObstacleIV posted:I have a Cattleya Bactia orchid. It had four blooms that just fell off and the stalk is looking a little brown. What should I do now? Leave it alone or cut it? If cut it, how far down? That's what orchids do: grow a flower stalk, bloom, that stalk dies, falls off and repeat. In other words, you can either cut that part off now and wait for the remainder to fall off later, or just wait for the whole thing to fall off. But like GI said, your orchid looks very healthy. Good work!
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Sep 13, 2015 23:39
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That's some type of succulent, a pretty old one to reach that height.
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Oct 3, 2015 20:40
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kedo posted:A few questions about indoor growing. I would buy some 18" T8 fluorescent fixtures and stick some grow bulbs in them. Little 18 inch ones come with a cord already attached along with the ballast and starter, everything you need you need to drive a grow bulb. As for attaching them, maybe some double sided tape? That should be easy to get off the glass later with a window scraper. Edit: if you really want to get fancy, get an electric timer for them too. Christmas is coming up, so you shouldn't have a hard time finding an outdoor grade one. Make sure to get one with a 3 prong outlet if you need one. Don't forget: you can plug a power strip behind the timer if you need to power several lights. I've done that before with grow lights during the winter when I lived in an apartment. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 21:40
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kedo posted:That seems like it'd work quite well. Thanks for the recommendation! Oh crap, I got it wrong. Most 18 inch under cabinet fixtures take a T8 bulb, not a T5. For fluorescents, the "T" size refers to the diameter of the bulb, where a "T" is equal to 1/8 an inch. You should be able to pick up both the fixture and the bulb at any hardware store, along with the mounting tape and a glass scraper for later. edit: feel free to get longer fixtures if need be. Just make sure that they have cords pre-attached and that they have grow bulbs available for them. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Oct 7, 2015 |
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Oct 7, 2015 22:48
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 08:33 |
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This one is a fungus, not a plant, but it's still cool looking. Devil's Fingers!
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Nov 12, 2015 20:53
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