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Out of curiosity, are you dudes with Vallejo primer problems putting it on plastics or metals? I use it, all my crap is metal, and I haven't had any issues with bonding.
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Jul 26, 2017 19:28
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w00tmonger posted:Have you washed your minis? Used to, but my primer and paint stuck whether I did or not, so I stopped. All I do is give them a quick blast of compressed air to knock dust off before they get sprayed and painted.
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Jul 26, 2017 23:04
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I've gotten used to airbrush handling for priming and basecoats, plus the coarse work for vehicles and terrain. Is it worth it to get a finer detail airbrush for finer detail work, or is it better to invest in masking products? Related, how much of a pain is maintenance of a Badger Krome or Renegade compared to the 105?
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Jul 31, 2017 23:18
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darnon posted:A super fine detail needle for the 105 is like $10-15 for what it's worth. Yeast posted:For what its worth, the value return on any needle under a .3 is pretty minimal unless you're also committing to some serious dollars. Thanks, guys. I was searching for ultra fine instead of super fine and didn't get squat but the higher-end airbrushes! Go me! What in particular differentiates a high-end airbrush from the rest? I get that the $20 specials are machined poorly and made of crap metal. Is it a function of ergonomics or just really, really precise manufacture, or something else altogether?
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Aug 1, 2017 15:26
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Am I cursed by exceptionally thin paint, or does it normally take a minimum dozen coats to get brushed-on white up to snuff?
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Sep 5, 2017 21:29
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Glossy white armor plating, like a stormtrooper  The good news is that I'm working up over a zenethial priming job, so at the very least the important parts are going to be a nice rich tone, but everything is scratchy-looking, almost like the pigment's breaking when it goes on the model, even if it looks solid on my palette.
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Sep 5, 2017 21:43
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Pin it. I recall the Hi-mock head having enough space in it that you could run one continuous wire from horn to horn, to really hold 'em in place. RE: painting white, I did some loving around and it turns out there's either something about this combination of substances or I'm going too heavy on thinning, but thinning with just water instead of water and medium got me back to useful coverage.
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Sep 7, 2017 00:14
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For making your own flow aid, will any kind of dish soap do?
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Sep 23, 2017 17:27
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Ilor posted:Whatever you charge, it probably won't cover your time. And if it does, some grognard will say, "WTF, I'm not paying that much!" It's this. If you want to make a spirited attempt at it, though, figure out your rate as a function of hourly wages. Ideally, you'll be able to say "I charge n-money per hour" and your client will agree, trusting you to create a reasonable invoice upon completion, since some jobs are quick and some take a million years. That rarely happens, though, so ballpark your project timeline first and then ask for the equivalent as if it were an hourly wage - charge ten dollars an hour, guess it'll take about ten hours, ask for a block upfront of $100, etc. Your other option is to negotiate a general price and end up working for substantially less than minimum wage. I would suggest you ask for at least half the money up front and half on completion, if you're doing things in person. If you can set up an invoice through Paypal or your preferred online retail helper, do so. If you're doing anything that involves somebody mailing you stuff to paint, do not accept any handshake deals, only deal in invoicing, and demand receipts and tracking for every leg the minis travel. If you're showing your client in-process stuff or allowing revisions, put a cap on how many changes they can make. A good rule of thumb would be to allow one big revision and three little revisions, so that your client feels like they're getting what they want, but they're also not making you redo your entire project from scratch multiple times. For instance, if they decide they want their tanks to be green instead of blue, and you've already painted them, that's their big change. They decide they want their sergeant's beard to be red instead of brown, that's a little change. If you're not allowing revisions at all and they're required to trust your judgement, get that in writing before you even start. Be prepared to get shortchanged or outright screwed. Good luck!
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Oct 15, 2017 18:50
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Hi-mocks are a treasure, and if you've never built one, do it. It's eight to ten bucks from Amazon, it goes together in minutes, and you don't feel the slightest bit bad mangling it or giving it a terrible paint job for kicks.
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Nov 1, 2017 23:03
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Is there any Scale75 reseller in the US that won't charge an arm and a leg? I'd quite like to try the stuff, but damned if I'm gonna pay more than GW prices for the privilege.
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Nov 12, 2017 22:37
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Booyah- posted:One more airbrush question before I bite the bullet: To follow what berzerkmonkey said, I made my own spray booth with a furnace filter, a cardboard box and an old desk fan. As long as you're sticking to water-based media, you're safe to paint at your kitchen table. You'll still want a decent respirator and some goggles or safety glasses for inevitable overspray, but you're not gonna poison your family if you're spraying indoors. NOTE CAREFULLY: this does not apply in the slightest if you're using oil-based paints, shellacs, or anything else with more active chemistry than acrylic paints. Don't mess with that stuff unless you know what you're doing, up to and including relevant safety precautions. Anyway, seconding that if you can't paint indoors, you may be throwing your money away on a tool you're going to hate in short order.
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Nov 14, 2017 00:14
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Yeah, VSP is pretty safe on the lungs. None of my bottles has a strong odor of any sort, and I'm pretty sensitive about that kind of thing. Are you adding any kind of thinners or other agents to the stuff? I've noticed when I prime my dudes, the airbrush thinner will give the primed pieces a sort of sweet smell. It's certainly not what I'd describe as dangerous fumes, though.
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Nov 14, 2017 01:31
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Hixson posted:When I put coolant In my radiator it gives the fluid a sweet taste. Not exactly what I'd call dangerous poison though I mean, I'm assuming nobody in this discussion is doing rips right off the business end of their airbrush or dropping thinner straight into their eyes. Then again, TCC exists... Booyah- posted:No, I'd just been brushing it on out of the bottle. I guess it doesn't smell fumy but it does have a noticeable odor to it that sticks around a little while as it dries, and other acrylics don't seem to have that. For what it's worth, there's no harm in indulging in some hypochondria now and then. The real nasty stuff in most paints are solvents, which will actively gently caress up your lungs and other tissues if they're introduced to each other. Acrylics get around this by being water-based. This doesn't mean you should sit there and breathe deep in your overspray cloud, however. Particulates can still do nasty things to your lungs, especially as they accumulate over time. If you want to be as safe as you can realistically get while you're working with vapor clouds of paint, make sure your paint booth has some kind of negative pressure system on it - in my case, a fan to suck air toward the filter, rather than drift toward my face; always work with eye protection, even if it's just a simple pair of open-frame safety glasses; and if you can work up the scratch, buy a replaceable filter respirator mask. You can get 'em for twenty or thirty bucks at your local hardware store or off Amazon. The fabric dust masks are okay in a pinch, but they don't totally seal up against your skin. The CDC page about filter grades is here. For acrylic work, an N95 filter is a solid bet, but if you have the cash and sufficient paranoia, you can find P100 filters pretty easily.
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Nov 14, 2017 02:29
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I've got a bunch of the Vallejo textures at this point, and I just treat them like regular paints. They apply like normal and clean up with water and brush soap. They look nice with a little wash to bring out the texture, and they'll shrink a little bit when they dry, which takes about an hour and change. If you want a real muddy look instead of dry earth, you'll need to do a couple layers.
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Dec 1, 2017 03:00
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Anybody using the Badger primers notice you get a lot more matte finish with them, versus other airbrush or brush-on primers? I'm really liking them, but on the other hand, it means I have a shitload of primed minis to strip.
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Dec 15, 2017 19:11
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My guess would be really thinned-out fluorescing paints, or even inks. They're waving a little blacklight around the model to set the stuff off, but if you look where the light's shining, the paint is still pretty translucent. You could glaze them on thin enough to cast a faint color under the light, but to be pretty unobtrusive under regular lighting.
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Dec 29, 2017 19:57
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Cmon is way behind on a ton of people's orders, and it seems entirely random as to who's getting their stuff fulfilled at any given moment. If I want a new detail brush, am I better served getting the Krome or the Sotar? E: ^ Oh, hey, how 'bout that.
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Jan 4, 2018 19:40
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I'm 100% in need of a detail airbrush, so Sotar it is. Thanks, dudes.General Olloth posted:I JUST bought a 200-9 gravity feed like 3 days ago. I've come to really prefer the Badger primers over Vallejo, but I specifically switched for a more matte finish. You probably will find the Badger stuff easier to work with, although a drop of flow improver for every 15-20 drops of primer isn't a bad idea, if you've got it handy. For your base coats, you can go fairly heavy, since the primer shrinks as it dries to retain detail. I've had models I thought I really heavily over-painted turn out just fine. As long as your model isn't totally blurry with wet primer, you're probably okay. What specifically's giving you trouble with your priming?
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Jan 4, 2018 22:19
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Excellent tartan. I had to strip mine and restart after messing it up, myself.
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Jan 4, 2018 23:58
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General Olloth posted:Trouble getting a good spray pattern. Lots of big specs on top of the main spray. Stuff I threw in the stripper was fuzzy looking, more than being too much it looked like a bad texture. Was trying everything from no flow improver to maybe 20% at different psis and the pattern was always the same hosed up. Deep cleaned as well to make sure it wasn't due to residue. Off the top of my head from when I had problems with my primers - You absolutely have to shake the hell out of both the Vallejo and the Badger primers. If you're doing it by hand, you'll need to do it long enough that you actually get irritated at how long it's taking. Are you using a tanked compressor, or a straight feed model? The tankless box I borrowed from a friend pulsed like crazy, and I got some pretty bad spatter out of that. Is it happening instantly, or after you shoot a little bit of paint? I've had my primers clump up on my needle really quickly compared to my normal paints, and it seems to be a function of ambient conditions more than anything I can do with mixing additives. Are you shooting off your model first to de-crud your airbrush and then moving the spray on, or just blasting straight at the model off the bat? Sorry for the "have you tried turning it on and off" level questions - you seem like you've got a decent grasp on what you're doing. It may just be you've got a bad batch, and the Badger will treat you better by default. Here's hoping.
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Jan 5, 2018 01:29
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Anybody email Badger, get the initial response, and then never get the purchase instructions? I get they're backed up from a huge spike in demand, but I'm also impatient and brain-dead.
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Jan 8, 2018 16:34
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I picture a group of genial grandpas who hand-machine every component, and who need their grandchildren to constantly reinstall their copies of Windows 95.
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Jan 8, 2018 21:27
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How much damage is your Molotow coating taking? I've only put big swathes of it on a display model, but I put it on the edges of swords on things I travel with and it's been pretty durable with a little varnish.
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Jan 10, 2018 22:47
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Doing the "I actually did something!" cross-posting marathon. Lookin' sharp, man.
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Jan 25, 2018 23:06
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I tried to butter my toast the way I remove mold lines, and now all the fine details have been scraped off the bread, pls help Try applying a wash of melted butter and flow improver. That should bring out some of the details. Part of it may be your original piece. The Grains Workshop line has been even heavier on the baroque detailing as of late (yadda yadda seeds for the seed throne you know the drill), while your cheaper Reaper stuff made out of Wonderbread doesn't hold detail too well to begin with.
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Feb 1, 2018 03:47
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Anybody out there with a bottle of Vallejo Model Air black grey, #71.056, and if so, is your batch way more green-grey than black-grey?
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Feb 4, 2018 22:44
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I got my 105 to choke on some Vallejo white primer thinned with a bit of flow improver once. Hasn't happened before or since, all from the same bottle and same brush setup. Airbrushes, man.
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Feb 9, 2018 00:00
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Yeast posted:Stynelrez. Oh yeah, I switched over last year. Way nicer matte, way thinner. It was more meant to show that sometimes you just get an unreproduceable, nonsensical error because airbrushes run on voodoo and luck, rather than physics.
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Feb 9, 2018 04:39
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Dr. Gargunza posted:(* Apparently the pigments in several of the Vallejo Metal Color "brown" metals tend to get clumpy, according to some of this FLGS's other customers. This was a problem with their Metal Air colors for sure, but I've got a bottle of the Metal Color Copper and it's one of my all-time favorite metallic paints, nary a clump in sight. So I guess the moral here is, umm...don't listen to other people?) This is true to varying degrees for all the Metal Color paints. The pigment is pretty eager to separate out, and you'll get a pretty thick layer of sediment on the bottom of the bottle. I've had a bunch of the MC (which of course is not VMC, because why be simple) paints for a few months. The secret is to shake the living hell out of them before you use them, and everything goes back into solution pretty quick - check the bottom of the bottle while shaking and watch the paint particles fall off to see when to stop. I would very strongly suggest dropping an agitator of some sort into any Metal Color bottles.
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Feb 14, 2018 00:27
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Obviously the trick is to convince your friends that painting Aunt Polly's bunker and crater set is much more fun than stickball or hopscotch or what have you.
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Feb 28, 2018 23:41
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I've got one of those Bandai Star Wars models, and I'm really lazy. I want to hit it with a wash and call it a day, but it keeps beading up on the plastic instead of staying put. Can I get away with a clear coat, then a wash, then another clear coat, or am I going to have to prime and paint this thing?
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Mar 9, 2018 23:26
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Philthy posted:NBD Giraldez's second book is a little better about breaking down the steps, but that first one is definitely  presented entirely straight.
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Mar 29, 2018 22:18
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Guy Goodbody posted:What's funny is that while Bandai is rolling out that two layered plastic technique on the Fumina figure to reduce the need for painting, at the same time they've announced that the upcoming Leo kit is going to have a new kind of joint construction to make it easier to paint Holy poo poo, thank you for posting this because I'd have completely missed the Leo otherwise.
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Mar 30, 2018 18:28
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W&N brushes are really nice and will last forever if you take care of them. A decent golden taklon brush will cost you about seven bucks a pop and will last maybe a few months before it will inevitably, without question, bend or fray. You do you, but if you're gonna be spendy on any particular thing for painting, it should be the brush.
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Apr 19, 2018 20:08
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Deviant posted:I don't mind spending the money if they're good, but will just having a few round brushes really get me that far? I'm used to using the cheap wal-mart sets. Like others have said, yeah, pretty much. Don't get me wrong. Buying a fancy W&N brush isn't going to instantly improve your game. Still, I'd cheap out on paint before I cheaped out on my brush.
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Apr 19, 2018 23:05
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dexefiend posted:Never use the miniature version. It just has a smaller belly and holds less paint/watee. This cannot possibly be emphasized enough.
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Apr 19, 2018 23:37
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They'll frizz a bit when they dry out. Moisten it before you start painting to put a tip on it, and when you're done, get just a little brush soap on there to keep it conditioned while you're not using it.
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Apr 24, 2018 21:13
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Man these Metal n' Alchemy paints are absolutely loving gorgeous. Picked up the copper set and they're worth the cost and the hype. Haven't even put anything down except a layer of the Decayed Metal colour and it looks 10 times better than the GW tin bitz I used on the first killa kan. Can you put up a picture when you're about done, and can you say how they compare to the Vallejo Metal Colors?
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Apr 25, 2018 18:42
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Sultan Tarquin posted:Well I'm still an amateur and not a fantastic painter by any means and don't have any of the VMC to compare it to but I sat and painted a bit today. My crappy phone camera probably doesn't do them justice but they have great coverage and really fine mica really makes them pop. Thanks. That's a mighty fine coppery shade you have going there.
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Apr 25, 2018 20:00
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