|
What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
|||
|---|---|---|---|
| Perennials! |
|
142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
|
30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
|
62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
|
171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
|
60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
|
31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
|
183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
|
Waltzing Along posted:Can anyone recommend a good soil pH tester? I bought one from amazon but it didn't work so I sent it back. 90% of the ones on there are the same one from china in one of a few different configurations. Or they cost $100+
|
#
¿
May 17, 2019 12:25
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 18:09 |
|
|
Violets are one of those great/awful plants that, in the space of two inches, go from being the thing I want to grow to a noxious an ineradicable weed.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2019 00:02
|
|
|
I. M. Gei posted:
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2019 01:29
|
|
|
I. M. Gei posted:That’s about what I was thinking, but I wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing a sign of rodent chewing or something. Trees just need time and to take things their own pace. If things go well this summer, you could think about fertilizing next spring, earlier in the spring before it leafs out, but I'd personally give it two years to do its thing-it'll probably shoot up the third year fertilizer or not. It's doing fine now, but spring is easy living-when the hot, dry days of August and September come you will find out how it's really doing. Really the best thing you can do is forget about your new tree until February, except to maybe water it deeply (stick a hose at the base, set it so a stream a little smaller than your little finger is coming out, leave it on for an hour or two)every week or two.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2019 02:25
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Also you may know this but don't water zinnias from above
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2019 04:20
|
|
|
Since there was some zinnia chat, here's some zinnias: The plumbago and roses behind them have gotten way out of control. There's some cool double ones in there, but I can't remember what I actually planted. This is whatever disease they seem to get-anyone know what it actually is?  Volunteers that came up in the backyard in some compost or mulch or something:  My bottlebrush buckeye is really blooming right now too. It's got some little volunteers coming up under it so all my friends are about to get little buckeyes of their own.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 9, 2019 20:57
|
|
|
Plantation grown trees are very good at this too, and the ones that get turned into lumber store carbon in a useful way. Your wood framed house is built out of sequestered carbon.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2019 16:27
|
|
|
Bina posted:
E: just saw the little leaves up by the flower. Definitely not a hyacinth Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 15:17 on Jun 12, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2019 15:14
|
|
|
I’m not 100% sure about hardiness (I’m in 8b and bordering on 9) but agapanthus loves containers and actually loves being rootbound in them. Nice foliage and then cool big tall flowers. There are a few different varieties that bloom slightly different times-you could plant a few in there and see what likes it best. It’s fine in full sun or part shade. Might die back in winter but always comes back for me. That’s a big enough container you could probably plant just about anything in it, at least for a while.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 21, 2019 03:38
|
|
|
Solkanar512 posted:So I was just handed a bunch of rose cuttings, looks to be first or second year growth. I took off what was left of the flowers, cut the bottoms and put them in water for now. I've not had great luck rooting old fashioned roses (also make sure the cuttings are from roses that will actually grow on their own roots, not just grafted onto tougher rootstock) but a friend of mine is great at it and the above is what she does. She also thinks hardened off first yr growth roots best if you can find it that is thick enough, and she always leaves anything she wants to root in water for 24 hrs before sticking it too, then cuts off a fresh end and sticks it in some dirt.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2019 00:42
|
|
|
More useful info on pokeweed in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCSsVvlj6YA
|
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2019 23:17
|
|
|
What weed killer is it? What chemicals are listed on the label?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2019 21:48
|
|
|
My elephant ears got huge and are over 8' tall now. Please feel free to admire them. I think it's super cool that they aren't woody and get that huge. We didn't get a really hard freeze this yr so I never cut them back.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2019 23:25
|
|
|
abelwingnut posted:thanks. i'm not sure i understand what you wrote. are you saying the evening sun variety can produce the multiple, multicolor flowers per stalk, or a combination of all those things? Process/designwise, I would start on the edges, and use them to define the shape of the grass. A little bit of well maintained grass looks better and helps set off the beds around/in it. I'd do something like a U shape of beds around the sides. You have a long skinny space, and that makes a nice long visual axis-the center of the far end of your yard is going to be the focal point from the house, so it might be a good place to put something interesting-A really nice japanese maple, a sculpture, a fountain, a bench, whatever. Something that makes you want to go out there is good. Around the edges (and especially behind that focal point) I'd try and fill in with a nice evergreen hedge/shrub or vine to turn all those fences a nice even dark green. That will really highlight any flowers you might put in the beds between the hedge and the grass. Maybe an arbor of old fashioned climbing roses between the patio and the grass lawn to help define the space-we go under here and now we are in the garden, not on the patio- and it can help frame the view, emphasizing that long axis and focal point at the other end. Annuals are fine, but perennials are really the best. You are in a place where you can grow peonies and I'm jealous, but i think they do take a few years to get going. Most daylillies are bulletproof and there are a million varieties and good perennial summer color. Pretty much anything that grows from a bulb/tuber is usually pretty hardy and will come back year after year and be hard to kill. I'm not familiar with your climate exactly, but there are a zillion kinds of alliums that make giant cool ball shaped flowers year after year. Irises do well here and they have nice foliage even when they aren't flowering. If agapanthus are hardy where you are, they are super awesome and reliable. Get the catalog for White Flower Farm and let your imagination start going crazy. Go to whatever botanical gardens are near you and see what's blooming when and what you like. Most everything will be labelled so it's easy to find out what things are, and the staff are usually very helpful, knowledgeable plant nerds who would love to tell you all about them. I'd start planning and laying out and working up your beds this fall/winter if you can, and then they'll be ready for planting come spring. You don't need to build raised beds or anything (and I wouldn't if you want a nice garden to look at), just lay out where you want beds, kill the grass, maybe turn the soil over with a spade or fork and add some compost or other amendments to lighten/uncompact the soil. Mulch over it and let it chill out all winter. If you really get up some gumption, a brick border or something between grass and bed looks nice and makes mowing a little easier.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 20, 2019 01:10
|
|
|
ReapersTouch posted:Wanting to plant a row of flowering bushes in my back yard for pollinators and my kids to play around. The yard will get full sun and we live in zone 7a, so I'm thinking of butterfly bushes, lilac, camellia, and spirea. Camellias japonica is possibly my favorite shrub and very nice but slow growing and usually needs some shade to get going. Not sure I’ve noticed pollinators on them really, but they bloom in winter here. Camellia sasanqua are faster growing, and the bees definitely love them and they can take more sun. They bloom in the fall. Both need fairly acidic soil like azaleas and like to be planted a little high. They will not tolerate poor drainage and are probably going to need pretty regular water their first summer or two especially if they’re in the sun. Not sure about winter hardiness where you are, but my aunt used to grow them in central Virginia. In general sasanquas are much more hardy and vigorous than japonicas. Pollinators definitely like blueberries, and they can make a nice shrub. Flowers in spring, nice red foliage in fall, and delicious berries in early summer. If you can grow azaleas in your area, pollinators love them too. Native ones especially, but all make a lot of nectar. They and blueberries also require acidic soil as well (see a trend here? I live in a swamp made of tannic/acidic live oak leaves). Abelia also is always covered in butterflies and blooms all summer-mix it in with spirea and blueberries and you get white flowers for months Butterflies and bees love zinnias. Super easy to grow annuals-just scratch up some bare dirt and throw some seeds on top, scratch the dirt again and water for a week or so. My phlox and plumbago also always have butterflies on them, and phlox is perennial. Plumbago is perennial here but barely and doubt it would be much north of here. Best thing for pollinators (and just gardening in general imo) is to try and always have something blooming throughout the growing season. Drive around the old part of town at different times of the year and see what’s blooming. Nobody gardens like people used to, so you can be guaranteed whatever is growing there is very happy in your area, and can tolerate being completely ignored.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 28, 2019 23:56
|
|
|
If the flowers smell like heaven, it’s a gardenia. It sure looks like one. They are a bit finicky to grow-I’ve never heard of them being grown indoors, but they can be grown outside here, so that my be why nobody grows them indoors here. Are there tiny black bugs on it? They can get thrip problems pretty bad that make the flowers yellow very quickly and there is a nutrient deficiency I can’t remember that they are prone to that might be causing the yellowing/blackening leaves. A little bit of a complete fertilizer like miracle grow might help. They don’t like to stay super wet either. I dunno what your watering schedule looks like for it, but let the soil dry out a bit between waterings. They are evergreen, but they do also just drop leaves naturally throughout the year.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2019 01:28
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Is it feasible to mulch it all up and scatter it across the whole garden? Or create a pile or two? I generate a reasonable amount of wood shavings and paper shredding so I can seed an initial compost with a bunch of carbon but again it wouldn't be something I could be regularly futzing with. Last time I tried that on a smaller scale it resulted in something of a sad mess. Wood shavings take a frustratingly and surprisingly long time to rot and tie up a lot of nitrogen while they do. I wouldn't put them in compost and would burn them instead.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 30, 2019 13:51
|
|
|
At least you know the greenhouse works! I would feel so satisfied and accomplished after cleaning all that out.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2019 14:56
|
|
|
I have found that the roots on cuttings rooted in water are very delicate and need to be handled carefully. Once you move it to soil, I’d give it a while before you added fertilizer. Let it spend a good while getting comfortable and growing roots before you start pushing top growth. Figs are pretty tough and easy to root usually, so it’ll probably be fine.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 6, 2019 00:05
|
|
|
Oil of Paris posted:In good news however I managed to finally get a specimen I have coveted for a long time: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Franklinia And yeah, gently caress deer and beavers. Nothing like planting some nice cypresses along a pond and coming back the next morning to find a dozen perfectly clipped off trunks. Or trying to plant mast trees for the deer to eat the acorns from in 20 years and having the deer just eat every leaf off of them. I AM TRYING TO HELP YOU!
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2019 16:41
|
|
|
Lead out in cuffs posted:Bt. This is exactly what Bt is best for. Coyotes do an okay job on fawns (but unfortunately a much better job on turkey poults), Cronic Wasting Disease is only a state or two away and might pick up the slack? Convincing hunters to shoot more does too instead of just waiting around for that big trophy buck would help too.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 15, 2019 17:36
|
|
|
Yeah dig a big WIDE hole and then add enough stuff (compost, ground pine bark, maybe some sand, whatever) to your native dirt to make it a bit of a mound and that's prolly your best bet. Let it settle and rot for a few months or maybe a year before you plant. Definitely plant it high like an azalea or camellia (Franklinia's actually in the camellia family!), not low. The best time to dig holes for trees you want to plant in December is February. If you can make sort of a berm at the base of the mound to hold water that makes watering easier. If you have a hardpan down under that clay, make sure you dig through it so it can drain. Mulch the hell out of it with pine bark. I've had good luck working ground/rotted pine bark (my Lowe's sells it as 'Soil Conditioner') into clay, but starting with good bottomland dirt would obviously be easier/better. It's amazing how much better my bottomland swamp yard looks with half the effort vs a friend that lives in sandy clay a few miles away. poo poo just wants to grow here and he has to make it grow there, but it's worth making things grow.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 16, 2019 03:44
|
|
|
Organza Quiz posted:Wait what? People absolutely grow truffles commercially, there are truffle farms in the south-west of my state. You have to find the right conditions and hope for the best but it's definitely done. https://gardenandgun.com/articles/harvest-georgia-pecan-truffles/
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2019 14:28
|
|
|
bird with big dick posted:Any treeborists able to identify this tree? I'm guessing Austrian Pine based on it being one of the recommended types of trees to be planted in this area based on soil and climate (northern nevada, full sun, clayey soil) and whatnot but it's mostly just a guess. I think the needles are in clumps of 2 but that's based off the photos, not an in person examination.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2019 17:59
|
|
|
Oil of Paris posted:Perennial Pals ftw
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2019 15:54
|
|
|
Suspect Bucket posted:Started a little project to sprout some red oaks from acorns. I collected some good seed stock from the local park, got them in the fridge now. Hope I get something viable. Anyone ever done this? It seems simple enough. Just need to save some milk jugs for pots.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2019 18:28
|
|
|
I've never grown edible ginger, but I grow a bunch of ornamental gingers here in 8b/9a. Very easy to propogate from tubers, or sometimes they start growing baby plants on spent flowers (there is a name for this but I can't remember it). They like some shade, but otherwise are pretty bulletproof. They go bananas in August/September when everything else is too hot and tired to grow and then die back with a frost but come back every year. There a guy out in the country (where it is colder) I know who grows turmeric and ginger for a local health food store. Gingerz:   
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2019 01:42
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Just a quick check before I cut off the wrong thing, cut the smallest stems on this future
|
|
#
¿
Dec 5, 2019 01:06
|
|
|
Senor Tron posted:Camellias look really promising, found a good of articles saying that they grow well here, thanks! Not that familiar with your local climate because I am in the SE US, but camellias usually want some high shade in my experience. They ARE wonderful, but you might look at the much tougher Camellia sassanqua instead of Camellia japonica for your hot and very sunny looking garden. Both like an acidic soil/potting mix. There are some cute, low growing sassanqua varieties I can't think of the name of right now that might be neat. Kumquats are a pretty citrus that can be pruned into a hedge if you want. Rosemary is great too. Old fashioned climbing roses would probably do well climbing on the wall and they aren't fussy at all. 'Clothilde Soupert' is a great one with a great fragrance. Agapanthus is a great easy perennial for warm climates that would look nice in the ground or in a pot. If it were me, I'd pull up all that gravel and plant perennial flowering plants, but I dunno what your rainfall/water situation is. In my imagination all of Australia is always on fire and in a drought-no idea if that's relevant to your area.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 11, 2019 07:19
|
|
|
TofuDiva posted:All of that looks amazing, and I am now really longing to move to a climate like yours. I just dump it in whatever corner/hole in the yard is convenient because I’m very lazy. It usually has a good texture even if it doesn’t have a ton of organic stuff left. Add a little sand and sterilize it and I bet it would be good for starting seeds/rooting cuttings where you don’t want much in the way of nutrients, but do want good water retention. E: which reminds me I forgot to stick any rose cuttings before thanksgiving. Maybe it’s not too late. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Dec 12, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2019 19:57
|
|
|
Bi-la kaifa posted:My bulbs are coming up! It's a little early but I'm in zone 8b so I'm just hoping it stays mild until spring actually comes around. Is there anything I can do if it goes below freezing again?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2020 04:03
|
|
|
Malcolm Turnbeug posted:I'm exploring the idea, if it can be used safely I'm for it, I've just had some bad experiences with roundup so I'll probably pay someone to do it If by ‘used safely’ you mean you’re worried about overspray, you can use the concentrate undiluted as a hack-and-squirt treatment. Cut the lantana off at the ground and immediately spray glyphosate concentrate on the cut stump and it will absorb down into the roots and keep it from coming back. If by ‘used safely’ you mean you’re worried about RoundupCancer, wear gloves and long pants/sleeves and don’t take a bath in it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 25, 2020 18:16
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:"these berries sound delicious, healthy for you and foolproof what could go wrong!" Everything in every seed catalog ever
|
|
#
¿
Jan 27, 2020 17:15
|
|
|
If it’s been in the ground a year and is happy and healthy it should be fine. Early spring (whenever that is in your area-usually when the redbuds start blooming in the eastern US) is a good time to fertilize trees. What you don’t want to do is fertilize with a high nitrogen fertilizer right when you transplant a tree and force it to grow a bunch of leaves that the transplant-shocked roots can’t support. For similar reasons, fertilizing a stressed or weak tree is usually a bad idea.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2020 04:51
|
|
|
Had fun brutally axe murdering a sago palm yesterday. I hate those bastards-possibly the most unfriendly plant I can imagine. Before (a few years ago):  Murder in Progress:  I started with clippers but then found out a very sharp axe was perfect. It was like chopping up a giant turnip or pineapple or something-not woody at all. After:  Not sure what I'm going to do with with that bed. I do need a sort of vertical element there about where the palm was (and it did look nice, just made doing anything in that bed miserable), maybe a camellia or limelight hydrangea that will stay small and add some winter interest or japanese magnolia/maple. Let it be mostly flowers until the tree gets bigger, and then slowly phase out to more shade tolerant bulbs and stuff? I need to divide all the daylillies and agapanthus that are in that bed anyway, so I'll have some of those to spread around, and costco has huge cheap things of gladiolus and acidanthera so I may cover it in those for the time being.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2020 16:07
|
|
|
Hubis posted:Man, my houseplants have been doing SO MUCH better this winter since I repotted them last spring into a custom soil mix. Solkanar512 posted:Yes, these are absolutely stunning cultivars, an incredible accent tree! Harry Potter on Ice posted:This is one of my favorite trees in my yard, stunning most of the year to me. I love those, but I don't know that they'd handle the full blazing sun that spots get 85% of the day in summer. The Bloodgoods and a few other varieties can take all day full sun here, but given the cost of a decent size japanese maples, I'm not sure I want to experiment with one in such a risky spot. I have a little delicate mounding cut-leaf one of some variety in the back that gets some shade and it is happy as a clam though. I wish I could have a whole yard of japanese maples and camellias. I think I've decided to just fill it up with herbaceous perennial flowering bulby things for now and reassess in a few years. That'll give the stump/roots of the palm some time to rot down too, and that stump is exactly where I'd want to put something. I've just realized the power line comes into the house right above that as well, so I may stick with something more shrubby that will only come to the height of the porch or so. I really need to get some planters for the shelves beside my steps and figure out some kind of automatic irrigation for them because I am baaaaaad at remembering to water stuff in pots. Camellias are blooming all over right now and they're maybe my favorite plant. My great-grandfather was really into breeding them, and they are just such handsome damned plants. Might have to make a Camellia Appreciation  post
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2020 19:51
|
|
|
Solkanar512 posted:Make that effort post, that sounds awesome! Yeah I’m def. headed to Costco this week for some bulbs. I don’t think dahlias do well here, but I might try some anyway. I’ve thought about growing a big climbing rose up that corner of the porch, but the termite people don’t like you to have anything growing on the house, which is super lame. I’m on the gulf coast and so summer here is 3 months of 90+ degrees and 80% humidity with a thunderstorm most afternoons, and it never gets below 70-75 at night for a few weeks. The wet and humidity and high nighttime temps are apparently what really fucks with a lot of stuff more than the heat (dahlias being one of them, IIRC), but then tropical stuff loves it so you can grow a fun mix of stuff, but often at opposite seasons from the rest of the country. Growing stuff in containers/raised beds can help some with the drainage and being wet all the time, but it all combines to make the standard gardening advice for most of the country sort of hard to use. My whole back yard is mostly shaded by a huge live oak, and mostly stuff (including Japanese maples) does a little to a lot better back there than in the full sun front. That shady back fence you mentioned is covered in dead stuff since rn we had a freeze, but in the summer it’s 8’ tall elephant ears and gingers. One day I’d like to maybe replace that with camellias that would have more year-round appeal and not leave me looking at a fence for 2 months.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 9, 2020 21:01
|
|
|
Wear gloves and wash your hands etc. because my dad legit got giardia when I was little from playing in the cat poop filled sandbox with me.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2020 01:25
|
|
|
Commercial landscapers have dealt with way worse than some dried up cat poo, so I wouldn’t worry toooo much about it. I remember planting pansies outside some condos at the beach in my week-long career as a commercial flower planter and scooping out a little dirt to make a hole for a plant and just grabbing a huge pile of wet dog poo poo that had gotten tilled into the bed.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 12, 2020 22:47
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 14, 2024 18:09 |
|
|
I know everyone itt has been waiting with bated breath for this post about camellias, so here is a post about camellias. I live in the heart of camellia country on the Gulf Coast, and the japonicas are at peak bloom right now, providing beautiful flowers all winter long. They’re awesome plants and you might even be drinking camellia juice right now! The genus Camellia has a few hundred species, is native to East and SE Asia, and is in the Theaceae family. Of those species, we mostly care about two, Camellia sasanqua and Camellia japonica for the garden, but the seeds of others get pressed into oil for cooking and beauty products etc.  ‘ Ville-de-Nantes’ The most commercially important member of the genus by far is Camellia sinensis, the leaves of which are made into the tea drunk by billions of people around the world every day. Some day I want my own sinensis plant-there is actually a semi-commercial tea farm near me and it would be fun to make my own tea.  ‘Alba plena’ Yeah Yeah yeah genus species whatever. Where do it grow? Anywhere with a relatively mild, moist climate! Most varieties are hardy down to 0 F (zone 7). They love acidic soil, relatively even moisture throughout the year, light shade, and high humidity. They do exceptionally well in much of the SE US, especially in the coastal plain with its milder winters, and are the state flower of Alabama. They also grow quite happily in the milder parts of California and the PNW. They are cultivated in Australia, NZ, the UK, and western Europe (not to mention their native E. Asia) that I know of, and surely more places besides.  (unidentified-I saw it in an older house’s yard on a walk) Alright, what about those two types we care about? Camellia japonica is a slower growing, more shade tolerant (and less sun tolerant) species which produces bigger blooms over a longer time period (several months for most varieties). The flowers are not usually fragrant, and they bloom in winter/spring, usually from mid-late November-mid/late March here.  Unknown japonica in my yard in mid February. This is very much the classic japonica shape-a nice column of dark evergreen leaves going all the way to the ground Camellia sasanqua is faster growing, tolerates more sun, and covers itself every fall in small, slightly fragrant flowers for about 2 weeks in the fall (early November here) It makes a good hedge, and is especially beautiful because as the flowers fade, they drop off individual petals, carpeting the ground underneath.   (I want to hang out with whoever this Old Camellia Guy is) Camellias do not usually come true from seed and tend to mutate frequently, producing a huge array of individual varieties with flowers ranging from white to red/purple, as well as big differences in form and growth rate. Some are big poofy things like this Professor Sargent I used to decorate some charlotte russe  Or this wild looking one:  ‘Sawada’s Mahogany’ Some are just plain flowers, like this exceptionally fast-growing seed grown one a friend gave me:  Some are very regular and formal like these and hide their yellow sexy parts daintily:  ‘Sawada’s Dream’  ‘Purple Dawn’ (I think)  ‘Ave Maria’ Some sit perched on their little leaves, legs akimbo, showing off what they got:  Unknown, found on an old property, maybe ‘Yuletide’  Not everyone has as much to show off  In addition to variety in form and color, japonica flowers can be wildly variegated and marbleized like the ‘Ville-de-Nantes’ up top. Sasanquas tend to be either white or pink (or both). I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a really red one.  ‘Leslie Ann’ (I think. One of my favorite sasanquas, in any case) Camellia blooms are flat bottomed and usually float, and floating some in a bowl of water is a nice, grandmotherly way to display them  Camellia breeding was kind of a popular hobby for a while in the south in the mid-late 20th C, and there’s a bazillion of them. The American Camellia Society maintains a Camellia Encyclopedia of 800+ registered varieties you can look at if you need some pretty flowers in your life: https://www.americancamellias.com/care-culture-resources/camellia-encyclopedia  I’m not sure anyone cares about ornamental gardening anymore like they used to, but camellias were wildly popular in the SE, and require such minimal care that even at the abandoned homes common in the rural South, the camellias are as happy as can be. Their handsome, glossy, dark-green foliage would make them an excellent plant for hedges even if they didn't bloom. BUT WAIT they also bloom for literally 6 months of the year here, making winter every bit as flowery as spring and summer. They're easily propagated by rooting or grafting cuttings, or probably easiest and best, by air layering in spring. The only real downside is that they are a bit slow growing, and so tend to be a bit expensive ($30-50 for a 3 gallon) to buy. They can also be grown in greenhouses and presumably indoors but ikd anything about that. So uh, go grow plant some camellias if you can I guess. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 16:15 on Feb 17, 2020 |
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2020 02:37
|
|