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Bad Munki posted:I got the new drive, installed it, installed a hot fresh copy of windows on it, and moved all my files over. Everything's working great, pretty sweet, except I can't remove the old HDD? Because of boot bullshit? During boot, like toward the end, it briefly asks which one I want to boot from (before defaulting to the new one after 3 seconds), and disconnecting the old drive creates a (very early) boot error. How do I fix this thing so I can just yank the old drive? Windows will put its bootloader where it feels like, and it probably felt like keeping it on your old drive. To fix this I've used Easy BCD, but I'm sure there are other utilities out there which will do the same thing. Basically you just need to put the Windows boot configuration on the new drive and then you'll be fine. https://neosmart.net/EasyBCD/
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Dec 12, 2021 05:50
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Artelier posted:Hey guys, what tools do you use to diagnose a system? Something is showing its age/failling, but I'm not sure what. The only symptom I have so far is when I play Horizon Zero Dawn, it suddenly took a long time to load today, and sometimes when I am traveling at high speeds it needs to reload (booted to the load screen) before continuing on - performance once everything is loaded is exactly how it was before though. Everything else in terms of programs seems fine...so far. But I closed HZD and haven't played other games, just in case. Is the game installed on an SSD or HDD? Is it running through Steam or was it installed some other way?
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Dec 13, 2021 02:30
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Artelier posted:It's on a relatively new SSD (maybe half a year?), installed via Steam. Have you validated the game files in Steam? If not, that's where I'd start. Also I'd try another game or two and see if they behave normally.
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Dec 13, 2021 02:37
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Shyrka posted:If I'm getting a new computer with 2400 mhz ram, is it worth plugging in any of my 2133 mhz ram from the old computer or will the lower speed eliminate any gains from having more memory? Generally-speaking you want matched RAM, with some systems really needing it more than others. Mixing different speeds can work, but you would be sacrificing some performance and potentially reducing stability.
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Dec 31, 2021 08:34
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Shifty Pony posted:Dual-headed KVMs capable of handling 2x1440@144Hz are a bit slim pickings. Fwiw I use this usb 3.0 switch with integrated 4 port hub and the built in input switching on my monitors to switch between my desktop and my work laptop (using three monitors). Since the monitors will wake and auto-switch when they detect an active input it is as easy as pressing the usb-switch button and wiggling the mouse. That should work for you if you have a usb-A port on the laptop. I follow a similar approach but using a Logitech wireless keyboard and mouse which can switch between 3 devices with the push of a button. My keyboard and mouse will use Bluetooth as well as the Logitech Unifying dongle so I perversely also mapped my phone to them, as well.
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Jan 16, 2022 22:56
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Anker seems like they are really trying to position themselves as the quality brand out of China, and all the stuff I've got from them has been good. I own two pairs of Anker Soundcore earbuds, a flashlight, and a robot vacuum that is well-reviewed but I haven't tried out yet. I might have some other Anker stuff around but those are what come to mind.
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Jan 19, 2022 05:48
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If you just need Bluetooth then I'd go with a more established brand, and avoid something that is trying to do too much. I've had good results with these: https://www.iogear.com/product/GBU521/ https://www.asus.com/us/Networking-IoT-Servers/Adapters/All-series/USBBT400/ https://www.asus.com/us/Networking-IoT-Servers/Adapters/All-series/USB-BT500/
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Jan 24, 2022 09:44
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Flip Yr Wig posted:I'm finding several sources that tell me that I can get USB 2 to have decent data transfer up to ~16 feet, yet I cannot for the life of me find any A to C cables ~15 feet that seem to be good for much else than charging. I have a device that needs both power and decent data bandwidth that I'd like to put with about 15 feet of cable distance from my computer. Any pointers as to where to get the cable I need, or is it not to be had? That is a a long run for USB, and seems like it would need an active cable. What are you trying to run? Can you accomplish it wirelessly?
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Jan 25, 2022 06:13
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Flip Yr Wig posted:An audio interface, which, yeah, definitely cares about signal loss. I'm certainly open to an active cable, though I don't know much about what kind of signal issues I should expect with that. That's outside the range of my experience, but I would guess would have less latency than, say, Bluetooth. I did a quick search and this page seems to have a decent primer on running USB longer distances (with the caveat it's a store that sells cables): https://www.yourcablestore.com/USB-Cable-Length-Limitations-And-How-To-Break-Them_ep_42-1.html
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Jan 25, 2022 07:11
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I have an x570 but haven't run into any issues with the USB. Have you done the standard USB troubleshooting like try a USB 2.0 port, back versus front port, different cable, etc? Also Lowclock posted:Aren't BIOS updates supposed to fix this? It also might just be a power issue if it's one of those cheap adapters without an external supply.
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Feb 17, 2022 20:26
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Drunk Driver Dad posted:Here is the inside of my pc. Aside from the sweater you ended up with blocking the fan, I'd definitely want another intake fan on the front. Right now it looks like you have more exhaust than intake (even if the front fan was clear) which is going to result in negative pressure and encourage dust build up. Two intake with one exhaust should help push you toward positive pressure, which should make it less of a dust magnet.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:14
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Rinkles posted:And yeah that's a tiny CPU cooler. If you bought a new cooler, you could very likely use it in your new build down line, if that's something you want to bother with now. Might need to buy a new mounting bracket when you upgrade, though (usually around $10). Agreed. A tower cooler blowing back toward the exhaust fan would improve airflow a lot, too. I've gotten to be pretty biased against CPU coolers with that downward fan arrangement, and I've gotten used to gigantic air coolers - mine is the second biggest thing my case next to my GPU.
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Feb 23, 2022 00:32
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Killer_B posted:I'm looking at a solution to transfer old data off of several older hard drives, all of them SATA. Not really looking to clone anything, just transfer. (Even if some of the examples below claim to support cloning) Your links are broken on the first 3 items. I can say in general I've found Orico and Wavlink to make decent products. I personally have an Enermax Ultrabox that I've used as a docking station, and it has been fine in the limited use I've given it.
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Mar 9, 2022 09:20
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MasterBuilder posted:I have 2x16gb 4000mhz Patriot Ram with a 5800x if the price is more or less the same is it better to get another 2x16gb of the same part number or find a 2x16gb 3600mhz (and be closer to 1:1 infinity) of another stick type and sell the other set. I'm not sure how to read what you are trying to do. Is your goal to get to 64GB of RAM total? Or are you talking about replacing working 4000mhz RAM with 3600mhz? Because if it is the latter couldn't you just downclock the existing RAM (and maybe be able to tighten up the timings more)?
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Mar 15, 2022 04:02
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Bad Munki posted:Dismantling an old computer, what do I do with a gtx460 and 8gb of ddr2? I hang onto old GPUs just in case, or for builds I'm going to gift or something. I have GTX 460 around here somewhere, and a GTX 660, as well as an even older 9500 GT and a 9800 GTX that might be dead. Oh, and a 5200 GT PCI card in an old PIII server box. My active cards are a 1060 6GB and a 2070 Super.
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Mar 29, 2022 09:38
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SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:I'm almost positive a modern igpu is stronger than a 460 Which is irrelevant on a lot of, if not most, desktops. If I'm putting a machine together for my dad, for instance, it's going to be a desktop unlikely to have a CPU with integrated graphics, and even the GTX 460 would be more than enough graphical horsepower for anything he's going to do with the machine. And having a spare GPU for testing/backup purposes is handy to have around anyway.
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Mar 30, 2022 05:32
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WhatEvil posted:Maybe this isn't a short question that doesn't deserve its own thread... but I was just looking at the Elgato Stream Deck - a peripheral that costs like $200, that's like a mini-keyboard where the buttons are screens (actually there's just a single TFT screen beneath like 15 transparent buttons) that you can set up custom buttons, have them change contextually based on what apps you're using etc. and it got me thinking. There are a few ways to use an Android phone or tablet as an input device - KDE Connect is what I use to link my phone to my computer, and I can use it as a touchpad or keyboard if I want to. https://kdeconnect.kde.org/
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Apr 2, 2022 05:59
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Kwolok posted:Reseated the motherboard, but for now going to just keep the video card out. Cleared teh CMOS by taking out the battery and leaving it for 30 min. Still not working, guessing motherboard This is probably redundant, but did you press the power button while you had the computer unplugged and battery removed? If not, I'd suggest trying it just to be exhaustive. Another low-probability thing worth trying is to disconnect everything, including front panel USB cables, all hard drives, and any unnecessary cards from the system. I've seen a USB short cause behavior similar to what you describe, although in that case the fans went into full takeoff mode while the system wouldn't post or do anything else. But yeah, probably the motherboard is toast.
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Apr 4, 2022 04:41
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Kwolok posted:So I have to transfer a CPU and CPU cooler from one mother board to another. Basic idea is clean the motherboard with ISO. Propyl and reapply thermal paste. I'm assuming that's the only consideration really right? You mean clean the CPU and cooler, right?
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Apr 7, 2022 07:59
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I'll go against the grain and say I prefer my Anker C200 to the Logitech C920 I had been using. It is also possible the Logitech just suffered from age, but the Anker lets me adjust field of view so it's not just stuck on super wide-angle, and doesn't give me the autofocus problems the Logitech was giving me. I see in reviews the mic on the Anker is sometimes a problem, but I always use an earpiece so whatever my webcams are doing when it comes to mics is not an issue for me.
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Jun 9, 2022 19:13
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Chuu posted:I am trying to run a surge protector off a 2-prong outlet and a metal sprinkler pipe. How dumb of an idea is this? Is the power in your area particularly bad, or your cable modem particularly expensive? Or are you in a lightning-happy area like Arizona? Is surge protection for the modem and coax really that vital? I just checked and I guess that technically my modem and router are protected, because the triple-tap I'm using to plug them in claims to have surge protection, but that's incidental (it's a cheap GE adapter I got mostly because I don't have enough outlets in some rooms). The coax cable is not protected at all. I figure if anything happens to the point the coax is affected then I'll have bigger problems to worry about, and in the unlikely event I have a power surge capable of killing my modem I can just run to Best Buy and replace it. Hell, I still have my old modem to fall back on if need be, although it might crimp my bandwidth. If I was in your situation I'd probably just run the modem off the light socket adapter and not worry about surge protection.
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Jun 20, 2022 08:14
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LRADIKAL posted:Put it in and see if it works! It won't explode! (probably) Monkey's paw curls, and it turns out the PSU is an OEM-branded Gigabyte.
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Jul 2, 2022 22:07
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One advantage to having a range extender is that it will work for anything that has an ethernet port, which can be handy for getting non-wireless devices online or if you do a fresh install and the wireless drivers need to be installed before wifi will work, or just for troubleshooting purposes. I used to run my main desktop off a range extender partly due to this since I dual-boot Windows and Linux and some wireless USB dongles have chipsets that don't play nicely in Linux. I don't use my range extender on a daily basis anymore, but it is a really nice gadget to have available. I keep thinking I should upgrade the one I have on hand since I think it is wireless N and not the fastest thing in the world but it doesn't get used often enough for me to have pulled the trigger on replacing it.
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Jul 2, 2022 23:04
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papa horny michael posted:Ok, thanks. It's a brand new ssd. But the laptop it's in was bought six years ago. I'd probably try reseating the SSD to see if that helps. And running a dual-boot can screw up Windows updates, but it's been a while that I've had it happen. I can't remember if it was happening on Windows 10 or if it was more of a Windows 7 thing, but I had a bunch of Windows updates fail because my Windows install wasn't the primary boot drive. Manually booting to the Windows drive got around that issue, and like I said, it's been a while. I keep my Windows and Linux installs on separate disks, so that might have played a role, too. For the last year or two I don't recall having any issues with Windows updates on my dual-boot machines, so I think it has gotten better.
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Jul 5, 2022 23:34
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papa horny michael posted:Aight. Thanks! Just to amplify on what I said, the main symptom was that updates would get to like 87%, then it would say something went wrong and it would have to undo the update and restart. It didn't actually give me any clue about WHY they were failing, and I don't recall how I figured out that it was the Windows bootloader causing it. I've run dual-boots off a single drive in the past, but it's been some years now - it is generally easier to have discrete drives for each OS.
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Jul 6, 2022 01:21
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fat bossy gerbil posted:This is an odd one but I just put together a new rig with an MSI H610M-G with an i3 12100F and an MSI RX 6600. It will not display to a monitor. It will display to a TV, but both of my monitors will not display the bios and they give a message that says “display not supported”. It has to be some bios setting but the bios are pretty sparse and I’m not sure what setting it could be. Any ideas? I assume you're using HDMI, and you are plugging in to the RX 6600, not the motherboard, right?
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Jul 14, 2022 05:33
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Orac posted:I'm setting up a home office and will also want to set my gaming pc up there too. I'm going to get a 2nd monitor and want to set my work laptop up to them and pretty much not use the laptop screen. Is there a way to do this and use the monitors for my gaming pc too without having to keep switching the cables around between the two? I do this with some frequency, and use HDMI to connect my laptop to the monitor and displayport to connect my desktop. I can switch between inputs on the monitor. For keyboard and mouse I use Logitech wireless sets that can switch between 3 different devices with a button press, and they can connect using a proprietary Logitech Unifying USB dongle or over Bluetooth. It makes my life easier and cuts down on cabling considerably. Any additional input lag from the wireless keyboard and mouse is imperceptible to me, as far as I can tell.
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Jul 19, 2022 19:02
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Gainax posted:I guess this is where this question goes, but, is there no general thread for everything linux? There's a linux questions thread, but, I am talking something more akin to the microsoft windows thread but for Linux talk and conversation. Probably about different Operating systems and utilities and what have you. I didn't see one. Am I missing something? The Linux Questions thread kind of serves this purpose, and is generally pretty friendly.
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Jul 23, 2022 08:15
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teagone posted:Since I've upgraded to 12th gen Intel, my hardware is now compatible with Windows 11. Is there any reason for me to upgrade from Windows 10 to Windows 11 right now? Should I wait for any reason? Do you have a touchscreen? I have Windows 11 on a 2-in-1 laptop I just bought, and it seems well-suited to that. Otherwise it does seem mostly like a skin of Windows 10, although I'd say it reminds me more of ChromeOS than MacOS.
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Jul 28, 2022 06:58
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Rinkles posted:I get slowdowns when mousing over hyperlinks. There's a corresponding CPU spike when this happens. It's not limited to Chrome. I can get similar behavior with the dropdowns in the Windows Explorer address bar. You don't happen to be running off a HDD, do you?
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Jul 31, 2022 06:02
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Rinkles posted:I have a secondary hard disk drive, but OS is on an NVMe. Okay, because what you describe sounds like the kind of thing I've seen failing hard drives cause. Are you running any security software aside from Defender?
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Jul 31, 2022 06:19
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Could Windows be trying to index the drive? 10 hours seems long for a Defender scan on modern machinery, although I haven't had to do that recently. I think I'd be starting with stuff like chkdsk and scannow even with running from an SSD of some sort.
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Jul 31, 2022 06:26
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Hopefully it was a weird one-off with a stalled update or something - with any luck it won't recur.
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Jul 31, 2022 06:50
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loquacius posted:So, I've got two monitors, and as of last night, exactly one of them is all hosed up. Did you try swapping the cables between the monitors? If not I would suggest that as it would help pin things down further.
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Aug 4, 2022 21:53
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Proletarian Mango posted:On my computer I have a 4.5G collection of small files on an SSD connected via SATA and to transfer it to a HDD also connected via SATA will take 15 hours. There could be a few things going on here, including bad SATA of some kind like PP said. One thing - time estimates on file transfers are often wonky as hell. It's possible Windows was just wrong and it would have actually taken 50 minutes or less to transfer to the HDD. I assume the SSD runs normally the rest of the time? Have you optimized the drive lately? How old is the machine you are using, and what operating system is it running? If it's an older machine and set to IDE mode instead of AHCI you can get some weirdness. Is the SSD your boot drive, and if not what is your boot drive?
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Aug 14, 2022 21:44
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Proletarian Mango posted:The SSD is my boot drive and runs normally rest of the time. I haven't optimized the drive but I do have AHCI enabled. I tried the transfer multiple times yesterday and the actual transfer speed of the individual files was really slow so I don't think it was a wonky time estimate by Windows. This morning I double checked everything and didn't change need to change any settings but I restarted my computer and that must've cleared up whatever the issue was because I was able to transfer that same cache directly from the SSD to the HDD in 8 minutes this time. Weird.  It could have been a Windows update that was waiting to complete - they can silently cause all sorts of issues until a reboot. Office updates will do the same or worse, especially Outlook - regular operations will fail without meaningful feedback until you restart. Maybe it was something like that going on.
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Aug 15, 2022 19:21
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Node posted:I'm trying to put an older computer of mine on the network. It isn't near any wired ports, and doesn't have built in wifi, so I got a wireless card. I'm having trouble getting it working. It will either not show up in the device manager, or it will show up with a yellow exclamation point, with various errors: the device does not exist, or windows stopped it from starting because it detected a problem. I have installed the drivers from Fenvi's site (ugh), but it doesn't seem to make a difference. I've tried installing it in both my unobstructed pcie slots and neither of them work. The card appears to be pcie x1, but shouldn't that work in a x4 or x8 slot? Those are the two pcie slots I have available, the combination of a big heatsink, graphics card, and sound card only allow for the two slots I mentioned. Did you hook it up to a USB header? I know Bluetooth often won't function without being hooked to USB power, but maybe it is affecting the whole card?
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Aug 17, 2022 04:51
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Node posted:I didn't. I could try that, although I think my motherboard only has one USB header? Maybe? And its already connected to my front panel USB which I kinda need. Check on that - most mobos have multiple USB headers, sometimes in odd places. Look up the manual for the board if needed.
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Aug 17, 2022 23:53
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Node posted:I figured it out by dumb luck. I thought this might have been some issue with available PCIE lanes (which I know next to nothing about) but I couldn't find anything online. At all. So I went looking through my motherboard's bios and found an option for setting the pcie 4_3 slot (which the card was inserted into at the time) to automatically detect if it was a x1/x2/x4 card, or to manually set it to x4. Changing it from auto to manual immediately fixed it, Windows detected the wifi card and showed it as a network adapter right away. I'm not sure exactly, but it sounds reminiscent of having to manually set my PCIe x16 slot to gen 3 in order to have my 3080 recognized properly. Having it set on auto prevented it from being properly identified as an Nvidia card, but manually setting it to PCIe 3.0 made it work as expected. Glad you got it working!
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Aug 23, 2022 19:52
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PBCrunch posted:I installed Windows 10 on a computer for a friend's small business. Somehow I hosed up and there was a bunch of empty space at the "start" of the SSD. I include a crude diagram of the current layout of the disk below. I'm not 100% up to date on what's out there, but my instinct would be to clone the partitions you want to keep to another SSD, then reformat the target SSD without the empty partition, then clone the partitions you want back to the target SSD. If it was UEFI-empty-Windows then just expanding the Windows partition should be fine, but unless things have changed trying to change the sizes of non-contiguous partitions was always a pain at best, if it was possible at all. Like I said, though, I'm not completely up to date on that. I guess you could copy the UEFI partition to the empty space (setting flags as needed), shrink the new UEFI partition to an appropriate size, delete the old UEFI partition, then expand the Windows partition, but I think you would still want to clone the drive before doing that in case something goes sideways. The one significant wildcard I can think of is whether Bitlocker is enabled on the existing Windows install, but even if it is I'm not sure if it's a big problem.
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Aug 25, 2022 19:55
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