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bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Can (Ford F-150 incl remote start) key fobs be reprogrammed? I now have two of them for a truck that is in a scrap yard and I assume if they can be they'd have a fair amount of value.

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bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Cars definitely had crumple zones in the 90s.

Mass is always relevant when two cars collide but if it's an either/or in terms of mass/crumple zones I'd take the crumple zones unless the mass differential is enormous.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015


Keep in mind that the extended cab F-150 was basically the poster child for "holy poo poo this thing sucks in a crash" due to the relatively large cab with no B pillar.

Also that this sort of crash testing simulates a crash between two vehicles of the same weight, if you actually crashed a 1999 Forester into a 1997 F-150 in this manner the Forester would do significantly worse and the F-150 would fare significantly better due to the ~30% weight difference.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Memento posted:

Hey Americans, how do y'all pronounce "kludge"? Rhymes with sludge, right?

Yes.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Which Lincoln SUV would be easiest to put a lift and 35” tires on?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Mephiston posted:

I assume this is the right thread to ask because, well, stupid questions but is there a thread anywhere for what you should have in your car?

I ask because my wife and I just bought a car (2016 Holden Commodore Evoke Series II, if anyone's wondering) after not having a car for a year or so (my sister-in-law totalled it), and I was wondering what sort of things we should get for it.

Obviously things like jumper leads, it has a jack and a spare (full spare not a space saver, even)

But beyond that I'm kinda lost. I was thinking a phone holder, maybe a jump starter, some seat covers.. but I'm not really sure, and I'd rather leave it up to you guys to recommend some resources or a list of stuff.

My car is going to be stored outside (we don't have a carport or garage) so I'd kinda like some kind of good car cover, but nothing hugely expensive. We rent, so we can't put up a carport or anything, either.

Also, anything else I should be aware of? We're sorting insurance and all that stuff, but it's been a long time since either of us bought a car (like.. 20 years ish) and we want to be prepared.

Thanks folks.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Inner Light posted:

Is that a loving compass? :lol:

even if it isn't, it should be

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

What is this thing

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

You should probably get that fixed

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Can anyone that's sat in a C8 comment on its roominess compared to the 6 and 7? I can't even find one to sit in. I'm 6'5" and fit okay in the C6 but the one time I tried to sit in a C7 I sat down in the seat and tried to swing my legs in and my knees hit the dash where it starts to swoop back into the door, literally couldn't get my legs in. It's possible I could have gotten in with the old one leg at a time method but I never tried.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

bird is big in many ways

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

The first step is getting the white paint off and then evaluating. When something similar happened to me I think I used a combination of my fingernail and some mild rubbing compound.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Extended warranties.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Anyone recognize this brand of wheels (if it’s even a real brand)?






e: Nm I just saw the sticker on the window

bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Aug 24, 2021

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

anyone used painters tape as a temporary bra until their clear bra appointment arrives? Seems like it’s no problem and the only potential issue is leaving it on too long and then it’s annoying to get the glue off but still won’t hurt anything

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I have LoJack because I take a crate of my favorite Funkos with me everywhere I go and some of them are irreplaceable.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Ok Comboomer posted:

no wonder your Mach-E is so dingdang slow

It spends so much energy going 0-60 in 3.5 that afterwards it gets sleepy

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

grab that dime

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Just put the seat all the way forward and jam your hand in there from the back maybe rip the carpet a little if you need to no one will notice.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

skipdogg posted:

What’s your financial situation

I am extremely well off but I feel like it’s rude of you to ask.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

AnnoyBot posted:

It seems to have the basic tow package (2 plugs + hitch). I looked up the VIN and it didn't mention towing. The 4x4 XLs with the 3.5L on autotrader seem to be $26-29k, with more miles and alloy wheels. I agree that the story could be just a story, and that a mechanic check and request for service records would be in order. Lowballing shouldn't be too hard given the comps.

Thanks all.

Where did you look up the VIN? Sometimes with Fords you can look up the actual original window sticker and that will tell you all the options but it's not decoding the VIN its just pulling the window sticker out of a database. Not all options are coded into VINs. In fact hardly any of them are.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

The correct adhesive didn't work the first time or it wouldn't be coming off just put whatever you can find in your kitchen junk drawer on there and see how it goes

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

If I had those wheels on a G37 I wouldn't be happy about it.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Powershift posted:

I answered before confirming

I knew it was one of the two because they are exclusively driven way too fast on bald tires by yobbos.

lmao :hf:

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Get a Mach-E GT

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Even if the axle is leaking the ring gear is still gonna get lubricated isn't it? I drove a Mustang with a badly leaking seal for like 3 years.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Power to weight ratio, sometimes stated in hp/lb but usually more usefully as hp/ton.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

You’re not going to diagnose worn brake pads or blown shocks or a leaking oil pan from the OBD2 port, it is in no way even partially a substitute for a PPI.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

80 in Wyoming sucks poo poo I got stuck there for two days because they shut it down for blowing snow. I’d take 70 and 50 and get on 80 in Fernley.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

totalnewbie posted:

There's two (three) types of O2 sensors these days. I'll just stick to the two main ones, switching and wide range.
How they work

They both operate by the same principle - the elements are made of yttria stabilized zirconia. Put very simply, an yttrium atom replaces a zirconium atom in the crystal structure and the end result is that O2- ions (not a whole oxygen molecule) is able to move through the interstitials (atomic-level gaps in the crystal structure).

Let's talk about electricity briefly. What is it? One way to (imperfectly) think of it is the movement of charge from A to B. Usually, this is done by electrons through metal. Sometimes, it can get weird like in semiconductors where it's the absence of an electron that is the charge carrier (a hole). But here, in the O2 sensor, the charge carrier is an O2- ion, meaning it's a single oxygen atom with a negative 2 charge.

So, you've got an element that can conduct electricity via oxygen ions but you need some reason for the ions to actually move through the element. That's how an O2 sensor works. You always have a reference side of the element (it's exposed to air; it's why some O2 sensors have a filter, so air can get in and out) and the sensing side which is exposed to the exhaust. When there is a difference in the partial pressure of oxygen between the exhaust and air, oxygen ions now want to travel across that element to reduce that difference. This is governed by the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nernst_equation. Basically, the greater the difference between partial pressures, the larger the EMF (i.e. voltage).

If you look at the Nernst equation, you'll notice it's a log function with respect to the ratio of ppO2 between exhaust and air. When lambda swings through 1 between rich and lean, you have large orders of magnitude changes in the amount of O2 in the exhaust. This shows up in the Nernst equation as a large shift in EMF around lambda 1 - the classic Z-curve.

So for a switching sensor (and it's more complicated and OEMs do all sorts of things with it but there's no real need to get into it), it basically tells the ECU when it's rich or lean. The ECU then adjusts fueling to compensate but it can't adjust it finely enough (nor is combustion ever stable enough) to hit lambda 1 completely, so it swings between rich and lean. Hence, switching sensor.

Now, a widerange sensor is very similar, except that it's two switching sensors put together. It's two zirconia cells put together with a small space in between. Exhaust enters that space and one cell responds to the change in amount of O2 in the exhaust. An ASIC in the ECU, though, will now apply a voltage to the other cell to try to force the first cell back to 450 mV (lambda 1). The amount of current flowing through the second cell is measured (well, calculated) and the magnitude of how much current flows through the second cell tells you how much work was needed to push the first cell back to stoich. This is how we are now able to tell with much greater accuracy how far away from stoich you are.

The third kind is a wide-range sensor that uses a single cell instead of two; Denso makes these but they're not widely used (Toyota uses them as the rear O2).

There is obviously a lot more to it, especially the widerange sensor, but it can quickly devolve into a lot of small details that start to depend a lot on the particular ASIC used, etc.

As an aside, this is also how an NOx sensor works - there's a third chamber where NOx enters that catalyzes the NOx and NOx detection is done via that signal. It's very, very small.

OBD

Most sensors set either a heater code - usually open circuit due to broken wire - or sensor stuck lean. The latter is detected a couple different ways, the first of which is that the vehicle is calibrated with a threshhold voltage above or below which it will set a code. So if your sensor gets an open wire, voltage drops below that threshhold and you set a stuck lean code or something to that effect. There are also intrusive tests that are performed during driving to check sensor function but it's rare for the sensor to fail in that way. It's almost always some sort of physical damage which means it's almost always heater open circuit or stuck lean (i.e. element open circuit).

Engine condition

Engine condition generally does not affect O2 sensor. That said, the sensors do have temperature and (for widerange) pressure dependencies but those are dealt with during vehicle calibration (adjust heater control for temperature and pressure dependency can depend on the exhaust layout - possibly it's just never large enough to matter).

OEMs are required to monitor cylinder imbalance which can be difficult at high RPMs with many cylinders but typically they have split exhaust so it's not that bad. If your sensor response is too slow, you will have problems but that's not an issue anymore.

Sensor choice/calibration

There's a few things that go into it, but basically, they are what they are and OEMs take what they get and they calibrate around it. Especially for switching sensors, they can ask for, and sometimes receive, slight variations on the elements for their particular calibration strategies but they are very minor differences (to anyone that's not an engineer that's directly involved with calibration).

When it comes to widerange sensors, it can be a little more difficult because ASIC hardware in the ECU is necessary and not every ASIC is compatible with every widerange O2 sensor (basically delineated by manufacturers). Very similar to switching sensors, OEMs calibrate the vehicles to what the expected sensor behavior is. Because of the involvement of the ASIC, widerange sensor elements are always the same (within a product generation for the most part) because if you change the element then the ASIC may no longer be appropriate. A lot of work goes into making sure sensors are compatible with ASICs because if not, and sometimes very subtly so, it can lead to big problems and lots of finger pointing and headaches and early morning meetings (it can get extremely specific and extremely detailed. I'd love to share because it's all very interesting but I probably definitely shouldn't.)



(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

What's the preferred product for daily cleaning of the piano/gloss black plastic exterior crap they're slathering all over everything these days? Glass cleaner? Show and shine? Soap and water? You google it and everything is about restoring it once it's already hosed up, not just daily maintenance.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I think leasing EVs right now is a pretty good idea for that reason, depending on residual. I probably would have leased my Mach-e except Ford doesn’t have their Ford Options lease thing in Nevada for legal reasons.

Three years from now there’s going to be a lot more readily available Model Y alternatives out there so it’s probably not going to be great for resale values. Leasing caps your max loss due to depreciation.

But I think it’s Porsche has super low residual values for the Taycan so it can still be a terrible idea to lease depending on the actual numbers.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Powershift posted:



?

Just need wheels!

I own this exact sprinkler.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Once the EV Hummer is out if you're in anything smaller than a Ford Explorer you're basically saying you don't care if you live or die.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Ok Comboomer posted:

There’s also wrapping if you want the car to look brand new for <$1k, <<$1k if you go with a boring color

How many cars have you had wrapped?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Vacuum your car

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

WaffleZombie posted:

I searched through the thread a bit and saw a little bit of selling advice, but I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction to where to start.

My dad recently passed away, and he left behind a 2016 BMW 750i xdrive with about 36k miles. My mom thinks he paid about $100k for it, and then even went to Germany to pick it up. I need to get more information on the trim package, but where do we start? KBB seems to suggest a $45k asking price, but how much could the trim/color affect that? Should we even bother talking to a dealership/Carmax/Carvana or just go the private sale route? And if a private sale, where would you recommend we list it?

driveway.com

I got more from them for my car than they're selling privately for on carsandbids

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

I had good luck with driveway.com. Things moved a little slow but they came through in the end, once you get an offer and accept it they will come through but it might take a few weeks.

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bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Ok Comboomer posted:

it’s true. that’s why the best Fords of the last 15 years were all created by their Belgians

You're my Belgian.

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