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OK, finally made it all the way through the thread! I have now learned that I don't want Atkins apex seals or gaskets. Guess I bite the bullet and order from Mazdatrix or Pineapple if I need them. That latest FC is certainly a showcase of PO fuckery. I've probably mentioned in other threads that I own 7 RX-7s, 1 SA, 1 S2 and 3 S3 FBs (including two GSL-SEs), one S4 FC and 1 S5 FC. As you might expect, out of those 7 RX-7s, exactly 1 runs (the S5.) I've avoided the FDs, because I don't hate money. Also, I barely fit in the damned things. Somehow, the FBs and FCs have more headroom. I picked up a spare S5 engine several years ago. The dingleberry that had it bought it as a spare for his autocross car, but stored it completely open - intake, exhaust, coolant, everything unplugged. It was at least in a garage. He also didn't dump any MMO or ATF into the chambers, and it was stuck when I got it. I got it unstuck using a tool made from an old starter for the purpose, but, of course, I have compression on only one face of one rotor. Looking inside, the seals are intact, and nothing looks beat up, but the apex seals are stuck in the grooves by carbon and smutz. Do you (or anyone else) have any suggestions for a chemical to dissolve said smutz? ATF doesn't appear to be strong enough. I'd really prefer to get this thing operable without cracking it open, since it's like $1000 just for all the damned soft seals. The plan is to drop this engine in my '79, which lost the oil control o-rings, and thus compression AND all the oil, some years ago. I mean, if it has to come apart, it will, but I'm a cheap bastard (see the part where I don't own an FD. Or even a Turbo II.) The housings on the 12A are probably good, since it was the oil control rings that went, but I've not taken it apart, and it's not really cost-effective to rebuild a 12A. I plan to sell the running FC and one of the GSL-SEs and dump that money into the '79. It's solid, but like a lot of old Japanese stuff, it needs the interior refreshed, and there was a rust issue in the rear quarter under the radio antenna that a PO let leak. Already has the suspension and rear axle from one of the aforementioned GSL-SEs, so has decent brakes and a common wheel bolt pattern. I really want that FrankenRex to live again, since it's literally my first RX-7, and was a bastardized mutt even before I got it (it had an S3 engine in it that I got properly wired up to run, and drove it until it coughed up an apex seal. Then I put in a '80 12A of barely known provenance, and ran that until it died.) I really enjoy reading about your efforts to keep rotaries alive. Kinda inspirational.  Makes me wish I lived closer, except for all that cold wet stuff in the winter (I'm a Texas boy, so that much snow is... evil, or something.)
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Dec 28, 2016 |
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Dec 28, 2016 07:19
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Commodore_64 posted:If you are looking for something for the carbon locked seals, try out http://www.lubecontrol.com/products/lc20-gallon. Dude! That is exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you! I'll let you know how it works.
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Dec 30, 2016 23:18
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MiniFoo posted:Nothing wrong with that. I approve this post. I never stopped to take any pictures the few times mine was in snow, so far.
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Jan 14, 2017 06:24
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I can't decide whether to be thankful or disappointed that all the RX-7 stuff on Croooober is FD junk. Oh, hey, bride seat rails for $32... plus $110 shipping. Ah, well.
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Mar 1, 2017 00:58
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the spyder posted:Sweet mother of god. I finally found a set of Spirit R 17" wheels and they were under 1k! I've had some "knockoff" PIAA racing wheels on my 94 Chaste White that were pretty close (I'm still convinced PIAA just copied them anyways), but I've always wanted a set. With the average selling price around $2800 and going up, they've been low on the priorities list. This means I just need the Recaro seats to have a complete "replica" 2001 FD in LHD. "Oh, I have these rare wheels - I should strip and paint those a non-original color, rather than buying knockoffs or similar wheels and painting those" - idiot PO. also, I'm disappointed that there's no overnight option on Croooober. 
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Mar 1, 2017 19:36
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MiniFoo posted:
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May 17, 2017 07:13
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boxen posted:The issue I see with that around Portland is that you still need to get it through DEQ. How are the emissions on those typically? If everything is working right, no problem. They tend to be high on HCs, typically. Fortunately, my '90 RX-7 has been exempt in TX since 2015, because it seems to be running rich for some reason, despite a fresh O2. A little E85 got it by the last inspection. At some point I'll figure out why the ECU is doing that (no check engine light, just runs a bit rich.)
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May 23, 2017 20:06
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Is there a squee emoticon? 'Cuz I need it for those last two projects.
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Jun 5, 2017 02:49
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Raluek posted:neckbeard Don't care. Still squee. The world needs more 20Bs and rotary pickups.
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Jun 5, 2017 04:02
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Neckbeard is your Well, poo poo. I can't argue with your assessment.
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Jun 6, 2017 18:47
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emote, you loving neckbeard. As a sidenote,
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That generation of Celica is just so cool-looking. My wife had a '78 when I met her, and it was cool enough, but that one is cooler. (Yes, I regret letting hers go, but at the time we were in apartments.)
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Jun 12, 2017 18:18
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:13B in a Celica? Thats like dead boring eaaaaaasy. Seen it a number of times. Please remember that we didn't get near as many Japanese cars here in the US as Oz did. We have to make do with what we had (or, I guess, import them when they're 25 years old.)
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Jun 12, 2017 21:24
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[Need for 20b update intensifies]
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Jun 27, 2017 00:27
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McTinkerson posted:I would kill a man for a FC Mariah Mode 6 kit. Actually, all of their "So 80's it hurts" kits for both the FB & FC really. I need an IMSA/Group C kit for my '79. They're all in Australia, and I'm not. No, I don't want wide fenders, I want fuckin'  ~*bubble flares*~
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Jul 1, 2017 00:07
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That's amazing, and now I want to find a damaged and/or super cheap Panther... edit: <right click> <save image as>
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Jul 13, 2017 22:24
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The descriptions on the corner seals was confusing me. I was thinking "when did Mazda use 1mm Alex seals?", but the next pic pointing out *side seals* cleared it up. Lol at that Maz-ranger throw out bearing. I had one in my '79 RX-7 collapse and lose its balls once.
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Jul 29, 2017 15:51
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BloodBag posted:I thought that was illustrating the shapes in which they crumble and blow out of the exhaust. Well, that's just silly, as we all know the bits just embed themselves in the rotors and subsequently destroy the chrome plating on the rotor housings. Or wedge between the rotor and housing and stop everything dead.
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Jul 31, 2017 22:22
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mekilljoydammit posted:... nooo, I'm actually pretty sure the description on the corners seals is all messed up. If nothing else than because there's 4 corner seals and 3 labels. Yeah, I'm with you. Still confused. Corner seal size should match apex seal thickness, and OEM apex seals come in 2 mm and 3 mm, IIRC.
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Jul 31, 2017 22:24
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Hey, can you help me swap a 13B-REW into my '79? Kidding! (I can't afford a 13B-REW - yet. It's getting an FC 13B first, probably with the FC front crossmember.) edit: I'm also in Texas, a bit of a haul, so you don't have to worry I'll actually ask...
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Aug 21, 2017 22:23
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It does make the project take longer, because you've got to set up shots, and explain stuff, and make it clear, but I would definitely watch rotary tech/project videos. Especially if they're actually tech videos. Think Project Binky. How and why stuff. No voodoo, handwaving, of proprietary-you-can't-see-that stuff.
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Dec 13, 2017 21:37
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McTinkerson posted:I'd be your first channel subscription. There's so much garbage out there in the rotary realm, some proper video information is sorely needed. Yeah, that.
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Dec 13, 2017 21:37
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dreesemonkey posted:I would absolutely watch even though I have no practical reason to learn about rotaries. Give it a shot and don't keep it up if it doesn't give you what you're looking for. That's OK, rotaries have no practical purpose any more. With any luck, you will catch the buck and then need to put one in something silly. I think a rotary Polaris Slingshot would do.
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Dec 19, 2017 23:46
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Yes, but you're assuming people actually even *change* their oil on their daily drivers.
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Dec 20, 2017 21:15
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sharkytm posted:
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Jan 8, 2018 21:28
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come on update...
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I can't wait to hear how someone managed to get that much sludge and junk in the sump of a rotary.
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Feb 5, 2018 20:48
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the spyder posted:Oregon snow days. Sad Rotors in Snow. quote:
Dry sump plate? the spyder posted:Jumping way back. The first part we had made was the shifter relocation. I've hit a major dilemma here. We originally were going to have the "cup" piece machined. Turns out it was going to be ~2k in tooling/material/fixtures. So we modeled it and my buddy had it printed in Acrylic. A few revisions later and we had a working part. The idea was see what 3d printing it in 316 stainless using SLS would cost. My first quote from ProtoLabs is..... drum roll. $1900. drat it. I may just scrap the idea here and use two of the core transmissions to hack together another one like the prototype pictured. I can buy trans for $200 and since I only need 2-4 of these, it's cheaper to buy the trans. Another option is to just make the little cut piece and weld/braze it on to the existing piece in the trans. Could you maybe cast one using your printed parts as molds or masters?
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Mar 2, 2018 17:20
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dreesemonkey posted:I haven't really seen much of his builds but I noticed your place from the video thumbnail. Cool stuff. Oh, wow, third party video evidence that you do, in fact, exist! edit: could you please tell him that those white gauges are in fact rare OEM parts and not aftermarket? Or did he figure that out already? Darchangel fucked around with this message at 00:10 on Mar 13, 2018 |
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Mar 12, 2018 23:52
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the spyder posted:He can be a bit light on details and this is a perfect example- the gauges have aftermarket glow faces. He was going to toss them so I grabbed them. Ah, OK, yeah, that's different. I know he has to edit for time and misses some detail. Don't tell him, but I run him at 1.25 (sometimes 1.5) speed because he talks too slow/much. To be fair, I do that to a lot of these type of videos. So little time, so many vids. the spyder posted:The best part of this are the comments on his videos. Oh, jeeze. Yeah, it doesn't tell you absolute compression, but fine for a basic health check. quote:2) Runner up - The stock bumper is apparently worth $1000, which is great. Because I have like 5 of them. I'm rich! Pfft. Not that bumper - it's no different from the US-spec bumper. Bet they're thinking the '99 JDM-only. quote:3) Scariest - At least Well, the field of '7s is sort of distinctive if you've seen it, I suppose.
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Mar 15, 2018 16:59
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Commodore_64 posted:Yeah, maybe you shot it from a good angle, but I really like the front fender / bumper combo on there. That’s the one that goes with the kit. He decided to go with the repro Rocket Bunny bumper since it has those extensions to the flares molded in, and the repro RE Amemiya he had was poorly made. He added a splitter to the bottom that also improved the look, getting rid of the receding chin.
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Apr 4, 2018 02:21
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the spyder posted:Biiiiiggggg photo dump. And maybe a video if it ever uploads. When you can't find your nuts... quote:Well, that's one way to do it, I suppose. the spyder posted:Can't blame him this time. I bought this wreck a year ago and am just now getting to it. A friend needed the drivers quarter panel- one of only four straight panels on the car. Once I started hacking... bad ideas were formed. I'll update the post RX-Kart!
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May 8, 2018 17:52
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the spyder posted:HA! The chassis is too twisted for that piece of art. Nailed it! 
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May 9, 2018 01:38
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Commodore_64 posted:It's not like solder wicked up in a wire makes a stress concentration, and an automotive environment features massive amounts of vibration. Please don't start that religious war.
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May 9, 2018 17:04
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Tiny bit worn, there.
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Aug 24, 2018 16:31
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Mazda seriously recommends 20w, like 5w-20 or something? Man, I’ve always used nothing but 20w-50 in my rotaries.
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Aug 24, 2018 17:47
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I need to do that to my AE86, as well, since the P.O. spray bombed it aqua, of all things, over the original blue-silver. I’m really trying to not become attached to this thing, as I have a ‘70 Cutlass and the ‘79 RX-7 as my classic project cars already, but it’s really surprising how much like a first gen RX-7 it is underneath. I suppose you could reason that those cover “muscle” and “sportscar”, so the Corolla could cover, I don’t know, “‘80s shitbox”? Follow up with a pickup and a wagon, and I’m good, right? (Hatchback and sedan are covered by the daily drivers.)
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Oct 2, 2018 21:47
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the spyder posted:Aircraft Paint stripper. It's taken several coats, but is worth it IMO compared to sanding through 4 layers of paint. This. Suburban Dad posted:This stuff is awesome, but dear god don't let it touch your skin. But that, too. Long dishwashing gloves are your friend.
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Oct 3, 2018 18:20
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That’s the part I fear and loathe, but is also so satisfying when done. I’ve got a couple chunks to remove in my SA22C. One is going to require drilling spot welds out to remove a unibody piece to get to (inner cowl by the fresh air intake for the HVAC. No idea why it rusted up there.
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Oct 8, 2018 22:59
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the spyder posted:worked on a super rare FD One that runs?
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Nov 1, 2018 20:17
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the spyder posted:Yes. Oh, now I need to know. Let's see. Only 500 '95 FDs in the US, though you didn't specify USDM. Assumed. Oh, hey, there was only one RX-7 sold in Perlie (white) in '94. That's interesting, if irrelevant. CYM was '93 only. Only 57 R2s in '95. Close, but not quite. Aha! '95 Chaste White 5-speed PEP. I like the white ones. Interesting that there are more Montego Blue '95s than any other color, even red.
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Nov 2, 2018 16:42
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I need a bandsaw. ... and a TIG, and a powder-coating kit, and an oven for that, and a bead roller, and a tubing bender, and, and, and, and... And then a lot of practice. That's some nice work.
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Jan 7, 2019 21:20
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