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Budget Dracula posted:I only have liability on my car but I did contact a local place who even gave me different quality glass options and including clips/molding/mobile service it turned out to be $329. Thats pretty reasonable. Mobile service is so loving worth it.
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Feb 10, 2015 19:23
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Mr. Wiggles posted:So, we may be picking this up as a band van. The 318 is pretty good motor... really just a toasted tranny. I am sure Kastien will chime in about his hatred of Dodge vans.
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Feb 12, 2015 22:10
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two_beer_bishes posted:98 Civic, how important is the exhaust manifold heat shield? It's been rattling and driving my wife crazy, and a new one is $60-80 that I'd much rather spend on anything else. Mostly highway driving, never park in tall grass. Find a friend with a welder and tack it back together or go to a REAL exhaust shop and have them tack it back together.
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Feb 13, 2015 19:51
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Yeah that was pretty stupid. He's lucky he wasn't stabbed.
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Feb 20, 2015 19:04
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StormDrain posted:In my wifes 2011 Ford Escape V6, on Saturday we went across town, about an hour long drive and everything was fine. The weather was cold and snowing here in Denver, really quite a bit of snow. We hung out at our destination for a few hours. On the way back, the car was real foggy and the defrosters were only about halfway effective. At the time I chalked it up to bringing a lot of moisture into the car by getting in and out, having snow all over our boots. I don't recall it smelling bad at the time. Sounds like a heater core failing if its fogging up the inside, the only other thing I can think of with a temp gauge not moving much and low heat output is a thermostat. But if it smells, start with checking for coolant loss.
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Feb 24, 2015 19:50
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StormDrain posted:Well I drove down there and looked at it. No leaks or drips on the floor, all of the plastic around the air boxes was completely clean like it had been detailed even. The level of coolant was down a very slight amount from the cold fill line but I have no reference to what it was last week. Yeah, I just looked it up... it claims 6 hours book time. But holy gently caress id rather stick needles in my dick that disassemble the dash.
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Feb 24, 2015 23:55
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Drunk Beekeeper posted:Bmw problems You have the ZF 5HP19.... I'd take a wager that your having electrical issues. E46s are super sensitive to electrical issues. Get your battery and alternator checked/tested.
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Feb 28, 2015 05:07
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Hey Guys, my 94 Ford Ranger is very bouncy. I replaced all the shocks when I first got it but its still the same. I don't see anything wrong with the springs(Leaf or Coils) what would you recommend I look at next? I haven't started my new job yet so I don't feel like throwing parts at it. About 100-150 lbs of sand should even it out. Trucks are bouncy when they are empty. Especially something as light as a ranger.
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Mar 16, 2015 03:29
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Friar Zucchini posted:I've got an '01 Suburban 2500 4x4, bone stock, with push-button electronic 4 wheel drive using an AutoTrac transfer case. At no point in the owner's manual does it say that, depending on what drive mode I'm in, I'm not supposed to drive on pavement, even in 4Lo. I'm used to the older type where you have to disengage 4 wheel drive on surfaces with good traction, so since I don't know how this system works I try to go really easy on it - 2 wheel drive until I actually notice wheelspin, then I put it in automatic mode, and that works fine until I actually need low gear. I pretty much never hit the 4Hi button, figuring Auto has the advantage of putting it in 2 wheel drive when 4x4 isn't needed, and I try to keep it in 2Hi as often as possible. When your in Auto mode, it engages the front axle and leaves the transfer case unlocked until slip is detected, which at that point slips it into 4HI. When your in Auto, shits always turning which will cause your fuel economy to suffer a little bit, but not much. Auto is not a true AWD system and should be treated as such. Even GM cheaped out on the Denali's and Escalades after 03, and did away with the viscous differential, and uses the brakes to transfer power between the front and rear axles (basically acting like another axle between the front and rear - guess where the power goes when poo poo starts to slip?) Long story short, don't leave auto on, just use 2HI until your slipping. Believe it or not, these trucks are pretty decently balanced, so you wont use the 4x4 as often as you think you would.
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Mar 29, 2015 23:56
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Friar Zucchini posted:So basically what I was already doing. As far as how often I "think I should" use 4 wheel drive, I just leave it in 2wd until I actually notice slippage, or if I'm diving through mud or a creek and there's basically no traction to be had. Pretty much. Unless you know its going to be slick, then pop it into 4HI before hand. Just make sure every thing is stopped before popping things in, because mashing turning poo poo into non turning poo poo isn't the best idea. The auto system is complete garbage.
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Mar 30, 2015 17:04
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GotDonuts posted:Thanks for all the helpfull advice. Maybe I will pick up a clunker this weekend from my buddies junk yard and see how long it takes me wrenching on it to either mangle it all to hell or end up with a decent veichle to sell for another lovely car. Sorry, late to the party... But make a thread too. Lots of people here have experience or know a thing or two and could give you pointers or help of you get stuck.
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Apr 1, 2015 14:13
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They are independent front ends. Very similar to (if not identical) to the 1987 3/4 pickups.
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Apr 30, 2015 17:35
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Astonishing Wang posted:Nice call! Too bad it's not solid, but if the rest checks out I think I'm going for it. That looks like a pretty clean old suburban. Its going to be an utter pig on fuel, but you can only tow a small 2 story house. You have to leave the larger homes to a 1 ton truck. Chevy hasn't used solid front axles on the 2wd trucks since.... late 60s is my best guess (IOC could confirm if his C10 is independent). I know Ford used the twin I beam front suspension since the 60s as well. If I am not mistaken, even the 1 ton trucks were independent front suspension as well.
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Apr 30, 2015 19:53
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I used to have one of those air nets on the farm truck. It reminds me of black snow fence... I'm on the phone otherwise I'd post a picture. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/161536...53D823153854367 This is what I'm thinking of. It couldn't hold a ton of weight but it was super handy considering the tailgate was roughly 85% rust, 5% mud and the other 10% was unknown substances. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 00:29 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 00:26
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Astonishing Wang posted:OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice. Fwiw guys here on the forums are doing roll on jobs. Rhyno's civic turned out pretty good and Phaum Newman (phone posting hope I got it right) is doing his little sports car. 90% of paint is prep and wet sanding. Paint has some to do with it, but you can see guys here are getting good results with rustoleom paint.
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May 3, 2015 20:43
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Motronic posted:It really would be, but is doesn't sound like you're quite there yet. And make sure to plug the old holes in the rad so it doesn't eat a head gasket.
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May 6, 2015 01:04
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Motronic posted:I've always looped them because I'm lazy, but if you can find plugs.....good on you. That does work. Dumb question - If I need to adapt a 21 spine adapter to say a 30 spline with different input shaft sizing on both sizes.... can a machine shop work something up like that? This is purely hypothetical.
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May 6, 2015 01:14
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MattD1zzl3 posted:Not a stupid question but more a stupid statement. Today i learned you could get everyones animu favorite the 4AGE (not one of its derivatives) put into a brad new toyota as recently at 2002. Other than something obvious like a small block chevrolet or a ford 5.0, what are some cult engines that carried on in ways people wouldnt expect? I considered making a thread but i'm probate paranoid. They used those 4.3 V6s in a ton of trucks and the orginal Buick V6 evolved into the last of the 3800 series 3 was shoved into a ton of vehicles, pretty much all GM cars had a model with a 3.8 V6, it was turbo'ed, supercharged.... Carbed, fuel injected.... Yes, it has had many revisions, but good lord, that thing is pretty ubiquitous. They even lived in Jeeps, and I am sure there's other things I am missing.
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May 11, 2015 17:02
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LeeMajors posted:Buy this car. I had a 97 4cyl that I bought with 77k on it, rolled another 140k without giving much thought to OCIs or any routine maintenance with no issues whatsoever. Put several thousand-mile road trips on it. All in about 6 years. They are tanks. The only thing that i have seen kill those mid 90's Toyotas is the tin worm. And if I do ever see one in the yards, they are stripped to the shell... and if the shell is clean, I have seen people chopping parts off the shell to hack together their own jalopy.
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May 22, 2015 15:12
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I've got a '97 Olds 88 (Series II 3800 V6)@ 167kmi that developed a lifter tick. It was getting pretty loud, so I did an oil change with Pennzoil High-mileage. It's much quieter now, but it never goes away. It used to clear up after about 10 minutes of driving, but now it's always there at low RPM (idle). Good news is these engines live with abuse pretty well. Try Marvel Mystery Oil and if that doesn't clear it up,you could go further in depth or just live with it. Some engines are just noisy as they age and with 160k+, I would say 200k mile wise will be pretty good.
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Jul 3, 2015 01:22
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Slavvy posted:If mad max were real the cars would be powered primarily by jeep I6's, Toyota 4 bangers of various kinds and the GM 3800. 3800s are pretty drat good motors. They make decent power for the size, and they actually are decent on fuel if you don't cane them.
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Jul 3, 2015 06:24
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Well, I decided this was a problem that could live until after my trip, so I drove ~600 highway miles on it. At about 400, the check engine light came on. The car is noticeably down on power, and now it sounds like it's got rod knock. Of course nobody was open at 8pm on Sunday, so I said "I'll just drive until I window the block or start smelling funny things." I doubt the engine has rod knock (not saying its possible, just unlikely). IOwnCalculus posted:It's possible the lifter is clacking because you have a trashed cam lobe. No way to know for sure until you break into the engine. This. Take off the valve covers and take a look. http://www.thinkythings.org/3800/3800.html this website has lots of shots of the motor, take a look at it, should give you some direction.
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Jul 8, 2015 17:57
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Krakkles posted:They usually are in cars with V-engines pointed the wrong way. V engines pointed the wrong way are engineers of telling the world to gently caress off.
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Jul 10, 2015 17:42
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bikesonyx posted:Can someone explain to me the rusted hood thing? I saw a SUV driving today with a rusted hood and I can't figure out how you would have to replace your hood but not anything else on the front of the car. I know its a tuner thing but this was obviously not a tuner. Also people who have flat black fenders. I owned a car once with flat black fenders I assumed they were replaced and never painted they were primer or some textured paint. Is there something I don't get here? People do tacky poo poo with their cars all the time. Like giant trash can exhausts with no performance benefit. Stick on chrome fender vents Truck Nuts. etc.
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Aug 7, 2015 00:05
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Safety Dance posted:Stay away from: all This. Usually the cost of a warranty is about the amount needed for a good rainy day fund minus anything super expensive (engine or transmission exploding) and then your pretty much 2/3s the way there in terms of cost (figuring 3 grand for a rebuild)
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Aug 11, 2015 17:05
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That sounds expensive, but it depends on how far they have to dig to get at the cover to replace it. Personally, I'm cheap and lazy, I'd just monitor the oil level and add as needed. A quart of oil is... 5 bucks? Edit: hahahah this repair is gently caress you territory for a mechanic. 14 hours sounds high but reasonable. http://carspecmn.com/2004-2009-toyota-prius-timing-cover-oil-leak-wpictures/ BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 18:06
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I'd go to a reputable Indy shop for a second opinion.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:20
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Tommychu posted:GenIII SBC intake gaskets are generally reusable unless they're cracked/damaged/crusty right? I've got to do knock sensors on my 2000 LR4. eehhhhhhhh maybe. I would have one on hand before you do the job, I have had some pretty poo poo luck with gaskets lately.
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Aug 12, 2015 16:09
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go to gates website and look up the part number for the timing belt. as for the glue... heat and a scraper? Goo gone? I am lost on that one.
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Aug 12, 2015 21:16
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Been reading about hydrostatic transmissions for garden tractors... Find it fascinating. Is there any other good books or something that would go into a little more depth in regards to fluid based transmission/theory/etc? (Also learning about the voodoo inside automatics would be a bonus)
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Aug 14, 2015 05:23
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Don't forget - O2 sensors are wear items too.
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Aug 14, 2015 12:14
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Geirskogul posted:Which 110v HF welder was the only not-poo poo one for auto body use again? I can't find the posts about them. I just need to do some replacement body panels on the bus, and I'll be learning at the same time. The HF mig is only AC and flux core only. It has awful heat control. You really need a welder with DC and gas. Check out craigslist or spend about 350 (I got my Hobart for 350 - gas regulator, face shield, cart and a few accessories) and about 150-200 on a bottle. I know SiF has a chineseium real gear that works good too. But you need gas to make good repairs.
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Aug 15, 2015 02:56
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KING BONG posted:Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van. Sorry man. Mini van time.
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Aug 15, 2015 15:17
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Godholio posted:Minivans used to be garbage when your only engine options were horrible 1980s-designed 4-cylinders that could barely push a mower out of its own way or iron tank V6s that barely made more power. They still have the stigma of giving up on your hopes and dreams, but they're worlds better than they used to be. New Toyota Sienna's come with a pretty decent V6 and AWD. I am pretty sure its based off Carmy platform. I mean, compare today's SUV's and they look like mini vans with bigger wheels and suck more gas. Or just man up and get a Miata. Make 5 exciting trips instead of 1 boring trip!
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Aug 15, 2015 20:04
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If the car you are buying is from a dealer - make them pony up the money. On your own? I think car fax has a 30 day package so you can run multiple vins. Or chum up with a car dealer friend.
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Aug 18, 2015 02:55
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kid sinister posted:Anybody? Should I just clear it and see if it comes back? Clear it and see what happens. Might be a sign your ecu is making GBS threads itself, or a battery that's dying. Or it could just be a fluke.
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Aug 25, 2015 00:50
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LS1 is beyond superior. Its worth the cash difference.
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Sep 13, 2015 02:37
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InitialDave posted:Think about how good you are compared to the average muppet with a licence. Now think about the term "logarithmic scale". I see you spend quite a bit of time in America. We need people to honk at people on their smart phones on green lights. I am happy to provide this service.
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Oct 7, 2015 23:53
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Dubious posted:So I've decided to give my 07 Grand Prix away to a friend who is in dire need, rather than sell it. I have the title clear and in my name. However, the DMV information is hard to find in North Dakota to understand what I'd have to do. I'm not advocating any wrong doing, but you can "sell" your car to your friend for a very low amount and just pay a tiny amount of tax to keep it legal. Around here its $6.75 per $100, you need to transfer the title anyways, I'd just make out a bill of sale saying "I sold this car for 100 to this person etc"
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Nov 10, 2015 04:07
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Paradoxish posted:Make sure you check with the DMV or whatever wherever you live, though, because you can't always dodge out on sales tax. In CT, you pay sales tax at registration and the DMV will use either the bill of sale value or the NADA value, whichever is higher. Usually fly over state DMV laws are pretty lax - but this is good advice. I know Iowa doesn't bat an eye at sold price.
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Nov 10, 2015 06:27
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