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Need a replacement battery for a 2003 350z touring. Are interstate batteries good these days? If not who is a good manufacturer? Some brief googling leads me to believe that Costco interstate batteries are not actually interstate or are lower quality. Any truth to that?
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May 24, 2016 16:39
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canyoneer posted:I'm replacing my tires on my Scion tC. It's a boring commuter car for me. That rating is for the top speed of the tire not it's grip.
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May 29, 2016 01:17
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I'm looking at brz / ft86 / frs etc as a new or possibly used car. They don't seem to have any massive issues from a quick google search, have I missed anything?
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Jul 29, 2017 22:32
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Helping my dad pick tires for his 2003 350z touring. It's sitting on 225/45-18s front and 245/45-18s in the back. Wheels are rpf1s, 18x8.5 +30mm offset front and 18x9.5 +15mm offset rear. I was thinking 245/40-18 and 275/40-18 Michelin pilot sports but am worried about rubbing. Stock suspension, no desire to lower it or roll the fenders. Searching the internet says it's fine but I have little faith in other car forums. Anyone in ai with a 350z who could chime in or know someone I could pm?
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Oct 4, 2018 01:07
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My cousins 2013 kia forte ex just blew up. Looks like a common issue, and the dealers quoting 7k for a 85k mile engine installed. Anyone have a good source for used kia engines or remans that aren't horrible? I know where to go for say honda engines but kias aren't my area.
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May 24, 2022 23:16
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bergeoisie posted:So you'd recommend something like this BMW M one day class instead? I think Porsche has something similar too? There's tons of them, some manufacturer specific, a lot based at a home track. Performance driving school would be a good search term. https://www.skipbarber.com/ https://midohio.com/courses/high-performance/3-day-high-performance-course For examples. Given a choice between a Ferrari on the street and a track day in a Ford Taurus I'd do the track day.
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May 26, 2022 00:49
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STR posted:Contact Kia corporate. There's an active recall on a whole slew of Hyundai and Kia engines for knocking/blowing up/failing/etc. The dealer should know drat well about the recall, I'm sure they've done dozens, if not hundreds, of them by now. They don't LIKE doing them because (a) they don't get paid as much for warranty/recall work and (b) they have to build the engines there, I don't think Kia supplies an assembled long block to them. So long as your cousin has kept good records of oil changes and maintenance, Kia should take care of him. Very aware of the recall but they did not stay on top of the maintenance. This is also thr main issue with just swapping it. I can find junkyard engines for 1500-2500 but it seems high risk of the same thing again. Rebuilds are available but for example a 3k advanced auto one has a maximum $500 for warranty labor for a professional shop and $250 max for diy. Lol.
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May 29, 2022 21:56
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I forget who but someone in AI has one that's their tow and rally support vehicle and is a big fan of it.
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Jun 10, 2022 03:27
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Our 2014 Prius C suspension is shot but I did not realize how bad it was until driving a friends that was like driving a cloud. On suspension replacements at a shop, what is typically replaced? I know you can buy just the strut or the entire assembly. Is just the strut typically replaced and the coil kept? Is the cost minor and I shouldn't worry about replacing the entire thing? We only have 70k miles on it. What other parts of the suspension replacement should be done as long as we're doing this? What can we skip? Anything that will try to get upsold we can avoid? Mechanics love quick struts (shock and spring combo pre assembled). They're more $ than just shocks but often thats made up in reduced labor. I'd want to look under the car before ordering parts. Take it to a couple shops, tell them what you told us and that you'd like it inspected and an itemized quote. If they don't want to do that find another shop. If they want to charge an hour labor for the inspection that's fair. Ask that it's applied as a credit if you bring it back to them for the repairs. Post quotes.
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Jun 21, 2022 23:53
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BlackMK4 posted:Anyone have a recommendation for / experience with some kind of sheet metal formable type of heat shielding? I'm looking to put a few rivnuts into the rail and have it mostly support itself. Bent aluminum with that gold reflective sticker usually works pretty well.
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Jun 22, 2022 17:44
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Inner Light posted:What I have heard on these here forums and Reddit is that the majority of shops use ugga duggas / dak daks with absolutely no limiter or torque wrench for putting wheels on. Does this jive with what others know to be the Truth In Reality, even at dealer service departments? It's really down to the individual mechanics. If you're flat rate and think you're cool you ugga dugga. If you belive torque sticks work you ugga dugga dugga. If it's your first job you do what youre told / what the people around you do. He did the job quickly and the customer hasn't complained = good employee until its a problem.
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Jun 25, 2022 02:59
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Feral Integral posted:What should I buy for like 20-25k something smallish and/or hatchbackey, OK on gas and still a little sporty and quick? Used to drive a manual Honda fit which I really enjoyed until it was destroyed by a wild beast. Always wanted a turbo but gas prices are making me rethink that. Test drove a 2018 mazda 3 touring which had that quickness i like but I wasnt a fan of the dinky feeling entertainment console or the boring interior If you're cool with 2 seats a miata or brz/ft86/frs. I went for the brz and it's avg 25mpg combined and 5 years in I still love it. Head unit suckkkks is my only complaint.
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Jul 1, 2022 01:55
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Anonymous Robot posted:I’m having a very intermittent but troublesome problem with my 2013 Toyota Camry. It’s an older car but has rather low mileage at 65,000 and is in good maintenance without other known issues. I think this problem correlates with the temperature, because both times that it’s occurred it’s been over 90 degrees out, but I can’t say that for certain. Some quick googling suggests a possible fuel pump issue. I searched "camry crank no start when hot" A couple easy tests. See if you can hear the fuel pump wirrr for a couple seconds when you turn the key to the run position but don't start it. If you can, next time it dies repeat that test. Option b, have something flammable in a can in the car. Brake clean works well. When it dies find a place after the maf on the air intake where you can spray some in. Then crank. If it sputters and sounds like it's trying to start its a fuel issue.
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Jul 2, 2022 23:25
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diadem posted:So, I'm an idiot and went through one of those touchless car washes and chose the "hot wax" option. Now there's a bunch of bubbles of cold wax on my windshield that is annoying in certain light conditions that I can't just spray off with a garden hose/squeeze/etc. Is there an easy way to fix this that won't damage my windshield or take forever (even if it's something as simple as 409)? Glass is extremely hard to hurt chemically. Brake clean, acetone, alcohol etc should all work fine. Just keep it off the paint. Wet the rag or paper towels and then rub the glass. This will gently caress up tint so exterior use only. If that doesn't work use a razor blade.
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Jul 18, 2022 01:26
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Also safe to drive is up to you. Not enough info on our end. If it starts pull hard or feel like somethings flopping around stop and get a tow. It will be both safer and usually cheaper to fix vs limping it to failure. Also great time to make sure your spare has the correct air pressure. Flat + flat spare sucks.
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Jul 24, 2022 02:29
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Duuk posted:Found out today that Hyundai/Kia are involved in a class action suit over engine oil consumption. Maybe but the one I've recently dug into was the theta engine. It's a poo poo show. Like I could buy my cousins blown up 07 kia for $500 to swap and flip but people need engines so badly that the price has gotten ridiculous. Do you have one and are worried or are you looking at one? If you're looking walk away. They're currently in deny everything to prevent more class actions and recalls mode. Be extra careful if used. Kia corporate told my cousin that as the second owner she got half warranty for milage. That 100k limit was now 50k iirc. It popped just over 100k but "you weren't a little over warranty you 50k past it" I've got this thread bookmarked after kramering in here with kia wtf questions.
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Jul 31, 2022 23:54
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STR posted:The class action lawsuit turned that into a lifetime engine warranty, so long as it doesn't show signs of neglect (and they can show proof of maintenance). Cousin with the help of her dad, and me providing technical support went a few rounds with the local dealer, nada. Then a few rounds with kia the corporation. It was looking good there for a bit. Not an instant no, sent maintenance records etc. Got elevated to a higher level and that's when the half warranty poo poo came up. Got a firm NO. They're talking to a lawyer but the lack of updates makes me think its over. I think they're going honda next. honda whisperer fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 1, 2022 |
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Aug 1, 2022 01:02
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Could be a dead cell or a bad connection in the battery. Voltage is fine but it falls on its face when you try to crank. This is often the cause when jumping fixes it. Were the terminals clamps clean? That's another cause. If you're grounding to the chassis or engine when jumping it can also be a rusty ground bolt. hosed up new battery is always possible.
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Aug 2, 2022 22:42
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I've got a battery tender I use for this, the really cheap $30 one and it's great. You get quick disconnect pigtails for them. I have one wired to my accord with the business end hanging out the front bumper. Keeps it topped up without losing all the clock and radio settings etc.
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Aug 7, 2022 16:24
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Hadlock posted:If it's 95F how long does it take a 4 cyl 2L engine to come up to temp A surprisingly long time. Driving a car with aftermarket oil and water temp gauges vs the stock temp gauge about 3x when your dash says normal. Weather will effect that too. Uthor posted:Don't think it's a problem but: https://youtu.be/CQGW46B6x_4 Basically your car hit the spot where you can see your breath in the winter, it's fine.
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Aug 8, 2022 13:34
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I think early miatas did have okish oil pressure gauges and they got updated to idiot gauges after a sea of complaints. And yeah putting good ones in cars always turned into a week of calls "omg it did this is it ok what happened"
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Aug 8, 2022 18:58
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General_Disturbed posted:I will assume I got a bad master cylinder then and replace the one I already replaced with another one and hope that is the fix. As I said I cannot see how the system could possibly have a leak unless it's the tiniest little hole imaginable. It hasn't lost a drop of fluid since we replaced the master cylinder like 2 weeks ago. And I just replaced the front rotors/pads before that and saw no leaks there. Considering the amount of pressure loss I'm getting I would assume it would be a major leak losing a constant amount of fluid if it somehow had one I haven't seen. Your master is actually 2 masters in one assembly. Modern setups run the brakes as 2 systems so a single failure won't take the whole thing out. If it leaks between the two chambers inside the fluid isn't lost but you will get that steady pressure drop.
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Aug 9, 2022 20:02
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General_Disturbed posted:Yes I wasn't clear. I mean I don't see how the system could be leaking -outside- the car. As it's not losing any fluid that I can see. It's the same level in the reservoir as when we installed it 2 weeks prior. And the previous master cylinder I took off wasn't losing fluid either. So it has to be something internal. As the system appears to not be losing fluid. And I don't see how a tiny leak could be causing this great a loss of pressure, if it did have a pinpick hole in a line or something somewhere. A super tiny leak would cause this effect. Your brakes work at very high pressures and even a tiny leak will be felt quickly at the pedal. So the master is two different cylinders generating pressure in line with each other.  Basically if the very left seal fails you get brake fluid leaking by your feet. All the rest and you get your symptoms. Your booster just multiplies pedal force. Removing or not having a booster is common in race cars and really old stuff. But getting 100% out of the brakes takes a couple hundred pounds of force on the pedal. The phrase "stand on the brakes" can be taken literally to mean pick your rear end up out of the seat with nothing but force on the brake pedal. And the whole system should be cool with that. Your booster just turns 20lbs force into that 200lbs. Actually describe your symptoms again. Iirc the pedal sinks under braking and then braking performance falls off. It is restored when you pump the brakes. Does the pedal sink halfway or all the way? If halfway does standing on the pedal make it brake more? I could see losing booster assistance behaving like failing braking performance. But usually that presents as a very stiff pedal, needs a lot of force to stop. Best test. Car off and parked, pump up the brakes. Stand on the pedal. Does it sink slowly now? If yes look to the master.
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Aug 10, 2022 04:15
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PainterofCrap posted:Either bad piston seal(s) in the master allowing bleed-through, crap in the bore, or you have a little air in the lines somewhere...although the air issue would have shown up immediately after you installed the new master/bled the brakes. And also just be spongy all the time. Good luck with the new master. Q
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Aug 10, 2022 14:44
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General_Disturbed posted:Quick Question: My new master cylinder has arrived. And in the 'secondary' tank that I don't have access to, it has what looks like a big round plastic piece sitting free in the tank rattling around. Is this something normal? The one I just put on that was faulty definitely didn't have this. Maybe a weird level sensor? Idk I've never seen anything like that.
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Aug 11, 2022 00:41
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Drive it, jack up that corner (or the whole rear end if you have a lsd) and try to spin it by hand. Hot and smells bad is pretty damning though. This would be more of a confirmation than a oh cool it's OK test. Do you use the parking brake? Part of that system locking up could cause the same symptoms. If you do you could stop using it and see if the symptoms quit.
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Aug 16, 2022 01:33
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So any one part of the ebrake locking up can cause issues. On most cars it's like the brakes on a bicycle. Steel cable pull style. Once any chunk is rusty enough you can overcome the rustyness in applying it but it won't release. Generally if you use it all the time its fine but hitting it after years of non use causes an instant cluster gently caress. Either way once it gets jammed up in the ebrake applied state it makes the brakes drag until they wear down or it releases. You can force it to release by pulling off the drum and manually adjusting it. That's a pain. It's normally the cables that cause the problem but not always. Most mechanics wind up with a don't touch the ebrake in any car that isn't yours burned into their soul after a bad experience or two.
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Aug 16, 2022 02:52
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Maybe? It was doing the same thing after I messed up doing the other rear brake before I just took it to the shop. That's awesome. The problem is at least narrowed down quite a lot. Usually a siezed cable makes getting the drum off a total nightmare. Have you used the parking brake since? The problem will normally pop right back up if you do. Options would be quit using the parking brake or the other is replace the cables. It's kind of a pain and there will probably be some broken bolts. It's a fairly simple system so you don't necessarily have to get any snapped bolts out but will want to put some kind of support near where they broke. P clips or zip ties would be fine. Just need the cables to not drag or rub anything they shouldn't. Functional vs restoration math on that one.
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Aug 19, 2022 00:57
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SeANMcBAY posted:It was recharged about 3 months ago because while it was cooling, it wasn’t cooling very well. No other AC service has been done as far as I know. The AC works fine right now, it’s just the dust whenever I put the fan to max for the first time in the day. Are you sure it's dust and not just water vapor? If you full blast the fan but ac off does it still happen?
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Aug 22, 2022 23:31
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Corla Plankun posted:I've got a 2010 Nissan Frontier with a bunch of aftermarket poo poo on it from the PO. They were installed by a professional installer but I think he might have been an idiot, because when the PO went back to complain about "random beeping" from the kenwood/garmin console the installer was like "idk man maybe a ground loop or something" (the thing was beeping on purpose, a "speed warning" that I found and disabled within hours of owning the car). Alternators are not designed to bring drained batteries back to life. Once in a blue moon is fine but every 2 weeks will wear it out. The viper probably has an option for a fuel pump disconnect. That doesn't mean it was hooked up though. Pull it's fuse and try to start it. You'll know real quick. There should be 1 or more inline fuses in the wiring coming out of its black box. Putting it on a trickle charger will work great. My beater sits long enough to have a similar issue and it's on a trickle charger right now. If you do want to find the parasitic draw this is awesome. https://www.amazon.com/ESI-310-Fuse...la-492421492984 Car off, pull a fuse, pluh it in. It will show how many amps its pulling. Makes narrowing down the general thing (radio or alarm or other) pretty easy. Why that thing is the drain will still suck though. It's probably the alarm.
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Aug 27, 2022 00:10
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Sipher posted:Hey all - I'd skuff them up with some coarse sandpaper by hand. The transfer layer is pretty tough so you'll have to lean on it.
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Aug 31, 2022 23:09
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RadioPassive posted:2007 Ford focus, I replaced the same rear wheel bearing myself two times in 12,000 miles, and it’s making noise again. What causes wheel bearings to fail early? Agree with lovely parts unless you're tracking with slicks.
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Sep 6, 2022 23:42
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epswing posted:The heat shield under my '07 Accord gave up, fell onto the exhaust, lots of rattling, etc. I removed it. Is this a critical part and I shouldn't drive the car until it's fixed? I've lost count of how many rusty rattling heat shields I've torn off cars but so far it's never been an issue. I kinda wonder if they're more to hold heat in the cat than to protect the car. Seconding exhaust wrap if you're worried about it. It's cheap and easy. It will hold moisture when cool so faster rusting of the component it's on but probably not super noticable. Also its got fiberglass in it so soak it in water before you put it on, wear gloves, and take a cold shower / change and wash your clothes right after.
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Sep 9, 2022 02:44
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ryanrs posted:Yes, this is the only reason I haven't already done it myself. I'd guess why it's complicated. Ac connections are AFAIK ac specific and there isn't really a common enough use case for plugs or caps to be available off the shelf. I'm not an ac person though so just speculation. Stores that do hydraulic lines like the Parker store often make custom ac lines too. If you can find a spot to loop it you could probably get them to make you one.
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Sep 10, 2022 12:21
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AFewBricksShy posted:My 15 BRZ has a broken valve spring. Since they have to drop the engine to do them, I'm having them all done. AFAIK valve springs won't cause any of the reasons for a break in period. Most of it is seating the piston rings. They're already done so... The springs aren't machined spinny bits inside other machined spinny bit holes either so shouldn't cause any excess metal in the oil. I doubt doing it one way vs another will make any difference. I would ask the people doing the work for their $.02 and then following it for warranty purposes alone. Keep all paper work about it and all future maintenance. The FA20 is known for blowing itself up over having to much RTV applied to the timing cover. See all the valve spring recall issues and that dust up about the gr86 that just exploded. Actually have you checked if you're in the recall / made a stink about that?
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Sep 14, 2022 04:18
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Under the threaded part it's a cone. When the cone pulled tight into its home its a very strong connection. Maybe put your jack under it and press it back up. It won't take much force. Just contact plus a smidgen. Don't pick the car up with it. Then tighten the nut back down. Clean all the rust off the threads with a wire brush, lube it up, and try to remove it again.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:32
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A little more force, go for tighten only. You're jammed up in the loosen direction.
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Sep 16, 2022 23:37
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GreenBuckanneer posted:$150 1. Are you replacing the outer tie rod? Yes or no. If no is that and alignment an option? Cut it off. 2. You've got the right idea, the jack is pushing in the correct direction. It's hard to tell exactly what's going on from the pics. Zoom out a bit. Is the hub flopping around or is most of the suspension connected still? 3. If it's not flopping around you'll have to jack it up enough to take any slop out of the suspension and get the spring pushing back against the whole assembly. Raise the jack, try to tighten the nut. Spins? Raise the jack, try again. Keep going back and forth. Just do not pick the car up this way. Have you got a torch, propane, Mapp gas, etc? Heat the nut if you do.
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Sep 17, 2022 00:50
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Lot of words is fine. 14 wouldn't but 15 did confirms a ton of rust. If you have a wire wheel that fits in a drill or something like that use it to attack the rust. Get it off the nut and any exposed threads above the nut. Then pb blaster. What's happened is as the nut backed off more and more rust jammed into the threads and locked the whole thing up. Stick an extension in the 15mm and work it back and forth until the socket comes off. It's probably rounded the corners of the nut a bit. Do the wire wheel thing, pb blaster, then try the 14mm. If it's kind of almost going hammer it on. If it's proper hosed you'll have to file or grind it a bit. The tie rod has to pivot at that joint. This is what's spinning now. The part that's hidden inside the knuckle / hub assembly shouldn't spin though. If you get the tie rod jammed in hard enough it should stop. Again go for righty tighty. Backing it off more will just jam more rust in. If you get it to tighten at all without the whole mess spinning, repeat the wire wheel and pb blaster. Loosen it a hair. 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Pb. Tighten. Loosen. Tighten. That back and forth with drive oil into the threads. Suddenly it'll pop off. For all other ball joints open with the wire wheel and pb blaster. When you go to remove them if it starts getting hard or the impact bogs down reverse direction. Apply more lube. Work back and forth. Hmm. Don't feel bad, taking rusted to gently caress suspension apart requires a feel you only learn from personal pain. NOTE: if all else fails and you decide to cut it off, wait. There's a nut in thr middle of that mess. Break it loose first, then cut. If you don't there will be a worse spinning hell. The inner and outer tie rod thread together. There's a jam nut in between them. LOOSEN IT FIRST THEN CUT.
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Sep 17, 2022 01:54
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm in Maine, and this is a 2010 car. I only really started owning this car in 2020 when I bought it off my cheating ex-wife for $500, and it has 251k miles on the engine (was probably around 200-220k when I bought it). So, I already know doing anything would probably be rustzilla, but I guess I had expected to just kind of power through it. I can totally see that garage. You wind up saving everything after you can't find the thing you threw away years ago. Based on your willingness to do the work, the fact it isn't a time based crisis, and an understanding that tools are cheaper than car payments... keep plugging away. $300-500 for an oxy acetylene setup is a huge outlay but it will unfuck everything. Can't be tight if it's a liquid. None of us hopped from hmm cars? to youtube garage in a day, it just builds up over decades. And when you need it again it's free.
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Sep 17, 2022 21:54
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