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I'm I insane for thinking that a 1990 Accord in one of the shittiest colours imaginable (light brown) with only 33k miles on it is pretty cool? I mean it's pretty much only due to the fact that it's like new. It's so obviously driven by a pensioner, and therefore still in pretty much mint condition. VVVVV: I won't lie, I did actually entertain the thought of buying it. I think the novelty of being a pensioner would wear off too quickly though. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Apr 19, 2016 |
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Apr 19, 2016 16:58
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How likely is it that the AC will need refilling due to that the car has been standing for ~4 years without use, and not because there is an actual leak? Owner lists the classic "AC needs refill" in the ad, which usually means it's shitted itself, but in this case the car has been unused for 4 years. Also, isn't it odd that a CV-joint breaks, gets replaced and then breaks within a year?
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Apr 29, 2016 06:59
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Enourmo posted:refrigerant doesn't leak particularly faster when sitting, but it does naturally seep out over long periods of time. How old is the car? 2004 Alfa Romeo 156 with 87k miles on it (yes I know) Memento posted:First question: reasonably likely. If the AC isn't used regularly, the oil doesn't get pushed around the system and the seals can perish and let the magic gas out. I see. Which means it's probably been driven hard. After doing some quick rough calculations: It's $1500, and with transport + fix it up + sort the import I'd probably spend another $1500, which would make it 2/3 of the price of most with the same year / miles. It's too big a risk, since on the pictures it has lovely rims and lovely sound system stuff. No leather neither, so it's not worth the risk. Don't really want to deal with a car that hasn't been driven for ~4 years neither, that is too far away to go check out. Thanks for the info though, I'll keep those things in mind for the next time. VVVVV: Yeah you're right. It's off the table. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 09:26
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Slavvy posted:Wowsers that is one hell of a trial by fire. Buy a toyota/honda/mazda in future, they're made well and have few problems. If none of those are possible for whatever reason, step down to the next tier of hyundai/nissan/ford/gm/mitsubishi. Unless you care a LOT about looking cool/rich, or dynamic driving experience is something that matters to you, there is basically no point in buying any european car. Well, if you live in a place where rust is going to be a risk, I'd read up on what cars (i.e plenty that you mentioned) have bad rust protection and be mindful of that when going to look at a car.
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May 7, 2016 18:52
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Melthir posted:What tires should I get for my rear wheel drive car for winter. It's only bellow 40 for about three months out of the year but it rains more than just about anywhere else in the world. Never had anything but 4x4s for the winter with all terrains or better. I'd get proper winter tires, put them on when the average temperature is ~41 and be comfortable and safe. Especially if it snows or goes below freezing (early mornings?). But even if it doesn't, winter tires are going to handle everything much better at below 40 than summer tires or all season tires (which suck) do.
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May 9, 2016 08:10
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Femtosecond posted:I've sort of ignored cars for a long time and I barely know how they work let alone how to do any sort of basic repairs. Is there a good online resource or book that explains how cars work and goes into detail about mechanical issues and upkeep? Hah, I too used Sheldon Brown to learn more about bicycle stuff. Some of the YouTube channels I watch are ChrisFix (quick How-To-Videos that show a brake change in 10 minutes or less), EricTheCarGuy (more of a slower film through the process of him fixing something on a car). I like the ChrisFix style for specific jobs, but EricTheCarGUy style for general understanding, and getting comfortable with cars. There are tons of videos on the tube. If you get into detailing, AMMONYC is my favourite. He revived my OCD. Also, car make / model specific forums are always good. Well they can be, if there aren't total shitlords. It kind of depends on the car make. I know Alfa Forums are usually extremely friendly and helpful, while the Vauxhall forums (I know because I read up on the M32 gearbox) have "gurus" that can be dicks to people asking about jobs deemed "too hard for plebs to do" by said gurus. Edit: Clarification MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:52 on May 16, 2016 |
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May 16, 2016 06:51
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Speaking of driving tests, is this representative for a typical drivers license test in the US? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pec-vRDZi8A Seems extremely simple to get a license.
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May 17, 2016 15:38
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So for some reason I've been reading about rust on cars instead of doing my drat thesis. I noticed that pretty much every video about rust repair on YouTube has > 25% dislikes. From what I gather it's (when it's not clearly a hack job) because of not removing the panel that rusted, regardless of if it's cleaned or not. But at the same time I've seen guides on websites where they wire brush it / scrape it, chemically treat it, wire brush it / scrape it, chemically treat it, et.c. until all rust (including the rust in the pitting) is gone, then they treat it again to protect corrosion while they work on it. After that they epoxy it then paint. This was an area the size of maybe 4x4cm on a trunk. Wouldn't this work fine? Also, what's a good way to keep rust away from the underside of a car? Besides cleaning it during the winter, I've heard different stories. In one camp they are all for the undercoating and treating it, while in the other they say that all this does it make it look nice, while rust grows inside the coating and it's harder to spot. Then there is stuff like Dinitrol which seem to work.
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May 20, 2016 08:46
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Some vehicles are easier to undercoat than others. My 2014 Sierra has grease spots for the underside and stuff to get inside the structure too, I know they use to drill holes to get the grease inside so you if have a small vehicle it might be hard to get the grease everywhere it needs to be. I'm no expert though and this is just from my own personal experience 0toShifty posted:I used this spray stuff called Fluid Film on the underside my 2013 Prius C. - it's a very oily lanolin-based stuff that protects the metal from rusting. I sprayed it on the underside of the car - every chassis and suspension bolt head. Sprayed the tie-rod threads too to make them easier to adjust. So far it has worked VERY well. Even after two years - the coating is still there. Thanks for the info guys. I'll check out Fluid Film. I finally found an Alfa 156, that the owner put through a Dinitrol rust protection thing when he bought it 5 years ago. I don't know if that a local thing or exists in the US / rest of Europe, but basically they keep the car for a couple of days, inspect it, spray anti corrosion poo poo inside all the cavities and protect the underside. The owner hasn't noticed any rust so far. If I buy it, I'd like to keep it as free of rust as possible. But I'm not spending 1/5-1/3 of the cars value on rust protection if I can help it, which is why I'm researching rust protection. Doesn't help that I live in a country that sees snowy winters, and salted roads. Now I just gotta go see the car and fail miserably at haggling and pay too much.
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May 21, 2016 19:44
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ultrabay2000 posted:Someone sat on my car: Find this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym_P2kQAzSQ Seriously though, go find a good one and see what they say. Was it someone you know that sat on it, or the usual drunk idiots that decide vandalize peoples cars? Had some people go up on my dads DS3 to bend off the antenna for some dumb reason. That poor car got so much poo poo done to it when it was just parked waiting to be collected for end of lease. I think my dad had to repair it twice, an he was out of country as well so he couldn't really do much about it. The lease people refused to take it in earlier. Can even see the drat dent on google maps...
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May 22, 2016 11:43
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So I drove 3½ hours to see an Alfa 156 today and on outside inspection it was in very good condition (found no rust at all, and I was pretty thorough) except for some minor cosmetic stuff, even less stone chips than on our 2014 car. So far so good. But when we went for a test drive my first reaction was "Woah this engine / exhaust is loud as hell", but then when I accelerated up to motorway speeds (worst when accelration) there was a very loud drone. I couldn't hear what my dad sitting in the back seat was saying to me, and to be honest, after I few minutes I felt drained. My girlfriend noticed it too and was annoyed by it. So I tried to pin point what the sound could be caused by and put the clutch in at different speeds, which did nothing to change the sound. It was 100% dependent on the speed we were going, with the exception that it got worse when accelerating. The owner said that he never noticed it (which is pretty insane, but could be because it's slowy been getting worse) and that it's been the same sound since he got it 5 years ago. So we swapped places and I sat in the front passanger seat and it was just as clear but I now noticed pretty heavy vibrations from the the floor panel where I had the feet (pretty far up forward), which got much worse (as with the sound) when he accelerated hard. It was so loud that I couldn't hear the engine rev, and that's even with a "sportier" exhaust fitted. We had some theories and I guessed that it must be wheel bearing, drive shafts or gearbox/flywheel since it wasn't dependent on engine revs, but vehicle speed. No change in sound when turning, and was only silent at very low speeds. I walked away because I reasoned that I don't want to pay for an already overpriced car where I then have to fix a sound like that. Also I don't think I could have drived 3½ back with that sound without stopping to take breaks. Anyone have any ideas? Not going to buy it but it'll be good to have an idea what the hell it could be if I even encounter it again.
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May 27, 2016 19:09
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Even with the sound coming from the middle front, and there was no change in sound when turning the car? If it's "only" bearing I probably could have changed them pretty cheap, but like I said, I don't think I could have driven for 3½H with that sound. Oh and the clutch had very little travel. Might just be how those cars are, but 10-15cm travel feels a bit little. I chose to go with gut feeling, and walked away. Maybe it was a mistake if it's "only" a bearing. Oh well. Still amazed that the owner didn't notice it.
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May 27, 2016 20:11
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Geoj posted:Any chance it had a lightweight/aluminum flywheel? I have a 12lb aluminum flywheel in my Focus and it makes all kinds of excess noise that would be a massive cause for concern if I heard it without knowing about the flywheel.I get a grinding/scraping noise when I'm rolling in gear off-throttle or while engine braking, and the car almost sounds like a diesel at idle from a rattling noise the TOB makes that is normally absorbed by the stock 30lb flywheel. No clatter that I could hear. None of the grinding or scraping noise. At first I was confused as hell because I heard what I first thought was engine sound, but then I looked at the rev counter and I was on ~2k, and the sound was pretty constant. So I realized that I couldn't actually hear the engine at all when driving, except when accelerating hard. Barely then to be honest. The owner had no idea, and he bought it from a dealer. It really was unberable. For reference, my old '98 shitbox Carisma I had a couple of years ago wasn't even close to being this loud. The 156 is 6 years newer and a "premium" car by comparison so it really isn't normal. If it's a mod that makes it sound like that I'm not interested anyway. Just sucks to drive for 7 hours to have a problem like that show up, and the owner not noticing. Really weird. Edit: Ok after listening on youtube I'm 90% sure it's the wheel bearing(s). Mystery solved I guess. Now I know. But that also means that the owner has been driving around with bad wheel bearing for years.  VVVV: Appreaciate it, I'll certainly remember it for the future. 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 22:50 on May 27, 2016 |
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May 27, 2016 22:17
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This is a really dumb question, but how the hell does one stop smoothly in an automatic? I never drive autos, and when I drive normally in my manual car I always let up the brake just before the car fully stops to eliminate that jolt that otherwise arises when holding the brake in while fully stopping. I've never been able to do it in an automatic, and it's even worse when the car has a stop/start function. Is it just something that will come with time, or is it pretty much impossible to do in an automatic? It might seem petty, but I don't think I could live with having that drat jolt every time I fully stop now that I've spent almost 10 years not doing it. Another thing I can't stand is the "lag" between pressing the gas and the gearbox deciding what gear to be in / downshifting where nothing seems to happen. Obviously this is something that varies from car to car, but I had a rental Volvo V40 that was utterly useless. The Hyundai I40 I test drove yesterday was much better, but still felt very uncivilized compared to driving with a manual. I don't know what to try that isn't a super expensive car, that still has a good enough automatic. Also I never get the feeling of driving / having proper control of the car in an auto, but that's probably just a habit thing. The reason I'm whining is that the girlfriend likes automatics, and more and more new cars are automatics so I kinda want to know how much it's me and how much it's the technology. I don't really want to spend a ton of money on something that I won't enjoy in the end.
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May 31, 2016 14:52
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Safety Dance posted:Modulate your braking pressure. Learn to anticipate that jolt, and ease up on the brakes just before it happens to mitigate the jolty feeling. So in other words, it's not possible avoid completely. I did get close to avoiding it, but then the brake pressure wasn't enough to keep the car from wanting to drive again. Aside for my petty stopping complaints, which cars have the best automatic gearboxes? I'd like to try one and get a good idea of what a good one is like.
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May 31, 2016 17:05
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Ah I see. I think I get it. Good to hear. It sounds silly, but doing the joltless stops are one of the few things I enjoy about driving in the city.
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May 31, 2016 17:25
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Douche4Sale posted:Really stupid question incoming. I recently got a new car. In the past I have had cheap, beat-up cars that just served to get me from A to B. Now that I have a nicer, new car, I'd like to ensure that I take good care of it. I'm well aware of all the preventative care/maintenance I need to do for it, but I need help on the exterior. Whatever you do, don't use any brushes, water blades or rough towels on the car. You could get the car treated ("sealed") professionally, which is supposed to last a long time and make it easier to wash. I don't know what options are available in the US. After that you could do a quick pressure wash every now and then (before it gets too horrid) and be happy with that. If you want to do it by hand, properly I'd get some nice stuff from theragcompany.com (I think they have starter kits), a couple of buckets and some products like Meguiar's. Watch some videos on youtube.
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Jun 23, 2016 08:39
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Cage posted:This will be my only set, like I said I will be getting rid of the ones on there as they are undersized. Otherwise I wouldn't be asking about how well snow tires do in the summer. They wear faster and perform significantly worse than summer tires. So it's a waste of money and a bigger risk. I'd get a second set of rims and put the best you can afford of each type on each set. It's cheap insurance.
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Aug 20, 2016 21:50
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A 50L Atlas Copco, 10 Bar, ~10CFM compressor should be enough for basic DIY automotive stuff, right?
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Sep 20, 2016 20:59
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I loving hate scrivets. It seems like if they are even a bit worn you are hosed. And they are a massive pain to remove without unscrewing first. Maybe superglue something to the rivets that are hosed?
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Oct 8, 2016 08:56
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Asked a similar question in the chat thread, but this is a really dumb question so... How silly is it to buy an "almost finished restoring it" 65' Corvair Coupé with "a lot of spares" assuming that it's complete? In the US, not very. But I'm in Europe and have to rely on getting parts from the US which means 100% more expensive after shipping and customs. Some old dude selling it unfinished for $2700 due to illness. I didn't know anything about the Corvair before, but it's a cool blend of European and American styles. I generally don't care for big American cars over here because frankly they look out of place. It kinda reminds me of a Karmann Ghia as well. Seems easy to work on as well.
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Oct 29, 2016 09:37
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InitialDave posted:It depends on the "almost" and the "lot of spares". Talked to the guy and it's more work than I'm up for at the moment. It's mainly the parts cost that puts me off at the moment. If I lived in the US I'd get one in a heartbeat, but yeah. In other news: Noticed that the rear passenger footwell was soaking wet. No signs of leakage from the doors or nothing. Nothing else is at all wet. It's like someone spilled a bottle of water on that specific location. I'm going to see if it dries out and check next time it rains.
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Oct 30, 2016 18:39
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Speaking of condensation: I recently (as it's getting colder) noticed the windows fogging up, then I noticed that the passenger side floors were soaking wet. As the sides and roof lining are bone dry, the prime suspect is a clogged A/C drain and that it's been going on for quite a while. The next suspect is that water somehow is getting in from under the car, but assuming that there aren't any rust holes etc, is that even possible? Most of the bottom of the car is covered in plastic undertrays, but I kind of recently broke a couple of screwets, and it's not as "tight" as before. I haven't had the time to get under the car and have a look. Been doing my best to try to dry it out so far. Edit: Just poured some water into the AC drain tube. No real problem there. Back to square one. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 09:03
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Godholio posted:Heater core? For your sake I hope not. "Soaking wet" suggest it's not just condensation. I certainly hope not. I think the "soaking wet" part is due to me not noticing the water for ages, allowing it to build up. The water is odorless, the heater works very well, and the AC seems to work (hard to tell since it's around freezing here). Googling tells me that those things speak against a heater core failure. I'm 99% sure I haven't lost any coolant. I also haven't really seen any increase in water. I put some old towels in to soak up the free water under the carpets (there is a small hole to view vin numbers) and they soaked up all the free water. Problem now is that the sound deadening under the carpets have soaked up a ton of water, and it's hard to get out. Maybe put some socks full of silica cat litter in under the carpets to help dry it out?
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Nov 19, 2016 19:11
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:FWIW, 90-93 Integras had a huge issue where you'd get a waterfall pouring out from under the dash anytime you went through a car wash. Or when it rained. Or if it thought about raining. I've googled it to death, and the same platform vehicles. I'm trying to figure out what's changed since I've washed the car multiple times without trouble during the summer / early fall. There are loads of trees where I park, so it's not impossible that something's gotten clogged up. But I need to take off the wipers to access the scuttle bay, not something I can really do here since I got street parking. The only other thing I've done is spray some (low viscosity) Dinitrol rust proofing into the rocker panels / beams. Nothing that should in any way clog up potential drain holes or anything. Have to buy some time right now, might be able to get away and pull out the passenger side interior and dry it out / go leak hunting.  Edit: Went down to the car to put some silicate cat litter in old socks underneath the carpet. Checked the coolant - it was same level as usual. Checked for clogged scuttle drains, but it was clean. At least it hasn't become any wetter despite a decent amount of rain the last week. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 10:06
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Surprise T Rex posted:So I know nothing about cars, really. If it isn't an expensive car and you have access to a garage I'd try to paint it myself. Might not be perfect, but with 2 component paints and good prep work you can get good results. Especially since it probably won't be a couple hundred pounds to fix unless you get a "really good price". I'd say this is pretty much what you need to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnILSQo_svI
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Dec 11, 2016 12:31
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Clunking noises while stationary and turning the wheel is probably the top strut mount bearing, right? A spring under tension that settles kinda of sound.
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Jan 13, 2017 18:42
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kastein posted:Could be that or most othe rthings in the steering, lower balljoint, who knows. I would suggest having someone turn the wheel back and forth enough to cause the noise and going looking for it by feel. You'll find it pretty quick. Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow. In the meantime I did some more research and this model (and the ones that share the chassis) apparently eats strut mounts for breakfast lunch and dinner, so it's very likely. No play in the steering. I recently MOT:d it and specifically asked if there was anything about the suspension that seemed worn, but there was nothing. It's been the last couple of weeks or so (also with freezing and thawing temperatures) that the sound (and vibration to the floor) has been present. The suspension mounts are located in the scuttle tray, and not inside the engine bay like on other cars, so they get exposed to a lot of rain.
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Jan 13, 2017 22:23
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Godholio posted:ABS only became mandatory in the US in 2013. Wow... that really explains a lot. I was sitting here wondering "Why are all those modern cars sliding like they don't have ABS, when my old lovely Carisma from 98 and it didn't lock up even on sheet ice. ".
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Jan 17, 2017 09:32
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Christobevii3 posted:The police won't do poo poo. I went through this. If you know a scientist friend have them examine the pay transfer, take a scraping, and sue them in civil court and waste your life on a 240k mile car. The nerve though. Parking across the street in plain sight. Almost worth loving with them.
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Jan 22, 2017 09:42
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My car is geared for nipping around town and have nice acceleration. 6th gear @ 40km/h. That inevitably means that going at motoway speeds is rather isufferable. ~3500 RPM in a poorly insulated car isn't very enjoyable. The little 4-cylinder engine sounds great when pushing it doing a 20 - 110 or something, but hearing it drone for even less than an hour really drains me.  If my gearbox ever break I'm thinking that I should investigate if there are any of the same gearbox from the bigger cars that fit my car.
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Feb 16, 2017 16:48
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Stupid question but: What practical ways are there to improve the emissions of a classic car by means of retrofitting / modifying? If there is a modern solution that will reduce harmful emissions, it'd be interesting to know.
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Mar 29, 2017 14:35
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Deteriorata posted:You can certainly retrofit a catalytic converter. You could add a charcoal canister/breather to the fuel tank to reduce VOC emissions. joat mon posted:Do what they did in the 60s and 70s. Detune the motor, add a PCV, EGR, catalytic converter, air injection and a sealed fuel system. I read that catalytic converters don't mix well with carbs due to the small band of air fuel ratio needed. Or that's just people exaggerating? I'll look into the later year motors (didn't think about that) and fuel injection. spog posted:Does it still run on leaded petrol? I don't actually have a car that needs it, but will probably have an older car in the near-ish future. I don't really care about the CO2 emissions, because compared to a new car it's already better off from being old. I'm more concerned with the local pollutants if I'm going to use it a lot. I probably won't mind spending a bit just to clean it up. Especially since I'm likely to drive in the city. I'll probably get a car from the mid 80's, so it'll probably have some emission reducing stuff on it from factory.
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Mar 29, 2017 21:27
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Motronic posted:May have some? Everything from that time is going to have cats and a sealed fuel system at a minimum. In good repair many are likely to be drat near the same as an average car from the 90s/early 2000s. Ah yes of course. I think I was a bit too tired when I wrote that. No reason to "feel bad" for driving an older car then really.
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Mar 30, 2017 06:13
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ok, then I'm back to my earliest possible solution. Sticking a hockey puck between the frame mount and the stand, just like this: If you want to be even safer, cut out a bit of the puck so that it fits the jackstand "head" snugly. I actually bought some hockey pucks that I'm going to make into pinch weld adaptors.
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Apr 11, 2017 08:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:As far as Youtube... for any reasonably common car, you can put in <car> <job to complete> and find at least a few reasonably detailed walkthroughs on it. I like both ChrisFix and EricTheCarGuy myself. Just as small note: If you watch ChrisFix and decide "Hey he's pretty good at fixing cars, lets watch his "detailing" videos". Be mindful that that's one area that he's lacking pretty severely in. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Apr 21, 2017 |
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Apr 21, 2017 17:56
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prom candy posted:I'm back with more manual transmission questions (is this the right thread for this? seems like most people need help fixing their cars, not driving them) I did my first long drive in a MT car this weekend and want to clarify a few things about driving stick on the highway. My wife (the owner of said manual car) has her own way of doing things but it's often at odds with what I've seen online, so I'd like to understand not just the what/how but also the why. For reference, the car is just a 2008 civic 5MT. Huge amount of variables, but rule of thumb is to always be in a gear that allows you to react quickly when in situations that require it. Then when it's chill, highest gear possible for best MPG. When it comes to passing it's down to the car / situation. If I pass on a highway I usually don't have to shift down because the car has pull and it doesn't lug the engine. If I pass on a country road I usually downshift to get past as quickly as possible. Lugging the engine is worse than revving it. People such a weird aversion to revving engines. Why you shouldn't do what you wife is doing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soJea7xEt-8
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May 21, 2017 09:13
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Michael Scott posted:Also lol paul walker. You think John Q Public washes their car more than once every couple months? If bird poop did damage to modern cars you'd see millions with shoddy paint. ...but that's also why John Q Public drives around in a filthy car with lovely paint that when they actually decide to wash it they just make it worse by using a local swirl-o-matic wash or decide that they'll manually induce the swirls by using sponges they drop on the ground / the local wash bay brush.
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May 27, 2017 20:20
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If I can feel grooves on rear disc brakes, how bad is it? http://imgur.com/CrD5bmB lovely picture but can't take the rims off right now. At least the pads seem to have a lot of material left.
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Aug 11, 2017 13:43
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monsterzero posted:Eh, that's pretty normal for an old rotor. That looks like a small (1-2mm lip) where the rotors are worn. As long as you're not nearing the rotor's minimum thickness, the pads are wearing evenly, and the rotor wear is consistent across both sides I would file this under 'replace rotors when pads get low.' Cool, thanks! I figured that the MOT-equivalent would have said something 6 months ago if it was in horrible condition. I don't drive very much, so I doubt there's much wear since then.
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Aug 11, 2017 17:35
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