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melon cat posted:Just following up on my smashed side-mirror. By a Haynes or Chilton manual. They're cheap on Ebay. I have to pull off the door panel on my car to take that trim piece off. And, once you get another mirror just spray paint them both black. That's what I did on my car when I got a non-matching salvage mirror. Nobody is the wiser.
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Feb 17, 2015 04:50
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Leroy Diplowski posted:I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other. I was looking at them but couldn't find a good one. Try looking up Geo Tracker reviews, same thing.
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Feb 22, 2015 23:27
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SperginMcBadposter posted:I want to try buying and mounting my own tires, but the wheels are non-OEM and I don't know their dimensions. Really easy on a... motorcycle. I don't know anybody/have never seen anybody mount their own car tires except for like... youtube videos of people doing truck tires, etc. Considering they need to be balanced after mounting, are you capable of that?
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Apr 10, 2015 21:24
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I don't remember if I posted this before. 95 Taurus with 139k on the 3 liter (had it a whole year now and the trans hasn't blown up yet, so shh about that.) Oil pressure light comes on intermittently at idle, goes away if I put in park or once I start accelerating. Car isn't low on oil. Think it's a sensor, just a worn out engine, or anything I should care too much about in a $700 car? It doesn't happen all the time, and when it does it's usually after 20+ miles of driving. Doesn't burn any noticeable oil or coolant, in fact it's been a surprisingly sturdy car.
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Oct 22, 2015 21:16
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Cached Money posted:How much do you have to pay for a recent (say '05-) Crown Vic with the P71 package stateside? There's usually a couple for sale heere in Sweden but I think the prices are inflated and I sort of want one in the future (read: when I'm not broke as a joke).  Here's a cap from Craigslist in the middle of the country.
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Oct 27, 2015 15:32
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Cowman posted:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361353056050?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I got one of these for my 95 hooptie a month ago, it's pretty cool-no more loving with a tape adapter at least. They go on sale for $16 every few hours it seems. Takes SD cards, mp3 players through the USB, bluetooth, has an EQ and a remote.
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Jun 17, 2016 13:15
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Nooner posted:How do I change the break light bulb in a 2013 nissan sentra I'm used to just like having a thing that you twist and pull out but like this poo poo has like some kinda metal plate covering it Are there some plastic nuts holding the assembly in? It took me a minute to figure this out yesterday when changing my brake lights in a completely different car. You take the nuts off then the whole assembly pops out if that's the case.
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Jul 5, 2016 05:45
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The internet won't give me a straight answer so maybe here will. Do I have to replace rotors (rear) in pairs? The good rotor is fine, one rotor is toast. '95 ford Taurus if it matters--and I drive like a sleepy grandma.
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Feb 15, 2017 22:28
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It's cool, I bought two rotors. Thanks.
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Feb 16, 2017 02:08
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Most places (like Autozone et al) will rent a tool that will make this job a hundred times easier. Or you can take the whole caliper off, put it in a bench vise, have one person push on the piston and another turn it with channel locks.. (Yes, it was a Ford also..) So rent that tool is what I'm saying.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:55
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96 Taurus 3l (blue) 143k miles (somehow.) As I asked the other week, I put new rotors on the back. I also replaced one of the calipers (the other caliper was replaced a month ago) and pads. The brakes are still making a dragging noise when braking. The internet told me to wait a week and it'd go away after they bed in, but it's still there (I don't really drive a lot though.) It does sometimes go away after driving a while. When pulling away after braking I can also hear the pad hitting the rotor.. ching ching chingchingchingching like the rotor's not 100% square to the pads on the passenger side. Yes, I checked that I somehow didn't tighten the lugnuts all the way (they were tight.) Also, one of the pistons (on the month old caliper, driver's side) was stuck today and was smoking when I got to my destination (it was fine when I drove home.) Fluid level is fine... is something jacked up in the lines somewhere or what? It was ran with low fluid for awhile because I'm an idiot until we fixed the leaking caliper last month. ABS still works, brakes were bled after replacing them last weekend. When changing the brakes we also noticed the sway bar links were broke on both sides, is that related? Thanks car bros/gals. Also I will note that my dad didn't believe you had to screw/push the pistons back in on the back brakes and put a lot of pressure on them trying to squeeze them in, could that have hosed them? (they didn't move until I explained the Hanes said you had to screw them.) I should probably take this car out and shoot it but I'd rather wait until the transmission blows up.
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Mar 1, 2017 05:20
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If you guessed someone (not me) put a loving brake pad on backwards you win. Yes I should've noticed sooner--but I didn't know what "new brake noise" (barely anything) sounds like compared to "metal on metal grinding."
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Mar 1, 2017 20:34
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:I saw a Kia (looked at least 10yrs old) driving around Oregon and want to figure out what model it was. It bore a strong resemblance to the Suzuki Jimny/Samurai or Geo Tracker, with a hard top on the cab but soft top on the bed, quite a small vehicle. Any guesses what model that would be? I just have a huge weakness for little k-car trucks. 1st gen Kia Sportage 3 door. Wikipedia says it had a 1 star crash rating. 
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Apr 14, 2017 02:01
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GobiasIndustries posted:I bought a used car in January, and one of the tires has a slow leak. I knew going into it that I'd need to replace them sooner rather than later but I'm not in a position to buy new ones quite yet. It seems to be leaking ~2 psi per week. If I bought something like: https://www.amazon.com/Slime-10009-Tubeless-Tire-Sealant/dp/B000BOC2E2 would that be an OK stopgap, and would it cause any problems when I eventually get all 4 tires replaced? Take the wheel off if it's in the back or just turn the front wheels full lock and spray down the leaking tire with sudsy water while rotating it. If you find the leak and it's in the tread you can get a $2 tire patch kit anywhere and plug it up. I've used them for thousands of miles on cars and motorcycles and they never fail.  Slime makes a mess everywhere and 50/50 works in my experience, and I'd hate to be the tire tech that has to replace a tire full of slime. Also spray your sudsy water on the valve stem, it might be leaking through there, which means you need to either tighten the valve inside of it up or replace the stem. If you find a puncture the sidewall the tire is toast.
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Apr 19, 2017 21:34
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My blinkers were acting up two days ago 'cause I accidentally set my drink on top of the hazard button (I think.) 95 Taurus 3l (blue, 145k) The relay was clicking double speed when the stem was in the neutral position. Hitting the brakes or jiggling with the turn signal switch helped. Then the relay was clicking so fast it sounded like BRRRP (again, in the neutral position with no signals activated.) This was all over the course of about 10 minutes driving home. After research, I learned that I might have a bad switch, but I also learned it might have to do with the hazard button. Investigating that, I think it was pushed down halfway for a while and that jacked it up. I pressed it a couple times and the signals worked again. Today, no turn signals at all. I think the brake lights, etc. work though. I'm assuming troubleshooting goes: fuse -> relay -> actual switch assembly, right? Do relays burn out if they're cycled too quickly? edit: Fuse is good, all other exterior lights work. edit2: I think I just got some drink condensation in the switches and they're gunked up, will take the thing apart this weekend and contact cleaner it. I jiggled it a lot and now the turn signals work with the hazard button pushed down (but not flashing all of them), lol. unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Sep 7, 2017 |
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Sep 7, 2017 22:12
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Good way to get a huge failson coolant stain off the asphalt road? I'm mostly fixed the leak but it was bad for a while and there is a big black spot. I tried Dawn and scrubbing with a deck brush but it didn't do much. I read on the internet Coke (-a-cola) might work. It might also have soaked into the asphalt too much.
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Nov 6, 2017 00:53
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I don't really read any other posts in the forum so I'll just leave this here: If someone needs new wiper blades the Bosch Icons are on clearance (at my closest Walmart at least) for $9. They're normally $15 at Walmart or $20 at an auto parts store. Their online site should tell you if they have any close to you.
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Nov 14, 2017 18:29
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Can someone help me confirm or deny if a 95 blue Ford Taurus 3L has a starter relay in addition to the solenoid on the actual starter motor? There is a procedure in the Haynes for testing the circuits, but it shows a separate relay on the diagram. I cannot find a starter relay inside the engine compartment. If I follow the S-wire from the starter it just goes into the wiring harness with everything else, not to a relay. So there is no relay right, and it's just the solenoid? I have followed these instructions: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-starter-motor-1 http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/ford/3.0L-3.8L/how-to-test-the-starter-motor-2 In part one I registered like 10.5 volts. In part two I registered around .05 volts. I tried the whole "hit the starter with something hard" method, and sometimes after hitting it a few times with a pipe, it almost turned over. Other than that it just clicks. I think the starter is bad, but the person helping me thinks we need to check the relay but I don't think it has one. Edit: There is also no relay for sale for the 95 3l Taurus.
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Nov 29, 2017 01:07
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Deteriorata posted:Those Taureses (Tauri?) use a Constant Control Relay Module for all the relays, so there is no individual starter relay. The CCRM is just to the right of the battery. It should have a big white label on it. You have to replace the whole thing at once. Cool, I saw that thing and figured it had too many wires to just be a starter relay. Thanks.
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Nov 29, 2017 02:46
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:It does sound like either the starter or relay. That 10.5 volts was measured from the S wire terminal on the starter to ground. The battery voltage from the battery terminals is around 12.7.
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Nov 29, 2017 14:34
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Welp, got my starter replaced the other day, but I have a problem that's been going on longer, and that problem is a coolant leak. CAR: 95 Taurus 3 liter, blue, 147k Have replaced the upper radiator tube, thermostat, made sure petcock on drain is tight but the poo poo seems to be coming through the drain. It's like when I shut off the car it spurts a puddle out of the drain. Is this a symptom of something else not working? Like it's building up so much pressure it's just blowing through something? It doesn't happen all the time. I don't get it and it's really annoying to leave a big puddle everywhere. And by big puddle I mean maybe a pancake sized splat right under the radiator drain. Then other times it's just 3-4 drops. The thing is if I fill up the reservoir it'll keep spurting it out until it's almost to the bottom--which makes one think that maybe something at that level is leaking but I don't know what the hell it could be. It's definitely not the water pump because it's on the other side of the car. The actual amount of coolant in the radiator seems fine and the car never overheats--it seems to just empty from the reservoir sometimes. I've got under there with a UV light and first found a drop coming from the upper hose, so I tightened that, (and eventually replaced the hose.) There was also some around the drain. I even broke down and tried putting some Bar's stop leaking poo poo in it which seemed to work for a few days but today I went somewhere and when I came back out to my car, boom, puddle. Only thing I can guess is the whole drain assembly is leaking and AFAIK that's not a replaceable part unless there's some strange Taurus specific thing I might me overlooking. Or, as I mentioned, something something radiator pressure. Maybe the line that goes to the reservoir is actually blowing it out? This reminds me of the BMW motorcycle I had that had a feature which drained gas onto the ground sometimes when you turned it off.
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Dec 6, 2017 03:16
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I'm gonna assume the radiator is original, so 20 years on it. Guess I'll just have to switch the drat thing out. We also pressure tested it with a rental tool from the store, when pressurized the system didn't noticeably leak anywhere.
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Dec 6, 2017 19:59
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 3l Duratec/05 Escape What is taped up, the MAP sensor? I'm not so good at reading diagrams and I haven't ordered the Haynes yet. Is there a generic quick connect I need to replace the tape(lol) with? Guy said the tab on the connect broke so he taped it 
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Jun 2, 2018 20:51
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Is it possible for normal a/c condensation to leak out slowly over many hours? I drove my 05 3L Duratec Escape this morning and got home around 9:00 AM, I take the dog for a walk at 5:00 pm and there is a little puddle where the a/c usually drips. It's been really humid and it rained in between those times which really confuses me more. It's 97 degrees and the dew point is 60 something at the moment. I mean the coolant is a light gold color so I could be misplacing a coolant leak it but when I dipped a piece of paper in the puddle there was no color to it so I'm guessing it's delayed condensation ejaculation? Just doesn't seem logical.
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Jun 27, 2018 00:05
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05 Ford Escape V6 Hi I'm having a hell of a time trying to figure out which O2 sensor I need. Got the P2270 code which is bank 1 sensor 2 (I understand it can be other issues, but most likely the sensor so I'll start with that.) Okay, cool I'll look for that part online because they cost twice as much at a parts store. Well, O2 sensors aren't listed as bank 1 sensor 2. It's downstream/upstream left/right/from/back. I think that bank 1 sensor 2 is downstream left on the Ford V6. But here's the confusion - many listings on Amazon list the right/left downstream sensors as the same. Or Rockauto will have parts that fit both or are specific for one sensor. Another site I read said the Escape has 4 unique O2 sensors. So, do I need the specific one or are there generic ones that work in both downstream spots? I've spent over an hour trying to figure this out now I will ask you. Thanks.
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Sep 13, 2020 16:18
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Thanks. I guess I'll just get the $35 one instead of guessing with all the 19.99 ones on Amazon.
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Sep 13, 2020 17:25
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STR posted:
Thanks. Installed that part today and the CEL turned off immediately. Was expecting to have to clear it out again then worry it'd turn back on but all is well after an hour of driving. Tuned/lowered Escape page snipe: 
unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Sep 16, 2020 |
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Sep 16, 2020 02:46
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05 Escape v6 Changing the dying water pump tomorrow. Do I have to buy G-05 coolant or can I buy the yellow coolant that works in "all vehicles" and "mixes with all coolants."
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Oct 18, 2020 19:13
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Hi I just want to update you because it's funny about my 06 Ford Escape v6 I posted a question about the other day. So, apparently what I thought was the water pump belt slipping was air escaping around a spark plug that was trying to escape. It actually escaped the other day. Just wondering how likely helicoiling it is to work? My dad's doing most of it because he's very mechanically inclined, so I'm not worrying too much about the skill/doing it right part. But is it going to hold? I've watched some haphazard videos and seems kinda sketchy about getting metal chips into the cylinder, but I have a borescope on the way so that should ameliorate those concerns. Other funny thing is we were going to change the spark plugs last week with all the other 150k maintenance but didn't feel like taking the intake manifold off at the time so we didn't. My dad even said "we can just replace the front three," which we didn't (one of the front three popped out.) Also, pay the $3 a month for roadside assistance, saved my rear end and I guess tighten your spark plugs once in awhile?
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Oct 22, 2020 04:10
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I don't think so (my knowledge is reading lots of things about using Helicoils the last few days - read lots of machinists using it in aluminum) If you're doing a spark plug , well, high-temp RTV doesn't really hold it and that's what the package says to use. Currently have red thread locker curing overnight like all the folks on Youtube say, so hopefully I can start the Escape up in the morning.
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Oct 25, 2020 01:17
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I mean I can record it tomorrow morning when we start it up. The RTV'd sleeve sunk down when screwing a spark plug into it (after 24 hours). So, we (my dad) took it out with an ez-out - it was in the combustion chamber... it had no friction from the RTV. Bought another sleeve at O'Reilly's and put it in this morning with thread locker. We'll see in about 10 hours.
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Oct 25, 2020 03:28
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unbuttonedclone posted:I mean I can record it tomorrow morning when we start it up. The RTV'd sleeve sunk down when screwing a spark plug into it (after 24 hours). So, we (my dad) took it out with an ez-out - it was in the combustion chamber... it had no friction from the RTV. Bought another sleeve at O'Reilly's and put it in this morning with thread locker. We'll see in about 10 hours. Thread locker held. Started it up and it was running really rough. gently caress I thought. Then my dad discovered one vacuum hose I forgot and now it's running good, which is why I have a supervisor when working on cars. I'll keep the thread updated if it fails. Edit: A rear brake cylinder is failing now, lol. I don't think Escapes are supposed to go past 150k. I'm determined to keep it though. unbuttonedclone fucked around with this message at 13:53 on Oct 25, 2020 |
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Oct 25, 2020 13:45
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05 Escape Heli-coil is holding so far. And vroom, new spark plugs added some power back. Adjusted and bled the brakes (put in two brake cylinders on the drums). Brake is just not stiff like a newer car though and it hasn't been for a long time. Do I need a new brake booster? It's just annoying it's not crisp. What else could it be? I adjusted the drums Sunday so it's slightly dragging but it's still not crisp. And don't have anywhere else to post this, so here's a V6 '05 Escape with 150k with the front valve cover off: 
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Nov 3, 2020 04:42
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What price point should I look for if I want to improve the stock basic-rear end sound in a 2000 Golf (2door) w/out the Monsoon? Amazon has $25/pair Pioneers, $50/pair Amazon brand, and then on up? I bought the 19.99 Bluetooth receiver at Walmart that's 200w/4 (which I think is more than the stock but I can take it back). I am willing to spend up to $200 to improve the sound system, bass is important. Do I have any options (sub, powered or not) or do I need more money (I know tons of car audio stuff is sold secondhand so I'm open to "go to a pawn shop" or "buy on Facebook" replies).
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Jul 28, 2021 05:53
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Okay, thanks. I'll go to that other thread.
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Jul 28, 2021 06:15
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Anyone happen to have an encyclopedic knowledge of Konig wheels and know what these are? I'd like to try to find the hubcaps. 
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Jul 31, 2021 02:52
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Anyone have any experience with MkIV (2000) Golf (other models probably the same) door locks? My FOB won't open the drivers door, I hear the motors click but doesn't push it enough to open it. I have not taken it apart yet because that seems pretty involved. My plan is to just throw a new door lock mechanism at it which seems to be about $70+. I couldn't find a straight answer through Google and I'm tired of manually locking and unlocking the door.
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Oct 18, 2021 14:39
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