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Someone talk to me about flushing the radiator/coolant system on a car and whether or not you can use water or whether or not that's a dumb idea. The rest of the internet appears to be in two minds about this y'see but I want to do it properly and get poo poo as clean as I can because the 7M-GE is apparently a timebomb if the cooling system isn't kept sweet.
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Mar 8, 2016 17:48
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Safety Dance posted:I've been around cars a minute, and this question has always bugged me: Why do engine designers use studs? Are bolts not prone to seizing enough that they also have to use lovely headless bolts that you gotta break free with vice grips for some reason? What's the logic? It's something to do with getting accurate torque readings as studs remain stationary during tightening and they only stretch on one axis. Here you go: quote:In terms of function, the use of studs provides much more accurate and consistent torque loading. When a bolt is installed, the act of tightening results in both twisting (torsional load) and stretching (vertical, or axial load). This results in the bolt being exposed to two forces at the same time, as well as experiencing frictional loads at the thread engagement. When the nut is tightened on a stud, the stud stretches on its vertical axis only. The exposed end (top) of the stud features “fine” threads, which allow more precise and therefore accurate, torque readings when the nut is torqued (or torque/angle tightened) to spec.
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Mar 16, 2016 15:52
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I think I know the answer to this question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. This is an 86-88 Mk3 (89 onwards had a plastic bit from the front bumper to underneath the bonnet), I have an 88 non turbo with manual and it's a loving fantastic car. Proper analogue beast of a thing... If it's had the head gasket replaced and torqued correctly (usually replaced with ARP bolts) then buy it and just drive it forever. I'm a little in love with mine. Don't worry about the headlights, they're really robust but check underneath for sure because rust kills everything. Check the rear arches (open the door and take off the plastic vent in the door frame, peer inside with a torch) and if you want to be cheeky, pull off the plastic in the trunk and have a rummage around, the hatch leaks either under the spoiler, under the rear wiper or in the case of mine, under the trim at the bottom of the glass. Water will sit in the spare wheel well. Only other place these suffer is in the metal behind the rear speakers, the strut towers. Have a good long look, this guide is particularly great: http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/23-guide-buying-a-mk3-supra/ 86-88:  89-92: 
Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Apr 4, 2016 |
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Apr 3, 2016 23:48
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Not that anyone cares probably, but I finally got a hold of that guy selling the supra. Gonna meet with him this weekend and if the frame and everything is okay I'll be purchasing my first (project) car. Bruv, I CARE because I have one and it's hilarious to think that I own a car that was the very best Toyota put out in 1988. I haven't made a thread myself because effort but if you grab it then I'll certainly hijack it.  How many miles has it done? HGs tend to die around 75k or so. *edit: it's either an 87 or 88 if it's a turbo. Olympic Mathlete fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Apr 5, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 16:27
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Lol 380k km so like 200k miles. It's an 88 I think? If it's done 200k then the head gasket will have been replaced already, hopefully with a metal one and ARP studs torqued correctly (72ft lbs iirc) so ask about that one, torquing the OEM bolts just stretches them and weakens the whole setup. If by some miracle the car's made it that far on the original head gasket then bear that in mind when offering cash.
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Apr 5, 2016 17:41
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Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/180737692131890/?fref=ts
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Apr 6, 2016 14:29
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From the look of it that Supra has the TEMS adjustable suspension too?! Yeah dude, score. Get the HG done ASAP and drive the tits off it.
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Apr 10, 2016 20:06
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Bedding pads and discs takes a while yeah, but the pedal should be firm. Spongey feel = air in the system as air can be compressed, fluid can't. I'd get them to re-do it.
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Apr 14, 2016 20:40
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Geirskogul posted:I now have fumoto or ez-oil drain valves ready to put on all my cars next oil change. I have one of these and am awaiting some decent weather so I can install it.
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Apr 16, 2016 09:00
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Hot Karl Marx posted:so I need to get new tires for an '87 supra to pass a safety and it came with okay tires and rims, but theyre old and leak probably and the tread is a little small. Should I just go to a scrapyard and grab some cheap tires/rims off another toyota just to pass the safety and put the old ones on or just look for some decent used tires and wait a little bit. I'm itching to drive it Are there places near you that do part worn tyres? There's loads in the UK, they legally need to have at least 4mm of tread which is more than enough for you to blat about on and decide what you want to do with the car. I have some on mine... £100 for all 4 so I can roll around and sort out any mechanical issues that pop up from getting it back on the road.
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Apr 18, 2016 09:07
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Hot Karl Marx posted:I'm having a hard time finding the last part to get my supra safety'd. I can't find any site that has replacement rear upper ball joints. I can find front lower ones all over the place, but I can't find one and the rear upper left ball joint needs to be replaced. Bang your zipcode in here. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Ball+Joint+&+Components/C0317/C0106.oap?year=1990&make=Toyota&model=Supra&vi=1278525 There was a site I found last week which I found a bunch of poo poo on for a MK3 but of course I didn't bookmark it because I'm an idiot. If I find it again I'll let you know. And it's odd the upper rears have gone, it's usually lower fronts on these. And yes, the whole arm needs to be replaced. :/
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Apr 25, 2016 16:26
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Indeed, that's the one.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:25
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Depending on the scratch I would've told her I'd get some compound and get it out myself. And this is the fun of dealers and body shops, they're out to make money and will try to do so by bending you over, there are no favours... Take a photo, call up a local detailer and you may be surprised as to what they can do.
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Apr 26, 2016 09:02
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To be honest you'd be better served getting a drinks bottle and hacking the top out so the pipe fits snugly. At least then you'd get it done quicker. *edit: or that ^^
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Apr 29, 2016 20:09
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Enourmo posted:DON'T: 
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May 12, 2016 10:12
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Yeah it's his fault, it's not like cars don't have brake lights. Any cyclist not paying attention needs a lesson and I say this as someone who cycles every day.
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May 12, 2016 19:37
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MG3 posted:Cool. Im actually new to driving stick shift, I bought one last year after I totaled my automatic. I'm still learning all the tricks. I'm glad that you guys told me about this facet of manual gear cars. I bought one without knowing anything about manual cars and was driving it to work without any lessons the day after I bought it. Welcome, brother.
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May 17, 2016 09:24
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Driving in cities in Italy? PREPARE TO DIE. Get all the insurance because Italians drive like dickheads and when parking they will often just wedge into spaces and shunt your car to get in/out. GIS Italian parking:       Italian parking basically comes down to 'is that gap barely big enough for my car/moped? I'm parking in it'
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May 23, 2016 09:35
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Seriously, you have to be a hyper-attentive driver to do Italy without incident.
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May 23, 2016 09:45
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RDS? That's just the (Radio Data) system used in FM broadcasts to embed text so you can get the name of the station/song and other related text. It also allows any traffic broadcasts local to interrupt the station you're on so you can get info assuming your stereo has the option.
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Jun 10, 2016 15:44
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SouthsideSaint posted:And also a lesson that sucks learning the hard way. Make sure the fill plug opens before opening the drain plug. Haha, I allllllllmost did similar. Fill plug wouldn't loosen though so after emptying the transmission fluid out I had to basically take the shifter out and pour it into the top of the gearbox. Annoying but not too much trouble to do.
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Jul 4, 2016 12:53
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:
The ones I've seen more often than not are these, note the spikes are highly illegal in the UK so those get put on there when they're parked up at the local fast food place.  Also note the drift quick release bumper.
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Jul 25, 2016 08:22
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Raluek posted:But who would make aluminum lug nuts? China. And there are a lot of aluminium ones about because of this, mainly sold by these little 'fashion' car brands that sell tees and stickers. Dudes selling them never check materials because why would they? All they see is they can buy in stock from China for little cash and sell them on for a fair whack more in their own country.
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Jul 25, 2016 09:30
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I'm lead to believe that nuts are better than bolts because you can get a proper/more accurate torque reading on them. With a bolt you're twisting the bolt itself and also threading it inside something which leads to slightly off readings.
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Jul 25, 2016 14:39
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ionn posted:Unless something is very strange, the threads on the bolt shouldn't be making contact with the wheel, so I don't see how there different "contact surfaces" involved in the two cases. I mean into the actual thread itself. And that's something I've read recently regarding head studs/bolts from ARP themselves.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:02
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ionn posted:It's the same amount of thread, just "inverted". Don't get how that can make a difference. It's probably a tiny difference and I ain't a science whizz so I can't say for certain, just suggesting what I've read from a company that makes stuff to keep the tops on engines might have an element of truth in it.
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Jul 25, 2016 15:44
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scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. Aye, I've got part worns on all 4 corners of my car. They're certainly a lot safer than the cracked ones that were on there when I picked it up!
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Jul 27, 2016 08:59
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I was getting ready to get violent if this wasn't Martini. The Wonder Weapon posted:As someone not versed in Porsche's history of racing, this look is lost on me. Cars used to be a bit more blatantly sponsored by booze and cigarettes, and oil. Porsche were sponsored by Martini and the link above is one of the most well known racing liveries in the world by anyone who has even half a clue. In short, a white Porsche is the perfect canvas for a touch of Martini.
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Aug 8, 2016 09:02
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Aside from the fact that I doubt my technical ability to recreate something with that much detail and precision, there's the additional issue that I simply don't care for the look. I apologize if this makes me a terrible Porsche owner. On point 1, there are people out there that specialise in doing stuff like this. On point 2, fair enough!
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Aug 8, 2016 16:17
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The Wonder Weapon posted:E: I really like this one. Does that redeem me at all? Actually yes, Gulf Racing livery is full on cool as poo poo.
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Aug 8, 2016 16:30
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Nerobro posted:Out of curiosity, why does "pressure" come to mind when you're thinking about thermostats? I'm going to say maybe because it has a spring? It's not obvious it's controlled by wax melting and I myself can't quite grasp how wax manages to make it open...
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Aug 15, 2016 16:27
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Whiteboard marker if you want to measure, a line of masking tape in whatever size you want the decal off the door bottom if you don't.
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Aug 18, 2016 14:56
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How would I go about finding out who made the OEM pistons for my 88 Supra?
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Aug 21, 2016 13:45
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Slavvy posted:Have they got any casting markings on them anywhere? Look carefully. To be fair I haven't looked that closely at the underside of them. Time to pull off the sump I guess! Cheers.
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Aug 22, 2016 15:37
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Corvairs are pretty cars, remind me a little of Triumph Dolomites and weirdo Japanese stuff like the Hino Contessa
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Aug 25, 2016 17:17
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Radiators. I need to buy a replacement one as I'm making sure the cooling system is bang on. There are several options all the same size, the only difference being how many rows of I guess cooling fins they offer. There's single, double and triple row up for grabs. All would be better than the cheap trash I currently have but what would offer optimum cooling out of those? Cheers
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Sep 1, 2016 17:24
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Christobevii3 posted:More walls cool better typically. I'd get a double wall if price isn't much different over a single. Triple is probably expensive Sweet. The OEM is single, upgraded OEM is a double and suggests 40% better cooling. Triple isn't that much more but I'm not too sure who the company is that makes it where the double is somewhat reputable. Cheers!
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Sep 2, 2016 08:58
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I have heard clay bar can help a bit, but never tried it. Worth a shot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJkfrY2owb0
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Sep 9, 2016 21:02
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The more people that appreciate Crowns, the better. The estate versions are immense.
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Sep 12, 2016 10:01
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vulturesrow posted:I recently had the misfortune of poking a small hole in the sidewall of one of my tires. No tire shops in my area had the right size in stock so I had to drive on my doughnut why more than I wanted to. I drove it carefully but I ended up putting about 50 miles on it. It looks like it held up well but should I be concerned about using it again if another tire bites the dust? Time to read the manual. I believe the tyres on most donuts/space savers are good for ~70 miles max before they really should be replaced. They're intended as a 'get you out of the poo poo to the nearest tyre shop' thing as opposed to something you can run indefinitely. There are people who've driven far further on them but once that pops on you what are you going to do? If you were indeed careful then it should be ok but again, check what the manufacturer says about it.
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Sep 14, 2016 09:12
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