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G4 Doorbell Pro just hit Early Access / managed to snag one. Description is fuzzy but apparently on Discord a UI employee confirmed that the USB-C port can do data also, so I guess the MO is to put a USB-C <-> PoE/data adapter in the wall somewhere, versus a direct RJ-45 on the device. Not my preference, but I ran a Cat6 up the wall, so I'm ready for it. I used a 802.3af power adapter (PoE In, 24 VDC Out) for the initial install, so this isn't terrible. Now I just have to find a loving wall plate solution that works to clean up the install, it spent the past year exposed to the elements... e: https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-protect-cameras/products/g4-doorbell-pro-ea if you have EA movax fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 7, 2022 |
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Jan 7, 2022 18:36
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blugu64 posted:For what it’s worth I’ve been less then impressed by their current doorbell. Like it works, but I just got a notification that someone is at the door, for someone who was actually at the door on 12/28/2021. They must have been waiting a long time!!! I've been generally happy with my G4; I need to get integration working with my HomeKit + Alexa because I don't have an actual chime (my house always had an intercom system, never a real doorbell, so I had to pull new cable for it). Wi-Fi has been honestly pretty stable but I'd rather have wired when I can. Depending on their cloud for notifications to work properly is a bummer though -- hoping that when I dig into the Homebridge details of it, that's all run locally.
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Jan 8, 2022 19:17
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Scruff McGruff posted:Glad to see the rumors on this were true. I was holding off on buying the current G4 because I really liked the potential for NFC/Biometrics, and the down facing camera/light is pretty good too. Looks like they confirmed it will do wired data with the as-of-yet unreleased USB-C / PoE adapter! I have a junction box, so hoping it can get crammed in there. Hooray, another device off my Wi-Fi (even though it's basically been 100% solid for a year)!
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Jan 10, 2022 22:26
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Dang, are there really no Lutron Caseta dimmers that have a neutral wire connection and a favorite button besides the ELV+ dimmer? Nope, unless you put a Pico somewhere. I have several ELV+ dimmers on circuits / fixtures that do not need them, solely for that button. That's how they get you.
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Jan 11, 2022 01:43
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) dimmers in place of regular dimmers with 3-5 LED bulbs per fixture?
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Gyshall posted:My pointless idea of the night is an app that hooks into home assistant and gives you a total cost of all your smart home poo poo No, see, it cost less because it was a slow addiction / build up of devices… ”49 Lutron devices added” FISHMANPET posted:I'm resisting the urge to Caseta every single switch in the house, but I spent the weekend installing a Caseta switch in the garage to control some lights that are powered off the garage to light up the backyard (had to do quite a bit else to get a neutral to the box) and I slapped that pico remote inside the house and it feels like magic to control that light in the house without running any extra wire. It’s worth it, I have maybe 4 or 5 things that are not Caseta right now and that’s simply because they are better suited with a Maestro. A Caseta’able Maestro would be perfect. Do it, cowards. DO IT.
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Jan 11, 2022 04:17
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DaveSauce posted:Do it you coward. Mine came with almond plates / switches / outlets everywhere that I suspect were original to the house (1984) plus I bought at start of pandemic, so it gave me something to do going around the house and replacing everything while earning Chase points at Home Depot. I went too far though, and did mostly Caseta switches everywhere, Claro wallplates, and then Lutron receptacles + mechanical switches where it made sense... because I liked their 'clunk' more than the Leviton ones, and the Lutron white plastic matched much better with the Claros than Leviton did. I even paid extra (dumb) for black Caseta stuff (mostly remotes) in a few rooms where it made sense... still not as bad as the multi-million dollar homes that I'm sure basically order bespoke runs of Lutron components in any of their 15+ "extra" colors. Lowest hanging fruit by far but I'm far better at electrical things than I am at painting...
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Jan 11, 2022 17:54
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PD-10NXD is the beefier dimmer, still gets toasty though running incandescents...  Bonus thermal puppy: 
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Jan 12, 2022 07:15
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DaveSauce posted:Oh cool, I thought they topped out at 5A load. I'm running either LEDs or CFLs for the vast majority of my lights, but good to know I can get a beefier Caseta if necessary... I have a few places where I'm vaguely concerned about the load, but knowing I can fix it if necessary is a relief. Yep -- this one is "PRO" only but it works fine with regular Caseta system. You just have to be careful of not snapping off too many of the heatsink fins to maintain the power rating... I would never put this in the middle of a gang box if I could help it.
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Jan 12, 2022 19:54
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azurite posted:I wanted a FLIR thermal camera too, but spending $500 minimum for a resolution roughly on par with an early Palm Pilot was a hard sell. I know the story with Hikvision, but eventually I was won over by nosuchthingasethicalconsumption.jpg and bought their thermal camera. I got an H10 and I'm pretty happy with it. The menu is in Chinese, but you can easily find the Celsius/Fahrenheit setting and Google translate everything else. I've been fine just leaving it set to defaults. It doesn't look as sharp as that FLIR, but that might be due to having a crappier algorithm for merging the visible and thermal images. The image is still detailed enough to easily discern objects and their temperatures. I cannot reiterate enough how incredibly lovely the FLIR E8-XT software is. It’s just… loving poo poo. Buggy, clunky, Wi-Fi barely works, and you can hard lock it. The only intelligent people at FLIR (now Teledyne) work on the FPAs and that’s it. Talentless idiots take it from there. I briefly checked to see if a firmware update was available, but then found a product discontinuation notice for the software one would notionally use to see if a firmware update was available. Maybe something called ‘FLIR Thermal Studio’ can do it now, but the website was not super helpful in getting the simple answer. If I get bored enough I’d rip this thing open and get my own FPGA / SoC interface to the FPA and then publish it for the world to see so they don’t have to suffer with the stock firmware.
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Jan 13, 2022 02:50
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blastron posted:I finally got around to replacing all of my light switches with Lutron Caseta dimmers and am trying to figure out how to make them do two things. First, I'd like for them to automatically change their brightness depending on time of day, so that I can have bright light during the day that dims to a lower one at night. Second, I'd like to be able to use my bedroom light like one of those sunrise alarm clocks, turning on at 1% intensity and slowly brightening to 100% over an hour. To my knowledge there is nothing built into either of those that can do what you want. I've wanted to do something similar to some of my Caseta lights, and I think I'll have to end up writing a script and using Homebridge / Home Assistant to execute on it. Re: going to a preset setting, the nicer Caseta dimmers with the middle button (or a Pico remote) can do what you want.
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Jan 14, 2022 05:12
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blastron posted:I didn't buy the switches with the button in the middle because I didn't know what it was for and thus did not want to spend literally twice as much money ($120 vs $60) to have a fancy button. I might have to go back for them, though, since the entire reason I'm doing this is to be able to hit the lights in my bathroom at 3 AM and have them come on at a minimal brightness. And then I'm also going to have to drop a couple hundred bucks on a Raspberry Pi so I can use Home Assistant to do the dimming I want it to. And my router is also out of Ethernet ports. IIRC the Pro Bridge's only difference is that it exposes Telnet for scripting; it's the exact same hardware. I bet you could reflash your non-pro to it, but I haven't really looked into it. You don't need the Pro bridge to use that center button on the more advanced switches -- just need to pony up for it, and it does suck. But hey, an extra $40 to make my girlfriend happy that the bathroom doesn't blind her at night, worth it to me. In general, the system is so stable / trouble-free in nominal operation for me that it's (currently) worth the somewhat lack of flexibility. HA is probably the escape hatch to do more advanced things -- I suspect that the RF traffic isn't encrypted (or if it is, it's very simple) so if you got _really_ into it, a RTL-SDR dongle would probably let you do whatever you wanted after reverse-engineering the protocol and you could effectively have your own hub.
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Jan 14, 2022 07:33
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Less Fat Luke posted:Just lol if you don't keep night-vision goggles next to bed for midnight bathroom runs Home Assistant Piss Bottle Plugin
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Jan 14, 2022 17:41
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xgalaxy posted:I'm going a different direction than all of you and we'll see how it works out hahaha. I have their Netatmo Weather Station and I'm pretty happy with it. Some minor Wi-Fi issues but that could easily be on Ubiquiti's side as well. Batteries last forever in their remote sensor units. They have IMO an artificial limit on the maximum sensors they support, but I made it work.
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Jan 14, 2022 21:32
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I'm trying to find the exact time it happened to look for a spike, what timestamps / timezones did you guys see it at?
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Jan 17, 2022 20:55
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Well the G4 Pro Doorbell PoE adapter is out and naturally OOS. Advisability of putting in-wall? It is all LV but no idea if the USB-C part of is CL2 or CL3 rated. I think I have a junction box I can finagle it into, or else, my old kickbox heater that's being replaced by a ductless system seems to be a fantastic (albeit silly) place to put this. Annoying to run another cable up to the doorbell junction box but hey, what's fishing line for anyways...
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Jan 22, 2022 01:46
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ScooterMcTiny posted:Oh interesting will take a look thanks! Just double check what color the learn button is on your opener; they use that as an easy indicator of which version of the Security+ (lol) protocol it speaks. Might have to get a slightly different model of the wall control depending.
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Jan 29, 2022 19:05
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Hed posted:A few people in the thread seem to have Honeywell Lyric, how do you like them? I have HomeAssistant and plenty of Zwave/Zigbee devices already. If I want window/door sensors and am on the fence about a keypad, does anyone know whether it's possible to integrate them all into HomeAssistant? Is it desirable? Honestly, it’s been better than I expected — the HomeKit automations are actually pretty painless. I haven’t finished setting it up yet (Go/No-Go test, confirming perimeter / zone types / etc), but the basic setup I have right now works great for automations — I went nuts with 5800-series wireless contact sensors everywhere (including places it makes no sense, like upper floor balconies), but they let me do simple automations like clicking on balcony lights after dark when I let the dog out to pee or poop. The 5800C2W module worked well for ingesting the houses existing wiring for a few doors — they just show up as regular zones in the Lyric system, are supervised — pretty clean. It’s 3 stories below the Lyric in my garage. I do have two of the LKP-500 keypads — how would those integrate, out of curiosity? I also have no Z-Wave / Zigbee devices — everything is Ethernet, Wi-Fi, proprietary (Lutron, Honeywell) or BTLE (Eve). My long-term plan (because I over-engineer everything) is to get my Proxmox up and running and do a LXC (I think…) container to run HomeBridge / Home Assistant in. Of course I got caught up in over-building the Proxmox box, so that hasn’t happened yet in the 2 years since I’ve moved in… The one thing I will note is that I ended up moving the Lyric to main Wi-Fi network because I could not get it to play nice on a different VLAN / network. I figured if its the security system… might as well put it on there. Not to be the thread’s Lutron shill, but seriously, that is the *ONLY* HomeKit product I own that works 100% of the time and doesn’t care about being on a different network than everything else. Has anyone tried using two Apple TV’s on the different networks to act as the hub? I’m wondering if I put the one in my Office on the IoT network, and then leave the other one on the main network, and power them up in the right order, if that’ll solve some issues on the back end. My mDNS traffic looks appropriate, but every few months some of the other devices just go tits up and it makes no goddamned sense. movax fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Feb 6, 2022 |
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Feb 6, 2022 19:01
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Usually by the crying. New thread title IMO
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Feb 10, 2022 09:55
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priznat posted:Anyone on Homekit having issues with it not being responsive lately? I'm not sure if it was a recent update or what but now if I ask siri to do something she fails, and when I open the home app everything is "unavailable" until I tap on the icon then it connects and can be controlled. This is both wifi direct connect meross bulbs and the ikea tradfri stuff. It's quite annoying! I'd love to know what tools people use to debug this... Wireshark? I have a mDNS sniffer app on macOS which sometimes shows some of my smart outlets cycling in and out. It's not even only the VLAN'd devices; I suspect some HomeKit FW on devices just sucks poo poo. Maybe I should switch brands and just lean on HomeBridge to get something more stable. My wireless devices are the most guilty of going in and out (UniFi APs), Mysa thermostats (not too often) and ConnectSense In-Wall outlets (starting just being broken about two months ago) are the worst. Netatmo and Lutron though... rock solid.
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Mar 5, 2022 13:06
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Anyone else have solar? I just got my final inspection done, so I can power it up — Enphase-based system, and the Enlighten software seems pretty legit. They measured the width of my roof wrong, so I ended up with only 3 kWh vs. 4 kWh of panels — but they held to the same price/watt since it was their gently caress up. At best, it was always going to be an offsetting thing / I know it’s not actually going to ‘pay off’ in the long run, but I’m a nerd + it’s an infinitesimally small offset to murdering the planet, so I went for it anyways. I think I’d like to align the following devices with peak power periods — hot tub (current no smart controller / some Balboa thing), EV charger (Emporia Smart Charger… which I think I can have triggered off the Vue energy monitor) and heat pump (Mitsubishi). Any easy APIs available to make it happen? I’m still on the fence about paying nearly $300/pc for the Kumo cloud interface (I have 5 units in my house) but if that’s what I need to actually smart-ify my system, I guess I’ll do it.
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Apr 10, 2022 18:10
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TeMpLaR posted:I had great success using some wemos d1 minis on my Mitsubishi mini splits and home assistant ( and esp home). Also have all my solar data via the power wall so what you are talking about is totally possible. I can control all my ACs via hass or Alexa. Cost like $5 each. I did something using the same hardware this guy uses https://chrdavis.github.io/hacking-a-mitsubishi-heat-pump-Part-1/. Highly recommend. PM me if you want more pointers. Here’s my GitHub for the esphome stuff for the ac. https://github.com/bwkraus/esphome/blob/main/bedroomac.yaml Thanks! Will take a look at that... I just did the back-order for them from eComfort (price is ~$180, but they say it'll take until November...) and I'm not sure if the MSZ ceiling mount units are supported, but if that order gets cancelled I'll probably go that route.
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Apr 17, 2022 18:56
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xgalaxy posted:gently caress Lutron Caseta switches. Get Lutron Ra2/Ra3 instead. Can you use RA2/RA3 without being an official installer?
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Apr 20, 2022 00:36
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blastron posted:drat it, that rocker switch with the touch dimmer bar is exactly what I wanted four months ago when I bought all my Caseta switches. Now I have to convince myself not to spend my tax refund on replacing all my light switches again… My beef with the RA2/RA3 stuff is that I’m a doctor with a mansion who can afford to pay a LV installer / lighting dude to come tweak stuff; props / respect to those guys and what they do, I’d just love to have access to the same HW and the ability to install / tweak myself, is all. Caseta gives you some of that, but it is still fairly locked down. I’d generally describe Lutron as a conservative company, but IMO their reputation is well earned / that’s why the protect it… Caseta is the best-performing / least troublesome ‘smart’ home product I have ever used.
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Apr 20, 2022 01:33
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Huh. So… lets talk about selling / replacing / reflashing (lol) all my Caseta switches and going RA. Maybe my next house.
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Apr 20, 2022 06:49
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xgalaxy posted:Again, you don’t have to pay for an installer for RA3. It is self install if you want to do it yourself. You just have to take a test. You get the software to program it and tweak it however you please. Yeah, for me it is the aesthetics — that touch dimmer as an example. They also offer an incredible fuckton of colors (for $$$$) as the kind of people who generally install RA3 have the money to spend on interior design where yes, the specific shade of white used matters and peasants who get the single shade of Lutron gloss white / Claro faceplates need not apply. I think the new RA3 hub is a neat little PoE guy and more or less resembles a smoke detector or access point wherever you put it. Not that the Caseta hub was super ugly / you can literally tuck it anywhere and ClearConnect will get to where you need it, but it is nice. IIRC RA3 also has better shade options. I know the older stuff, from some pics on Reddit I’ve seen, are almost like theatrical stage lighting installations where there are massive control boxes / panels for tons of non-LED lighting in massive mansions / other buildings.
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Apr 20, 2022 17:31
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:For the lock, if you're in the Apple ecosystem, look into the Schlage Encode Plus. You just have to hold your phone or Apple Watch up to it to unlock it. You can create guest codes as well via the Home app, and I believe it has an option to text them when you create it maybe? Are these filtering back in stock anywhere / where are folks watching drops back in stock?
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Apr 26, 2022 21:48
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I got my little M920 up with HA and HB under Proxmox; out of the box, having some ffmpeg errors get thrown by the HB UniFi Protect plug-in; I think it’s not sampling enough frames to figure out the frame rate or something like that. Looking at the source code, I can’t find any trace of how it’s using 2000… from the source it’s either 4000 frames or no option at all. Anyone seen this before?
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May 28, 2022 17:55
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Douchebag posted:What are the recommended DIY security systems here? I don’t want a monthly fee with a 5 year contract because I have to pay off $2K of equipment at 0%. My wife wants that but I think we’d be better served with some blink outdoor cameras and a camera/floodlight setup over my garage. I did AlarmGrid and self installed a Honeywell Lyric + took over the old original wired system. All the sensors show up in HomeKit so I can do brain dead simple automations like “opening den sliding door at night turns on outdoor lights at 50%” when letting the dog out.
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Oct 1, 2022 13:23
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From a quick read, those fans just plug into an outlet and are speed controlled with a knob on them, or something. A fan controller will not work if that’s the case. You probably want the regular Caseta switch, PD5-ANS. That will switch an outlet / load on or off and I’m struggling to think about why that would be banned in this case.
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Oct 4, 2022 21:43
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Macichne Leainig posted:Finally going all in on HomeKit. Turning an old iPad mini 4 into a wall home hub, just set up the circle view doorbell which already seems much more reliable notification wise than my Nest doorbell cam was. I use my ATV as a Home Hub but didn't they / are they not about to remove support for using the iPad as a Hub?
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Oct 16, 2022 00:56
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Also, not to double-post, but I had heat pumps installed in Feb, and was only able to source one of the OEM Kumo cloud adapters and it's pretty lovely. I have the Home Assistant + HomeBridge plugin, but I still find myself using the remote far far more than I do the Kumo interface. I was hoping to use HA or HB as a remote temperature sense for some of the units, but the Kumo's don't even expose the "Sleep" mode interface, which dims the LED and allows you to quickly go to a 2nd preset. Any thoughts on the Sensibo or other such devices? The IR remote seems to expose all functionality, and as far as I can tell, transmits a full state vector on each button push (i.e., if you push temperature up, it also transmits the current vane settings + other information the remote is currently displaying). It seems like this would be the way for me to get the maximum amount of flexibility + control for my units without paying $$$ for the Kumo adapter.
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Oct 16, 2022 01:06
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HA Sonos integration seems pretty solid -- I switched to an Arc + Sub + One setup for my living room. Set up a simple automation to turn on/off night mode based on time of day + day of week to preserve peace with the neighbors... super simple and now I don't have to remember to mess with it! The ability to play custom files on them too is pretty sweet -- the Alexa integration I have setup with my UniFi doorbell seems to lose auth every now and then. I ended up getting the UP-Chimes, but now I can use even more software to solve a problem that was originally solved 50+ years ago with a single 24 V transformer and button -- progress!  my house never had a traditional doorbell, just an intercom at the doorI setup 5x Sensibo Airs also -- far more usable of an app than Kumo, plus Kumo's are OOS. The Homebridge plugin for Kumo worked great to put it in HomeKit, but since they're all out of stock, kind of pointless. Have not found a remote adapter though that captures the full features on the IR remotes though (vane positions, I-eye, etc etc) nor does Sensibo seem to expose a generic IR interface to customize it... oh well.
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Dec 24, 2022 23:57
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Tricky Ed posted:Turns out I'm in the market for a new garage door opener. I plan to eventually run my own controller for Smart Things but currently don't have anything set up, and I need whatever solution we get to be really easy to use. I'm reasonably willing to troubleshoot but other people in the house are not. I've had a Tailwind since buying my place and it's great. Now supports HomeKit as well, the main person / owner of that company is an engineer and it shows in the quality of engineering + level of responsiveness on the forums. It has a physical magnetic sensor you bolt onto the door, which is quite nice -- I have since spliced that sensor to feed both my home security system (via 5800C2W -> Lyric) and let the Tailwind do its thing. Shows up great in CarPlay, all the fun stuff. The one thing I would like to do is turn the garage opener lights into a Caseta-controllable thing -- my garage lighting situation is weird and the opener is a key portion of it. Maybe I can find a 120V coil driven relay, have a Caseta switch drive that, and then run the dry contacts to the existing opener keypad's 'light' button and pile that in a junction box...
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Jan 3, 2023 20:58
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I think this thread was the one that mentioned the Schalge Encode Plus was available on build.com in some variants (Camelot) -- any ideas if the other versions listed as 6-9 weeks on build.com are a 'true' estimate (i..e, order, and just wait your turn?) Looks like Level answered with the Lock+ -- seems like it's trivially pickable (not sure how the Encode fares) but for residential, I think the bar is pretty low / you need additional measures anyways. Anyone tried the Lock+?
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Jan 9, 2023 05:35
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Was looking into how to replace the cylinder on a Level Lock+ and realized that my front door is currently configured as what I have learned is a storeroom lock -- it cannot be left 'unlocked' and you have to use a key to enter at all times. Sometimes when I'm running stuff down to and from the garage, I'll leave a key in there for convenience' sake and... I have left my keys hanging in that door more often than I would care to admit. As a result though, we don't use the deadbolt as much as we probably should... I take it virtually every smart deadbolt is configured as a regular entry lock, and is software configurable to some kind of auto-lock time, emulating the storeroom function? Likely w/ HomeKit / Home Assistant, I can setup some automations to switch from a 30s auto-lock time to 'stay open for a few hours because I'm doing poo poo'? There's no way to just have it "emulate" the storeroom function since these are smart deadbolts, not a small actuator in the lock mechanism? Assuming that, I'm reading through the video comments on LPL's pwning of the Level Lock... don't care about the warranty, I'm interested in replacing that cylinder with something that has at least some resilience against basic raking / bump keying. Anyone done something like that before? e: I fully realize that someone determined will just kick down my door / most B&Es aren't lock-picking, but as an engineer this just bothers me and seems like replacing a lock cylinder / loving around with it might be fun. Also, still can't get the Encode Plus + I like the total lack of keypad... e2: lol, OK, I've got a mortise lock. This will be more work than expected... movax fucked around with this message at 07:20 on Jan 17, 2023 |
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Jan 17, 2023 05:52
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stevewm posted:In its stock form, the device is supported in Home Assistant via a community maintained integration. But that integration relies on Emporia's cloud service to get readings. Being a ESP32 based device, it can be flashed with a ESPHome based firmware that turns it into a completely local device that works natively inside Home Assistant. Flashing does require knowledge of flashing ESP devices and a bit of soldering however. Do you miss having the Emporia app / seeing it on your phone? I have three Vues and haven't set up HA integration (yet), but in the ~2-3 years I've had them, I can't complain too much about the ability to export my data + the app has been pretty good. However, the stock SW seems to have trouble understanding my solar setup / I'm not 100% on how to configure it correctly. My solar backfeeds through my rear subpanel, which is shared with my hot tub, and I'm not sure if I need to flip both the main panel Emporia to think it has solar as well. wolrah posted:
Caseta is without a doubt the absolute best ecosystem in the wider world of IoT/smarthome/etc type poo poo. The hub is 100% worth it and I respect / applaud their decision to commit to a 315 MHz-based technology and require the hub -- it is the best engineering solution IMO. 315 MHz as a band is legislated for non-continuous transmissions (like car keyfobs), overall interference is low, penetration is great and power consumption is nil. Now, Lutron being Lutron, there are some technically possible configurations that are not available via their system (ex: I want to share a single motion sensor and have it do different timeouts for different lights in my bathroom -- technically possible, difficult to do with their ecosystem) and I'd kill someone for a version of a Maestro motion-dimmer that was Caseta compatible (I want it to go to a different brightness based on time-of-day), but the switches are always switches if the Internet goes down / disappears. Though, I want to say that when you configure a Pico remote... it's peer-to-peer, but I actually don't know if you need an operating hub to route traffic from a Pico to the requisite switch. Seeing as you can program a Pico to do a bunch of stuff, I imagine it has too... or maybe the Pico stores the IDs of the switches it controls and just broadcasts them in sequence. priznat posted:I was thinking the panel just having metal flanges so you could mount the clamps and run the clamp sense wires out the back to keep it out of the panel, but that would probably get into all sorts of regulation. There would have to be some kind of standard sense clamp as well so one company doesn't have their special form factor that no one else can copy, like those fancy panels. Something non-proprietary and simple and allowed upgrading! When I get bored and replace my panel with a brand-new 52-space QO, I was thinking of epoxying the clamps in place or something to clean up the wiring. I got a PVC junction box and placed the Emporia unit itself in there, and then routed all the clamp connections through conduit to it... tried to keep the panel clean, only partially succesful. Alternately, I've also entertained shortening the leads of the clamps to the exact length required and re-crimping / re-soldering, but... effort. movax fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Feb 16, 2023 |
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Feb 16, 2023 20:24
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toplitzin posted:And then the 2x Emporia reflash and install. I do like using their app to check on stuff on my phone, and I have their EVSE, so I'll have to keep the app around anyways to some degree. I've been struggling in getting it to work properly in net metering my solar though -- I think it's simple, the UI + phrasing just sucks and I have a nested panel situation going on. With the reflash, is there a HA app / something to equate the functionality the app used to have?
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May 15, 2023 19:42
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toplitzin posted:Don't know, haven't installed it yet, but it integrates with the Energy Panel in HA based on the last time it came up. Ahhh I knew I had posted about it before, thought it might have been in the Home Wiring thread. Thanks for digging it up.
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May 15, 2023 22:09
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I fell behind on thread but read the past 2-3 pages to see if it had come up… Picked up a bunch of the latest model Eve Energy + new In-Wall Outlet that are all Thread / Matter compatible. Big improvement over the ConnectSense In-Wall outlets I used to have… went no response fairly frequently and I ended up never really taking advantage of them since I could never connect to them. Eve outlets are pigtailed, come with a nice Claro-clone screw less wall plate, and you can disassemble them really easily also (I got curious… I have a use case for monitor-only outlets that I do not want the chance of turning off). The Eve app gives me some insights into the Thread network — not convinced I’m fully setup there, since I think the Apple TVs show up as “ghost” routers, but nothing is disconnecting. All of my ATVs live on my main LAN, so as of right now, I’m trusting the ATV to be a good gateway. Ridiculously fast to set up… maybe under 5 minutes per outlet? Scan QR and it’s done, no need to put my iPhone on the IoT WiFi and all that. As a bonus, it’s been an excuse to clean up all my outlets and kill backstabs, plus they are now neatly pigtailed and WAGO’d!
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Mar 17, 2024 21:57
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| # ¿ May 11, 2024 22:48 |
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I have a corner of my garage that seems to be at the edge of my Caseta range... I have a plug-in dimmer acting as an extender right now, but not sure I can get it close enough to fix the issue. The Caseta readme says: quote:A Caséta Repeater or Plug-in Lamp dimmer will be needed to extend the range of the system to accommodate those devices. There are 2 products that you can add to your Caséta system to extend the range of the RF signal: Does this mean you can only have one of the two, or that you can have both but only one of each will act as an extender?
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Mar 24, 2024 19:22
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