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Hazo posted:Done. Cool survey. Anybody want to tell me what the last snake was? I just put "Colubrid, nonvenomous." vv Screenshot it. I'm too drowsy for a survey
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 13:51 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 15:36 |
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ZarathustraFollower posted:Here is the photo in question (I think) Dog faced water snake. Cerberus rynchops.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2015 11:56 |
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ZarathustraFollower posted:It's not a Cerberus rynchops. Look at the frontal scale, in Cerberus that scale doesn't extend past the post-orbital, and completely lack the parietal scales that are visible on the unknown snake. drat, I didn't look at the head scales. The pattern is spot on for a juvie dog faced though. Haha I'm stumped.
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2015 20:10 |
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beyonder posted:
I think it might be an oddball patterned Natrix maura
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2015 01:54 |
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As long as there's plenty of hiding spots a cage cannot be too big
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2015 05:31 |
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happyflurple posted:Do you just sort of thaw them as usual and then just chuck it in there and keep an eye on it? Been meaning to give our beardie a pinkie for a while as our snakes have progressed to fuzzies. She's seven months or so, too young or? You can feed beardies live pinks or small fuzzies. It's not like they'll fight back and injure the beardie.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2016 11:50 |
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Tashan Dorrsett posted:so my female ball python hasn't eaten in 5 weeks, what should I do? at first I was told that it's a normal thing for them to not be as hungry during the winter/during a shed. But she's losing weight, her shed's over, and I'm getting concerned. at what point do i force feed? 5 weeks is no big deal. Big adults can go for months without eating with no ill effects. Just be patient and don't worry unless she starts losing a lot of weight.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2016 02:31 |
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Desert Bus posted:What would be a good snake for a 45 gallon tall tank, measurements: 36 1/4" tall 12 5/8" deep 23 3/4" wide? Something that won't outgrow it and likes the height. I'm going avoid saying "cornsnake" and instead suggest a Baird's ratsnake. Like most ratsnakes, they enjoy climbing.
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2016 04:18 |
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Handsome Ralph posted:Also, does anyone have any recomendations on where to grab frozen rats online? Any place that humanely kills the rats is preferred. Most of the big rodent companies kill via CO2 suffocation. A quick thump if done correctly is almost surely less painful
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2016 01:21 |
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I use a rodent trebuchet to launch them against a brick wall, humanely killing them and also making outsider art.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2016 23:18 |
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BarqueCat posted:Very nice way to re-enter the thread 😝 Real talk: I'm actually pretty soft hearted and don't like to kill anything, but I approached prekilling as being merciful. Better to be killed instantly than constricted by a snake.
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2016 03:15 |
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Feeding prekilled is of course preferable, but it isn't always possible. Some snakes simply will not eat prekilled.
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2016 22:28 |
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Prekilled is fine and dandy for little pigs like kingsnakes and such, the problem is more about more specialized feeders. I've only had a couple lizard eaters that would take f/t. As for the humid hide, try to make it more cavelike. If it's not opaque, try making a new one that is. If it's already opaque try putting it in a new area or changing the location of the entrance.
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# ¿ Aug 3, 2016 05:49 |
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dog days are over posted:It's literally a cave hide with moist moss in it, you can't see into it except through the entrance hole. Maybe they're just stupid awkward assholes. I'll try moving it around the viv and see if it's positioning putting them off. They had an opaque sandwich box before and they didn't use that, either Ehh, unless they're having lovely sheds I'd just let them figure it out on their own then.
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# ¿ Aug 4, 2016 00:16 |
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I've been half-assed looking for jayakari for about 10 years and only had one opportunity to buy some and it was when I was broke.
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# ¿ Aug 22, 2016 11:16 |
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Anne Whateley posted:Late to the party, but me too. At some point I really want a vegetarian, toothless Dasypeltis. They're very neat snakes, but you need a source for tiny finch or pigeon eggs before you can move up to the more common quail eggs. Dasypeltis arent really that hard. If you get an adult they'll eat quail eggs that you can buy from most Asian markets. Juvies are more challenging but the ones I had took finch eggs that I got for free from the local Petsmarts and small pet shops believe it or not.
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# ¿ Aug 28, 2016 11:30 |
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Tardigrade posted:What are some good substrates for Greek tortoises? I'm looking into building a table, and cypress mulch is recommended. But I live in a third world country and I don't think I could find cypress chips - or worse, I could just be sold pine by people thinking I'm nuts. Anything foolproof? Dirt? Like actual dirt from outside?
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2016 11:47 |
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SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:that's a pretty gecko Absolutely. No such thing as too big of a cage so long as there's plenty of hides and it can find food and water.
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2016 09:32 |
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SSJ_naruto_2003 posted:Is one hide on the hot side and one on the cool side sufficient or should i stick a third one in the middle? I'm still new to snakes, sorry. One on each would probably be fine. I suggest pieces of cork bark or something else that will be low to the substrate. Snakes like hides that they have to cram themselves into as opposed to something very spacious
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# ¿ Oct 15, 2016 13:01 |
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Prince Reggie K posted:http://i.imgur.com/2J9G6fI.jpg It's a baby black rat snake
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 23:12 |
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Prince Reggie K posted:Yeah eastern milksnake seems to be it. Thanks. It's a baby black rat snake, homie.
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# ¿ Oct 18, 2016 00:21 |
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Cless Alvein posted:Since there is a decent crossover of people, anybody know a good place for Scorpions and Tarantulas or am I stuck searching through arachnoboards and what little is on faundaclassified? As much as I'm loathe to admit, AB is a good source for private breeders. You could also check the various arachnid groups on facebook.
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# ¿ Jul 21, 2017 06:11 |
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Cless Alvein posted:Thanks for the advice! I'm like 4 1/2 hours from St. Louis so I'd be better off seeing of Milwaukee has a show going on before Tinley in mid October. If you want to get a female I suggest getting a couple slings instead of paying a lot more for a guaranteed female. You get the added enjoyment of watching them grow (which can be very slow for some species) and any males you end up with can be traded or sent for breeding loans.
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# ¿ Jul 23, 2017 22:11 |
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ShadowHawk posted:A bunch of superworms apparently escaped the food dish and molted in my leopard gecko's cage, now I have 8 beetles running around in there and I'm not sure how to coax them out. Place a potato slice in to attract them... or you could just leave them. They're a bit crunchy but won't hurt your leo if it eats them.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2017 04:30 |
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Agrajag posted:So, after watching some vids from this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zqpzaj1kDbo&t=132s Cless is right a GBB would be the easiest of your list to care for. GBBs are very hardy Ts, but aren't the best for handling as they are pretty skittish.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2017 21:46 |
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Agrajag posted:What would you guys consider a fair price for a GBB? That really depends on the size. A 1" sling will probably be $25 - $35. Larger ones will be much more expensive. I suggest starting with a sling. It's fun to watch them grow and their adult colors to come in.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2017 01:35 |
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Agrajag posted:Cool, I'll look for that price range the. I've never kept that particular species, but if I recall correctly they prefer slightly cooler temperatures than most other new world species. I don't believe they are very difficult to keep though.
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# ¿ Sep 26, 2017 04:48 |
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hyperhazard posted:Yeah, snakes can stress out when they're in too large of a space. When he was about 2, I moved my bp from a 20 to a 55 because I thought he needed the room (derp). He stopped eating and wouldn't leave his hidey-hole, so I ended up trying a 30, and he was fine. I have to disagree with you there. The size isn't an issue at all, it's open space without adequate hides that causes stress. If you have a 40 gal with one little hide on one side and one little hide on the other, it could cause issues. However a 40 gal with numerous hides and decor will not only be fine, it will be preferable. The only downside to a large cage is trying to find the drat snake in it, and a baby hognose is very tiny. As a side note though, while hognoses are a very good choice for a first snake thy do tend to spend the majority of their time burrowed in the substrate.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2017 01:44 |
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Agrajag posted:Anyone here raising their own dubia colony? i kinda need tips on how to keep them especially over the winter. Stick it on the side and keep them in a moderately warm room and they'll be fine. Don't bother with water crystals. I have 30+ colonies and have never used them. As long as they have regular fruits and vegetables they'll be fine.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2017 01:11 |
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The pad shouldn't be hot enough to melt the plastic. As far as feeding goes you'll be able to figure out pretty quickly about how much to feed. Start small and if it disappears overnight feed more the next time.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2017 01:46 |
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Agrajag posted:Ok, thanks. No problem. Dubia are pretty easy to keep, just don't start feeding from the colony before it gets established and starts growing.
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# ¿ Oct 3, 2017 02:02 |
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Agrajag posted:I'm still growing out my colony but once I get it established what should I be feeding the dubias for gut loading? Just a variety of good quality food. Decent dog food, carrots, sweet potato, and oranges make a good staple.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2017 02:43 |
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Agrajag posted:It was a pain to take these pictures but here are the ones that aren't a total blurry mess of what I picked up Sunday. Very nice. Those are cool species. I'm a fan of most new world species.
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# ¿ Oct 26, 2017 01:54 |
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Agrajag posted:It's cute <3 This is not the most accurate way of sexing Ts, but I'd say your saizmai looks like a female.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2017 05:05 |
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Agrajag posted:Cool, I'm going to mark that one down as a possible female then. By looking at the epigastric furrow. It's not the most accurate way of determining, and I may be wrong. I'd say I'm 70-75% sure. http://milehighbugclub.com/Methods%20for%20Sexing%20Tarantulas.htm
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2017 00:12 |
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Agrajag posted:So if I read that right then this one is a possible female? Edit: I'm on my phone and the new pics didn't load. I'm not sure on those pics. Big Centipede fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Nov 4, 2017 |
# ¿ Nov 4, 2017 03:10 |
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The best way to sex tarantulas is from a molt. Buy a cheap magnifying loupe and it will make it much easier.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2017 03:15 |
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Agrajag posted:Lol, I'm gonna need like a 200x or something for molts from these tiny slings. Yeah crickets are loving gross. If you're wanting to get more arboreal species, I suggest starting a lateralis colony as well. They tend to climb more and don't burrow, which makes them easier to offer to arboreal Ts. Also, if you like Avics, you'll love Psalmopoeus and Tapinauchenius species.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2017 00:14 |
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Agrajag posted:OMFG, the Caribena Versicolor sling that I was freaking out over not eating and was trying to get it to feed every day molted. I am sooooo glad I didn't stress it out to death over this. I couldn't even tell it was in pre-molt, the thing wasn't particularly sluggish from what I could see and I couldn't tell if the abdomen ever got darker or not. Never stress over a non feeding T unless it looks like it's withering away. I've had an adult female G pulchripes go almost a year without eating.
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# ¿ Nov 9, 2017 05:28 |
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# ¿ May 11, 2024 15:36 |
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mactheknife posted:Had the beardie out for some roaming in the apt yesterday and he managed to find/eat a balled up starburst wrapper thinking it was a berry. Definitely freaking out about this, any ideas of how to keep it from impacting? Looking at soft food and baths all week. I imagine that should be fine. I wouldn't worry too much.
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# ¿ Nov 13, 2017 20:36 |