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Elmnt80 posted:Also, the iridium plugs that thing takes can probably be had for ~6 bucks through autolite or a regular iridium NGK plug. Iridium also supposedly has a hotter spark, but it should be gapped to provide the same heat as the old platinum plugs. So really, you're just buying the ability to put that next spark plug change off even longer. Don't buy Autolite. Honeywell hasn't made a decent spark plug in years. Also, while the spark of a plug can have different energy levels, that's largely determined by the coils, not the plug. What it has is better ignitability (see above), which is probably what people mean when they say "hotter spark" or whatever. Iridium generally has better ignitability than platinum, because it's smaller diameter than platinum center electrodes owing to its better durability. For modern combustion chambers that are designed for turbocharged engines, you need the better ignitability because they idle like poo poo without it, and you'll need the gap smaller at high loads or you'll misfire because the demand voltage is too high with a bigger gap. Better ignitability also lets you run leaner and get better gas mileage (but obviously, your car has to be calibrated to take advantage of it). spankmeister posted:Idk man, you tell me. These go for that kind of money : That's probably the nickel (+ trivalent chromate) plating. What plug does your car take? Maybe I can find a nickel plated plug for less. Also, ngk.com is a distributor and not affiliated with NGK Spark Plugs the manufacturer, also maker of NTK sensors (not to be confused with NGK Insulators, a different company, who makes sensors under the NGK branding). Oh, oops, that's ngk.de. Looks like the actual NGK Spark Plugs company  They made this a few years ago, it's pretty neat: http://www.ngk-elearning.com/Their website is so much better than the USA branch. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jan 14, 2016 |
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Jan 14, 2016 04:45
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some texas redneck posted:I seem to remember you mentioning that NGK makes a lot of AC Delco's plugs too, right? Yes, the supplier for most of AC Delco's plugs is NGK and Denso for the V8 engines. Some of the new smaller engines is using someone else, but I don't think they'll be doing that again. spog posted:Similar question from me: I have an '06 Saab that has an aftermarket LPG conversion and it is hard to find definitive answers about anything. Durability, no, not really. The major difference is possibility of corrosion of the metal shell and it getting stuck in the head. It's a problem with some LPG engines, some CNG engines, and all engines that ever run E100 (basically Brazil). I would say that, generally for LPG, you don't need to change to a nickel (+ trivalent chromate) plated plug unless you run into problems getting the plug out. More than the normal problems, that is. And don't put neverseze on your plugs (and I know we've had this discussion before and some people think it's fine and yes, it won't make your car go boom, but it's like running your tires under or over inflated - not recommended).
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Jan 14, 2016 14:40
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You're right - if the spark plug is black, it's not plated and you should use antiseize. But I'm pretty sure no one has made a non-plated spark plug (for automotive) in decades, unless you're in some third world country.
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Jan 14, 2016 15:49
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Godholio posted:The AC Delcos I bought for my SBC last year had black threads. So did the plugs I removed. Maybe they're no longer the typical OE, but there's a ton of poo poo on the roads using them. What was the part number?
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Jan 15, 2016 05:51
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Raluek posted:Rockauto lists the R43S for a '65 Corvette with the 327. Black, sure enough. Cripes. I can't believe anyone's still making OEM plug for a 50 year old car. The usual term is 15 years after EOP. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 14:53 on Jan 15, 2016 |
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Jan 15, 2016 14:49
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Godholio posted:The same basic engine is still in production. Well, kind of, I guess. I still find it a bit unbelievable that they'd be using non-plated spark plugs, though. /shrug. Buy plated plugs, make your life easier.
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Jan 15, 2016 20:29
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Godholio posted:It does seem strange about the plugs...I'd never even heard of this difference, so I don't even know if there's a plated version available. I'll dig into it next time I'm due, though. Yeah, I knew GM was still making the 4.3L V6 based on the Gen 1 small block. Funny story, I was in the Romulus plant and saw them making engines with a distributor and expressed my surprise to the SQE. He just laughed an do old me they'd been making the engine forever. Anyway that engine uses NGK ITR4A15 and that was the oldest engine I know. But yeah, there is definitely a plated version (NGK BR6...S? I looked this morning but forgot by now... ) so you can spare yourself the trouble, there. Also, I did ask a guy who works in the aftermarket department and he thinks it's probably autolite that makes the black ones, still. Like I said, don't buy autolite... :P
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Jan 16, 2016 02:07
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Diesel engines are more efficient at converting fuel into energy, so in that sense, they are less polluting than gasoline engines in terms of CO2. On the other hand, they put out more of other pollutants like particulate matter (PM) and NOx. The former is mitigated by the diesel particulate filter (DPF) and systems like lean NOx trap (LNT) or selective catalytic reduction (SCR - this is what urea/ammonia is used in (AdBlue in VW terms)). Also, diesel engines are much better for torque, which is why it's used for large trucks, power generation (in addition to gaseous fuels, obviously), large marine engines, etc. If you tried to get the same performance out of an engine running gasoline, it would be much, much less efficient and thus end up polluting far more (CO2), because you can mitigate the other pollutants by using exhaust gas recirculation (EGR), DPF, LNT/SCR, etc. TBH I don't know what they use on those large engines like for marine applications, but presumably they have some sort of DPF/LNT/SCR system.
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Jan 20, 2016 16:44
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ShittyPostmakerPro posted:No lol straight pipes. SCA Enthusiast posted:I don't believe marine engines are restricted in the same way as road going engines, and since they operate under more constant loads they don't behave in quite the same way either. I thought I read not too long ago somewhere that in international shipping lanes the presence of diesel soot actually has a localized atmospheric cooling effect but I'm having trouble finding it now. I'd have thought there'd at least be some sort of system for NOx emissions. :/ SCA Enthusiast posted:I wouldn't be surprised if they aren't the only ones doing it. Renault and Opel (GM) have been in the news recently for some suspicious activity w/r/t diesel emissions.
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Jan 20, 2016 17:13
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Uthor posted:I've done a little bit of work related to off-road machinery. Usually there will be two models: and "US" version and an "ROW" (rest of the world) version. The US version gets an emissions package as large as the engine itself. The ROW version gets a muffler. Oh, well, that makes a lot of sense. I imagine there's a lot more "ROW" ships than "US" ships, given how arbitrarily it seems those large ships get registered (at least to an outsider).
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Jan 20, 2016 17:27
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Could be worse! At least a key-on/off cycle is pretty painless.
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Jan 25, 2016 23:34
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Maybe the entire thing is a giant R-type thermocouple.
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Feb 9, 2016 20:43
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Does it smell sweet (coolant)?
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Mar 2, 2016 23:23
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Well, given that it's an I4 engine, I imagine the upstream sensor is pretty easy to spot just by popping the hood. And from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPZkXLQFeJs it looks like it is. So, I would just pop the hood and find the part number on what you've already got and go with that. (Probably the California one.)
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Mar 19, 2016 22:54
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Transmissions are boxes made of magic.
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Apr 6, 2016 15:59
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scuz posted:Yeah, spark plug threads aren't supposed to have oil on 'em I don't think. It happens all the time, though usually the oil tends to stay on the first few threads on the firing end. It's fine, though.
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Apr 15, 2016 17:55
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some texas redneck posted:A lot of the info you're looking for would be in a factory service manual - the FSM will often explain what signals each sensor sends, how to diagnose each sensor, etc. Kastein would be the most knowledgeable about this though. Seconding this a lot. OBD2 implementation will vary from year-to-year as OEMs make changes in OBD detection (to eliminate false positives/catch missed failures), will vary from ECU-to-ECU due to different capabilities, design, and of course because parts themselves change, which may not be obvious to people who aren't familiar. For example, GM just implemented wide-range O2 sensors on some vehicles. So if you got a new Malibu with the 2.0L turbo but it was the last body style (limited edition or something) then it has a switching sensor upstream, whereas if you got a new Malibu with the 2.0L but it's the new body style then it has a wide-range sensor upstream. Obviously, OBDII diagnostics will be completely different between the two sensors. But then if you get a 16MY CT6 with the 3.0L Turbo, you'll see that it also has the same wide-range sensor upstream. However, it uses a completely different ECU and ASIC from the 2.0L turbo and so the OBDII implementation is different. And I can tell you from experience, after having participated in checking the OBDII implementation on these two applications, that it's very difficult to interpret the OBDII codes/results that you get without a very good understanding of how the sensor itself operates. It's very specialized work and a giant can of worms. But I can only speak from the supplier/engineer's point of view. What you're looking for might be much more simple from a mechanic's point of view, because they might not be so concerned about diagnosing HOW a part has gone bad but just that it has (or that it was a false positive).
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May 11, 2016 16:22
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The Bunk posted:07 Accord V6 auto, 93k miles Start at the O2 sensor and work your way back towards the ECU. Could help, could not. Looks like the upstream sensor is easily accessible so if you don't find anything conspicuous, not much wasted effort (though it doesn't necessarily mean everything's fine, either). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSmV6Bud43Y
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May 27, 2016 21:42
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Shot in the dark, but anyone know what might go between a muffler and the tailpipe? Big boxy thing, maybe as big as the muffler itself. Gasoline NA engine, can't give more details, unfortunately.
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Jun 1, 2016 22:28
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tater_salad posted:A catalytic converter that use to be there but a crackhead stole it by cutting it off for a quick 50 for their next high. Yep, definitely not a TWC. Godholio posted:A resonator to make it sound not-lovely. This could be, but they were more rectangular/squarish. I thought resonators were generally cylindrical? And sorry for being so vague, I'm really paranoid to even describe it in more detail.
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Jun 2, 2016 01:22
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Haha no, but it's sort of work-related.
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Jun 2, 2016 01:26
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Godholio posted:
Comes with the territory of working in automotive. It's much better to be safe than sorry 
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Jun 2, 2016 03:26
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Really curious about the cloak and dagger though.
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tater_salad posted:8 year, 80,000 is a federal mandate, tell them to fix it under warranty, you'll be on the hook for the sensors though. O2 sensors should also be under the same emissions component warranty.
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Jun 9, 2016 14:47
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I don't care watt you say, the resistor had the wrong what.
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Jul 8, 2016 21:10
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I can check Monday what the OEM plug is. Overall for plugs, get NGK or Denso. Bosch if you have to but not champion and never ever anyone else. AC Delco, Motorcraft, etc are all rebranded OEM plugs. Iridium may not be necessary on such an old engine for performance and it may not last 100k miles for the durability to be worth it.
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Aug 21, 2016 06:14
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FYI basically nobody uses platinum anymore because iridium is cheaper and basically better (except for high temp oxidation but there are Ir alloys that are almost as good).
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Aug 21, 2016 14:22
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Raluek posted:Okay, then how can it be that "iridium is cheaper and basically better"? Because it is. I can't talk about costs and such but suffice it to say that there is a huge disconnect between COST and PRICE. Also, you can't necessarily consider them a 1-to-1 comparison. For example, look at how big the center electrode of a platinum plug is compared to a similar iridium plug. Is it the same? But in the end, the PRICE that something is sold for is often very much disconnected from the COST of making that thing. Iridium plugs are cheaper than platinum plugs but that's for the manufacturer and the OEM, not necessarily the end user. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 04:12
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Raluek posted:They're both 0.6mm projected tip. That's all NGK says about them, anyway. Moral of the story is that price is sometimes a poor indication of cost. And also that there are many hidden drivers of cost. For example, you could make two different types of products, one with precious metal and one without. But let's say that doing so requires two different sets of equipment and you just happen to have tons of equipment to make the precious metal type but not a lot of the one without precious metal, and the cost to get the EQUIPMENT for the non-precious-metal type is much higher. So then your non-precious-metal type seems like it should be cheaper but it ends up being more expensive. But most importantly, in the aftermarket world, prices are basically set completely randomly.
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Aug 22, 2016 13:53
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Find a gravel truck and follow closely. you may incur a net loss from having to get your car re-painted
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Sep 9, 2016 21:58
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scuz posted:OK, really dumb question here: my Golf's 2.0 liter 4-cylinder naturally-aspirated motor makes 114hp, and Honda's F20C 2.0 liter 4-cylinder naturally-aspirated engine makes 237hp. How are they able to make so much more? I realize that one is geared towards common commuting and the other is a full-on sports car, but I still would love to know how that whole thing is done. For fun comparison: The original LT1 engine in the 1972 Corvette was rated at 255 bhp. It had a displacement of 5.7 liters. That's another 3.7 liters for an 18 hp improvement from the modern Honda engine. Nevermind that it has more torque The current LT1 makes 455 bhp (and a hell of a lot more torque) and has 6.2L displacement. Engine technology has gotten a lot better over the years.
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Sep 16, 2016 21:20
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Geirskogul posted:What's this about spark plug non-foulers and how they can fix 05 Subaru o2 sensor problems? Can you be more specific or clarify your question? I mean, if your plugs are fouling then you'll have misfires, which is obviously going to mess things up downstream if it goes on too long. But you should have a check engine light if you have consistent misfires. Subaru, though, so have fun changing the plugs.
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Sep 22, 2016 03:30
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Oh. This is what I get for being an engineer and not a mechanic. Or, apparently, more specifically a shady mechanic.
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Sep 22, 2016 04:04
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Bovril Delight posted:If anything it's actually the opposite. By doing an inspection at the house it's just a visual estimate only, so the damage cost will be lower than a shop where you can see everything once the car is torn down. Insurance companies love folks who don't repair because it saves them time and money. My repair estimate: 3k-ish. My total repair bill: just over 6k. So yeah, the extra can be significant.
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Sep 22, 2016 19:29
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canyoneer posted:2008 Honda Fit Sport, Automatic. 120k miles or so. Well, if you've never done the plugs then it's about time to change them anyway.
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Sep 30, 2016 21:02
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Look at the pigtail routing before you remove the sensor. If it's not touching anything, route the sensor the same way when you put on the new sensor. Denso is the OEM sensor so get that one. Put antiseize on the threads before you install. If you see damage on the pigtail that looks like abrasion, try routing the pigtail in a way where it doesn't touch anything.
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Oct 4, 2016 21:39
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Yeah it'll have antiseize on it. You can probably see it on the threads under the cap.
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Oct 4, 2016 23:39
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Well, Bosch only makes planar sensors and Denso only makes thimble type sensors (NTK makes both). I don't know if ECUs are smart enough to figure out the difference but they're different. If the ECU can't differentiate then and/or have the right calibration for it then there could be problems, if only with the heater control. With O2 sensors, because there's so much calibration involved, I would stick with the OEM supplier.
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Oct 5, 2016 04:52
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tater_salad posted:yeah there's nothing super highly toxic in them AFAIK. But it does have silver(or gold) and platinum
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Oct 6, 2016 18:16
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ionn posted:It's water! And unless you have pure water in your radiator (which you shouldn't) and it leaks (which it if so would do way more of when driving than when parked), it can really only be AC condensation. If you were to leave a glass of water out overnight, would it in any way change appearance to seem non-fresh? A few months ago, I went to the garage to see a big giant puddle of liquid under my car. Right under where the right headlight was. Was I apparently leaking headlight fluid?! Turns out my neighbor had a pipe leak and it was water dripping onto my car from the garage ceiling
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Oct 7, 2016 15:05
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Tightening: Don't use anti-seize. What anti-seize ends up doing is that you'll turn it more to get the same torque but that means the metal shell gets elongated. It can damage the head, cause internal breakage of the insulator, or decrease the cooling capacity of the plug and cause PI. These are just possible failure modes. If you torque it down by degrees then you don't get the right tightening torque. Anti-seize is not used in OEM production and for good reason. Dielectric grease: just be careful it stays off the terminal and you'll be fine.
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Oct 13, 2016 19:17
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