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Hey all I'm thinking about getting back into painting space dollies, and have a somewhat weird question. I moved cities 9 months ago, and my old house mate was nice enough to let me leave all my hobby gear at his place where I more or less forgot about it. I'm flying back there in a few days, and will need to pack it all up and send it to myself. I was wondering if it'd be possible to box up some of it and put it on my return flight as checked luggage. Has anyone flown with paints (in this case the post 2012 GW) before? Is it doable, or are they all going to have pressure issues and blow up?
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Jun 2, 2015 04:38
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:11 |
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Faaark. I wonder if taping each pot shut with electrical tape would do it. And then I'll pack them in small zip locks I guess. Thanks duder.
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Jun 2, 2015 06:06
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SRM posted:I love their tutorials. I used all their Dark Angels ones on my DAs: So good. So so good. Checking out the blog now, looks super helpful.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:39
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PyroDwarf posted:Am I crazy thinking that the skin and rags on these guys looks un-finished? I still have to do the eyes and teeth and a few touch ups here and there. I agree. I think the issue might be that the model lacks contrast. You've got a lot of what appears to be washes over white, but no bold colour or contrast, so everything looks a bit bland. Maybe once their based it'll pull together, but personally, I'd run a colour / wash / highlight over the scraps of clothing to separate them from the skin.
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Jun 7, 2015 02:41
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I'm thinking about starting either a Tallarn or Steel Legion army. I've tried to do desert style fatigues in the past and been generally unhappy with the result, I'm wanting to create a look very similar to the below. Anyone have any tips or paint combinations to get it looking something similar to this? I use GW paints, if that helps. 
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Jun 10, 2015 05:52
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Spent the afternoon trying out paint schemes for my Steel Legion tanks Ended up going with the top option, and then weathering it up. Maybe a little too much.  
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Jan 16, 2016 11:52
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  Just wrapped up my first painted unit for the year. Also need to sort out a better way to photograph them, the light's too harsh, makes them look gloss varnished. Thinking putting up some thin cloth will help.
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Jan 25, 2016 23:44
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I'm not sure how well that'll translate to man barbies - Hot pink on black is difficult, painting it in 3D space is super hard. That said, I use GW's 'Ardcoat to gloss up visors and screens, does very well in a single pass.
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Jan 29, 2016 22:33
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Spent the weekend finishing up some Chimeras. 6 to go.      
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Feb 1, 2016 05:23
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Thanks! 8 or something to go.
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Feb 1, 2016 11:31
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Woah, these look great, but I thought those lightning bolts were supposed to be the fast-attack icons. You're half right actually! I think that was the idea originally to use the fast attack icon, and I thought it was upside down too, but all the GW released stuff is upside down: (and red?) So I did it they way they did it, even though it takes a bit to get used to.   
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Feb 3, 2016 07:49
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God damnit, now I'm having thoughts of tearing them off and doing the OG style somehow. Space Hams  Edit: I wonder how hard it would be to create this as a transfer: 
Yeast fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Feb 3, 2016 |
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Feb 3, 2016 08:01
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Finished up another squad of steel legion. Love Secret Weapon Miniatures razor wire. A+ stuff.  
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Feb 7, 2016 11:49
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 It's comical how heavy this thing is now. So much resin.
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Feb 9, 2016 05:09
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Uroboros posted:Is getting an airbrush a requirement at some point? Yes. Also, wet blending, and not dry brushing your edge highlights. Weathering pigments for your vehicles, and more stages of highlighting / shading. edit: the lenses on your land raider are A+ delicious.
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Feb 10, 2016 10:58
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Sounds overwhelming. Good luck. 
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Feb 10, 2016 20:06
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So drat good.
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Feb 13, 2016 09:23
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Finished my first Hellhound, and another 3 Chimeras over the weekend 
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Feb 21, 2016 11:54
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BULBASAUR posted:You make me want to paint my army differently. Thanks for the kind words TTerrible posted:This thing is awesome. Is that a ton of salt weathering or did you use chipping fluid stuff? no salt at this stage, after base coating one of the first steps is sponging on rhinox hide using a thing of foam, to get that blasted, battered look. The rest is a poo poo ton of weathering powders, typhus corrosion + ryza rust. Secret Weapon miniatures (the powders) pretty much changed the way I paint models.
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Feb 22, 2016 11:10
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crime fighting hog posted:I was messing around on the same tank today and tried taping off certain parts and toying with patterns. Even after glosscoating before putting on the tape, the tape still peeled some of the paint off with it, no matter how gentle I was. I find that really weird, I use Tamiya Painter's too. What are you using to prime over plastic?
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Feb 23, 2016 00:24
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JoshTheStampede posted:Yeah that is crazy, also it means you can't decide which way they are looking. Why not both ways?
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Feb 23, 2016 03:01
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Wet palette or bust.
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Feb 24, 2016 23:14
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BULBASAUR posted:I used a wet palette when I was starting out, but as I gained experience and started to batch paint I migrated over to a dry plastic one. For individual models or wet blending I would def still use it. I use it for batch painting, but mainly because  it's so hot here 6 months of the year paint dries on the palette before you can get through 1/3rd of it
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Feb 25, 2016 02:34
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SERPUS posted:I bought a pot of citadel Maccragge Blue and I'm really confused. This came out basically purple to my eyes. I'm trying to build to an Ultramarine Space Marine color, and this just seems really dark on top of a black primer. I feel like I should have started with their Altdorf Blue. That's ok, you're using it as a base coat, so if nothing else it's just creating a good starting point, and using the base pigment density to cover the black.
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Feb 25, 2016 09:43
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Frobbe posted:I've recently bought Winsor & Newton Series 7 Short size 1 and 2, they're pretty drat nice and aren't that expensive per brush. I will be buying a size 3 and size 0 sometime in the future though. the short means the hairs aren't so long, making it easier to control when painting miniatures and such. Very much depends on how many miniatures you're painting in a sitting, I find.  From left to right is the Raphael 8404, the Scharff 3000, Citadel Artificer, and the W&N Series 7 My personal favourite now is the Scharff, the hair bounce back is beautiful, its tip is lovely and because it can hold more paint I can get more mans done. It's modelled after the Raphael, before their QC went to hell. Edit: I should say, their size 0 is for me, the best paint brush I've ever used for painting, I've got 4 spares because I know one day, they'll disappear or change them somehow. Yeast fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Mar 6, 2016 |
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Mar 6, 2016 22:02
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To be fair, I spray anywhere up to 30c (85f)
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Mar 9, 2016 21:28
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Finished up my Steel Legion armies' Armageddon Ork Hunter unit;   
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Mar 10, 2016 11:24
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Thanks! Their Chimera's going to have a shooter counts as heavy stubber, and a bunch of small Ork touches as well - but that's this weekend's project! SRM posted:This is so my poo poo, I love these guys. The Ork glyphs on their backs are a great touch, and the use of old metal Catachans is a seriously pro maneuver. Yeah, the entire army is metal Steel Legion and if a unit has an old-er school metal equivalent its used - Storm Troopers, Ogryns etc  Fyrbrand posted:These are super pro and with a little snow on the bases would look even more legit. Going for Ash Wastes / Hive City limits - so a bit hot for snow, me thinks.
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Mar 10, 2016 22:26
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Genghis Cohen posted:I put a load of metal and plastic Eldar in to soak in brown dettol. How long do I have to leave it for before I go nuts with an old toothbrush? Sure are. I'm madly painting for the Independent Characters Hobby Progress Challenge - so far this is the completed stuff *minus the Ork Hunters  and then some close ups   
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Mar 13, 2016 21:32
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Frobbe posted:Those are rad. Might i interest you in the old steel legion commissar? He is sadly missing his gun arm, but you seem no stranger to converting stuff up I'm just waiting to see if an offer for one goes through or not, I'll PM you if it falls through, and thank you. Ilor posted:Yeast, do you want more old metal Steel Legion guys? Are you in the US? Unfortunately not, I'm in the land of death and high prices.
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Mar 14, 2016 01:59
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Wrapped up two more Chimeras, and an Enginseer. One of the Chimeras is for a unit of Armageddon Ork Hunters, so has a counts-as Heavy Stubber
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Mar 17, 2016 09:25
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I use brushes from Secret Weapon Miniatures, and either GW spray primer, or Testors Medium Grey spray undercoat. Both work well.
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Mar 20, 2016 09:04
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JoshTheStampede posted:Mini photo nerds, I just got a Nikon D200 body from a friend and want to use it for minis. What's a good lens to buy that isn't too expensive and good for that? nikon's 35mm 1.8 is great, and you can crop in for smaller work, or go the extreme and pickup a Macro lens, to get the fine details. Star Man posted:It's a rite of passage to buy the overpriced GW can once. I'm happy with the results, and it's part of the workflow for my tanks \_(ツ)_/¯
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Mar 20, 2016 21:03
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yeah, I might move to airbrush varnish. I've only had Dullcote gently caress up once and frost the side of a Chimera, but it was pretty heartbreaking. I've only heard good things about brush on.
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Mar 21, 2016 00:43
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Yeah, all metal army. And I also use it to seal pigments if I don't want the pigment fixer effect. Otherwise it'll literally rub off on contact.
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Mar 21, 2016 06:56
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Cross Post from the 40k thread. What I've been working on for the last 3 months.   
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Mar 21, 2016 09:00
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 Super ill over the last couple of days, but managed to get another HQ done.
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Apr 1, 2016 07:04
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using a medium may help you.
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Apr 4, 2016 00:45
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SRM posted:Even just using a slightly damp brush will help you. You can use a palette but I paint straight out of the pot and get good results with Citadel paints. Star Man, what kind of brushes are you using, and what exactly is the step by step of your technique? Your paints look like they're blistering off the models, and there's little hairs -everywhere- on the minis. The hairs look like they could also be a result of over-priming. Where the propellent and the paint start to build up and expand.
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Apr 4, 2016 09:53
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 16:11 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah don't use a black wash for painting white. this a thousand times. I use the technique Kris from miniwargaming does; 1. Prime White 2. Airbrush on Ulthuan Grey 3. Mix Drakenhof Nightshade, Agrax Earthshade and Lahmain Medium (1 Part Drak, 2 Parts Agrax, 1 parts Medium), also add some liquitex flow-aid to aid the viscosity. 4. Light dry brush whitescar 5. Highlight White Scar using edge highlighting, mix with Lahmain medium 
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Apr 4, 2016 23:20
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