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Get the brass marine battery terminals, they're on the rack with the lead ones but don't suck. They come in clear blister packs of two, don't buy the ones that come individually. They look like this: Autozone typically stocks them, most other places don't, or have lovely ones. For instance some places will sell you two single-packs which are both the same size and therefore won't fit one of the battery posts, since one post is larger than the other. Also get either the right length precrimped cable(s) or just make your own. #4 Flex-a-Prene welding cable from airgas, 3/8 and 5/16 #4 extra heavy duty crimp lugs (Waytek Wire 36566 and 36565, respectively) and a $54 Harbor Freight 8 ton hydraulic crimper are what I use. 3/8 lugs will fit 3/8 and 10mm studs (may need slight clearancing with a file or drill bit), 5/16 will fit 5/16 and 8mm. Ignore the legends on the crimper dies and use the largest set they give you for #4. It's a slightly expensive investment in tooling but at this point I've done like 7-8 vehicles with mine and they're still going strong.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:36
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Yeah, that's all the negative wiring, it's less panic and more "deal with this when you can." As long as it's a negative ground vehicle that is. The thing behind the battery in the picture is an 80s/70s style Nissan ground lug. They loved doing that, the way it works is they strip a 1" long section of the middle of the cable and crimp that goofy thing on, which is supposed to go on a ground screw or stud on the vehicle chassis. The awful bolt-on battery terminal on the negative is a rolling "gently caress my car won't start" causer. I've seen more of those cause issues than I've seen them fix. I refuse to use them for that reason. I'd guess autozone not NAPA because they also sell those lovely bolt on lead color code lugs, and the battery is a duralast, but it appears the battery and the lug are quite different ages so who knows really.
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Nov 26, 2014 19:41
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Holy poo poo, never would have figured a dealer would still have that cable in stock. 
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Nov 27, 2014 16:51
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Street racing is a great thing... to watch other retards do with their cars. Or to do in my old military truck. I got challenged by a garbage truck one day at a stop light. There we were, engines screaming, shifting at redline, slamming gears. Nearly hit the speed limit within a half mile. And I lost 
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Nov 28, 2014 02:37
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Did you fill the radiator until it wouldn't take anymore, though? If you didn't, you are running it low on coolant and risking engine damage.
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Nov 29, 2014 22:03
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Wait, do you mean the key turns and nothing happens, or the key turns and the engine cranks but won't actually start?
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Nov 29, 2014 22:37
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you are both wrong and this is a stupid derail. I want to hear more about what's wrong with the 300zx, though it sounds like the thing southsidesaint mentioned is the starter solenoid and it sounds like an electrical issue not the severe engine damage I was worried about.
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Nov 30, 2014 03:35
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The starting issue really doesn't concern me dude, it has to be fucky wiring. The overheating on the other hand does. Even if it is an excellent rebuild done exactly how it should be, engines really don't like being overheated, that's how you turn a good motor into scrap.
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Dec 1, 2014 18:08
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Slow is Fast posted:My mom helped me push a dead forester into the garage the other week. She bitches about the cars all the time though. She only likes her broken cars on TV, not in the back yard 
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Dec 9, 2014 01:09
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Agreed with all the above. Above all else, MAKE SURE YOUR COOLING SYSTEM WORKS. The battery dying and not being connected (hell we've told you like 19 times how to fix it) is secondary, worst case it nukes another battery that's under warranty when driving around like a dingdong assuming your cooling system is fine because you can keep it from overheating by turning on the heat is the best way there is to turn that possibly-good-rebuild-possibly-redneck-idiot-rebuild engine into a doorstop.
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Dec 18, 2014 02:10
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Sperglord Firecock posted:I honestly don't know if it's a cooling system problem or not, but it doesn't overheat when that fan is on, period. I am going to be perfectly blunt here because you haven't listened or just plain don't understand every other one of the dozen posts saying this. IF YOUR loving INTERIOR HEATING UNIT IS ALL THAT KEEPS YOUR ENGINE COOL YOUR loving ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM IS hosed UP AND YOU ARE GOING TO loving SLAG YOUR MOTOR stop being a doofus and FIX IT PROPERLY instead of doing this. This is like treating cancer with tylenol, it only stops the pain/symptoms and you are going to regret it. I fully expect this to be ignored as well, at which point I shall tell you "haha maybe you should have read this" when your engine seizes and you need a whole new one for a couple thousand dollars instead of a loving cooling system repair.
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Dec 19, 2014 00:44
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It may be, in which case I apologize for some of the abrasiveness of my rant. Either way, it needs to be solved the right way not the wrong way or bad things will eventually happen. Cooling, brakes, and steering are IMO the most important parts of a vehicle - brakes to avoid hitting things, steering to choose what to hit if that fails, cooling to keep your bank account from getting 4 figures lighter rather abruptly. Things that make the car actually GO are more negotiable, since not going just means it stays where it is till you fix it  I learned this the hard way - I ignored a non-operational temp gauge during my post-purchase inspection on one of my vehicles, then drove it 550 miles home. Only realized that it had thrown a belt (is this sounding familiar yet...?) when it ran out of air pressure for the horn+brakes and I noted that the tach and battery voltage (hmm... getting closer) were nonfunctional or minimally functional, after driving on the highway for 25 to 35 miles with absolutely no cooling system functionality. By that point it had fatally wounded my head gaskets, possibly damaged the block and very slightly cracked the heads, and blown half the coolant out the overflow. And that's on a vehicle built to be abused by minimally trained draftees while being shot at. Your engine is nowhere near as tolerant of this kind of abuse. Don't make the same mistake I did. kastein fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Dec 19, 2014 |
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Dec 19, 2014 01:06
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The other entirely logical option here if the engine is not capable of handling boost is to simply put it back to stock. Will still be a fun car, and much less likely to explode than a hillrod-turbocharged setup. Keep the parts you take off when going N/A, then read up on how to turbo an N/A 300zx properly and start collecting parts... while fixing the rest of the PO's hamfuckery.
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Dec 21, 2014 18:42
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I have no idea where to even start but finding the original owner's build thread would probably be rather enlightening. Likely in a depressing way, but better to know than not know.
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Dec 21, 2014 20:17
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Long as the head gaskets aren't explodey and it isn't shagged the gently caress out, that looks worth getting. As noted make sure it's AWD. Subaru head gaskets and timing belt aren't even really that big of a project, but it sure is baptism by fire for a first timer, you will need to take the engine out to do it if you want to stay sane. Plan on buying a couple hundred in tools and a couple hundred in parts for that if you do it.
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Dec 23, 2014 08:18
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Wally Joyner posted:Eagerly awaiting baby's 1st knuckle buster, if you can make it that far. How the hell do you get a knucklebuster reading a vin tag? I seriously doubt the "they never tried to train me in the navy" claim, based on your absolute lack of effort or listening/learning ability showcased so well in this thread. Sell the car while it still moves and buy a 2004 champagne toyota corolla... with an automatic, if you want it to stay driveable for more than a few thousand miles.
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Jan 3, 2015 16:33
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You guys talking about what weather is best for wrenching in this thread is pretty funny really because it doesn't matter if it is 60 degrees and partially sunny and someone's handing him tools, he aint doing dick diddly squat to the car.
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Jan 6, 2015 16:42
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I don't know but I suspect it has something to do with why he's not in the navy anymore. Also: why am I still subscribed to this useless loving piece of poo poo thread started by someone who couldn't pour water out of a boot with instructions on the heel? gently caress. Solved that problem, at least.
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Jan 15, 2015 21:54
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What you say:Sperglord Firecock posted:I dunno if this'll make much sense because I'm about halfway into a bottle of scotch or not, but I'll give it a shot anyways. What you do:  There is a disconnect here. A very large one. ... that's just hail damage on the subframe rails, right? You should make some LED interior lights for this sweet machine.
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Jan 26, 2015 21:10
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slidebite posted:Yeah other than that reddit thread where he posted less than 2 hours ago his intent to be an utterly useless motherfucker who sponges off every single one of his friends nice enough to take pity on him Fixed. Like he is going to do a loving single thing on this car. He is going to be That Guy in his circle of friends who never does a god damned thing and everyone else ends up carrying his rear end through everything. There is one in every group and if you don't know who it is, it is you. I have had to fire people as wrenching buddies because of this. The most extreme example being a guy who asked if we could pull an XJ rear axle at the junkyard next time I was going. That turned into me jacking up the donor, cutting the axle out, dragging it to the side of the row and leaving it there for him to pick up, since he couldn't make it that day. It was still right where I left it two weeks later, he wanted me to bring it to him after that. It got crushed and I stopped doing a drat thing for him.
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Feb 12, 2015 06:33
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