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I think this is kinda car related so I am asking here. If I have used a spray gun with hammerite, is the gun ruined forever or is there a good method to get all the silicone residue gone from the gun, white spirit or acetone, I think ultrasonic cleaning is frowned upon? It's a cheapo 30€ LVLP gun but it was fine, just not with hammerite, I'd like to keep using it for normal paints.
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May 5, 2017 07:11
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Tomarse posted:I have sprayed with Hammerite too. The hammered one gives a nice metallic finish. Missed this answer, but I didn't forget to clean my spray gun, I did clean it with the thinner recommended by the paint (which isn't brand hammerite, just that style). My question is more, can a gun that has sprayed a silicone paint ever be "safe" to use with other finishes?
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May 9, 2017 11:21
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My car has got these dents from a fight with mail boxes Is there anything I can do at home about this, not worth taking it to a pro so if not I might just live with it. I have experience and equipment repainting cars (partly, like a door or spoiler and such, never done a whole one) but this is more "dent-al" work. I don't even care if it's perfect, just the worst bumps gone would be nice as I wanna use this car until it's dead and beyond hope. It's just such a nice every day driver, diesel and hardly ever gives me problems, had it for 11-12 years now. I was looking at videos of people doing body work but I guess it's nowehere as easy as they make it look with the hammers and dollies. I tried heating the areas like some videos show, but it didn't do anything, I have discovered there are suction-thingies you can buy and attach to a slide hammer to get dents out maybe worth a try since I have a slide hammer.
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Jun 23, 2020 12:44
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What is this, fell of my car last night, looks like it sat above the muffler. Some kinda heat shield? Man I hope it isn't something like, this part prevents the muffler from setting fire to the fuel tank. 
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Sep 9, 2020 08:28
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Quick question, my yaris has loads of these plastic buttons or fasteners, how do I get them off in a non destructive manner. I can't seem to work out how they're supposed to work, because they are likely so old they're stuck so I can't tell if I am supposed to push something in or pull something out, or if I just gotta destroy them to remove them.
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May 13, 2021 06:25
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Rhyno posted:Buy replacements before you start. You will break ar least 1/3 of them. I got maybe 2/3rds out using a knife and small crowbar. I can get by until I get new ones. Spent the morning cutting and grinding and shaping new sheet metal. Just started welding. Also I had two types, one had a center portion you could retract (in theory) and that made it easier to pull out and reuse.
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May 13, 2021 09:15
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Spent time on my car for nothing it feels like.  Both sides. Now I gotta weigh fixing vs scrapping. Can't fix this myself without a proper lift, which I don't got. Gonna take it to my local mechanic today and show him, he's honest and will tell me if it can be fixed and what it ought to be. My poor old car, only 382,000km on the meter. It looked fine all the years before until this inspection when the inspector put a hammer through it, rust was spreaing beneath the surface like a cancer.
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May 14, 2021 06:54
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Spoke to my mechanic over the phone and described the problem to him and he's pretty sure he can fix this without it being too expensive. He's worked on my car for years now (same mechanic since the 90s), and thinks I should definitely keep the car and that it has more life in it yet. So that's his opinion but on tuesday I am going there in person for an inspection. Hope I can keep it running, really like this old beater of a car.
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May 14, 2021 11:40
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I dunno, from my perspective it'd be around 500-800 euros to fix, quick price look at other yarises from the same period... 2000-4900 euros, and those cars are as old so who knows what you are buying with those. I certainly can't diagnose rust in those any better than I did with this one where we went round and hammered on things. If I can get a few more years out of it, or just one year, I'd consider it worth it to not deal with the hassle of looking for a good used car on a budget of 2000€ maybe. Then I can at least save up for a year for a newer car.
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May 14, 2021 15:57
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I'm interested in picking up a project car in the future, two years into the future perhaps when I got a space completed for working on a car. Basically I'm after some kind of late 80s asian pickup, take it apart and work on it from the ground up starting with the frame, which seems to be the weak point in 80s asians, at least the Toyotas, not sure about the Mazdas, Nissans or Isuzus. 4x4 isn't required and neither is a big powerful engine. A petrol engine though is best, most pickups here seem to be diesels, but a diesel is a worse candiate for what I want to do with the car which is to convert it to a hybrid that can run biogas (and petrol). We have a decent biogas network already here made from the regions household waste (public company and recycling is mandatory) and the fuel is about half the price per liter in addition to being carbon neutral so I think that could be a decent alternative to going EV and avoiding having a car that's so modern I can't do jack poo poo to it myself. If I never see the inside of a dealership in my life again it'll be too soon. The Toyota hilux looks the most interesting, but even non road worthy rust buckets are expensive so we'll have to see. The hilux certainly seems desireable. So just how much pain and suffering and potential failure do you think I am setting myself up for? What kind of pitfalls are there to these trucks, spares availability, the rust problems of the box frames (also seem to lack drainage holes in places). I'm imagening this will be a multi year project and I won't need the car to be ready for action as I already have a reliable daily driver.
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Aug 18, 2022 07:01
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Almost, Finland. Hauling my rear end to spain is extremely unlikely though. Maybe Sweden since cars there are overall cheaper, but we still gotta pay tax on them when bringing them home.
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Aug 18, 2022 08:06
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Well that's true, salt fucks up vehicles, but also people up here tend to be quite fastidious with rust prevention, undercoating and cavity treatments and such, so it might be possible to get an example that's not completely gone. I do see a lot of 80s and 90s pickups rolling around still. A road worthy hilux seems to be 1800 - 2500 euros at the cheapest though. Still, fully expected to be welding the frame and replacing parts with new steel. edit: Here's an example of what looks to be an excellent price / conditrion car based on local prices. 3500€ for an L200 from -87 https://www.nettiauto.com/en/mitsubishi/l200/13061893 Also found a junker hilux for 450€ though, but it's not even driveable, I would like to be able to drive the thing home. Honestly I had a look around in german mobile.de and prices seemed to be even higher over there, I think 80s cars might be of that age now where they are getting attractive, a late 90s car is probably at it's nadir price wise. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Aug 18, 2022 |
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Aug 18, 2022 09:09
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I'm looking at adding some extra headlights to my car. I drive a lot on pitch black rural roads and winter gets real dark near the arctic circle. It's fine when everything is frozen, that makes the landscape easy to see even if it's not snowy. But with climate change the period of darkness + rain + mud is pulling into december and it's just the worst. I was looking at a LED ramp, they seem to be the easiest to put on almost any care, replaces the front license plate holder and mounts above it. My question I guess is if LED ramps are the way to go now, or do the classic round lamps hold any advantages over the newer ramps? They certainly change the look of the car, a led ramp is quite inconspicous until it turns on. Which might be an advantage since I got a beaten up Yaris as daily driver. Never seen a Yaris with a row of extra lights in the front... Might look cool, or hilarious. One thing I'm reading is some people say don't mix light types. Use halogens for a halogen car, xenons for xenon, led for leds... His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:24 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 10:18
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We're pretty strict about lights here and it's actually illegal to put LED replacements in my regular headlights. They're sold in stores but with big "NOT ROAD LEGAL!!" signs. Whoever gets caught with those is probbly out a few hundred, and need to replace them with regulars every year before inspections or get failed. The place I saw that mentioned though was specifically in reference to putting additional headlights on the car and what to choose. I wonder if it's an opinion by people who really care about color matching and stuff. I do know lots of people with led ramps on their older cars who seem happy. I could get pretty cheap halogens too, a pair of Hella Comet FF200s for sale locally for 30 bucks. Also new ones are pretty decently priced I find. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 10:54 on Nov 22, 2022 |
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Nov 22, 2022 10:50
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Safety Dance posted:I remember visiting Finland and Sweden and being impressed at all the normal-person cars with accessory driving lights way up north. My concern about the front license plate holder mount is rigidity: how much will lights mounted there bounce around? I know my front plate mount just screws into the plastic bumper cover. I've been researching this and talking on local forums with car people here and it seems the LED ramps are more prone to doing the self-blinding thing by shining on the road too much, but they also throw more light sideways which is good so you better see the forest line. But again with lamps you can adjust this. Laws are pretty strict here and you can't mount a light which doesn't conform to the legal standards so buying from a finnish retailer will make sure I conform to regs. I'm looking at going with Hella brand or maybe NBB, both are good reputation brands. But I was surprised at the amount of people telling me the cheap "biltema" halogen lamps are really good for the price. Rigidity is an issue yeah, it's just a plastic bumper. There's a pretty decent sheet metal mount that attaches to the bumper and replaces the license plate mount. The lamps can then be braced with "struts" you mount to the frame and they go through the grille. That's what I see anyway on cars here. Lamps seem better to me since you can individually adjust them, a led ramp you cannot do much about if you don't like it. Since my car runs halogen lights I think it's a good fit to go with them, some people complain about headaches and annoyance when you run mixed colors. One person described it as frustrating when you drive along with the extra lights and it's a clear white light, then you switch to low beams and everything feels yellow. So color temperature matching seems important. Really hard to find any photos of a Yaris with extra lights (seem with led ramps), I had to settled for an Auris 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Nov 23, 2022 |
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Nov 23, 2022 05:58
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You're not allowed to do any changes which changes the factory light setup and a lot of people say the LED H4 bulbs you can buy dont provide better light out of a lamp designed around a H4 halogen. I dunno why it would be impossible to make a proper replacement though. I think it might become legal if that happens and they get CE approval. Stores sell H4 led bulbs here and I guess people just put them in despite the legality, running risk of fines and havign to remove them each year before inspections. Used to be even more strict regarding extra lights but those regulations have been relaxed a few years ago to make led ramps even legal. Extra lights don't alter the original factory lights so that's why they're allowed. e: I did buy the Hella FF500 kit, two 7" lamps, plain ole halogen there too. But I reasoned they where fine for various reasons, they where also cheap. It will be a huge improvement regardless. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:45 on Nov 24, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2022 07:41
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Apparently phillips have release an "E-approved" H4 replacement bulb. But it's still not legal from what I understand. Again every article I read about it talks about stuff like these lights blinding others on the road and also about insurance not paying out if you get caught with them. Those lamps are also like 200 euros a piece so I think I will keep buying 4 euro halogens. The lamps I bought where Hella, it's a german brand, didn't misspell Holly. Maybe you got that though, but I mention it just in case. e: the 200 euro was a kit with two bulbs and other stuff. e2: The 200 euro kit is an IPF, another company, the Philips kit is 150€ They also seem to be road legal in Austria, perhaps Germany now too. But the finnish stores have a "Not road legal" warning on them. So this seems like an area where it's now up to the countries individual regs. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Nov 24, 2022 |
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Nov 24, 2022 08:05
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This is mostly just idle curiosity but anyone know which late 80s or early 90s car has the best aftermarket situation today? Like are there any cars from that era that spares are still plentiful or being made for?
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Apr 3, 2023 11:31
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I was mostly curious since a guy from the US I know, sold his 1989 Mazda pickup because getting parts for it was getting to be a hassle, he claimed. Which made me wonder if that's a common thing, or if Mazda pickups where rare where he was or if it's just the breaks when dealing with older cars. I've been keeping an eye open since last year for an 80s or early 90s Japanese pickup as well as a project car so it made me think if that was gonna be a think. I'd like a toyota though and those where made in large numbers. I did run across this sweet Mazda B2200 just now however: 
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Apr 3, 2023 16:07
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only reason I can fathom why a "truck" would have better parts availability than a "car" is because the big three left the underpinnings of each of their trucks alone for the better part of decades at a time. It's entirely demand-based, and when the same single part number for a set of front brake pads covers literally thirty years of GM products, you're still going to have no problem finding those. TBH it might be a self-justification because they are tired of driving the same car since 2000. e: Or not as I read on.
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Apr 4, 2023 04:39
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honda whisperer posted:I'm currently in the very paused process of bringing a 90 civic back to life as a track car and hoo boy I was not expecting this level of its just gone for parts. Yeah it's kinda this I am afraid of too. I think buying a Hilux (Toyotas pickup) would mitigate it as it's such an insanely popular model. Mazdas seem nowhere as common. I do have a lathe and mill and poo poo so I am better off than most. I also like the old Datsuns but I am believe they would be even harder to find parts for, but OTOH, I tend to see a lot of them for sale, under the name of Nissan king cab as they get more modern. 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Apr 4, 2023 |
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Apr 4, 2023 04:43
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Feel like I'm 5 minutes away from calling this guy who is almost my neighbor and buying his '89 L200 4x4 for a measly €1600, thing passed MOT and is road legal until 10/2023. Thing that's stopping me is.. well the price. What's wrong with it? I'm sorry if this isn't the "I shouldn't be buying a car but I can't stop looking at ads and I need moral support" thread.
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Apr 5, 2023 13:18
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Sort of car related. Is there any literature on the 'art' of bashing sheet metal and fixing dings and dents on cars? I feel like there ought to be some old timey books about just this kind of thing from before bondo was common, but no idea what to look for. I assume most people in the trade used to learn by doing / apprenticing however. e: I have found several now actually, so I guess my question is, which is the best one. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 05:16 on May 25, 2023 |
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May 25, 2023 05:07
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Steel, it's more about repair and fixing than making new stuff I am interested in learning. It's a reaal impressive skill when you see some guy with a hammer and dolly and some kind of lever tool doing a million tappety taps on a dent and slowly working it in or out.
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May 25, 2023 06:06
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Awesome, looks like precisely the kind of thing I was looking for! Thanks 
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May 25, 2023 06:25
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I just realized my main commuting car is probably showing me the wrong mileage estimate on it's computer. It's a 2007 Yaris and I am running 185/65R15 tires on it for over a decade now, but from factory it had 185/60R15, I am running a slightly bigger tire because it's a lot more common a size and thus a lot cheaper. Since I am running bigger tires and the ECM has no way of knowing that I guess it throws off all kinds of estimates? And I think it means my fuel consumption estimate is probably on the high side?
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Jun 7, 2023 07:25
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Powershift posted:The difference is 3.4%. 3400 miles off over 100,000 miles. This also makes me realize that according to my odometer I've done 215,000 miles in this car since I bought it. This also means my odometer is now off by 7310 miles.
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Jun 7, 2023 08:17
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Dr. Lunchables posted:If you can get a primer pen then use that, it’s big enough. Keep in mind you’ll need to clean the surface first so that it can bind. In my experience alcohol has been surprisingly effective on sap.
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Jun 9, 2023 16:42
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I was thinking I would swap the ignition plugs, wires and distributor on my mazda 6 when I realized I am so behind on technology in my head even. Last gas car I owned before switching to diesel was a L98 5.7l engine and it used an old fashioned distributor. More modern engines use coil over plug so I think I will swap these all out, and the wires I guess. Gonna take this car for a longer trip in July and want to make sure it's ready for it. I don't know if they have ever been swapped out in the 220,000 km it has run (we've had it since 189k and only swapped plugs once) and I think the mileage it gets could be better for this car and motor. But I still feel a bit confused when looking at the parts. There's still this thing called a coil, which you connect the four wires to, it sorta reminds me of the role of the old style distributor. I guess it generates the power for the coil over the plug? So now instead of a coil and a distributor you got a central coil and then more coils over plugs and I guess the ECM controls when the main coil fires instead of a rotating mechanical device. Should anyway, should I replace both the central coil and the individual coils?
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Jun 12, 2023 07:39
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I need to take a look at the car later because I am unsure too now. I just went by what I was told. Might be what you say.
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Jun 12, 2023 08:12
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Looking at the engine it looks a lot like an old fashioned distributor setup, this thing is the coil:  And the wires look like this, at first I thought the long things on the end where the coils, but I am thinking it's not anything like that now. I think the coil is the first image and these are just wires. 
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Jun 12, 2023 10:35
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totalnewbie posted:You are correct and I would not change the coil pack for no reason. They're much more expensive. Honestly the same with wires unless you think you have reason to. I took everything out, put it back and cleaned all connections basically. I drove it this week, carefully, and got about 36 mpg out of the car, which is pretty good for it IMO. So I guess I just need to keep driving like an old man.
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Jun 17, 2023 19:42
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Snowy posted:Does this dent look like something I could improve with one of those cheap rear end Amazon dent pullers? I got a crease like that out of my door, but I spent days on that, though total work time was maybe an hour or two. Still not a perfect result but you can't see it unless you get close, working on some new tools (slappers) to try and give it another go but I think the real issue is metal stretching. Was a good link earlier in this thread related to my questions about sheet metal dent repair. Old school stuff. But I guess everybody is not like me in aggressively wanting to do everything themselves. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jun 22, 2023 |
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Jun 22, 2023 07:22
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I'm having problems with painting cars. As in I can't seem to get that final smooth result, there's always an imperfection left and it's kinda driving me crazy. Can I start blaming the equipment yet or is there something I am doing wrong? How many times do you have to use filler and sand down? I've also used high build primer, I've tried both dry and wet sanding to a smooth nice looking 1000 grit finish and then when it's time for the base coat I see there's an imperfection I missed in an area I could've sworn looked good. It's sorta driving me crazy and I wonder if I am using some bad products, or bad methods. I kinda prefer to wet sand by hand, have more control I think, but the end result was the same. At least it's mostly the sills and lower down on the car, but I have future plans where I want to do bigger surfaces, whole panels, maybe a whole car. I want to get perfect damned results then. I am using mostly 2k products from start to finish. Steps I took this latest repair -grind away rust and bad paint to bare metal -sand blast / citric acid / rinse and repeat -2k epoxy sealer -2k filler -Sanding 2k filler -2k high build primer, multiple coats -wet sanding the primer and blending in the area using 1000 grit sand paper -base coat -clear coat When I put down the base coat I saw imperfections I didn't see earlier. Since it was so low down on a cheap old car I didn't try and fix it but went on to clear coat. It still rankles though, I mean I want to be able to get a better finish. I dunno it doesn't feel like I've cheaped out on the products, maybe thge polyester filler I used this time was a no brand name cheapo can, but all the others where stuff from a car painting store and pro grade. Sand paper might also have been on the cheap ebay side of things.
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Jun 25, 2023 14:48
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LloydDobler posted:Yep, very common on 93+ volvos to have the broken serpentine belt wind around the crank pulley which can thread it into the timing cover and jump the timing belt which trashes the entire motor. So only buy volvos made before 93, like a nice 240.
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Jun 27, 2023 06:24
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Bilirubin posted:My memory of when I last had it replaced (it might have been in my old Corolla not this Matrix though) the engine configuration was such that it required a not insignificant amount of work. Of course, with all the computerized poo poo now I will not touch my car myself anmore. Have no idea about the Yaris but I can't imagine it is roomier than a Corolla The yaris is a good reliable car, but drat there's no space inside it for working on anything.
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Jun 27, 2023 06:27
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Safety Dance posted:If I had to guess, OP's tire blew out and took part of the fender liner with it. I don't see oil or any fluids on the ground, it should be a pretty straightforward fix. If you bought all your tires at the same time, you probably want to replace them all. The way that tire failed is pretty grody. The fender liner might be savable, or you might need a new one, but it's just molded plastic. The fender liner has blown of my yaris twice when doing 100kph, problem is the plastic retainers just die with age. I ran over both but one survived enough I put it back on.
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Jul 7, 2023 17:57
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Car electric question, got a luggage compartment light that stopped working. I hooked the light up to my own power source and it turns on fine. When I measure across the terminals it shows about 10 volts, but when I connect the light I get nothing, now it was a while since I checked but I believe the voltage went away when I checked with the light in place. So it's like putting a load on the circuit dropped the voltage to nothing. Possibly just a loose wire, bad ground, spitballing here.
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Jul 9, 2023 15:05
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cursedshitbox posted:It could also be air management side. Is this just newbie advice to steer him off from too advanced stuff, or does nobody work on diesel injectors in their home shops and leave it to the pros? It's just too dangerous to even consider?
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Jul 12, 2023 13:30
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So people don't work on these parts of diesels in a home shop environment at all?
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Jul 13, 2023 15:28
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