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That would do it, that's a vacuum line for something like the brake booster, fuel pressure regulator or EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve. Not only would that allow unmetered air into the intake but whatever that vacuum line runs to would stop working, which is likely what was actually causing the problem. A vacuum leak that small shouldn't cause stalling like you described on its own.
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Feb 21, 2017 17:51
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geeves posted:I have a 97 M3 and getting a weird bit of "play" when I made slow turns. The last couple of days I noticed a bit of "lag" at times when turning the wheel and there is a bit of extra resistance - but nothing major. No sound, or any indication that something is out of place. But it feels wrong. I just had most of the front-end (tie rods, control arms, bushings) replaced a few months ago and have only put on about 350 miles since then. It could realistically be a big number of things but I would bet that it's related to the work you had done if they replaced that much hardware related to the steering. Could be crappy replacement parts, failing to tighten things down, or even some other old worn parts not getting along with the fresh ones. Do you know and trust the shop that did it? I'd take it back there and if they're decent folk and it's related they should cut you a break on fixing it. If you're feeling frisky and have a jack, there are lots of YouTube videos on checking tie rods and whatnot. But that's optional.
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Feb 21, 2017 18:02
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My nephew's 2002 camry xle (2.4L engine) wouldn't start up, he called AAA thinking it was a dead battery, but it wasn't. The AAA tower knocked on his starter 3 times with a hammer and was able to start the car. Based on this, does he need to change the starter? First and only time it has happened...
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Feb 21, 2017 22:36
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It will probably work fine for an indeterminate amount of time before needing to be smacked with a hammer again. He should replace it ASAP, its a question of when - not if - it leaves him stranded again.
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Feb 21, 2017 22:50
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Geoj posted:It will probably work fine for an indeterminate amount of time before needing to be smacked with a hammer again. Gotcha thanks
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Feb 21, 2017 23:21
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Geoj posted:A vacuum leak that small shouldn't cause stalling like you described on its own.  It looks to me like there's a much bigger port at the back/bottom of that piece, which would absolutely cause all sorts of issues to leave open. If I'm wrong, and it's just that top port that goes anywhere, then you're right that it's probably due to whatever that bit is not being plugged in, rather than the vac leak it would cause.
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Feb 21, 2017 23:38
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Mister Fister posted:My nephew's 2002 camry xle (2.4L engine) wouldn't start up, he called AAA thinking it was a dead battery, but it wasn't. The AAA tower knocked on his starter 3 times with a hammer and was able to start the car. Based on this, does he need to change the starter? First and only time it has happened... I'd bet heavy on it needing a starter but u can check if the battery terminals are loose check condition of the possitive and negative cables and make sure they are making good connections with minimal corrosion to the starter and the body of the car respectfully.
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Feb 22, 2017 04:04
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Raluek posted:
I'm thinking that larger hose is related to PCV. The newer MAF based Honda ECUs (such as a K24 Accord) definitely get pissy about that being disconnected. The MAF sits right next to the air filter housing, so something like that would cause a large unmetered leak. Older MAP based Hondas didn't care nearly as much; they'd just get a bouncing idle if they had a vacuum leak, and didn't even notice if you removed everything before the throttle body. At most you'd get a CEL for the intake air temp sensor missing, and the 4 cylinders didn't even get those until 96+ models. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:14 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 04:11
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 (J30A1) and the idle revs after a warm start are really low. Cold start it idles around 1000, maybe 1100. Warm start, it idles 300-500 and sometimes stalls. I have to give it some gas after it turns over when warm just to keep it around 1000 for a few seconds so it doesn't stall or surge. It's always idled fairly low on a warm start but in the past couple weeks it's been low enough to stall. I wouldn't be super worried about it, but I need to do a driving exam soon since I haven't done one since I first got my license and would like to get these "new driver" restrictions taken off, and any kind of mechanical issue like that could be taken by the examiner to mean that the vehicle is unsafe. Any idea where to start with this? I don't really have any room to work on the car -- I live in an apartment building -- but if I knew what it's likely to be it'd be handy so I could get a rough feel as to how much of a pain it'll be to get fixed.
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Feb 22, 2017 08:33
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Preparing to do my first ever brake service on my 2007 Nissan Altima. I have some basic tools already but here's the shopping list I came up with from AutoZone. Anything obvious missing? 
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Feb 22, 2017 15:10
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Stupid question: What's the typical wire thickness for stuff like temp sensors? The terminal connector uses 1.5mm pins, so I am guessing that 1.5mm wire is the right choice?
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Feb 22, 2017 15:17
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Kazinsal posted:Any idea where to start with this? I don't really have any room to work on the car -- I live in an apartment building -- but if I knew what it's likely to be it'd be handy so I could get a rough feel as to how much of a pain it'll be to get fixed. Is it throwing any codes on OBD II? The Ferret King posted:Preparing to do my first ever brake service on my 2007 Nissan Altima. I have some basic tools already but here's the shopping list I came up with from AutoZone. Anything obvious missing? The brake bleeder kit you have there is for bench bleeding a master cylinder. If you're going to bleed your brakes as part of a pad swap, you just need some hose and a bottle to collect the fluid if you have a friend to help you pump brakes. Also I'd bet rockauto comes out waaay cheaper for the rotors.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:45
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The Ferret King posted:Preparing to do my first ever brake service on my 2007 Nissan Altima. I have some basic tools already but here's the shopping list I came up with from AutoZone. Anything obvious missing? Looks good but I'll echo IOC about the little bleeder kit. Shouldn't need that. Something you'll need to be aware of is having to push the pistons back into the calipers. On the fronts, you can usually do with with a larger C-clamp and one of the old pads. I don't know how it is on your car, but sometimes the rear pistons need to be turned back in. Haynes manuals and the like usually say you can turn them in with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I don't know if it's just my luck or the Fords I was working on, but I could never get it done with the pliers. Most places (like Autozone et al) will rent a tool that will make this job a hundred times easier.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:51
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Most places (like Autozone et al) will rent a tool that will make this job a hundred times easier. Or you can take the whole caliper off, put it in a bench vise, have one person push on the piston and another turn it with channel locks.. (Yes, it was a Ford also..) So rent that tool is what I'm saying.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:55
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The Ferret King posted:Preparing to do my first ever brake service on my 2007 Nissan Altima. I have some basic tools already but here's the shopping list I came up with from AutoZone. Anything obvious missing? I wouldn't bother with the hardware kits, personally. Also, I like caliper grease like this one just make sure you don't get any on the rotors. Get more than 1 can of brake cleaner too. If you're planning on doing your brake fluid, you might need a bit more than that. Look at the Motive pressure bleeder, I have one and it makes bleeding brakes a breeze!
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Feb 22, 2017 16:00
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Usually, your more expensive pad sets come with hardware. And the brake pads will be made of a pad compound that will last longer and perform better. Also, use rockauto.
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Feb 22, 2017 16:18
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In addition to the comments above, I'm not sure organic pads are the best for your ride. It seems that usually standard for older cars (ie, my '66 uses organic), while newer vehicles (80s+) use semi-metallic or ceramic. I'd recommend double-checking that you're not throwing money at pads that are going to last 3 weeks.
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Feb 22, 2017 17:35
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Kazinsal posted:I have a 1999 Honda Accord V6 (J30A1) and the idle revs after a warm start are really low. Cold start it idles around 1000, maybe 1100. Warm start, it idles 300-500 and sometimes stalls. I have to give it some gas after it turns over when warm just to keep it around 1000 for a few seconds so it doesn't stall or surge. It's always idled fairly low on a warm start but in the past couple weeks it's been low enough to stall. Idle air control valve is probably gummed up. Remove it and clean it, or replace it. I'm not sure where it is on the J30; I'd assume it's just behind the throttle body, but I've never worked on or owned a J30. I know on other Honda engines, they're not that bad to clean, so long as you remove any o-rings before hitting them with chemicals. The o-rings will swell up if they get hit with most cleaners. What happens if you start it with the air conditioner on? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 18:25
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Yeah pads with hardware kits were all Ceramic from AZ Or Oreilleys. I need to do it this weekend so I'm probably going to buy retail. I can spend extra and go ceramic I just didn't know if that was typical for a daily driver. It'll be quite a bit more. Thanks for the info on the bleed kit. Yeah I was just planning on letting a little out when pushing the piston back in, so that's what I was browsing for. I wasn't planning on doing a fluid bleed / change.
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Feb 22, 2017 18:29
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See if you have an Advance Auto Parts in your area. If you do, order online for in-store pickup, and use Google to find coupon codes (you can also sign up for their SpeedPerks, which usually gives you a coupon as well). Some of the coupons can even be stacked. I've managed almost half off like that before - at the least, there's almost always a $40 off $100+ purchase coupon floating around.
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Feb 22, 2017 18:30
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There are several. They look identical to the other two retailers at a quick glance. You're saying they're just normally cheaper and have coupons?
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Feb 22, 2017 18:32
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Online coupons, yeah. You have to place the order online for in-store pickup, and apply them during checkout. You can try to apply multiple coupons too, but they've cut down on which ones can be stacked. The store gets the order right away, and generally has it ready in 30-60 minutes. This page generally has a lot of their coupons. You can always try applying various combos to get the best price. e: looks like they're giving a $30 off coupon out right now if you spend at least $80, just for signing up for Speedperks. They have a referral program where someone gets  for referring you too, but I'm not sure how kosher it would be for me to post my referral link in here.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 18:40
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Ok cool. You can always PM me as well I'll go with ceramics and tweak my shopping list. Thanks guys.
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Feb 22, 2017 19:14
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spog posted:Stupid question: What's the typical wire thickness for stuff like temp sensors? Anything, even 0.5mm is fine for sensor wiring. There's no real current flowing.
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Feb 22, 2017 19:24
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Sweevo posted:Anything, even 0.5mm is fine for sensor wiring. There's no real current flowing. ta
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Feb 22, 2017 19:25
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The Ferret King posted:I'll go with ceramics and tweak my shopping list. Thanks guys. Ceramics are definitely worth it - if nothing else, because you won't have to touch them again for a long time. FWIW, the pads I have now are some wholesaler closeout ceramics from Rockauto that I put on around 100k (they were about $7). I'm at 163k now, and I'm pretty sure I can get another 10-20k out of them.
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Feb 22, 2017 19:27
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TheFrailNinja posted:In an ideal scenario, I imagine you would hear/see the car be hit and then you'd see the perpetrator drive off in front of the car. I live on a one-way street so I think in this case, if the camera was on (which is a big "if"), it would be pretty fantastic evidence. You're right though. I'll pursue this to reasonable ends, see if my insurance covers it, confront the guy personally and then shut the case. Wait several months and then bust out one or more of his windows during a rainstorm in the dead of night. I mean don't do that because that would be illegal. big trivia FAIL posted:Just to update: The first place was tired of the car coming back with an oil leak again and decided to replace all remaining seals and gaskets that could leak oil. The new place is not sure because there is so much schmoo all over the outside of the engine from the last 80k miles. Either dump some UV dye in the oil and run it for a few days then look for the green fluorescent mess with a UV flashlight, or steam clean the engine and then drive it a few days and look for new oil leakage. Don't get near the spark plug wiring and ignition coil/distributor (if equipped), or the throttle position sensor, and in fact try to stay away from the wiring and mostly on the engine block with the steam cleaner. Also, check if your PCV valve or hoses are plugged because if the seals are getting a little old and the PCV valve gets gooped up or stuck shut, the slight blowby all engines have is going to start pushing oil out of the easiest spot it can. front seal wouldn't surprise me if it's leaking. rear seal is either leaking, or "we're replacing both while we're in there" (they probably have to pull the engine to do it) and oil pan gasket is a cheap part and often leaks, and is super easy and fast to do with the engine out already for the other seals. oil pressure switch, who knows, if it's near the filter maybe someone bashed it doing an oilchange recently? Or they're spitballing. Pomp and Circumcized posted:How the gently caress do I find flywheels that would fit on my car? I know the bolt diameter and PCD, and the ring gear diameter and teeth. Is there any resource online to translate this into a list of compatible flywheels? You can try looking in a flywheel manufacturer's catalog or website for a chart of flywheels with all that data for each one but it's going to be a royal pain in the dingus and most of them don't provide that info in that format, they give make-model-year-engine-transmission charts instead. I would start by googling for "flywheel <tooth count> teeth" and sift through the results, then look those flywheels (or vehicle donors) up on rockauto and see what info is listed in the detail pages. It's a pain in the rear end. You can also look at what other vehicles use your engine and related design engines, and look those up on rockauto till you find a flywheel that matches what you need. dyne posted:I noticed recently that the two ground straps on the underside of my engine have corroded into basically nothing (I live in NY, lotsa road salt) I would just replace them with new ground straps again. By the time they corrode to pieces for the second time, the chassis is likely to be a lost cause anyways. an skeleton posted:I moved to a new state about 4 months ago. Right before I left, I sold my car to someone (an ex-coworker who sent me 2 payments spaced about a month apart). I signed the title etc. and he promised to go file the paperwork. Everything I had read online re: my state's procedures lead me to believe that things were kosher and that it was his responsibility from that point on. This sounds like Not Your loving Problem to me. Keep any paperwork you have showing that you sold the car. If/when the police call and say "hey your car is impounded", it means he got caught without it properly registered/insured and it got towed to impound. Your choices at that point are: - laugh, tell them it's not your car anymore, call him and tell him to get his loving car out of impound and properly register it - laugh, tell them it's not your car anymore, let them figure it out and it'll probably end up at a junkyard or auction eventually if he doesn't spring it from car jail fast enough - laugh, hire a tow truck and get your free car out of impound Platystemon posted:Have you driven it to empty and verified those two gallons actually exist, or are you going by the amount it takes when you fill it up? Mind blown, I had no idea priuses had a bladder in the fuel tank. EightBit posted:My 2000 Jeep Wrangler has given me a few concerning instances of not charging immediately upon starting the engine today. Dash cluster voltmeter dropped to 0 once even. Shutting down the engine and starting it back up brought the voltmeter back up to 12, where it lingers upon startup for almost a minute now before the alternator kicks back in and the cluster voltmeter shows ~13V. Confirmed this with a multimeter on the battery terminals. I bet the brushes in your alternator that get power from the back of the alternator onto the spinning rotor so it can run the field winding are getting close to worn out. Tap the back of the alternator near the center gently with a ratchet or screwdriver handle next time it happens, see if the problem goes away. There is no diode for the field winding in 91-?? (at least mid 00s, maybe later) jeeps, it's powered by the ASD relay output and a ground side switch MOSFET inside the ECU. Also, you can buy the parts to fix your alternator for probably less than fifteen bucks on aspwholesale.com or wagneralt.com and it only takes a few minutes once you have extricated it from the vehicle. You Are A Elf, put a low pass or pi network RFI filter on the power wiring to your radio. Ignition noise is going to be wide spectrum RF, and all you want getting through that wire is DC power, so you really just want to block anything above a few hundred or a few thousand Hz basically. Thief posted:x-post from flannel chat: The rear driveshaft from a forester has a slip yoke and the rear output seal on the trans rides on the slip yoke, not the shaft. What this means is it is going to piss trans oil everywhere until you either put a driveshaft in it like you should, or stop driving it. If you keep that poo poo up it is going to catch on fire so knock it off. cr0y, tell the NTB guy to stop hiring idiots and that if you don't end up with a replacement engine in your car, you'll be (1) hiring a lawyer and (2) appearing in their driveway with the local news channel in tow to give them your story of how they hosed up your car's engine and kept screwing you around. A compression test for this is kinda like testing someone's lung capacity after accidentally letting them bleed out and lay on your hospital floor for ten minutes with no pulse. I'd normally accept a good condition junkyard motor as a replacement, but it's a freakin 3 year old car, that's practically new. Pomp and Circumcized posted:I need to empty a cars AC system. It runs R134a. I want to be environmentally responsible and recover the refrigerant (and also because you can't buy it easily/at all? in the UK). This won't work - all you'll do is take up several cans worth of vapor at the system pressure. It won't suck the liquid out, unfortunately. Bring it to a shop and have them pull the refrigerant out with their machine, since they aren't putting it in or checking for leaks or anything else, showing up at lunchtime with a sixer or a pizza might get it done, especially if you bring it back to them for the (paid) recharge afterward. At least here in the US, they just evac it and assume it's R134a. Mister Fister posted:My nephew's 2002 camry xle (2.4L engine) wouldn't start up, he called AAA thinking it was a dead battery, but it wasn't. The AAA tower knocked on his starter 3 times with a hammer and was able to start the car. Based on this, does he need to change the starter? First and only time it has happened... Replace or rebuild that starter immediately. It will work until the worst possible moment, then leave you unable to start the car when you're 90 miles from east bumfuck in the middle of a blizzard.
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Feb 23, 2017 00:03
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Orthogonal to the previous discussion about brakes, what does the inside of a brake caliper that needs to be pressed and turned at the same time look like? What's the mechanism that makes that necessary?
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Feb 23, 2017 02:30
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The piston will look a little different. One example:  Another example:  First one is from a Ford Contour (I think), second one is from a Honda. You can often turn them back in with pliers (or in the case of the second photo, a bigass screwdriver works fine), but it's best to use a tool meant for the job so that you don't accidentally gouge the dust boot. I've personally gone with the bigass screwdriver method on a Honda (91 Integra) and it worked fine. But the proper tool is part of the loan a tool program at AutoZone. e: I've never encountered that style on front brakes, only rear. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 03:55
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I've always just used c clamps
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Feb 23, 2017 04:32
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C clamps work on normal calipers but on a rear caliper with a parking brake built in the piston spins as it travels out so the lever action of the parking brake cable can push the pads against the rotor. You have to turn them while pushing in. I've always used a cube tool in this application.
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Feb 23, 2017 04:41
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The piston will look a little different. I know what they look like, I've worked on dozens of cars that have them. I'm wondering what the mechanism inside the caliper that needs to be turned in looks like. Like, is there a threaded shaft that the piston needs to ride up as it goes in?
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Feb 23, 2017 04:46
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Feb 23, 2017 04:51
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Also the reason it's threaded afaik is so the parking brake works without hydraulic pressure. That was a bit of a revelation for me when I found that out.
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Feb 23, 2017 09:54
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Ah, interesting. My Veloster has an external parking brake. When you redo the pads it unscrews underneath the console to reset
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Feb 23, 2017 13:25
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kastein posted:I bet the brushes in your alternator that get power from the back of the alternator onto the spinning rotor so it can run the field winding are getting close to worn out. Tap the back of the alternator near the center gently with a ratchet or screwdriver handle next time it happens, see if the problem goes away. There is no diode for the field winding in 91-?? (at least mid 00s, maybe later) jeeps, it's powered by the ASD relay output and a ground side switch MOSFET inside the ECU. Also, you can buy the parts to fix your alternator for probably less than fifteen bucks on aspwholesale.com or wagneralt.com and it only takes a few minutes once you have extricated it from the vehicle. Worn brushes could definitely be a problem. It works just fine for now, after removing it for testing and reinstalling it, which requires some gentle tapping with a hammer to get it back on its bracket. It made some disconcerting noises on the tester and sometimes I can hear it with the engine running, like a bearing is going bad. It spins freely in my hand, but that's without the side load from belt tension. I'll have to look up the pieces for a rebuild kit to see if they include bearings. I know that the PCM drives the primary winding. There is a diode pack to turn the alternating current into direct current, which is what I was worried about.
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Feb 23, 2017 15:46
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kastein posted:This won't work - all you'll do is take up several cans worth of vapor at the system pressure. It won't suck the liquid out, unfortunately. Bring it to a shop and have them pull the refrigerant out with their machine, since they aren't putting it in or checking for leaks or anything else, showing up at lunchtime with a sixer or a pizza might get it done, especially if you bring it back to them for the (paid) recharge afterward. Thanks, but the car doesn't have an engine or even a front sub frame any more,so I'm stuck looking to buy a £££ recovery machine to use once.None of the mobile AC techs in my area will touch it.
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Feb 23, 2017 15:54
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What's the easiest way to remove inspection stickers from a windshield? I've moved from a state that puts them on the left to a state that has them in the middle, and the inspection station didn't remove my old ones. Can I just go at it with a razor blade, or is there an easier way?
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Feb 23, 2017 17:14
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Goo gone and hand razorblade tool
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Feb 23, 2017 17:19
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Use zippo fluid if you have it handy. Just let the car air out before sparking a crack torch in the car.
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Feb 23, 2017 17:40
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