AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

totalnewbie posted:

Remember that an upgraded-from-OEM part is sometimes (often?) just the OEM part with different packaging and price.

Now that I thought about this I was thinking the of big things...so I'll retract my statement a tad.

Imagine one of the big boys screws up an item (such as a window regulator or a slider) so many times that another company rolls in to save the day with a cheaper fix.

The name of that company is Dorman.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2019 22:51

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# ¿ May 14, 2024 17:03

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Queen Combat posted:

Friends don't let friends buy used ~~hard drives~~ ignition components.

Well I don't know, used Lucas electrical products have served me well in my non-functional vehical.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2019 23:09

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

IOwnCalculus posted:

Sometimes.

Sometimes the Dorman part has the exact same flaw, in the exact same way, as the OEM part.

I can change WJ window regulators in my loving sleep now.

Yeah, was sort of implying the OEM design is screwed up so bad why not go with a cheaper alternative.

As for window regulators, I feel your pain. I often wonder at the marvel of engineering (or the sadistic rear end in a top hat) that designs the opening for these. Ford cracked me up because they use rivets to hold them on. One of those "I would love to see how fast and easy they do this on the production line."

# ¿ Feb 15, 2019 13:39

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

I'm amazed they were able to source a spindle the next day.

# ¿ Feb 20, 2019 16:18

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

C-clamp, no slathering crap on the back of the pads if you spring for at least the "not flying off a cliff special" pads from Dollar General.

I haven't ran into the anti-squeal orange crap in years.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2019 23:50

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Ugh, the cube....

Rent the pucks/spreader for free if you need to do rears.

# ¿ Feb 23, 2019 05:43

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

For those not familiar with the cube...it is well, a cube. Has different sized nubs on each side that tries to fit various brake pistons and a 3/8" extension fits into each side.

So basically you pick the right side of the cube and apply Herculean force while trying to keep the cube in place to rotate and push the piston back.

Hence, gently caress the cube.

# ¿ Feb 23, 2019 05:59

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

zaepg posted:

Hi,

Beginner question here. Trying to improve my manual driving skills. One week in. Keeping RPMs matched. Generally improving on my ability to not lurch foward when I go from Neutral/Brake to First. Its overall a very positive experience.

I do have a few questions that my car hasn't given me answers to yet. Firstly, what is the standard practice when it comes to going from Nuetral, to First, to Second to Third...ect. Should I be going in order? And vice versa. When I come to a stop on say third, I find going from a third to neutral then brake to be easiest.

When it comes to skipping gears. How is it generally approched?

Skip gears anytime you want, but depends on the situation. Automatics skip gears all the time. Funny thing is GM (maybe they don't anymore) puts servos in the shifter to force a 1-3 shift all for the goal of fuel economy when not in WOT mode. And of course there are delete kits for that sort of horseshit. And the likes of Mazda today have servos which makes taking off from a stop a lot easier, along with incline braking.

Don't rest your foot on the clutch pedal. It might not sound like much, but there is quite a bit of leverage applied and hits that pilot bearing.

It's a great skill to learn and it really is like riding a bicycle. Once you got it you won't forget. You'll be able to hop into just about anything and within a couple hundred feet you know what to do.

Just listen to your car, it will tell you when you gently caress up. But be forewarned, be careful on downshifting. Engines have rev limiters but they can't overcome when you hit a lower gear than you intended.

In short, you are on the right track. Cheers.

# ¿ Feb 23, 2019 21:31

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Krakkles posted:

That's an enormous amount of money for a hub and bearing, unless I'm missing something (exotic procedure to do it, special model of car, foreign currency?). Rockauto lists a hub & bearing for a 2005 civic in the $10-50 range, and 9 hours of labor at $80/hour seems like a lot.

Even accounting for inflation because it's paying someone else to do it, that's ... steep.

In short, find a new shop.

# ¿ Feb 26, 2019 00:58

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Cage posted:

Do they still have 2 spark plugs per cylinder?

What muscle cars had dual plugs?

# ¿ Feb 27, 2019 02:55

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

I'll be damned and feel stupid, never realized the modern day 'hemi' was twin spark.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2019 15:13

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Every 30k? What are they running...Champion plugs?

# ¿ Feb 27, 2019 19:48

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

wth, those temps are nothing.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2019 20:57

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

So the original exploded, then safelite did the repair for the 2nd?

# ¿ Feb 27, 2019 21:34

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

TooLShack posted:

So I sold a car a couple years back, it was a barely running mazda6. Guy came to my house and paid me a grand. I signed over the title to him and never thought of it again. Today I get a call from some guy in NC(I'm in FL) saying that he bought the car from the guy I sold it to and the dude never moved the title to his name in FL. He states that NC requires that a title change be notarized and wants me to send his notary a copy of my driver license, new owner has the copy of the title with my signature on it. This sounds like a scam to me and didn't send the guy anything. The guy says NC won't register the car for him and he has a car he can't drive now. I don't want to leave the guy in a pickle but same time it sounds shady as gently caress.

Any guidance would be cool, cause I don't really know what to do.

How did he get your info?

# ¿ Feb 28, 2019 03:15

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

canyoneer posted:

Should I also replace the rear brake pads/rotors at the same time?

Short answer on brakes: When they start to grind or the little light goes on listen to the corner and replace pads and rotors on the respective front/back half of the vehicle.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 20:19

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

And just to add, you have to be a little careful when ordering brakes from Rock Auto. They list specifications and you really have to pay attention with the sizes they present you with. Amazing what a 320mm rotor for an ammo plated limo versus a 310mm rotor will do when mounting brakes. That order hosed me for few days. :v:

# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 20:27

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

canyoneer posted:

Well thanks for that thought now I want an armor plated minivan.

You'd be drat surprised.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 20:38

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

wolrah posted:

CARID.com did this to me, I ordered a four wheel kit for my Fiesta ST and while they got all the rotors right they included the pads for the base Fiesta which are smaller. They fit well enough that I didn't notice anything was wrong when installing them but they were loose enough that they got out of alignment in the caliper and ended up doing some damage to the rotors before I figured out what was going on.

The stupidest part is that the base Fiesta has drum rear brakes, so there's no reason for them to ever have a four wheel disc kit with these pads.

Yeah, I hear you. I picked up a pair rotors (NAPA branded if you believe it) from Rock Auto, tossed them on and I'm screwing with the rear caliper. Welp, they were wrong. Should have known the $15.99 specials were a closeout for a Maybach.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 21:32

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

sleepy gary posted:

Hey guys, I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue (GM 3800 engine, non-supercharged, automatic transmission, front-wheel drive) with 142k miles. I'm hearing a strange sort-of growling/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, usually around 25-35 miles per hour while accelerating. If I let off the gas or hit it harder, the noise will stop. It also comes back sometimes while lazily accelerating from say 45 to 60. I don't think it's the bearing due to how it comes and goes in specific circumstances. I don't think it is related to the steering angle. I'm not having any drive issues with it that I can tell, but if it's not my imagination, I do feel sometimes like the car is slipping, like if you have a lovely clutch in a manual transmission. That's usually at low speed under 30ish mph.

Any ideas of what that is or how to narrow it down further would be appreciated.

First thing I would check for is the brake pad condition. Bad/shot pads combined with a sticky caliper can make a poo poo-ton of weird noises. I would start there.

As for the slipping, the 4T60 isn't exactly the stoutest. Usually the time they poo poo the bed the reason is the TCC solenoid. But when that happens you get a helluva hard shift from 3-4. Slippage problems could be something not happy in the engine bay. But like I said start with the brakes.

Disclaimer: I owned a 97 Ultra so sorta know what I'm talking about.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2019 22:04

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Miss the days where the Nakamichi/Alpine deck was the gold standard.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2019 17:58

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

The Vette.

You only live once.

# ¿ Mar 8, 2019 21:05

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

A bad diode will drain it within minutes.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2019 00:27

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Just borrow the disc pucks/spreader from autozone/advance auto.

If rear rotors have a drum brake parking mechanism inside the rotor hat no need to rotate the caliper piston.

Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Mar 21, 2019

# ¿ Mar 21, 2019 01:34

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

If the alternator is out seems like you wouldn't need to worry about the bracket? :dunno:

# ¿ Mar 22, 2019 02:37

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Son of Sam-I-Am posted:

Thanks, that thread is locked but I'll try DIY.

Push, rider, self-propelled, etc?

# ¿ Mar 22, 2019 04:12

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Probably the battery based on you saying "when cold out".

Second would be the clutch pedal sensor.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2019 15:49

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Unmature posted:

Very specific stupid question:

In July 2017 I got a speeding ticket in New Jersey, the very week I was selling my car and moving to California.

I just bought another car in California and the ticket is still on my record and is driving my insurance up. Is it possible to still take one of those driving courses to knock it off? Can I do it while I'm in California? My insurance lady with AAA wasn't any help about this and just said she "wasn't sure".

You are dealing with NJ. Chances are they will be more than happy than to accept your funds. But cripes, should have dealt with it sooner.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2019 20:04

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Leave the cap off with engine running for a while. Squeeze/not squeeze and repeat with the top rad hose. Should get it going.

# ¿ Mar 23, 2019 03:39

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Should be fine as long you think you clearence to swing to wrench. Some of the diagrams I pulled up looked tight.

# ¿ Mar 25, 2019 23:56

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Heh, I'm pretty sure my '90 Escort had the 55 marked.

# ¿ Mar 26, 2019 14:33

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

jimmychoo posted:

not the same station i think i just started sucking at pumping gas somehow

Guess it is time for you to move to Oregon or NJ.

# ¿ Mar 28, 2019 18:09

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Wally Joyner posted:

You called it pretty accurately on this, STR:

The fella's insurance had an adjuster come out and yesterday we received a message saying that they deemed the car a total loss. I havent yet touched base with the adjuster but I see that the car is likely valued around $2000-$3500 according to KBB & NADA estimates. Since I've put roughly $850 dollars worth of parts (plus my own labor) into it, including a new steering rack; front suspension refresh; timing belt and rebuilt fueling system, I'm not too keen on letting it go over such a minor cosmetic issue.

I know this car pretty thoroughly and I'm confident that buying it back is the best thing for our family's situation currently (as much as I really enjoy car-shopping), however I'm not sure how much negotiation is possible from my end if the adjuster's value is below my expectations.

Is there anything I can do or keep in mind at this point in the process to ensure a positive outcome for us?

I was in the sorta the same boat. Had a Mazda 626 where I redid most of the front suspension. Shocks, control arms, etc. Of course a week later a friend of my wife (small world) collided into it making a slight a cosmetic wound across the side of the car.

Anyways totalled, but after a call to State Farm saying "buy back" they did the difference and no salvage title because the title never traded hands. YMMV of course given whatever your state is. They probably look at is welp, now we have a car we have to dispose of why not let some sucker insurance owner of the car take it off our hands for a pittance.

# ¿ Mar 29, 2019 17:14

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Krakkles posted:

Sounds like the best thing I can do is report it, and hope that the PD cares, and gets lucky?

If I call my insurance company, but they are able to subrogate (that's a lot of ifs, I know), does that still affect my rates? (I.e., if the PD can identify, does it matter if I call their insurance company or mine?)

How bad was the damage?

# ¿ Mar 31, 2019 20:58

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Weaponized Autism posted:

How can I improve average MPG on my 2019 Honda Insight LX? I feel like I should be getting 50+, but I'm only averaging around 40, and I mostly just drive in Econ mode. Looks like from here the car averages around 46: http://www.fuelly.com/car/honda/insight. I read somewhere colder weather can have an impact, so should I expect a significant difference as spring rolls in?

There will be a difference, not sure if that dramatic though. What are your tire pressures?

Plus who knows where you live in regards to winter blends with gasoline.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2019 15:13

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Buy a new passport instead

Yes, flee the country and buy a Lada.

# ¿ Apr 3, 2019 21:40

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Motronic posted:

Is it a blue car or a red car?

Not that matrix poo poo.

# ¿ Apr 4, 2019 17:18

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

STR posted:

When the hell did the small 1 lb refrigerant cans go to the self-sealing type?

That was highly annoying when I bought a can of refrigerant last night, and discovered I'd have to buy an adapter to use my normal can tap. I mean, it's only another $3, but still annoying when you haven't bought a can in a bit, and just another thing to leak/break. Just glad I noticed before I left the store.

Also at the price difference between Autozone and Walmart. Autozone: $16.99 for a single can. Walmart: <$5. It's the same thing inside the can.

What the heck is this now with an adapter?

Always get a chuckle out of prices of Walmart stuff vs Autozone, et al. with just basic car supplies.

# ¿ Apr 5, 2019 15:45

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

Fender Anarchist posted:

I had to google it, apparently new cans come with a valve to let the gas out, like a glorified schrader valve, instead of the ol pierce-and-dump method. so of course it requires a different connector to hook it up to a gauge set, need a thing to depress the plunger.

Is this some CA thing?

# ¿ Apr 5, 2019 19:03

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# ¿ May 14, 2024 17:03

Colostomy Bag: Jan 11, 2016; C-Bangin' it

gnrk posted:

I'm getting ready to replace my brakes. I haven't really done any work on my car before. I have a Hayes guide and plan to rent a few tools from AutoZone, but am happy to start building out my collection of tools. What are a few tools I'd be better off investing some money in? In other words, what tools in the AutoZone "brake change" set are bound to be lovely? I'm moving soon and don't want to go nuts buying things.

edit: I also plan on doing the rotors.

Need more details on the vehicle in question.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2019 15:58

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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