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I've got a 2004 Camry LE. I've got a transmission question. It has what I think is a 4-speed automatic that is known for being reliable, but I've got an issue. If I get on the highway within 15-20 minutes of starting the engine, it has trouble upshifting enough. This is not a cold start followed by getting on the freeway immediately. Even if I drive around for a while until the temp needle moves to almost halfway, this still happens. I'll get on the highway, merge at 50-60MPH, but the RPMs will be stuck at 4, 5 or even approaching 6k. I'm on the highway in medium traffic usually so it's not like I can slow to a crawl or speed up to 80MPH to encourage my transmission to shift. So I will be forced to let the engine race, usually for a few minutes or a few miles, at which point it will suddenly upshift and return to normal at ~2-2.5k at 60MPH. By the way I use cruise control often, but this happens whether or not I use cruise. I'll turn off cruise and try every position of the accelerator pedal to encourage it to shift, but nothing will work until it just decides to after some time on the highway. I'm worried I'm doing some damage or at least wasting gas by letting the engine race. I know the previous owner took care of the car. It is very low mileage. I just rolled it over to 30k miles. I don't believe the AT Fluid has been changed in its 11-year life, which wasn't concerning because of the low miles, but could old fluid be causing this issue? Though it previously had a low mileage life, I now drive it at a normal interval, a hundred miles a week maybe. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Feb 15, 2015 |
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Feb 15, 2015 21:33
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Slavvy posted:Change your trans fluid and hope the trans isn't rooted beyond repair. What could have caused it to begin with? The fluid is rated for well beyond the miles it's at in its life, I guess 11 years is kind of long for ATF but it shouldn't kill a transmission..
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Feb 16, 2015 04:51
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Memento posted:ATF, just like every other fluid in your car, breaks down over time. 11 years is far longer than you should be leaving anything in your car. ATF contains all sorts of detergents, anti-oxidising agents and lubricants that will lose their ability to do their job over time. I wouldn't put a sealed bottle of ATF that was 11 years old in my car's transmission, and yours is not only that old, it's also been heated up and cooled down several hundred times, which also accelerates chemical change. I've left it at the shop for them to change out the ATF tomorrow. We'll see what they say. The flush service was $200 plus tax but I'm not sure if it's a change-out or an actual machine flush.
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Feb 17, 2015 03:13
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Had the ATF changed by the shop. Unfortunately my '04 Camry auto transmission is still sticking on the highway after a cold start at ~3500RPM for like 30 seconds or a minute until it warms up enough to upshift correctly all of a sudden. Any indication on how long my trans will last? I imagine it's had some years taken off its life. It seems to me that it's not worth it to have a $1500-2000+ trans rebuild just to fix this relatively small problem, but I am wondering how much time is left until it manifests more seriously.
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Feb 23, 2015 06:49
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No check engine light. Should I bring it to a different shop? The only thing my indie shop is offering to do is a tranny rebuild. I know it's difficult/impossible to diagnose over an internet forum.
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Feb 23, 2015 07:35
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Farmer Crack-rear end posted:How long can tires last in terms of time? I bought a 97 LeSabre recently that hadn't been driven much in the last several years, and based on what the previous owner told me, I think these tires are at least six years old. See if it has a DOT date code. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11
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Feb 25, 2015 23:06
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I'm just curious how she owes $5500 on a 12 year old car. Did she buy it new?
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Feb 27, 2015 16:53
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CharlesM posted:I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up. My '04 Camry is having this issue. It doesn't help that the old ATF was pretty gummy before I flushed it. I'll get on the highway with only a semi-warmed up engine and it'll stay stuck at 3,500 RPM until it warms enough and suddenly upshifts and goes to 2-2.5k RPM like normal. I hope it's normal enough to not kill it.
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Mar 2, 2015 23:09
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ZentraediElite posted:Icy car update: AAA guy came and helped push while I floored it in reverse and we ultimately got it outta the ruts I'd made. Sorry to hear you had to call AAA. Did that make you use up one of your annual calls?
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Mar 6, 2015 18:19
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Bovril Delight posted:On a scale of 1-10, is a $500 '85 Land Cruiser an 11? That price is less than the scrap value...
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May 27, 2015 15:40
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PaintVagrant posted:My sister will not listen to me and is buying a 2015 Patriot. She looked it up on consumer reports. Their 2014 model was on the "worst of the worst" list. So she is buying a 2015 I drove a 2014 Jeep Patriot rental and it was the most hilariously uncomfortable vehicle I have ever been in so far. They found ways to make it uncomfortable that I couldn't come up with trying purposefully to do so. How can modern car designs like that leave the drawing board, I truly don't understand.
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May 27, 2016 20:41
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I might be a car owner again!! I'm probably about to buy a 2003 Volvo X40 with 110k miles off Craigslist.  I know this isn't the Car Buying thread but I've already narrowed it down. Stupid idea?Asking is $3500, I'm trying to bring it down to $3000. It has some new stuff like tires, brakes, and a nice stereo head unit. I don't need this car at all and I'm buying it purely for fun/convenience. Another stupid idea? People in my regional goonthread (Chicago) who never lurk AI were giving me a ton of crap for considering buying a car without needing it for a commute. It's probably deserved crap. I was also considering some 2015/2016 prior rentals, I know I know, for like $12-15k, so this is a big step down. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jul 27, 2016 |
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Jul 27, 2016 17:49
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Safety Dance posted:Chicagoans can eat me. I own a car in the city because it saves me a few hours / week on public transit or a hundred dollars / month on rideshare options. $3K seems like a pretty good price for that Volvo. What do you have? I know this is a question that probably has no right answer because it depends on your means, but would it be unreasonable to buy a $12-15k car for the same reasons? Then plan to sell it in 2-3 years to get a good chunk of that back? As opposed to this Volvo, which I'll be lucky to get $1k or $2k for in a couple years.
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Jul 27, 2016 18:01
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Rhyno posted:Where is the car buying thread these days? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538  Also, I checked out the Volvo I posted about. Idiots didn't put a CEL on the listing, it had 3 serious codes. They weren't willing to budge more than $300 on the price, which was already far above fair value, so I walked. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jul 28, 2016 |
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Jul 28, 2016 17:09
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Krakkles posted:Nope. Go on tire rack, search the size, pick the cheapest/highest treadwear tire you feel comfortable with. Are you saying tires literally don't differ in terms of experience between manufacturers or models? I thought checking specific model reviews on tire rack was important.
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Aug 3, 2016 20:01
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Augmented Dickey posted:Any tips on getting my auto tranny fluid changed? My '13 S60 (with 'lifetime' fluid) has about 60k miles and I'm starting to get a little nervous. Half the sources online say to leave it alone, the other half reccomend a change (but not a flush). I've reached out to several mechanics in my area and they all either only offer a flush or don't want to touch it at all. Hey I just picked up an old S40 from 2003. How have you liked your newer Volvo? I would go with the factory maintenance recommendation, which is not to touch it. Why are you nervous about it?
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Aug 25, 2016 19:45
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kastein posted:The CEL will turn off, usually after ~3 driving cycles (a driving cycle is get in, start engine, drive somewhere, turn engine off, in some cases let engine cool off) and/or after the ECU has completed all its emissions monitor tests, which depends on the make, model, and year of the vehicle in question and how exactly the OEM implemented their OBD system. Is it frowned upon to simply clear the CEL after performing the repair, and seeing if it comes back? Rather than leaving the CEL on and waiting for it to pop off?
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Oct 5, 2016 22:21
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Three-Phase posted:That's good to know - I did see that the battery packs have warranties for I think 10 years and 100k miles. Not sure about warranties on the electrical system (rotating machines and power semiconductors*). What do the things you said mean, please?
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Oct 15, 2016 23:04
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Geoj posted:Buying batteries from Costco - do they take the old one for recycling? Also is your car a red color?
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Oct 21, 2016 17:13
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Yeah what? Also, if an accident is 100% not-at-fault, don't you not pay the deductible? Her insurance would pay the deductible, right? No idea why you didn't call the police immediately. If the gas station has cameras, there is a limited amount of time before it's recorded over. For the cops, it's a slam-dunk hit and run if there's a camera. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:28 on Nov 11, 2016 |
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Nov 11, 2016 17:26
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Xequecal posted:I did call the police nonemergency number. They said I would have to come into the station and fill out an accident report, that's why I asked if this would be worth the hassle. I've never had anyone drive off on me before. Did you explain that it was a hit and run? I find it hard to believe they wouldn't send an officer out for that. Probably should have called the emergency number, that's what I would have done. In my area, the non-emergency number doesn't have the capability to dispatch an officer. big crush on Chad OMG posted:Her insurance would pay, if they accepted liability. If not, you're on the hook for the deductible. I would never accept paying the deductible for that clear non-liability. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Nov 11, 2016 |
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Nov 11, 2016 18:09
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Mordecai Sanchez posted:The good news is the engine is no longer violently revving. The bad news is that the car dies a second after I start the engine. Hopefully it is just the battery and not the engine. Just had a new one installed last year (and the AAA guy who installed it would not shut up about the battery that he was replacing was just a year old...) Seeing as your car has been eating batteries at a rate of 1 per year, it would make sense to have your charging system tested at a mechanic.
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Nov 13, 2016 20:39
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Xequecal posted:It's Michigan, her being uninsured is going to hit her for a lot more than the hit & run, for this little damage it's like a $100 ticket. So is she actually getting charged...? Would you have to go to court?
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Nov 14, 2016 17:29
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Len posted:That's good news. Where's a good place to order parts from? The last few things her cars needed I got at pull a part but they haven't had any beetles in awhile. How about https://www.rockauto.com Haven't checked to see if they have that specific part.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:28
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Sounds like the kind of part you will only be able to get from a dealership or JY.
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Nov 14, 2016 21:06
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My 2015 Ford Fiesta seems to have a coolant reservoir that likes to sit below the min mark. It's been filled up twice to MAX, and after a few drives it is maybe an inch below the MIN mark on the overflow reservoir and stays there indefinitely. Temperature gauge is always healthy and constant at 50% after warming up. Anything to worry about? I called the dealer, and though it is under a powertrain-only warranty at this point, they will not perform an inspection for free, it would be $130.
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Nov 15, 2016 00:43
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Godholio posted:It's going somewhere. Check for a puddle, check for a wet area under the dashboard, get someone to watch your exhaust when you start and drive it (looking for a whitish cloud). I think I've checked all three of those things and I've come up empty on a cause. It always settles around exactly the same place in the reservoir tank, it won't drop below there.
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Nov 15, 2016 02:49
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Does the starter come with some kind of warranty, or the installation job? Where did you purchase and who installed it? Call the support phone number for the remote manufacturer? Sounds hard to diagnose over the internet. If it's truly a half hour job then it's $60, right? Not too bad if none of the above options work. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 20:28
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^^^ Oh if this is actually the case then nevermind. Call your bank and see how long it would take them to give you a 100% written guaranteed answer? I want to know the conclusion. I say take the check but don't hand over the keys until you know 100% it's clear, in writing from the bank.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:41
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PaintVagrant posted:I warm my (modern) car up for 5-10 minutes just so my balls don't freeze to the seat, because gently caress Michigan. https://smile.amazon.com/Wagan-IN9438-Heated-Cushion-Support/dp/B0041RPGQ6/ Considered this thingy?
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Dec 6, 2016 20:56
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FBS posted:The touchscreen in my Mazda 3 has developed a fun and exciting problem: it's detecting a constant input at a single point in the upper central portion of the display. What year and color is your Mazda 3? Did you buy it new or used? Is it past the bumper-to-bumper warranty? I've always been advised the extended warranty thingies are rarely worth it.
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Dec 9, 2016 21:06
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Are you using a Google Voice number? Just making sure!
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Dec 10, 2016 08:36
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My el cheapo car lights dim slightly when there's more electric power draw. Even the flashers affect things. When the flashers and interior lights are on, the interior lights will dim slightly every time the flashers illuminate, and brighten when they go back off, etc. The same thing will happen in your house if you turn on a hair dryer or other high current draw appliance for example. How serious is your dimming?
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Dec 20, 2016 18:34
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Ford's cars and light trucks are now covered by a 5 year, unlimited mileage corrosion warranty. It only covers rust not caused by 'environmental fallout,' whatever that means. I'm not sure if that applies to the '11 Ranger. "Your vehicle’s body sheet metal panels are covered for an extended Corrosion Coverage Period, which lasts for five years, regardless of miles driven. The extended warranty coverage only applies if a body sheet metal panel becomes perforated due to corrosion during normal use due to a manufacturing defect in factory-supplied materials or factory workmanship. For damage caused by airborne material (environmental fallout) where there is no factory-related defect involved and therefore no warranty − our policy is to provide free repair of paint damage due to the airborne material for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first."
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Dec 24, 2016 10:13
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Looks like a late model Nissan Sentra to me, but kinda hard to tell. Ah, the "get me the cheapest new car there is" car, besides the Versa
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Dec 26, 2016 06:24
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Mercury_Storm posted:I test drove a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE today (about 90k miles on it) and noticed a few odd things.  Any reason why their asking price is so much higher than this?
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Dec 29, 2016 17:31
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spankmeister posted:My moms bf accidentally put a bit of tap water and windex into the coolant instead of the windscreen wash bottle I don't understand this part. Instead of the washer fluid?
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Jan 4, 2017 18:29
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spankmeister posted:Yes, washer fluid. The English word had escaped me. Am I crazy? I understood you meant washer fluid, but it's okay to pour washer fluid instead of coolant?
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Jan 4, 2017 20:16
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Oh!!!! Sorry, my coffee has ran out. Thank you.
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Jan 4, 2017 20:21
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The thing with warranties is they exist to make money for whomever is selling the warranty. It's a gamble that usually works out in their favor. I don't think there is one 'correct' answer as to whether or not they are worth it unless you are dealing with an extraordinarily reliable or unreliable vehicle.
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Jan 5, 2017 17:44
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