Putrid Grin posted:

Seems that The Impossible Project is realizing that they can get only so far on PR alone, and is shutting down most of its worldwide HQs in order to "concentrate on developing new emulsions and cameras".

I wonder why they have decided to get into the camera business so early in the game, as there is no shortage of working polaroid cameras out there.

Musket posted:

New camera means the possibility of proprietary film. Which means locked into their new system for film an accessories.

ape posted:

I'm really hoping somebody figures out a way to market a cheap adapter for the belair instant back so it can be mounted on less terrible cameras. Some guy on flickr managed to adapt one to a graflok back.

Rastor posted:

Hacking Bulb Mode & Multi Exposure into an Instax Wide

Pukestain Pal posted:

Are those refurbed polaroids that impossible project sell worth a poo poo?

ansel autisms posted:

Hopefully they don't require impossible film (it's garbage)

Spedman posted:

Don't buy polaroid branded film, it's too old these days.

JHVH-1 posted:

There are people on eBay now putting some of these polaroid cameras up at higher prices with buy it now instead of auctions. Those people seem like dicks and I don't think they sell anything. I also saw listings where people put the word hipster in the title of the auction. Maybe I like hipster things sometimes, don't judge me eBay listing. I am old enough to actually remember some of these cameras being used by normal people.

JHVH-1 posted:

What a deal!

Gargladdy posted:

Thanks! It looked too cool to pass up. Only paid $30!


I have yet to snag a good garage sale / thrift store priced polaroid camera that can do manual controls. I'm trying my hardest to hold off getting one on eBay haha.


How the camera is supposed to work normally:
When you press the shutter it will fire and shoot the same image twice on one piece of film. It has a fixed shutter speed (boo) and a fixed focal range of a little under 4 feet (also boo). Since it was made to do one job I guess that's why it's so rigid. The only adjustment you get is aperture (F/11 - F/64) I really want to figure out what the shutter speed is but I haven't found a way to do that yet. (possibly shooting it next to my dslr and comparing the sounds could get me close)

BANME.sh posted:

Do you need to use the cold clip with FP-100c? Does peeling the film too early result in overexposed photos, or underexposed? I can't seem to get images to come out nice using my Colorpack II, but it's only 10C out right now, so that might have something to do with it. Most of my shots come out overexposed

Nevermind, I wasn't letting them develop long enough. I heard FP-100C was self terminating but for some reason I didn't believe it. I let some shots sit for 10 minutes before peeling them, and they came out perfect.

bobmarleysghost posted:

Went to the photo fair, picked up some more expired film, and some kentemere to try out in 35mm.
I also got a polaroid film back for my 500cm, super cheap couldn't pass it up.
Forgot to buy instant film





Next step is to get an actual instant film camera that covers the whole film area.

bobmarleysghost posted:

Thinking about a metal body polaroid land, if it's a good price

8th-snype posted:

bobmarleysghost posted:

Neat, what's your inventory like?

8th-snype posted:

I just used my instax printer to leave a note on the windshield of the Subaru that scratched the hell out of my bumper. Feels good man.

bobmarleysghost posted:

How much for any of the packfilm ones? Also, how much for a pack of film? I'm seeing it online for about $10 in the US, but go to a .ca site and prices jump to $18

Here's some test shots:





https://farm1.staticflickr.com/470/18517526826_1e9bc4f9d2_c.jpg

Pukestain Pal posted:

Anyone try the new generation impossible project products yet?

ape posted:

?

There were some packfilm cameras made for macro/dental stuff that you might be able to repurpose as well. Whitezombi has a few I think.

Edward IV posted:

While I thought about that, it only solves the problem of not locking out the camera. The whole printing process would take as long or probably longer since there is the added step of transferring the images to the phone and then to the printer which is even more cumbersome. Also, the line by line exposure is what ends up taking the most time in the printing process which Fujifilm rates at about 16 seconds. Even if I need to increase the exposure time to properly expose the film (unless there is a reason I shouldn't do that), it should be much less than 16 seconds.


This is kind of what I had in mind but with an Arduino or some micro-controller that drives and controls the screen. Though what's with a collapsible bellows? Does this use optics?

Initially, I wanted to make it like an add-on for an Instax camera but then I realized that there would be no way to make it a compact enough package. Especially if I have to work with the camera's existing optics. That's why I was thinking of placing the screen directly on the film's exposure area like in the SP-1 and described here so the whole package remains compact. I decided on an iPhone 4 screen since replacement screens are pretty cheap these days (about $30 on iFixit) and has roughly the same resolution as the SP-1 though it would be nice to have a screen without a touch-sensing layer and the front face of the phone.

EDIT: I discovered that there is a camera back that uses Instax film for the Lomography Diana F+. While the back costs almost as much as a Mini 8, at least using the back as my film handler will save me the effort of taking apart and repurpose a Mini 8.

I also found a project that's developing a controller board that'll send HDMI video to to various sneak screens including the iPhone 4. Unfortunately, it's still in development and I kind of wanted to have this ready in time for the New York Maker Fair. Maybe I can make a working, non-portable mockup with a larger, high pixel density screen that I can easily drive, such as an iPad screen, and showcase it with my Maker Space group.

Edward IV posted:

https://impossible.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204378648-How-does-the-Instant-Lab-work

I see and that's with optics. (Although that is probably because the Polaroid film is a good deal larger than an iPhone screen) Perhaps that's why Fujifilm went with a line by line printing approach.

Good thing I caught this early enough to cancel my order for the Lomography Instant Back and a Wifi SD card. I'm still apprehensive about spending $80 for the Instant Back that I plan on hacking and modding which can become useless if this proves unfeasible. On the other hand, I'm not sure if trying to hunt for a cheap, used Mini 8 and then tearing it apart for parts is any better.


Fake Edit: I'm an idiot. That quote was talking about the time it takes for the film to develop after it's ejected. No matter since I'd rather get my facts straight before I start throwing money around.

Since I couldn't find a straight answer on their website, what kind of exposure times does the Instant Lab need? A screenshot in this review seems to indicate that Color ISO 680 needs 480 milliseconds of exposure. And the time from exposure to ejection in this video seems pretty quick to me. I'm not sure why everyone has been saying that a less than 16 second print time isn't feasible unless contact printing opens a whole new can of worms?


As for getting an Instax camera instead to augment my SP-1, I am tempted but, given it has a single, fixed, wide-angle lens, it won't be possible for it to capture the same photos as my X-T1 without re-positioning and re-composition. On the other hand, maybe I'm other thinking it and it's unlikely I would run into a situation where I would need to shoot with a narrow field of view that a Mini 8 can't shoot and need to print it out quickly.

Pukestain Pal posted:

I'm pretty sure I read that the new version they have out now is much better and doesn't have the leaving in the light issue anymore.

Edward IV posted:

Essentially though I was only planning on using just the iPhone's screen which will be semi-permanently fixed to the Instax back and have a light tight casing covering everything up. All controls and interaction will be done through a separate micro-computer and screen so the iPhone screen doesn't need to be removed during normal operation. I was also planning on controlling power to the iPhone screen so that it doesn't accidentally turn on and inadvertently expose the film until its commanded to when its time to print so it eliminates the need for a dark slide.

MrBlandAverage posted:

Yeah, this is my experience with FP-100C that's been sitting in the holder for a year.

alkanphel posted:

Ah ok, well I definitely wouldn't be leaving it in there for a year, maybe a few weeks to a month, so it hopefully shouldn't be too bad.

akadajet posted:

I don't know, but there are reports that you can freeze it.
http://figitalrevolution.com/2016/03/01/freezing-fuji-fp-100c-instant-film/

BANME.sh posted:

There's a change.org petition approaching 10,000 signatures to save FP-100C

Chances of Fuji actually giving a crap are about zero, you think?

Geektox posted:

Has impossible gotten better at consistency? I heard a lot of horror stories of like 2/3 of packs having heavy colour casts and poo poo.

Thoogsby posted:

unpacked robinhood posted:

Now that they've killed FP-100 there's no way to shoot old instant cameras right ? Except for impossible film I mean

JHVH-1 posted:

This has got to just be re-branded impossible film...
https://us.polaroidoriginals.com/products/color-instant-film-for-600

Wasn't the original 600 in 10 packs not 8? Plus its almost the same insane price, and they are selling old cameras just like the impossible site does.

Ashex posted:

Total shot in the dark, does anyone with a SX-70 have the ITT Magic Flash? I got one off eBay but it came without the battery cover so I'm not entirely sure which batteries I should connect, if someone could send me a pic of the battery cover that would be awesome.