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Dr. Lunchables posted:I would say that the vast majority of people who have ever changed a wheel never owned or used a torque wrench, and wheels dont fly off as often as the thread seems to imply. Did you read a single word I posted? Like, yeah, sure, you're ~probably~ going to be fine. But the other side of that probably is extremely bad so you should ~probably~ try to avoid it as much as possible, especially when all it takes is to buy a special version of a tool you were going to use anyway. I get it if you literally cannot get access to a torque wrench in any way sure, yeah, fine. But that's not the sort of behavior that should be encouraged.
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Mar 26, 2024 06:51
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And in thy days of the service park did Ari Vatenen raised the impact driver up on high, saying, 'Begark, bless this thy impact driver , that with it thou mayst tighen all thine lug nuts, in thy mercy.' And the Lord did grin. And the people did feast upon the lambs, and sausages, and steak, and beer, and Coke, and breakfast cereals, and hot chips, and FIA scrutineers... And the Lord spake, saying, ''First shalt thou shall set the torque. Then shalt thou count to three ugga duggas, no more, no less. Three shall be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four ugga duggas shalt thou not count, neither count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five ugga duggasis right out. Once the number three, being the third number, be reached, then remove thou thy Holy impact driver of Finland from thy lug nut, who, being before being loose in My sight, shall not be
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Mar 26, 2024 10:16
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I placed an order last night for spare parts but decided not to get the torque wrench  I just can't decide if it's a bad or good choice to buy a cheap one but also I can't afford a new one. Like I think 20 is worth fussing about. e: Also I've seen the workers in shops change other peoples tires when picking up my own cars over the years, they tighten with an impact only. So having it done professionally at the places I've been to, don't involve no torque wrenches. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Mar 26, 2024 |
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Mar 26, 2024 11:32
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totalnewbie posted:Did you read a single word I posted? Like, yeah, sure, you're ~probably~ going to be fine. But the other side of that probably is extremely bad so you should ~probably~ try to avoid it as much as possible, especially when all it takes is to buy a special version of a tool you were going to use anyway. Its a generalized comment, not about you. I dont know why you thought I was attacking you.
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Mar 26, 2024 12:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:I placed an order last night for spare parts but decided not to get the torque wrench They usually use "torque sticks" that get it "close" to what the factory spec should be. Tire shops are trying to get you the gently caress in and the gently caress out afap so they ain't got time for that poo poo. But a torque stick can get you close enough.
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Mar 26, 2024 14:04
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Safety Dance posted:Shoot an email to Ryan at ADKOS -- rbarrett@adkos.com. They did an excellent job moving my car from NC to WA. I contacted these guys and one of my cars is supposed to get picked up today. They seem alright, they do have a hard sell script they read when you try to get off the phone with them.
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Mar 26, 2024 14:11
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Crossposting from my TSD thread: Is there any salvaging this, or should I start unwrapping and butt splicing?
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Mar 27, 2024 06:15
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Safety Dance posted:Crossposting from my TSD thread:
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Mar 27, 2024 06:19
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That's done. It said bake until flaky. Seriously though, that insulation is trash and I'd expect the rest of the harness to be bad too. Can you get better pics of the connectors? You might be able to buy new pins and simply make a whole new harness with the same connector housings.
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Mar 27, 2024 06:31
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Yeah, I'll take better pictures of the connectors in the morning.
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Mar 27, 2024 06:34
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Safety Dance posted:Crossposting from my TSD thread: Oof, good lord.
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Mar 27, 2024 11:04
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sleepy gary posted:Oof, good lord. That was my reaction, more or less. kastein posted:That's done. It said bake until flaky. The 6-pin connector:   Some quick googling reveals that it's probably made by Tyco-AMP-TE Connectivity. I don't see good matches on the 964961-1 part number, but there are some things labelled 964960-1 that look very similar. The 2-pin connector:   8bux on ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166218358625, but I'm not sure about the individual pins. The fact that the 6pin connector has square holes while the 2 pin connector has cross-shaped holes makes me wonder if they're not made by different manufacturers.
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Mar 27, 2024 20:53
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that 6 pin looks identical to BMW audio plugs. number 6: https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/gen...d=2122336232&q= https://www.znmperformance.com/bmw-universal-socket-housing-uncoded-kit-genuine-bmw-61132359992/
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Mar 27, 2024 22:26
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Connectors: Make sure you check the keyway fits (if it exists)
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Mar 27, 2024 22:30
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If none of those work you can usually find weatherproof connectors at Napa and the like. In my experience they come with pins and all you do is crimp the wires to the pin, insert in the right hole and done.
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Mar 27, 2024 22:33
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totalnewbie posted:Connectors: This Often if you see a connector in multiple colors that's seemingly identical, it has keying to only plug into the matching color so assembly line techs can't plug things in wrong even if they wanted to.
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Mar 27, 2024 23:03
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Powershift posted:that 6 pin looks identical to BMW audio plugs. Good eye. Same manfacturer. wesleywillis posted:If none of those work you can usually find weatherproof connectors at Napa and the like. In my experience they come with pins and all you do is crimp the wires to the pin, insert in the right hole and done. If this is a huge boondoggle, I might just desolder the pigtails from the sunroof controls and make my own pigtails with deutsch connectors. I've already got them and the associated criping tools, etc.
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Mar 27, 2024 23:03
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kastein posted:This O2 sensors for GM had 4 choices for colors and 8 keyways. Sleeves also came in grey or black. Each color/keyway/sleeve color combination was assigned to differentiate different sensor suppliers, sensor type, keyway, etc. GM wanted to change one thing and so I spent an hour sitting down with a DRE to go over which vehicle was in which vehicle plant and had what part numbers and what color connectors and keyways and oh my god what a headache. Yep, that's what it's like being an engineer. Sorting colors and shapes.
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Mar 27, 2024 23:17
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Safety Dance posted:That was my reaction, more or less. I dunno what kind of car this is, but I just watched a youtube about a car catching fire and the reason was that the insulation had degraded in the wiring harness, because for those particular years (84-86) of that particular car the manufacturer experimented with a different type of wire insulation that was biodegradable. It was just falling apart by then. So based on that I would be a bit worried if the rest of the wiring looked like this.
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Mar 28, 2024 07:20
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His Divine Shadow posted:I dunno what kind of car this is, but I just watched a youtube about a car catching fire and the reason was that the insulation had degraded in the wiring harness, because for those particular years (84-86) of that particular car the manufacturer experimented with a different type of wire insulation that was biodegradable. It was just falling apart by then. So based on that I would be a bit worried if the rest of the wiring looked like this. I... want things to be environmentally friendly but what the gently caress.
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Mar 28, 2024 07:26
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Mercedes also did this in 92-96 I heard.
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Mar 28, 2024 10:57
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Also, seem to recall a manufacture (I'm thinking perhaps BMW) where fluids would siphon into the wiring harnesses.
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Mar 28, 2024 10:58
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Also, seem to recall a manufacture (I'm thinking perhaps BMW) where fluids would siphon into the wiring harnesses. mk IV Volkswagens where fluid would siphon in to the tail lights eventually
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Mar 28, 2024 11:17
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:mk IV Volkswagens where fluid would siphon in to the tail lights eventually Ah I guess it was blinker fluid
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Mar 28, 2024 11:33
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His Divine Shadow posted:Ah I guess it was blinker fluid Any fluid can be blinker fluid if you're brave enough.
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Mar 28, 2024 12:41
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DildenAnders posted:Any fluid can be blinker fluid if you're brave enough. I know what I must do but I know not if I have the
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Mar 28, 2024 12:55
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His Divine Shadow posted:I dunno what kind of car this is, but I just watched a youtube about a car catching fire and the reason was that the insulation had degraded in the wiring harness, because for those particular years (84-86) of that particular car the manufacturer experimented with a different type of wire insulation that was biodegradable. It was just falling apart by then. So based on that I would be a bit worried if the rest of the wiring looked like this. It's a 2006 Porsche Cayenne. Adjacent wires look fine, weirdly enough. It's just the control wires for the panoramic sunroof that look like this. The next time I get a chance, I'll take a look at the main harness but I'm less concerned.
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Mar 28, 2024 17:18
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2005 (?) GMC Safari aka Chevy Astro, AWD if that makes any difference. Battery light is on -- intermittently? I was wondering what actually triggers a battery light. I couldn't find a simple answer -- is it voltage of the alternator, or something else? Owner notes that it came on before but went away when they added oil (it's losing oil somehow). I don't see how that could be connected but ??? Anyways, would be good to know the actual trigger of the battery light and then how to handle it.
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Mar 28, 2024 20:38
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Kia Soul Enthusias posted:2005 (?) GMC Safari aka Chevy Astro, AWD if that makes any difference. Usually it's just a low voltage in the system, you need to throw a multimeter on the battery with it off and with it running and see what your actual voltages are.
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Mar 28, 2024 20:47
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Lowest hanging fruit: check the physical connection to the battery.
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Mar 28, 2024 22:32
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This is for a 2019 Hyundai Elantra "Value Edition" piece of poo poo The rear brake and turn signal lamp on the passenger side don't work this started after I had to replace the front driver's side turn signal and fog lamp which came off during a snowstorm. I noticed while repairing it that the piece in the picture below was disconnected but I can't figure out where it goes what it even does and if that is part of the reason why it doesn't work:  I replaced the bulbs which had no effect and below is a picture of the wiring leading to the bulbs and it appears all the wiring is sound I don't know if there's some hidden damage in the wiring harness that I cannot see or if it is directly related to that loose piece that I found while repairing.  Any thoughts before I have to go see my dealership anyway to have them install an anti-theft device because apparently you can steal this car with a loving iPhone charger. Edit - solved it The bulbs were swapped because I'm a big old dumbass. Beefed Owl fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Mar 29, 2024 |
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Mar 29, 2024 01:14
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That looks the ambient air sensor...they usually clip in some where way up front, either a hole in bumper or somewhere just behind it.
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Mar 29, 2024 10:24
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Leeloo would like to know who's good with Japanese and is willing to help me with part information lookup? Site: https://www.duell.jp/products/ Part #: F56PSFRPDG https://www.ecstuning.com/b-duell-ag-parts/duell-ag-f54-f55-f56-f57-f60-frp-dark-gray-shifter-pair/f56psfrpdg~dag/ What I'm looking for is the overall length of the paddles from top to bottom. Any other data besides that is gravy, but the critical number is the overall length and hopefully that number is > 120mm which is the length of the stock paddles on my car. And here's the why:   Thanks, all y'all are amazing.
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Mar 29, 2024 12:24
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Hiya, again! 2014 VW Routan SEL, 3.6 V6. Sometimes while driving, every warning light turns on and everything electric stops working for a second except for the exterior lights. This does not effect ABS, traction control, or shifting, either. The problem happens regardless of temperature and weather. I checked all of the fuses and relays. The battery is new and so are the battery cables. The vehicle has had some pretty major work done to it in the last six months. The cylinder heads and transmission have been replaced by the original dealer. The dealer really didn't appreciate us actually taking advantage of the extended warranty and fought every step of the way towards getting the thing back on the road. I'd like to have some inkling of what to look for myself before taking it back to them, or the other local CDJ dealer. Any ideas of where I should start poking around with my cheap little multimeter?
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Mar 30, 2024 01:05
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Check BOTH ends of the battery cables. Check theyre really tight and dont wiggle. Check the wires from the battery to the engine fuse block too.
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Mar 30, 2024 01:32
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Whats the go to OBDII scanner now? Can it clear codes?
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Mar 31, 2024 00:43
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Dr. Lunchables posted:What’s the go to OBDII scanner now? Can it clear codes? All of them clear codes, carista is very good if you have a VAG product, otherwise whatever from Amazon works and use Torque on the phone. If you have an apple phone I guess some poo poo is different like you have to get a local wifi obd2 device not a BT one.
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Mar 31, 2024 01:24
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Background info: A buddy of mine has a Ford Edge ST hes been modding. I have a Fiesta ST and can deal with codes using my Cobb Accessport, something he cant do. As such I dont know what to recommend to him for reading/clearing codes. I appreciate the info, and Ill definitely steer him toward the torque app.
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Mar 31, 2024 01:27
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+1 for Torque. The free version can read and clear codes, but the paid version is only $5. You can get the BT OBD2 adapter on Amazon for under $20.
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Mar 31, 2024 03:36
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I swear I'm not trying to start an argument. I swear it. When you do a brake job, do you put any lube on the "ears" of your brake pads? Some people say no, because the grease will collect dust, grit etc and cause them to stop moving or move less freely. Other people say yes because its a moving part, and you should lubricate where two parts rub against each other. In my mind, both arguments make sense. I've definitely seen occasions where grease ends up picking up crud and making things more difficult to move, but also can see why no lube can also be bad. I have and have not on numerous occasions. When I have, I usually use a minimal amount and only on the spots where contact is expected. When I haven't I try to make sure the surfaces are clean and rust free. I haven't noticed a difference, but I've never really paid much attention one way or the other. Except to say that both have had negative results, *sometimes*. What's AI's thoughts on the matter?
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Mar 31, 2024 20:43
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