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How fuckin stupid would it be to daily drive an AP2 S2k year round in Boston?
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2015 20:16 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:43 |
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Jack B Nimble posted:92 Camry 4 cylinder, rack and pinion confirmed bad at the shop, steering is very heavy and uneven. Do I risk anything worse than sore arms by driving it for a while before fixing it? Depends on how you mean "bad" - if it's just the power assist, not too much risk but not the safest thing on earth. If it's the steering gear itself, don't drive it.
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2015 20:39 |
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Yeah probably don't drive that poo poo because, you know, sometimes you NEED to steer like right now &c and it sounds like you might not be able to do that. edit: what did the shop actually say is wrong
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# ¿ Jul 10, 2015 20:53 |
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VelociBacon posted:He's talking about the ignition coil. It's probably a couple hundred to replace but a shop can test it I would expect. I don't know anything about classic cars or v8's etc but I'm guessing you have some kind of aftermarket ignition system. That sounded more like a carb issue than a spark issue based on the description to me as well.
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# ¿ Jul 13, 2015 14:07 |
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what is better and cheaper than a camper van is a car, and also a tent
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2019 15:54 |
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Kasumeat posted:I find the level of comfort much, much lower in a tent. harden the gently caress up
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2019 17:09 |
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like you are living abroad for a year or two, and instead of: buy sensible five year old car that is reliable and won't depreciate much and is readily available, drive around, commute, take it car camping, sell easily to a very large market when you leave you are planning to: buy idiot 22 year old camper van that is unreliable and horrible on fuel, commute in it, drive around, and take it camping so you can be marginally more comfortable when you are camping, and then try to sell it to the tiny market of "idiots who want a 22 year old camper van" what country are you moving to because if it's a gray market import EVEN BIGGER gently caress NO MAN
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2019 17:17 |
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MetaJew posted:I don't think so, but I can ask her to try that. could always be a problem with the physical microphone in car, too. can you try having her use a different phone that's borrowed from someone else?
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2019 15:25 |
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The Jabberwocky posted:Thanks again everybody who weighed in with my tire question. I got Tire Rack to shave a new one down for me, since the others were 8-9/32 and good for a fair bit more life. I imagine the number of +60 days is pretty low if you get down to -10F, so I would run winters in the winter, and summers in the summer. You won't ruin your winter tires at 60 degrees. Just take it easy when it's hot with snow tires and you'll be fine.
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# ¿ Jun 26, 2019 01:09 |
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22 Eargesplitten posted:While we’re talking about treadwear/tire shaving, I need one new tire. 205/55/R16. How many 32nds off can a new one be? I know a guy that sells used tires he buys wholesale from junkyards/tire shops, I figure that given the shoestring budget of this “project” I should probably see about getting a just plain used tire instead of a new one and shaving to match, if the treadwear is close enough. At least for another 10k miles or so, or maybe just until winter depending on how they’re looking at that point. used tires is not generally a good idea
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2019 02:51 |
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Subaru Impreza, so everything is driven. I'll see what two tires would cost, and I definitely wouldn't be mixing summers and the all-seasons or anything. Cheaper makes sense, hadn't thought about that. I've only ever bought used rims (first from someone in the Subaru thread, then from a shop today) so I always forget how stupid loving expensive they can be. Our potholes in CO aren't really any worse in winter than the rest of the year anyway. it's a poor man's way to not save money - you're still going to need x miles out of a tire and there's not such a tremendous discount for used tires. on top of that, you don't really know about the condition of the tire. sure, the guy is gonna take it back if there's a bubble. what if instead of visibly failing they fail much more drastically? the risk is low but still there - not really worth it imo especially if you're putting it on an AWD car that is sensitive to tires
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# ¿ Jun 27, 2019 16:32 |
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Rental guy who wants autopilot: Cadillac with Supercruise is probably a good bet. I think Mazdas also fit most of your needs with ACC and LAS. I have also had Volvo XC-60s with those features. All from National.
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# ¿ Jul 1, 2019 18:28 |
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Feenix posted:Could be a poo poo battery. It’s crossed my mind. It’s just odd as I’ve been “in and out” of my car a lot more on some occasions at home and never even a falter... but every year I’m on this trip (and every single day of the trip) it dies. Just such a weird set of circumstances. If it's the original battery you're due.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2019 14:58 |
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Tart Kitty posted:I have an '07 Kia Spectra that has about 90,000 miles on it. It's been a sturdy standby for me for years, but within the last week-or-so the driver's-side front brake on my car has been squeaking anytime I brake or turn left. Life got in the way for a bit, but I made an appointment with Midas for Saturday to get it checked. When I got into my car after work today, the check engine light was on. The car is running fine other than the incessant squeaking. Can the check engine light be activated by brake issues? Do you think it's safe to drive until my appointment? The CEL would not be triggered by your braking / suspension / drivetrain issue. In most cases, the CEL is going to be related to various sensors and emissions control related stuff. Provided the car starts and runs, it should be fine. It will certainly be fine until Saturday. If you are particularly worried, you can stop by an auto parts store and they will pull the codes from onboard diagnostics for free, and then you can look them up online. As a quick initial fix, make sure the gas cap is fully tightened.
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# ¿ Jul 3, 2019 23:19 |
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Father Jack posted:Good point about a potential warranty claim, I've no idea how that would actually work with the online only stores. In the US there are two lead acid battery manufacturers and everything is just a rebrand of their product. Bosch does not make their own batteries.
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# ¿ Jul 5, 2019 22:40 |
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Autoexec.bat posted:You can try dealer parts websites, they usually have full diagrams and even if they don't have the parts you can at least get a part number to buy it elsewhere most of the time. yeah the ford EPC is online, its easy to find the Ford PN
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2019 20:56 |
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P074100 TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CIRCUIT PERFORMANCE P181100 TORQUE CONVERTER LOCK-UP CLUTCH EXCESSIVE TEMPERATURE P181200 - can't find this but I'm guessing it's also TC related Step 1 is go to an actual mechanic that works on VWs. My guess is that based on codes and behavior it's related to the torque converter not locking up correctly, which could be any number of actual root cause problems. edit: Step Zero is don't drive the car other than to the mechanic but I'd be inclined to get it towed.
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2020 00:28 |
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I would mentally prepare myself for a rather hefty bill and be pleasantly surprised if that was not the case.
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# ¿ Dec 8, 2020 22:04 |
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At this point even a fairly generic common transmission, say like a 8HPXX, is part of a integrated powertrain system so you're better off going to a brand specialist than a transmission specialist.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2020 02:28 |
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Most of that stuff is actively a scam. Prepaid maintenance can be OK but not at that price. Audi is relatively reasonable about stuff like this and I think the prepaid Audi Care plans are fairly decent value but they're like three years $999.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2020 03:30 |
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Jippa posted:I have a 2002 vw golf. In my manual it says I have to use the specific vw branded "g12" antifreeze. Is this a legit thing or are they just trying to sell me it. I have some "british standard" stuff. There are different formulations for coolant but really, it's an 18 year old car - I'd just use what you have lying around unless you are strongly emotionally attached to the car.
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# ¿ Dec 9, 2020 15:35 |
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I mean it's a Miata, there's a lot of them - not sure that I'd want to buy something like that which I hadn't driven and looked at.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2020 14:52 |
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do you live in wyoming
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2020 18:20 |
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tactlessbastard posted:What has two thumbs and buys a convertible in December nice color combo congrats!
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# ¿ Dec 12, 2020 19:01 |
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Puppy Galaxy posted:hello, when it comes to cars I am an idiot, so apologies in advance the car is still covered by the fully transferable powertrain warranty (5/60) so i would take it to the dealer and have them take a peek
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2020 17:02 |
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bitch to mazda corporate on twitter i am dead serious
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 20:37 |
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you should definitely complain! if I had a car that wouldn't perform correctly in 17% of the gears I paid for I would be loving pissed.
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 20:48 |
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SkyeAuroline posted:It begins. Wish me luck. who is your local dealer? let us know how it goes!
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# ¿ Dec 14, 2020 21:37 |
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you should want the call recorded dude wtf edit: also don't drive the car and make them give you a loaner
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2020 03:04 |
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i misread that and thought the OP was trying to opt out of the call being recorded
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2020 16:48 |
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although its possible that mazda corp is going to try to screw you on this one it's not very likely
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2020 19:26 |
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SkyeAuroline posted:wow, how did you guess? i recommend escalating that further
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2020 03:48 |
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There's a reason I said to go after Mazda corp on twitter. gently caress the dealer, the dealer's obviously bad. you need to understand the difference between the dealer and Mazda corporate (MNAO). the dealer is an independent business and Mazda can't really force them to do anything at all. however, they can provide you with some kind of remediation for your problem until the dealer looks at your car. Fundamentally you have a non-driveable car, under the original manufacturer warranty, and Mazda won't do poo poo about it until the dealer will look at it on the 29th. That's unacceptable. At minimum MNAO should be providing you with reimbursement for a rental car for every day it takes for the dealer to look at your car. loving learn to advocate for yourself but since I'm dumber than Motronic is I'll lay out what I would do: 0) get your poo poo together in terms of the case. it doesn't help that you just loving ignored a serious problem with the powertrain of your car for months, but whatever stupid poo poo in the past can't be helped. you want a timeline from when you first noticed the original problem until present, with documented dealer visits, results from those visits, etc as well as any changes in the nature of the problem. 1) you think the just-graduated-from-college trainee dude at MNAO's call center has any loving power at all? Call back, get their supervisor, and stress that this is not acceptable and you need your car. Ask them how they plan to solve this problem for you. 2) drag the dealer on yelp / google reviews etc 3) if MNAO doesn't do anything, start tweeting at them 4) reach out to a few car blogs with your horrifying story. maybe they want to run as part of a "bad performance by dealer svc departments in covid times" story or some poo poo. bonus points if you are a Front Line Heroe. 5) lawyer or threaten lawyer. you could also take the car to an independent mechanic for a diagnosis, but this will cost you money out of pocket. also: next time the dealer says "could not replicate" you go back until it gets replicated if it's a potentially serious problem (eg CAR NOT DRIVE RIGHT is serious, THERE IS A RATTLE not serious)
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2020 13:46 |
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It looks very black in that picture, must be the light. Congrats!
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2020 15:45 |
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you can do whatever you want, friend
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# ¿ Dec 19, 2020 21:38 |
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red hasn't been a ford color since before most people in this thread were born
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2021 15:46 |
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wesleywillis posted:I've always known it as "international red". yeah i think it has much stronger associations with International Harvester as well
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2021 19:41 |
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Trim tools are quite useful for this and pretty cheap (like 10-20 bucks for a complete set). They have an assortment of plastic prybars and such that can be used to pop off snap on trim without breaking tabs or marring the trim. As for instructions, I recommend owners forums and youtube, although the RAV4 may not have the most active communities for DIYers. But they made a shitton so some lunatic has certainly taken one apart.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2021 15:10 |
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DesperateDan posted:You probably will break/damage some clips even with a tool- If you can figure out what kind of clips it uses then buying a cheap bag of them for replacements in advance will make it a lot more stress free This is a good point and they tend to be quite cheap. It's the integrated clips that are the biggest pain, imo.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2021 16:23 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 22:43 |
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It's probably the Corolla but if you are running a three year ownership horizon from 2-5 years you are absolutely doing it wrong
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# ¿ Jan 13, 2021 14:52 |